Ask the experts

[XXX-er]

That looks like an age damaged old tire but its obviously brand new

[toast2266]

That looks like an age damaged old tire but its obviously brand new

Agreed.

I'd probably warranty it if the shop was cool about it, but not put up much if a fuss if they resisted.

[snowaddict91]

So I bent a Shimano brake lever pretty good today, will I have any luck with bending it back? Also, I've gotten conflicting info, can you replace a lever blade or do you need to replace the whole lever?

[donutlynx]

^^^What type of Shimano brake? Many of the levers are replaceable.

[snowaddict91]

^^^What type of Shimano brake? Many of the levers are replaceable.

They're MT501s. They have a pushpin holding them in that doesn't look to be (easily) serviceable.

I gave it a shot at bending it back this morning with a little heat, mission successful! I know it might make it a bit weaker, but I'm not too concerned about it. I suppose I can replace it eventually, but I have a bike park day planned with a friend this week and don't have much time to go track parts down.

[grskier]

They're MT501s. They have a pushpin holding them in that doesn't look to be (easily) serviceable.

I gave it a shot at bending it back this morning with a little heat, mission successful! I know it might make it a bit weaker, but I'm not too concerned about it. I suppose I can replace it eventually, but I have a bike park day planned with a friend this week and don't have much time to go track parts down.

There are some good videos on youtube on how to service, there is a tiny set screw...

But I watched the videos, got the spare blade, then tried to bend it back, because why not try and... it's fine.

[rideit]

So I bent a Shimano brake lever pretty good today, will I have any luck with bending it back? Also, I've gotten conflicting info, can you replace a lever blade or do you need to replace the whole lever?

I have an XTR 9120 right lever and body for sale for parts if anyone needs it.

[Boissal]

They're MT501s. They have a pushpin holding them in that doesn't look to be (easily) serviceable.

I gave it a shot at bending it back this morning with a little heat, mission successful! I know it might make it a bit weaker, but I'm not too concerned about it. I suppose I can replace it eventually, but I have a bike park day planned with a friend this week and don't have much time to go track parts down.

Get yourself a replacement, that blade is going to snap next time you look at it the wrong way. At least that's been my experience with XT levers but looking at the MT-501 it has the same blade shape and the flat spot right next to the main bend is extremely weak.

[XXX-er]

aluminium does not like being bent once and it really doesnt like being bent twice in the same spot

[snowaddict91]

Yeah, I'm going to pick up a replacement as soon as I get a chance.

[XXX-er]

Along the same lines with a severly bent Aluminium DER hangers I will straighten it but make sure to get a new one

that ^^ compromised hanger will then become the spare

[detrusor]

My kiddos 2013 pivot 5.7 carbon has a rear cable run that is not continuous. I got tired of her bike always being kinda finicky and decided to Drexel out the cable stops. Worked great, full housing run, shifting is perfect.


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[Dantheman]

I did the same thing to my old bike. The shifting was always going to shit and after that it was always great. If there's a silver lining to everything being internally-routed now it's the death of interrupted cable housing.

[snowaddict91]

I did the same thing to my old bike. The shifting was always going to shit and after that it was always great. If there's a silver lining to everything being internally-routed now it's the death of interrupted cable housing.

+1. Death to interrupted cable housing.

Also, you can replace the lever blade on the MT501 by removing the set screw holding the pin in. But don't be a dumbass like me and strip said set screw, leaving your brake lever useless.

[ridinshockgun]

PSA: Leave your brake lever clamps as loose as possible on your bars so they move when you crash. Tight enough they don't move when you brake but loose enough that any force will cause them to rotate on the bars.

[jm2e]

https://www.universalcycles.com/shop....php?id=102770
Just use this.


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[snowaddict91]

https://www.universalcycles.com/shop....php?id=102770
Just use this.


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Found SLX locally and its already replaced and bled. Ergonomics are the same as the 5100 so it'll be fine till I source another for the other side, since the shop only had the one.

Shout out to Over The Edge in Fruita for having the part in stock and a no BS, friendly experience.

[HankScorpio]

I'm upgrading my gravel bike to GRX 11 speed but my frame has post disc mounts (not flat mounts) so I decided to use XT calipers with GRX 810 levers/shifters. I attached the front brake with the proper barb, olive and flange bolt, bled it and it works okay (not great lever feel but its ridable). I do the same to the back brake and am getting almost nothing from the lever. Lever goes bar to the bar and the pistons move just a bit - barely enough to grab the disc. I bleed it again, push fluid through, no bubbles come out - still almost nothing from the lever. No fluid is leaking, no bubbles and I'm 99% sure I have the proper hose and connecting bits.

I'm racking my brain on how to get this rear brake bled. I've bled many Shimano mtb brakes with no issues but can't quite figure this out. Anyone use Shimano mtb calipers with drop bar levers? Wtf am I doing wrong here? I'm close to throwing in the towel and bringing it to the local shop

[evdog]

Anyone tried cranks shorter than 170mm?

This popped up recently under YT suggestions... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7sK...=hardtailparty

He seemed to like 155mm and 160mm cranks. I didn't know they even existed. Reduced pedal strikes was main reason I was interested. But having short legs and history of knee pain, might be worth checking out.

Canfield is the only company I see making cranks < 165mm. Any others you know of?

One comment in the vid was interesting - some companies offer different length cranks but the only difference being the hole drilled in a different spot - the physical length of the cranks are the same, so you get no actual benefit re pedal strikes when going to a shorter length. Something to watch for if swapping out. He didn't name names, but did point out Canfield doesn't do this.

[Boissal]

Anyone tried cranks shorter than 170mm?

This popped up recently under YT suggestions... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7sK...=hardtailparty

He seemed to like 155mm and 160mm cranks. I didn't know they even existed. Reduced pedal strikes was main reason I was interested. But having short legs and history of knee pain, might be worth checking out.

Canfield is the only company I see making cranks < 165mm. Any others you know of?

One comment in the vid was interesting - some companies offer different length cranks but the only difference being the hole drilled in a different spot - the physical length of the cranks are the same, so you get no actual benefit re pedal strikes when going to a shorter length. Something to watch for if swapping out. He didn't name names, but did point out Canfield doesn't do this.

Buddy of mine who's on size L frames always swaps the stock 175 cranks for 165 and loves it, mostly for clearance issues. He also swears his knees feel better. I definitely like the 170 better than 175 and if I find a set of 165 for sale I'll snag it for sure.
I've had shimano cranks in 175, 170, and 165 (afaik their shortest length) and I can confirm the actual length is different, it's not the hole positioning moving up and down the arm.

[toast2266]

I ran 165's on my dh bike. I'm not sure I'd want them on a pedally bike. I'm not even sure I liked them on the dh bike. Even when not pedaling, longer cranks and having a little extra leverage with my back foot is noticeable - better for pumping. But yeah, more pedal clearance is nice.

I run 170's normally. I've gone back to 175's on occasion. It feels like a big circle to spin, but the extra torque on grunty stuff is helpful.

As for cranks that just move the pedal hole, I've only ever seen that on very, very low end cranks. They do it on kid's bikes as a cost saving measure. I've even seen kids cranks with multiple pedal holes so you can move the pedals when the kids grow. But I guess if you're experimenting with super short cranks, you're probably getting into kid's products. I would also note that most of my pedal strikes are while slightly leaned and impact the outer edge of the pedal, so a bit of extra length on the crank doesn't really matter.

The canfield guys are great for experimenting with stuff. That said, I think about 1 in 10 of their experiments yield something that's actually better.

[MegaStoke]

My Transition Spire came with 165 cranks, and I haven’t fallen in love with the short arms yet. You can definitely feel the smaller pedaling circle, and that I have less torque. I feel like I’m getting more fatigued when climbing with the shorter cranks too, although that might just be climbing on a heavy enduro sled with slow tires... I think I like the short cranks when descending though?

Personally, I’ll probably stick to 170s going forward, that seems like the sweet spot for me.

[Tailwind]

I ran MTB calipers on road hydro levers. I remember it being hard to bleed but they worked awesome.

I would pull the caliper off the frame and shake/tap it a bit. Then bleed with the brake lever elevated. Just keep flushing it through till it works.

I'm upgrading my gravel bike to GRX 11 speed but my frame has post disc mounts (not flat mounts) so I decided to use XT calipers with GRX 810 levers/shifters. I attached the front brake with the proper barb, olive and flange bolt, bled it and it works okay (not great lever feel but its ridable). I do the same to the back brake and am getting almost nothing from the lever. Lever goes bar to the bar and the pistons move just a bit - barely enough to grab the disc. I bleed it again, push fluid through, no bubbles come out - still almost nothing from the lever. No fluid is leaking, no bubbles and I'm 99% sure I have the proper hose and connecting bits.

I'm racking my brain on how to get this rear brake bled. I've bled many Shimano mtb brakes with no issues but can't quite figure this out. Anyone use Shimano mtb calipers with drop bar levers? Wtf am I doing wrong here? I'm close to throwing in the towel and bringing it to the local shop

[BigHerm]

I've been on 165 SRAM GX cranks for a few years now, downsized from 175 carbon Descendants. 30" pant inseam, was recommended to try shorter cranks by my bike fitter. I've noticed less hip rocking and lower back pain. Can't say I noticed a difference in pedaling performance. I believe the SRAMs only have the hole drilled closer, but clearance wasn't my main concern.

I have thought about trying 160 but that would mean a whole new BB and my parts budget is pretty shot lately.

[Falcon3]

I just went from 175 to 165 on my trail bike. Not entirely sold on them, my skier legs don’t like spinning and prefer a little mashing. But descending is nicer and fast tight corners are much easier to switch sides dropping the outside pedal down, I feel less crossed up.