Page 345 of 366 FirstFirst ... 340 341 342 343 344 345 346 347 348 349 350 ... LastLast
Results 8,601 to 8,625 of 9148

Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #8601
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    2,095
    What's the current recommendation for an affordable tire plug kit?

  2. #8602
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    353
    Quote Originally Posted by John_B View Post
    What's the current recommendation for an affordable tire plug kit?
    The plastic dynaplug ultralite is pretty sweet for $20

  3. #8603
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,690
    Coils.

    Ripmo AF with JadeX. ~19% progressivity.

    Multiple calculators put me on ~550lb spring and thatís what I have on there-bike feels glued to the trail, the rear end feels fantastic for trail riding and rough stuff.

    But it doesnít feel great jumping. Almost like itís soaking up the lip rather than springing off it. Rebound is full open.

    Some folks are saying to add 10-15% spring weight for drops and jumps, does this sound right? Considering a 600 to swap into but donít really want to drop another $100+ if Iím not reading things right.

  4. #8604
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    353
    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon3 View Post
    Coils.

    Ripmo AF with JadeX. ~19% progressivity.

    Multiple calculators put me on ~550lb spring and thatís what I have on there-bike feels glued to the trail, the rear end feels fantastic for trail riding and rough stuff.

    But it doesnít feel great jumping. Almost like itís soaking up the lip rather than springing off it. Rebound is full open.

    Some folks are saying to add 10-15% spring weight for drops and jumps, does this sound right? Considering a 600 to swap into but donít really want to drop another $100+ if Iím not reading things right.
    Try more LSC first

  5. #8605
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Boulder
    Posts
    5,801
    Got the Outbound Trail Evo light yesterday. The inside diameter of the aluminum mount is very sharp / might have a little burr.

    This is going onto carbon bars. Should I sand / lightly file that or not worry?

  6. #8606
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,690

    Ask the experts

    Quote Originally Posted by XtrPickels View Post
    Got the Outbound Trail Evo light yesterday. The inside diameter of the aluminum mount is very sharp / might have a little burr.

    This is going onto carbon bars. Should I sand / lightly file that or not worry?
    Small wrap of heli tape?

    Quote Originally Posted by MegaStoke View Post
    Try more LSC first
    Thanks! somehow I missed this in the manual even though itís spelled out. I incorrectly assumed full open LSC would lead to more spring back but I didnít realize it would also take away the pump support you need for jumping.

  7. #8607
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    PRB
    Posts
    28,977
    Converting an old mountain bike into a bike path/gravel/townie/backup mt bike. Because of the multiple uses, looking for SPD/flat pedals. The more inexpensive the better, so long as it works well. I can accept a little weight penalty given the expected uses.

    This from Venzo (never heard of them but decent reviews): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5J9VGY/
    This from Shimano (more $ than I want to spend if possible): https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-clipl...dp/B000NORMU4/

    Are there other better options? Should I just stick with a name brand like Shimano? Anything (products or thoughts) I'm not considering?
    "fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
    "She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
    "I'd eat a bag of Dicks and wash it down with a Coke any day." - iceman

  8. #8608
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,597
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    These guys still say a code rsc will stop you quicker than a saint (or any other shimano brake):

    https://enduro-mtb.com/en/best-mtb-disc-brake-can-buy/

    Makes me really want to try some trick stuffs though.
    I want to know what the hell their test methodology was, because a lot of those results make very little sense based on my experiences with those brakes.

    There's also a lot of nonsense in their writeups, including citing the Hope E4 as having 4 16mm pistons in one place (correct) and then saying that the E4 has 2 16s and 2 14s (wrong), with the V4 having 4 16s (also wrong) elsewhere.

  9. #8609
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    4,289
    Quote Originally Posted by Danno View Post
    Converting an old mountain bike into a bike path/gravel/townie/backup mt bike. Because of the multiple uses, looking for SPD/flat pedals. The more inexpensive the better, so long as it works well. I can accept a little weight penalty given the expected uses.

    This from Venzo (never heard of them but decent reviews): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5J9VGY/
    This from Shimano (more $ than I want to spend if possible): https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-clipl...dp/B000NORMU4/

    Are there other better options? Should I just stick with a name brand like Shimano? Anything (products or thoughts) I'm not considering?
    The Shimano EH500
    https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/produ.../PD-EH500.html
    is the best flat/SPD combo pedal.

    But if you want cheap just buy some SPD adapters to click into and old pair of double sided SPDs you have lying around:
    https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-SPD-P...08277999&psc=1

  10. #8610
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    PRB
    Posts
    28,977
    If I had a spare pair of SPDs lying around I would just use them and not bother looking to buy pedals, lol.
    "fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
    "She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
    "I'd eat a bag of Dicks and wash it down with a Coke any day." - iceman

  11. #8611
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    12,089
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    I want to know what the hell their test methodology was, because a lot of those results make very little sense based on my experiences with those brakes.

    There's also a lot of nonsense in their writeups, including citing the Hope E4 as having 4 16mm pistons in one place (correct) and then saying that the E4 has 2 16s and 2 14s (wrong), with the V4 having 4 16s (also wrong) elsewhere.
    Yeah, no idea. I feel like brake testing is really hard to do consistently, because any dyno test I see is all over the board.

    Mostly I think it's hard to quantify modulation. Sram's power comes on gradually and builds with more lever pressure. Shimanos power comes on quickly but then doesn't really build that much. Both are good, but in different situations. Not sure how to quantify that effectively with a dyno test.

  12. #8612
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,597
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Yeah, no idea. I feel like brake testing is really hard to do consistently, because any dyno test I see is all over the board.

    Mostly I think it's hard to quantify modulation. Sram's power comes on gradually and builds with more lever pressure. Shimanos power comes on quickly but then doesn't really build that much. Both are good, but in different situations. Not sure how to quantify that effectively with a dyno test.
    Totally, it's a hard thing to do well. I'm just very suspect of that test, based on having tried a whole lot of those brakes, and how little their results line up with my experience.

  13. #8613
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    9,300ft
    Posts
    20,402
    New wheelset, DT240 MS 148x12, put my XT 10-51 on it, and shifting is all off vs the DT350 MS on the other wheelset, almost like the the cassette isn't all the way flush to the hub, except it appears to be so.

    Mech required moving both high and low limit, barrel adjust out all tension, still feels like there is too much tension, and if I tighten the rear axle all the way there is cassette drag on the stay that can be felt when pedaling (but wheel spins with no friction).

    What is wrong?
    Quote Originally Posted by blurred
    skiing is hiking all day so that you can ski on shitty gear for 5 minutes.

  14. #8614
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    LA
    Posts
    249
    Quote Originally Posted by Danno View Post
    If I had a spare pair of SPDs lying around I would just use them and not bother looking to buy pedals, lol.
    You want a pair? I've got a drawer with several 20-year old SPD pairs (Wellgo & Ritchey, mostly) that have collected dust since I made the switch to Time ATACs long ago. Yours for the cost of shipping.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	pedals.jpg 
Views:	96 
Size:	1.48 MB 
ID:	423323

  15. #8615
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    12,089
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Totally, it's a hard thing to do well. I'm just very suspect of that test, based on having tried a whole lot of those brakes, and how little their results line up with my experience.
    I also just think lab conditions are different than real world conditions. One of their tests that they put some emphasis on is a steady deceleration from 45kph to 0 with constant pressure at the lever. While that's a decent test and fairly repeatable in a lab setting, it's realistically not something that probably happens in the real world all that often. They seemed to indicate that heat build up had a pretty significant impact on brake performance, and I would imagine quantifying the impact of heat on the system in a real world setting is tough.

    I don't really doubt their results. I just doubt how applicable those are to all the nuances of how real world use actually happens.

  16. #8616
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    19,628
    How's Specialized with tire warranty?

    Mounted a new Purgatory 2.6 yesterday on a new wheel (1 ride), it seated properly all around the bead. On Mrs C's new Ripley, on an Ibis Blackbird rim. Left it sitting on the bike in the workstand, occasionally spin the tire when I walk by. Zero rides on this tire. Sitting at maybe 30psi.

    Today while wrenching on the truck, tire blew off the rim and sprayed sealant all over. Remounted and tried airing up, it blew off immediately. It remounted way too easily so I expect the bead is damaged.

    Bought it from Performance Bike online, and have a message in to them. Wondering how, warranty works on tires. I've never warrantied a tire - and never had a new one blow off before.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  17. #8617
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    15,332
    What kind of fuckery is this? I pulled the crankset like 30ish miles ago. 8 miles into my ride today and I look down and see a big gap on the spindle non-drive side...did I break and lose a spacer? The arm is torqued on there to spec and not loose or backed out. There is no spacer on the drive side.

  18. #8618
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    5,087
    Quote Originally Posted by NuMexJoe View Post
    You want a pair? I've got a drawer with several 20-year old SPD pairs (Wellgo & Ritchey, mostly) that have collected dust since I made the switch to Time ATACs long ago. Yours for the cost of shipping.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	pedals.jpg 
Views:	96 
Size:	1.48 MB 
ID:	423323
    You should definitely take the Ritcheys and then report back about how many times you crater onto your side from a complete stop when the things hold on like a pipe clamp.

    Video would be nice for us. Entertainment value and all.

  19. #8619
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    livin the dream
    Posts
    5,143
    Quote Originally Posted by Danno View Post
    Converting an old mountain bike into a bike path/gravel/townie/backup mt bike. Because of the multiple uses, looking for SPD/flat pedals. The more inexpensive the better, so long as it works well. I can accept a little weight penalty given the expected uses.

    This from Venzo (never heard of them but decent reviews): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5J9VGY/
    This from Shimano (more $ than I want to spend if possible): https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-clipl...dp/B000NORMU4/

    Are there other better options? Should I just stick with a name brand like Shimano? Anything (products or thoughts) I'm not considering?
    More money than you want to spend but I have Shimano T8000s on my townie. Real XT spd on one side, real aluminum flat pedal with replaceable pins on the other. Neutral weighted (some of the other combo pedals are weighted to spin to the clip side or flat side)

    https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ.../PD-T8000.html


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Best Skier on the Mountain
    Self-Certified
    1992 - 2012
    Squaw Valley, USA

  20. #8620
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,597
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    I also just think lab conditions are different than real world conditions. One of their tests that they put some emphasis on is a steady deceleration from 45kph to 0 with constant pressure at the lever. While that's a decent test and fairly repeatable in a lab setting, it's realistically not something that probably happens in the real world all that often. They seemed to indicate that heat build up had a pretty significant impact on brake performance, and I would imagine quantifying the impact of heat on the system in a real world setting is tough.

    I don't really doubt their results. I just doubt how applicable those are to all the nuances of how real world use actually happens.
    That's kind of what I mean though. Like, I don't doubt that they collected data that says what they reported. I just don't think what they're tested is relevant to the real world. A well designed lab test absolutely can be representative, but achieving "well designed" is hard.

  21. #8621
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The Fish
    Posts
    4,086
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    What kind of fuckery is this? I pulled the crankset like 30ish miles ago. 8 miles into my ride today and I look down and see a big gap on the spindle non-drive side...did I break and lose a spacer? The arm is torqued on there to spec and not loose or backed out. There is no spacer on the drive side.
    need more info, they look like 8120s?
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  22. #8622
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    15,332
    Quote Originally Posted by Eluder View Post
    need more info, they look like 8120s?
    Shimano XT 12-speed on GG Gnarvana. Assuming I somehow lost a spacer by either it breaking or somehow losing one when I pulled the cranks which side do I put the spacers on? I feel like when I pulled the cranks there were two on the non-drive side and now only one?!

    Edit to add: So I think I need one on each side of the BB and I think maybe the one on the drive side cracked and fell off somehow.

  23. #8623
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The Fish
    Posts
    4,086
    Look at the back of the drive side crank arm by the pedal hole and it will tell you the exact model, this will tell us how many spacers you are suppose to have.

    https://dassets.shimano.com/content/...8120-4558B.pdf

    it is more likely it fell off during installation than broke so look around where did the deed.

    the "rings" in this diagram are just orings that are part of the spacer.
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  24. #8624
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Carbondale
    Posts
    11,793
    Quote Originally Posted by summit View Post
    New wheelset, DT240 MS 148x12, put my XT 10-51 on it, and shifting is all off vs the DT350 MS on the other wheelset, almost like the the cassette isn't all the way flush to the hub, except it appears to be so.

    Mech required moving both high and low limit, barrel adjust out all tension, still feels like there is too much tension, and if I tighten the rear axle all the way there is cassette drag on the stay that can be felt when pedaling (but wheel spins with no friction).

    What is wrong?
    Do they have the same offset?
    www.dpsskis.com
    www.point6.com
    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  25. #8625
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Carbondale
    Posts
    11,793
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    I also just think lab conditions are different than real world conditions. One of their tests that they put some emphasis on is a steady deceleration from 45kph to 0 with constant pressure at the lever. While that's a decent test and fairly repeatable in a lab setting, it's realistically not something that probably happens in the real world all that often. They seemed to indicate that heat build up had a pretty significant impact on brake performance, and I would imagine quantifying the impact of heat on the system in a real world setting is tough.

    I don't really doubt their results. I just doubt how applicable those are to all the nuances of how real world use actually happens.
    Only thing I'll say about a test like that, while it doesn't simulate riding your brakes on a steep decent constantly, or long stops coming up to a trail crossing or whatever, what it may do is answer some variable in the equation that you all think about. More of an empirical test than anything. How long to stop from X speed with 4N of force applied to the brake lever... I don't know if they did a series or whatever to develop any equations, but I could see that being part of a process.
    www.dpsskis.com
    www.point6.com
    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •