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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #4676
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    Ask the experts

    JONG question: if you were to take your chain off for a cleaning would you use a breaker tool or just remove the rear wheel?

  2. #4677
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    LOL, sorry.
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  3. #4678
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    Quote Originally Posted by east or bust View Post
    JONG question: if you were to take your chain off for a cleaning would you use a breaker tool or just remove the rear wheel?
    https://imgur.com/qWR7h1X

  4. #4679
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    Just answer the fucking question lol.


    I’ve never had to use a breaker tool before, so I guess the question really should have been: Is there any detriment to using a breaker tool other than for emergency repairs?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  5. #4680
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    Breaking a chain makes a weak spot at the break, which is why links are used. Removing the rear wheel isn't going to help, though. You'd need to cut your rear triangle. Your chain doesn't have a link? If not, you could break it then put it back together with a link.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  6. #4681
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    Quote Originally Posted by east or bust View Post
    Just answer the fucking question lol.


    I’ve never had to use a breaker tool before, so I guess the question really should have been: Is there any detriment to using a breaker tool other than for emergency repairs?
    It's physically impossible to remove the chain without breaking it since it runs through the rear triangle and the rear derailleur. You can't re-use the pins, so make sure you break the chain using the quicklink. If it's a Shimano chain that doesn't use a quicklink, or if your chain uses a non-reusable quicklink, you'll need to buy some quicklinks before removing the chain.

    All that said, unless your chain is horrendously filthy you probably don't need to remove it to clean it.

  7. #4682
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    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley View Post
    <snip> Your chain doesn't have a link? If not, you could break it then put it back together with a link.
    I'm gonna echo this - if you don't have a quick-link in the chain, get one.

  8. #4683
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    Do you guys re-use quicklinks or do you consider them as one and done? I've been a cheap asshole lately (mainly because I don't have a backup on hand) and have re-used the same link 3x with no apparent issues. Is it munching my cassette into oblivion?
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  9. #4684
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Do you guys re-use quicklinks or do you consider them as one and done? I've been a cheap asshole lately (mainly because I don't have a backup on hand) and have re-used the same link 3x with no apparent issues. Is it munching my cassette into oblivion?
    I re-use. Then again... I don't take my chain off very often.

  10. #4685
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    Reuse here, many, many times.
    To n9 Ill effect so far that I can tell.
    Even Shimano quick links.
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  11. #4686
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    It's physically impossible to remove the chain without breaking it since it runs through the rear triangle and the rear derailleur. You can't re-use the pins, so make sure you break the chain using the quicklink. If it's a Shimano chain that doesn't use a quicklink, or if your chain uses a non-reusable quicklink, you'll need to buy some quicklinks before removing the chain.

    All that said, unless your chain is horrendously filthy you probably don't need to remove it to clean it.
    Unless you're going to hot wax that mofo....





    too soon?
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  12. #4687
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    Quote Originally Posted by grskier View Post
    Unless you're going to hot wax that mofo....





    too soon?
    He doesn't seem like the chain waxing type.

  13. #4688
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    i try not to remove the chain cuz i have heard you shouldn't reuse a quick link,

    so back in the petro lube days I used an on-bike chain cleaner,

    now i use the drip on liquid wax and never clean the chain, the old wax flakes off or you can re-melt it in with a heat gun

    When junior was 16 he could break anything, frames, square spindle BB's, he broke a couple of SRAM quick links so after the second failure (10 min before a dual slalom) I took to re-riveting the chain togetehr instead of using the quick links, it would be a little stiff after re-riveting so had to work it a bit , stopped the broken quick links

    i had a laugh at the removing a chain without breaking the chain comment, the other son has a belt drive city/commuter which of course has no link and you change the belt by unbolting at the chain & seatstay junction

    I have only seen this on belt drive bikes
    Last edited by XXX-er; 05-27-2021 at 11:43 AM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  14. #4689
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    On my personal bikes I reuse quick links for 7-10 rejoins, then I try to replace them (they go into pack/saddle bag for spares).

  15. #4690
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackstraw View Post
    I've struggled with pads over the years also. I don't even remember all the ones I've tried. The other issue is I'm a Large typically, but right on the edge of Medium.

    I've bought Fox Launch and have been happy, but they stretch out and the velcro doesn't get tight enough. So I bought Mediums and they're tight, really tight, but every ride they're getting more comfortable.

    I also bought the Leatt Knee Guard 3DF Hybrid in L/XL and they were a great fit. But then the velcro failed. It wouldn't stay stuck any longer. I just sent them back for a warranty issue. They're only five months old.

    I have a pair of Dakine Slayer I think. Bought those thinking I'd wear under riding pants. Lacking velcro I tried medium and they cut into the back of knee.

    I've had sixsixone pads that were not very good also.
    Just an update on my Leatt warranty return. A brand new pair arrived yesterday from the factory...plus a hat for my troubles I guess. I'm happy with their customer service but just based on the velcro they use I see a failure coming with these new ones also. Time will tell.

  16. #4691
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    Ask the experts

    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    He doesn't seem like the chain waxing type.
    Prior me, yes. Pretty good at running components into the ground due to lack of maintenance. Trying to not be that guy anymore, so gotta start somewhere.

    Picked up some dumonde tech and the instructions say to clean chain thoroughly before first application. To me, throughly clean would involve taking it off and using brake cleaner and a toothbrush to clean it out.

  17. #4692
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    i had a laugh at the removing a chain without breaking the chain comment...
    Guess I’m the only one here still riding an old C’dale Gemini. Could take the chain off that without breaking it if you wanted to. Would need to remove a derailleur pulley still.

    Really wish that Optic I ordered back in the fall hadn’t been canceled....

  18. #4693
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    Quote Originally Posted by east or bust View Post
    Prior me, yes. Pretty good at running components into the ground due to lack of maintenance. Trying to not be that guy anymore, so gotta start somewhere.

    Picked up some dumonde tech and the instructions say to clean chain thoroughly before first application. To me, throughly clean would involve taking it off and using brake cleaner and a toothbrush to clean it out.
    https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...chain-scrubber

    i used to just use one of these filled with simple green

    the absolute cleanest i have ever seen a chain come out is an overnite soak in a few inches of white gas which is what I do to get the chain super clean to switch from petro lube to wax
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  19. #4694
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    And we are back to waxing chains....

  20. #4695
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    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    And we are back to waxing chains....
    It just keeps coming back around, like that quick link on your chain.

  21. #4696
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    Quote Originally Posted by PlayItLeo View Post
    Ymmv (and I’m no expert) but I’ve been perfectly happy with Leatt Airflex Pros. Breathable, decent protection, and have stayed put on my skinny legs.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I had a pair of those like 3-4 years ago when they first came out. They are breathable, but I gave them away eventually because they chafed the top of my shin, and also came down in a crash.

    I have 2 rides on a pair of the new POC Oseus. They felt great when I tried them on, and have a nice amount of side protection. The fabric feels durable. First ride they felt fine. Second ride I wore them under a pair of Fox Flexair pants because temps were 48-53 degrees and windy. The fabric on the back of the knee moved around so much that it rubbed my hamstrings bloody. That was a new one (usually if I get chafing it's either top of shin bone or about 2" up from center of knee cap). I'll give them another try with shorts, since I'll be able to keep them properly adjusted. I want to like them, but not promising so far.

    Anyone tried the TLD Stages? They look like they would fit similar to the Fox Enduro Pro, but maybe stay put a bit better due to the calf band. How's their weird sizing compare to other brands? One review I read had lined up their XL/XXL with most other brands' L.

  22. #4697
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    I've used the TLD Stages for about 20 miles. So far I like them, but haven't hit the ground yet so can't comment on protection. They seem to stay in place well while, but I don't think it's due to the calf band. For one, the tacky side of the band is on the outside and the inside is lined with the mesh material, so it's not really coming into contact with the skin. Two, the calf band seems to land on the back of my knee rather than the calf.

    Sizing seems to be inline with their size chart. Perhaps leaning a bit on the small size. I found the L to be just a little bigger than the Fox Enduro D3O which seem to run quite small. The only discomfort I've experienced in on the back of the knee. Maybe the calf band is bunching up with the other materials. It's easy to ignore and hasn't been too persistent.

  23. #4698
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    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    And we are back to waxing chains....
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  24. #4699
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    Aug 2017
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    Ok, FSA comet crankset. The 10mm self-extracting bolt on the drive side has started to come loose, resulting in chainring wobble. Tightened it, but worked loose again after one ride. Can't find torque specs on the line. Suggestions? Do I not understand self-extracting cranks?

  25. #4700
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    Ask the experts

    on a properly tuned 2x, in this case 30/46 11-34, what is a reasonable expectation of how many cassette cogs I can use on each chainring without the front derailleur rubbing the chain? I suck at the technique (meaning I don’t know when I am “supposed to” change chainrings vs cogs, and I have to look down at the cassette to see what gear I’m in) but also wondering if my drivetrain tune sucks. I’m not trying to run the big cog with the big ring or vice versa… it’s just that about half the cassette for each ring rubs the front der pretty noticeably. The changeover point seems to be “very gently rising terrain” which is pretty annoying. GRX 600/800 mix, if it matters.

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