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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #9526
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    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    My CK's come loose every 4th ride or so. The bearing preload adjustment doesn't stay in place. And they've eaten some bearing races (which they warrantied).

    They also weigh a substantial amount more than almost every other comparable hub. Which matters because it's unsprung weight.

    Given that I've had zero issue with 240's, which are substantially lighter and in the same ballpark for price, I don't see myself ever using CK's again.
    One of us is either unlucky or doing something wrong. How can the preload adjuster loosen up? It's a locking clamp made out of solid aluminum. Tighten it down and it's not moving. Every CK hub I've ever had (probably 5-6) has been 2-3 rides to break in and then set-and-forget.

    Then again, you can't get Shimano brakes to work for you either.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  2. #9527
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    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roxtar View Post
    One of us is either unlucky or doing something wrong. How can the preload adjuster loosen up? It's a locking clamp made out of solid aluminum. Tighten it down and it's not moving. Every CK hub I've ever had (probably 5-6) has been 2-3 rides to break in and then set-and-forget.

    Then again, you can't get Shimano brakes to work for you either.
    No idea. The clamping screw on the preload adjuster isn't loosening. But every few rides, the hub has noticeable side to side play, so presumably the preload adjuster is backing out.

    But even if that wasn't a problem, they're still heavy and expensive.

    To their credit though, I can at least depend on the CK's to loosen, whereas I can't depend on shimano brakes to stop.

    Edit to add: Chris King also stopped making 6 bolt hubs. They're centerlock only now. So yeah, I'm done with Chris King.

  3. #9528
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    Oct 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by ticketchecker View Post
    What's the verdict on the buttercups?
    I have a 2022 Zeb Ultimate with Luftkappe no butter cups. Feels great on small bumps and hand fatigue compared to before the Luftkappe.

    2023 Lyrik, It's a great fork but I can't really say the Butter Cups blow my mind. I could be wrong but I feel the damper and air spring is the biggest improvement here.
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  4. #9529
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    I had a Fox 36 before the E version of the ZEB and I wondered if small bump compliance was better on the Fox ?

    but I got no complaints really
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  5. #9530
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    Jan 2017
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    Kid bike question. Daughter is over 3, 3 1/2 in the summer and has been on a strider for 2 seasons now and think we can move to a pedal bike. Coaster brake or no?? I forsee her become frustrated with the concept of the coaster but wondering what other dads ( or cool uncles) have done here.


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  6. #9531
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sandbox View Post
    Kid bike question. Daughter is over 3, 3 1/2 in the summer and has been on a strider for 2 seasons now and think we can move to a pedal bike. Coaster brake or no?? I forsee her become frustrated with the concept of the coaster but wondering what other dads ( or cool uncles) have done here.
    Coster brake is a bad habit/trait to move on from when you advance to the next hand brake only bike.

  7. #9532
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    Dec 2006
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    bestcoast
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    yeah I couldn't bring myself to make the child suffer coaster brakes! we went right to hand/disc brakes

  8. #9533
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    Feb 2005
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    Vancouver BC
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    I remember my first bike, around age 5, was a BMX style with coaster brake. I liked doing skids with it... but another vote for hand brake. I went rim brakes on my son's first pedal bike, plenty of power for his ability level at 4.

  9. #9534
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    Oh yah I had a blast with coaster brakes as well but I didnít learn on a balance bike either. I do feel itís somewhat an antiquated idea now but I wasnít sure if I was missing something. First time Iíve ever done this whole parent thingÖ.


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  10. #9535
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    Aug 2002
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    Ask the experts

    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    No idea. The clamping screw on the preload adjuster isn't loosening. But every few rides, the hub has noticeable side to side play, so presumably the preload adjuster is backing out.

    But even if that wasn't a problem, they're still heavy and expensive.

    To their credit though, I can at least depend on the CK's to loosen, whereas I can't depend on shimano brakes to stop.

    Edit to add: Chris King also stopped making 6 bolt hubs. They're centerlock only now. So yeah, I'm done with Chris King.
    Multiple CK hubs all required multiple preload adjustment among my riding crew w way more frequency than it should. Most of us on singlespeeds during that time. Regardless totally done, also Cane Creek headsets split collar worked better than CK, as soon as that patent expired CK and most others rolled that in. I was off the bandwagon by the time they rolled around bottom brackets.

    DT had started upping their game w 36 and then 54poe ring drives that are just solid and work. 240, 340, and 350s just work.

    As for coaster will echo the comments, I did a coaster for my both kids when they were around 3/4 on 12Ē, but quickly put both on hand brakes on 16Ē wheels.


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  11. #9536
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    Apr 2009
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    1,663
    Quote Originally Posted by Sandbox View Post
    Kid bike question. Daughter is over 3, 3 1/2 in the summer and has been on a strider for 2 seasons now and think we can move to a pedal bike. Coaster brake or no?? I forsee her become frustrated with the concept of the coaster but wondering what other dads ( or cool uncles) have done here.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Both. Both kids learned on the same SE Bronco which has a coaster and a hand brake. I was able to coach both of them into a hand brake while they still had the confidence that the coaster brake gave them. In the end they both found out on their own that they preferred the hand brake.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

  12. #9537
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    Jun 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by Touring_Sedan View Post
    Both. Both kids learned on the same SE Bronco which has a coaster and a hand brake. I was able to coach both of them into a hand brake while they still had the confidence that the coaster brake gave them. In the end they both found out on their own that they preferred the hand brake.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    Coaster brakes are deadly on the pump track too. Took my kids bike out on it one time and proceeded to eat shit in short order.

  13. #9538
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong View Post
    Coaster brakes are deadly on the pump track too. Took my kids bike out on it one time and proceeded to eat shit in short order.
    For sure they, we ride a lot of pump track as well as there is a good one really close to the house and my daughter loves it. Hand brake it is! thanks fellas.

  14. #9539
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    LA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roxtar View Post
    Most of this will be Captain Obvious but:
    Does noise change at all when you adjust shift cable tension to each side?
    Did you set B tension with the Sram gage?
    How does the chainring look?
    Thanks, Cap'n! Cable tension is dialed. I don't have the SRAM gauge; is it really necessary? I just tensioned up the B-screw until there was no contact. The chainring, chain and Garbaruk 10t-48t all went on new at the same time, and were quiet (despite Garbaruk saying you need their RD cage if you go bigger than 46t). The new GX derailleur should show up in a couple days. Got my fingers crossed that'll solve it, but if not, at least I'll have a spare.
    BTW, it was low 60's down at Red Mesa on Sunday. We should get down there for a ride sometime!

  15. #9540
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Los Alamos, NM
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    Quote Originally Posted by NuMexJoe View Post
    Thanks, Cap'n! Cable tension is dialed. I don't have the SRAM gauge; is it really necessary? I just tensioned up the B-screw until there was no contact. The chainring, chain and Garbaruk 10t-48t all went on new at the same time, and were quiet (despite Garbaruk saying you need their RD cage if you go bigger than 46t). The new GX derailleur should show up in a couple days. Got my fingers crossed that'll solve it, but if not, at least I'll have a spare.
    BTW, it was low 60's down at Red Mesa on Sunday. We should get down there for a ride sometime!
    I'd get the gage. I have the 12 speed but not sure about 11. I'll check.
    11 and 12sp stuff is pretty picky with the b-tension. Perhaps try backing it out to see if it effects the noise. If so, start there.

    Rose and I did White Mesa last Friday.
    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...88#post6794388

    I'm thinking about a Red Mesa day either this Friday or next. I'll keep you up to date.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  16. #9541
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
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    20,079
    Quote Originally Posted by NuMexJoe View Post
    Thanks, Cap'n! Cable tension is dialed. I don't have the SRAM gauge; is it really necessary? I just tensioned up the B-screw until there was no contact. The chainring, chain and Garbaruk 10t-48t all went on new at the same time, and were quiet (despite Garbaruk saying you need their RD cage if you go bigger than 46t). The new GX derailleur should show up in a couple days. Got my fingers crossed that'll solve it, but if not, at least I'll have a spare.
    BTW, it was low 60's down at Red Mesa on Sunday. We should get down there for a ride sometime!
    Try increasing the B gap, see if it makes a difference in the noise. The SRAM plastic tool is pretty cheap, worth having as it makes setup fast. B gap should be set with rider weight on the bike, ie suspension sagged. Doesn't matter for hardtail obv.

    When you lubed the derailleur pulleys, what did you do?
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  17. #9542
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    LA
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Try increasing the B gap, see if it makes a difference in the noise. The SRAM plastic tool is pretty cheap, worth having as it makes setup fast. B gap should be set with rider weight on the bike, ie suspension sagged. Doesn't matter for hardtail obv.

    When you lubed the derailleur pulleys, what did you do?
    Thanks, EC. I'll look into the gauge if Roxtar doesn't have one. For the pulleys, I just removed the dust cover, swabbed everything out and cleaned it up with isopropanol, and then re-lubed with waterproof wheel bearing grease.

  18. #9543
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    Doubt it's in the pulleys, unless they're completely corn out (you'd see it).

    Try a little more B gap, even without the gap tool. See what happens.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  19. #9544
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
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    Proper B screw adjustment is pretty critical with 11 and 12 speed. Not like the old days when you could fudge it. Get the tool, it makes getting it right easy.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  20. #9545
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    shadow of HS butte
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    Found a good deal on Dominion A4s, so now switching to A4s.

    I'm currently kind of stumped on the caliper mounting bracket. These are going on a modern Spec Enduro, so I know I need the post style, but there is one for 160mm and 180mm post mount size. Which one do I need?

    Not done with the stupid questions... I've read that it's highly recommended you use their rotors, though is anyone running SRAM rotors? I'd love to keep my 220 up front but wouldn't have beef if I'd get better performance out of Hayes' 203.

  21. #9546
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    NorCal coast
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    Hope and NSB adapters fit the A4s well. If your Enduro has a 180mm post mount, you just need a 20 or 23mm one depending on 200 or 203.

    I run my sets of A4s with SRAM HS2 rotors and they work great. I've got a 220 up front on the Zeb on the Ebike and that needs a specific Hope adapter (200-220), but they make a 180PM->220 adapter too.

  22. #9547
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by east or bust View Post
    Not done with the stupid questions... I've read that it's highly recommended you use their rotors, though is anyone running SRAM rotors? I'd love to keep my 220 up front but wouldn't have beef if I'd get better performance out of Hayes' 203.
    I've run A4s on a couple bikes with Shimano rotors, Galfer rotors, and the Hayes rotors. Couldn't tell the difference. Once I've destroyed the stock of Shimano rotors I have on hand I'll switch to Galfer only, they seem to warp less, weigh less, and looks steezy AF.
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  23. #9548
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    Aug 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    Hope and NSB adapters fit the A4s well. If your Enduro has a 180mm post mount, you just need a 20 or 23mm one depending on 200 or 203.

    I run my sets of A4s with SRAM HS2 rotors and they work great. I've got a 220 up front on the Zeb on the Ebike and that needs a specific Hope adapter (200-220), but they make a 180PM->220 adapter too.
    It's confusing because on the Hayes website there are two measurements listed - a post mount and rotor size. What does the post mount measurement correspond to? When I looked it up my frame appears to have 180mm post mount front and rear, but how would one determine that without looking it up?

    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    I've run A4s on a couple bikes with Shimano rotors, Galfer rotors, and the Hayes rotors. Couldn't tell the difference. Once I've destroyed the stock of Shimano rotors I have on hand I'll switch to Galfer only, they seem to warp less, weigh less, and looks steezy AF.
    Those are bad ass.


    So let's say I order 2 180mm post mount 203mm rotor caliper brackets for the A4s, and plan to run a 223 Galfer up front and a 203 in the rear. Would I need to pick up some sort of 20mm shim for the front?

  24. #9549
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Galfer rotors are indeed pretty steezy and strong, but they do eat pads a bit faster than others, if that's a concern for you.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  25. #9550
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    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
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    Quote Originally Posted by climberevan View Post
    Galfer rotors are indeed pretty steezy and strong, but they do eat pads a bit faster than others, if that's a concern for you.
    Curious as to why that might be, material, or just the additional thickness? (Which would be odd?)
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

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