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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #6001
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    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    I haven't tried the OneUp (which does seem like it maybe could help, given the ovalized profile) but in general, 35 mm carbon is the exact opposite of what you want for minimizing harshness. A good 31.8 mm aluminum bar is the move.
    Not exactly.They can modify the layup of the carbon to do myriads of different things; stiffness, weight, compliance, etc… High end carbon (either 31.8 or 35) where they actually engineered the layup for compliance will be noticeable.


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  2. #6002
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    Aug 2008
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    Central VT
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benneke10 View Post
    Has anyone in the US bought a bike from Canada (pinkbike buysell) and had it shipped? Would you recommend it if the bike is ~$500 cheaper than anything I can find in the US?
    I bought a bike from RSD bikes in Canada and it was the usual shipping costs ($50) and took an extra day or 2 to go through customs. It may be different for a private sale but I wouldn't hesitate if you're saving that much $$.

  3. #6003
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    yer mmv but i never buy anything from across the line, if you do make sure you scope out ALL costs

    I did buy some 39.95 shoes that ended up costing 112$ to get them on my feet

    Somebody on TGR gave me a pair of boots, the USPS and a beer still cost > 50$
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  4. #6004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Toad View Post
    I have a brake problem. It’s a Shimano XT 2 piston from a couple years ago. The lever is going all the way to the bars. I figured it’s air in the system so I bled it. I’ve probably bled brakes at least a hundred times, many of which were Shimano mineral oils. I followed the instructions exactly. After a bleed, the brake is ok but after a few squeezes, the lever goes limp, back to the bars. I don’t see a leak anywhere. If I pump the lever it will bite again but then it will lose power again. Weird. Anyone experienced this?

    Edit for more info: just after a fresh bleed the brake feels fine but during a ride the lever goes all the way down. When I stop and pump the lever, it’ll feel fine again. I just ordered a new brake so I’ll be doing a post-mortem after it arrives.
    Air is getting into the system somehow... either a seal somewhere or a pinhole... I had a pinhole in a line on some brakes a few years ago that would give me similar results.
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  5. #6005
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    Quote Originally Posted by grskier View Post
    Air is getting into the system somehow... either a seal somewhere or a pinhole... I had a pinhole in a line on some brakes a few years ago that would give me similar results.
    not always the case. I changed my hose that did feck all. I bled re bled and bled again with no air in the system but still was happening.

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  6. #6006
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    Not exactly.They can modify the layup of the carbon to do myriads of different things; stiffness, weight, compliance, etc… High end carbon (either 31.8 or 35) where they actually engineered the layup for compliance will be noticeable.


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    In theory, sure. But I've ridden a lot of high end carbon bars and absolutely prefer the ride of aluminum. I'm far from alone in that - tons of EWS and DH pros with sponsors who make both are also on aluminum and I'm pretty sure it's not because said sponsors would prefer that they ride the cheaper option.

  7. #6007
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    Mar 2006
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    Just a follow up on shimano 12-speed clutches. My SLX clutch looks great after 12 months. Pictures are right after removing the cover and before any cleaning. Early last year I had two XT clutches go bad very quickly. I hope others are having good luck with the “newer” batch of derailleurs.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #6008
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    ^ I've been told by a reliable Shimano source that they have changed the process (amount and way) they now grease those points on the derailleurs.

  9. #6009
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    Oct 2010
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    977
    Yeah there shouldn’t be any difference in clutch performance between the 11- and 12- speed Shimano clutches it’s the same basic engineering principles regardless of the overall side-to-side travel of the derailleur, and I’m sure they wouldn’t radically change materials between models. So the failures had to be from assembly issues. I’d feel good about the new process

  10. #6010
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    Aug 2010
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    Park City
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rossymcg View Post
    not always the case. I changed my hose that did feck all. I bled re bled and bled again with no air in the system but still was happening.

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    Look for weeping at the piston?

  11. #6011
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    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by grskier View Post
    Air is getting into the system somehow... either a seal somewhere or a pinhole... I had a pinhole in a line on some brakes a few years ago that would give me similar results.
    Yep, it was a VERY subtle leak at the lever. I cleaned the lever very carefully with alcohol, dried, re-cleaned, dried and after a ride there was seepage with dust on it. Lesson learned. P.S. The new 4 piston brakes rock.

  12. #6012
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    Jan 2012
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    Snowttingham
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    I'm setting up my coil shock with a coil that came stock on the bike. I've got my sag set correctly but when I lift the bike off the ground the spring isn't tensioned. The actual weight of the frame is creating just enough tension in the spring. is that correct or do I need lower rated shock

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  13. #6013
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    Dec 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rossymcg View Post
    I'm setting up my coil shock with a coil that came stock on the bike. I've got my sag set correctly but when I lift the bike off the ground the spring isn't tensioned. The actual weight of the frame is creating just enough tension in the spring. is that correct or do I need lower rated shock
    Maybe I'm reading this incorrectly... but it sounds like you may just need to tighten your pre-load collar down a bit?

  14. #6014
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    Feb 2014
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    NorCal coast
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    Quote Originally Posted by skaredshtles View Post
    Maybe I'm reading this incorrectly... but it sounds like you may just need to tighten your pre-load collar down a bit?
    That's what it reads like to me as well.

    Tighten the preload collar until it makes solid contact with the spring, and you can no longer push the spring forward/back by hand. Now tighten the preload collar 1 more complete revolution. Done.

  15. #6015
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    That's what it reads like to me as well.

    Tighten the preload collar until it makes solid contact with the spring, and you can no longer push the spring forward/back by hand. Now tighten the preload collar 1 more complete revolution. Done.
    This is when he tells us there's no pre-load collar?

  16. #6016
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    Quote Originally Posted by skaredshtles View Post
    Maybe I'm reading this incorrectly... but it sounds like you may just need to tighten your pre-load collar down a bit?
    yes I'd preloaded it with the weight of the frame on it, all sorted now. had a quick blast in it coil tracks out the back well man

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  17. #6017
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rossymcg View Post
    yes I'd preloaded it with the weight of the frame on it, all sorted now. had a quick blast in it coil tracks out the back well man
    Yes... coil shocks are quite amazing, honestly. I'm strongly considering a coil for my "short travel" (140mm) Trance when the stock Fox dies. Although the Fox has been a trooper so far.

  18. #6018
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    Quote Originally Posted by skaredshtles View Post
    Yes... coil shocks are quite amazing, honestly.
    it made the forks feel skittish, ive got some tinkering to do on them to get them feeling right



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  19. #6019
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rossymcg View Post
    it made the forks feel skittish, ive got some tinkering to do on them to get them feeling right
    You should try a coil fork some time...

  20. #6020
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
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    10
    I'm trying to set up the rebound on my fork (Fox 34 Performance) and using this tuning guide: https://www.ridefox.com/dl/bike/605-...Guide-revC.pdf

    Looking at page 4, am I right to think that I should hear 9 clicks from open to closed? When I actually do it myself, I hear 23 clicks. From the tuning guide I should be set at 7 clicks, but that seems to be based on the 9 clicks total. What am I missing here?

    Thanks.

  21. #6021
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    Quote Originally Posted by skaredshtles View Post
    You should try a coil fork some time...
    do you increase your rebound speed to get more pop with the coil?

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  22. #6022
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Aspen
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmc View Post
    I'm trying to set up the rebound on my fork (Fox 34 Performance) and using this tuning guide: https://www.ridefox.com/dl/bike/605-...Guide-revC.pdf

    Looking at page 4, am I right to think that I should hear 9 clicks from open to closed? When I actually do it myself, I hear 23 clicks. From the tuning guide I should be set at 7 clicks, but that seems to be based on the 9 clicks total. What am I missing here?

    Thanks.
    Only the first 9 clicks do anything.

  23. #6023
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    Dec 2007
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    Hell Track
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rossymcg View Post
    do you increase your rebound speed to get more pop with the coil?

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    No.

    If you're looking for more pop, more low speed compression is usually the way to get it.

  24. #6024
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    May 2008
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    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
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    Whoever recommended the Sam Hill knee pads:

    Thank you. These are the best pads I have run. They feel odd for the first minute you ever put them on, but they stay in place perfectly and are not very hot.

  25. #6025
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    1,601
    Anyone have recommendations on a AFFORDABLE heart rate monitor? This is more for riding a trainer or using a rower. I don't expect to ever take it outside.

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