Ask the experts

[nickwm21]

I have 162.5s on my commuter (some cheap replacements I bought at a random shop when I hade a mid-ride crank snap…)

170s on all other bikes. Even 170s on the peloton.

I hate the shorter cranks… I can feel the difference every pedal and it feels less efficient… I bought some new cranks but haven’t swapped them yet…


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[HankScorpio]

I ran MTB calipers on road hydro levers. I remember it being hard to bleed but they worked awesome.

I would pull the caliper off the frame and shake/tap it a bit. Then bleed with the brake lever elevated. Just keep flushing it through till it works.

Thanks for the tip. The more I think about it, the front brake bled easier because the lever was directly above the caliper. I'll remove the rear one and try bleeding with it under the lever.

[XXX-er]

However you orient whatever lever you are referring to don't you want the bleed hole openning to be level so the fluid doesnt fall out ?

I just bled the SLX that were on my Yeti so you were suposed to rotate the lever until it was level that way when you take the bleed cup off the fluid couldn't go anywhere

I actualy had to take some out cuz the new padz wouldnt quite fit so I leveled the lever took out the bleed screw out while prying GENTLY on the padz, it worked and the brakes were awesume

[ThreeRidges]

New to me commuter with Nexus 8 internal hub, 20T cog. Don’t use gears 1-3, spend a lot of time in 7 and 8. Like the internal hub for city commuting though. Front sprocket is 38T, but I don’t think room to go way higher/larger diameter sprocket without messing with chain guard and the anti-slip solid outer ring/guard. Me thinks a 16T cog in rear (supposedly lowest one can go with Nexus 8) is the cheap first order fix. Would be happy just to pick up the equivalent of two higher gears, and lose bottom two or so. Does this sound right?


Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums

[toast2266]

New to me commuter with Nexus 8 internal hub, 20T cog. Don’t use gears 1-3, spend a lot of time in 7 and 8. Like the internal hub for city commuting though. Front sprocket is 38T, but I don’t think room to go way higher/larger diameter sprocket without messing with chain guard and the anti-slip solid outer ring/guard. Me thinks a 16T cog in rear (supposedly lowest one can go with Nexus 8) is the cheap first order fix. Would be happy just to pick up the equivalent of two higher gears, and lose bottom two or so. Does this sound right?


Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums

Seems about right. Going from a 20t to a 16t should be about 20% harder. How that pans out with the internal hub will somewhat depend on the internal gear ratios, but on a normal 8 speed cassette, that 20% increase in difficulty would roughly make your 16t 1st gear have about the same ratio as your 20t 3rd gear. Which seems like what you're trying to accomplish.

[XtrPickels]

The Switchblade now has a 2022 Float X as I was looking for a lil more cush over the DPX2.

It feels great, much more plush throughout the travel. However, at the Pivot recommended sag, I'm bottoming it out.
I'm not sure if this is because the larger canister is less progressive, or the lack of Pivot's "Custom Valving".

Originally had 0.5 volume spacer, got 1-2 rides in and the bottom-outs were pretty harsh.
I ordered the new spacer kit from Fox (despite what the internet says, the DPX2 kit doesn't fit).

I went to 0.7 where it still bottomed easily. Immediately swapped to 0.9. Riding last night I bottomed ~4-5 times based on the O-Ring, but felt ~2 of them. If I didn't feel those 2, I'd say it was working really well.

I see a few options moving forward and I'm looking for feedback before I eventually try all of them.
1. Run it as it is
2. Bump the pressure up a bit and run a touch less sag than Pivot recommends
3. Throw more compression damping at it
4. Moar Spacer (can go to 1.0 or 1.1)

[toast2266]

The Switchblade now has a 2022 Float X as I was looking for a lil more cush over the DPX2.

It feels great, much more plush throughout the travel. However, at the Pivot recommended sag, I'm bottoming it out.
I'm not sure if this is that the larger canister is less progressive, or the lack of Pivot's "Custom Valving".

Originally had 0.5 volume spacer, got 1-2 rides in and the bottom-outs were pretty harsh.
I ordered the new spacer kit from Fox (despite what the internet says, the DPX2 kit doesn't fit).

I went to 0.7 where it still bottomed easily. Immediately swapped to 0.9. Riding last night I bottomed ~4-5 times based on the O-Ring, but felt ~2 of them. If I didn't feel those 2, I'd say it was working really well.

I see a few options moving forward and I'm looking for feedback before I eventually try all of them.
1. Run it as it is
2. Bump the pressure up a bit and run a touch less sag than Pivot recommends
3. Throw more compression damping at it
4. Moar Spacer (can go to 1.0 or 1.1)

I'm running the new DHX, which is the same damper as the Float X. I'm also bottoming it out quite a bit. Which would indicate to me that it's a damper issue (maybe combined with an insufficient bottom out bumper). It only has the one damper adjustment (which isn't specified as low or high speed), but I'm running it most of the way closed, which has helped. Ultimately though, I think the tune is just a bit off in these shocks (not too surprising for a first gen unit).

If I were you, I'd bump up the compression a click or two and probably also add a bigger volume spacer.

[simple]

2

[Beaver]

I had to increase the volume spacer in my Occam. Moar pressure worked but at the cost of small bump smoothness. The spacer let me maintain the nice active suspension but stopped the bottoming out. I'd go with a bigger spacer. $.05

[gramboh]

My Transition Spire came with 165 cranks, and I haven’t fallen in love with the short arms yet. You can definitely feel the smaller pedaling circle, and that I have less torque. I feel like I’m getting more fatigued when climbing with the shorter cranks too, although that might just be climbing on a heavy enduro sled with slow tires... I think I like the short cranks when descending though?

Personally, I’ll probably stick to 170s going forward, that seems like the sweet spot for me.

I have a new Transition Patrol. First couple rides I wasn't sure about the 165 cranks but I did a big pedal today (Howler in Whistler) and didn't even think/notice them climbing. I prefer shorter cranks descending, always rode 165 on my DH bikes. I'm a high cadence spinner guy, def not a masher even though I have strong legs. My previous trail bike was 175 and they were... ok I guess? New bike has a lower BB so extra clearance is definitely nice. I think I like having my feet closer together descending, I do not swap feet for direction of corners, other than flat corners to drop outside foot.

Road bike is 170 and feels great. Definitely a spinner on the road as well.

[Rossymcg]

just carry on?

Sent from my SM-G973F using TGR Forums mobile app

[Rossymcg]

just carry on?

Sent from my SM-G973F using TGR Forums mobile app

[Tailwind]

I just picked up a Switchblade yesterday and it has a float X. I didn’t have any big issues yesterday on my first ride but we’ll see if I start bottoming out regularly. Update what your results if you don’t mind. I’d try a few more PSI. Pivot has two sag settings on most of their bikes ‘trail’ and ‘race’ so I think even with DW link you have a little wiggle room on the sag.

Not a cheap fix but Cascade Link started offering switchblade linkage. I tend to really trust pivots suspension tunes but I am curious enough I may try it next year.

The Switchblade now has a 2022 Float X as I was looking for a lil more cush over the DPX2.

It feels great, much more plush throughout the travel. However, at the Pivot recommended sag, I'm bottoming it out.
I'm not sure if this is because the larger canister is less progressive, or the lack of Pivot's "Custom Valving".

Originally had 0.5 volume spacer, got 1-2 rides in and the bottom-outs were pretty harsh.
I ordered the new spacer kit from Fox (despite what the internet says, the DPX2 kit doesn't fit).

I went to 0.7 where it still bottomed easily. Immediately swapped to 0.9. Riding last night I bottomed ~4-5 times based on the O-Ring, but felt ~2 of them. If I didn't feel those 2, I'd say it was working really well.

I see a few options moving forward and I'm looking for feedback before I eventually try all of them.
1. Run it as it is
2. Bump the pressure up a bit and run a touch less sag than Pivot recommends
3. Throw more compression damping at it
4. Moar Spacer (can go to 1.0 or 1.1)

[Spencer123]

Possibly a silly question, but is there anything special about the O-ring on the lever bleed screw for Shimano brakes? I am assuming no but wanted to double check.

Was bleeding a friends brakes (shimano SLX, 2 piston) and whoever did it previously had lost the O-ring we discovered. Can I just find any O ring that fits the screw, or should I just get a new screw/O-ring combo for shimano brakes?

Thanks!

[Rossymcg]

Possibly a silly question, but is there anything special about the O-ring on the lever bleed screw for Shimano brakes? I am assuming no but wanted to double check.

Was bleeding a friends brakes (shimano SLX, 2 piston) and whoever did it previously had lost the O-ring we discovered. Can I just find any O ring that fits the screw, or should I just get a new screw/O-ring combo for shimano brakes?

Thanks!

use the o ring off the bleed cup


Sent from my SM-G973F using TGR Forums mobile app

[rideit]

You can find a compatible o ring at your local hardware/fastener store.

[Spencer123]

You can find a compatible o ring at your local hardware/fastener store.

Thanks!

[D(C)]

I’m thinking of getting a progressive spring for my DB Coil CS rear shock. I’m running it on a 2020 Norco Sight 29 (~18% progressive) and currently have a 550 lb/in spring. Things feel pretty good overall but I’d like to see if I can get a bit more sensitivity off the top without compromising bottom-out resistance.

Cane Creek makes progressive springs in 450-550 and 500-610. Coming off a 550, which should I try first?

[Skistack]

Anybody have corrosion issues with Shimano clutches?

My GRX derailleur was sticking - not taking out the chain slack. The round roller bearing clutch thingy was frozen to the derailleur shaft. After soaking in w/ PB Blaster I was able to pry it off. This is what the shaft looked like.



Cleaned off the corrosion w/ steel wool and 400 grit sandpaper, put a thin coat of grease on the shaft, lubed the clutch with Shimano’s secret sauce clutch grease and reassembled.

It seems to be working OK for now, but the question is for how long? I think I’ve ridden this bike in the rain twice, so it’s not like it’s be getting drenched. It do get a bath regularly, but not high pressure.

Would Shimano warranty this? Any preventative maintenance tips?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[climberevan]

Anybody have corrosion issues with Shimano clutches?

Would Shimano warranty this? Any preventative maintenance tips?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

This was well covered up-thread. Yes, to several of us have had the same issues. Yes, Shimano will warranty it.

That one is fuct. When you get your new one grease it now and then with the special grease according to the dealer service guide. LMK and I'll send you a dab from my way too big jar.

[grinch]

I’m thinking of getting a progressive spring for my DB Coil CS rear shock. I’m running it on a 2020 Norco Sight 29 (~18% progressive) and currently have a 550 lb/in spring. Things feel pretty good overall but I’d like to see if I can get a bit more sensitivity off the top without compromising bottom-out resistance.

Cane Creek makes progressive springs in 450-550 and 500-610. Coming off a 550, which should I try first?

If i had to do it again id look at spindrex. Best price and has some adjustment.
My "race only springs" is top quality and comes in 25lb increments but its pricey and you'd want to get the POM spring spacers from SAR or make sure "ROS" is sending POM spacers. The 3d printed dpacers he sent me destructed in a week. He said he's sending my POM spacers(basically super tough material). I was lucky i had some old POM spacers from SAR(speed alloy racing) that i ground to fit the length for my 230 x 65 cc db coil cs

Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

[jono]

just carry on?

I mean, it passed QC, right?



I think I'd contact the manufacturer on that one.

[Skistack]

This was well covered up-thread. Yes, to several of us have had the same issues. Yes, Shimano will warranty it.

That one is fuct. When you get your new one grease it now and then with the special grease according to the dealer service guide. LMK and I'll send you a dab from my way too big jar.

Thanks, I’ll contact Shimano. I already got the lifetime supply tube of grease.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[D(C)]

If i had to do it again id look at spindrex. Best price and has some adjustment.
My "race only springs" is top quality and comes in 25lb increments but its pricey and you'd want to get the POM spring spacers from SAR or make sure "ROS" is sending POM spacers. The 3d printed dpacers he sent me destructed in a week. He said he's sending my POM spacers(basically super tough material). I was lucky i had some old POM spacers from SAR(speed alloy racing) that i ground to fit the length for my 230 x 65 cc db coil cs

Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

Sprindex looks cool, but one review found that the spring rates were off from what was stated, and the actual adjustment range was not that large.
https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/co...spring-review/

[grinch]

Sprindex looks cool, but one review found that the spring rates were off from what was stated, and the actual adjustment range was not that large.
https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/co...spring-review/

Thats interesting to know. Ive heard a lot of springs can be off. Thats been part of SAR and ROS' selling point. They both use eibach springs and go in 25lb increments. SAR doesnt have progressive springs unfortunately. Theyre set up for shipping and on it. Mirkka is very nice.
If the sprindrex adjust 40lbs and was only off 15lbs that stilll gives you a 25lb increment . I think i remember weird starting numbers though , it wasnt the typical 450-475-500 etc as a starting number. Then theres cane creek being a different width from others.
I know POM's from SAR are cheap and they have some for cane creek. ROS was damn close to 300cad after shipping is the killer. He'll message you back on instagram private message jist try and get POM's from him not the 3d printed shit. Springs are quality that a lot of WC guys have or are using. The secret was Sam Hill had a ROS progressive coil in his boxxer back in the day. Never officially admitted.
Someone said nukeproof had some good options. Not sure on CC fitment though. Also ive found some on pinkbike buy n sell for friends. They have a suspension springs section

Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app