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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #7751
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTskibum View Post
    Dakine makes a curved one specifically for it and others like it. Have used mine extensively over past year with multiple bikes pretty frequently


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    Perfect, thanks


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    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  2. #7752
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    I have a Jamis Renegade with 2X10 GRX components including an 11-36 cassette. I'd like to go 11-40 to have a bailout gear for some bikepacking I'm doing next month. It looks like it will work with current derailleur with a lot of b-screw adjustment. Any experience with this or know which cassette might work best?

  3. #7753
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    I am using an 11-40 on two bikes, road and gravel, using a regular long cage Ultegra derailluer. No goat link, works great. (34-50 and 32-48)

    Shimano m8000

    https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-XT...Speed-Cassette
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  4. #7754
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    I'm pretty sure the answer is NO, but can anyone confirm if DT Swiss 350 non-boost 15x100 can be converted to 20x110 (also not boost?!) for a possible DJ fork swap/upgrade? Uncharted territory for me on this 20mm stuff coming from XC and Trail bikes. I hate bike industry standards....

  5. #7755
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTskibum View Post
    I'm pretty sure the answer is NO, but can anyone confirm if DT Swiss 350 non-boost 15x100 can be converted to 20x110 (also not boost?!) for a possible DJ fork swap/upgrade? Uncharted territory for me on this 20mm stuff coming from XC and Trail bikes. I hate bike industry standards....
    Not any help, but I have no idea how we had 12, 15, and 20mm axles and 20 is the one that basically went away.

    Good luck with the conversion.
    www.dpsskis.com
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    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  6. #7756
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    Plus Non-boost, Boost, Super Boost and DH 150-something standards... WTF.

    Again from an XC background I'm a fan of 15mm b/c I don't need to bolt the axle on, wish they didn't do the 12mm thru for road/cx/gravel bikes, but this whole 20mm is new territory.

    So many more DJ fork options in 20x110 vs 15x100 unless I'm dropping ~1k on a way too high end fork that I definitely don't need for my uses; 40+ y/o small DJ/tables and mostly pumptrack duty. May just run what I have, but if it's a matter of just end-caps makes an upgrade more feasible.

  7. #7757
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    Quote Originally Posted by grskier View Post
    Not any help, but I have no idea how we had 12, 15, and 20mm axles and 20 is the one that basically went away.
    This belongs in a "what a dumb decision by the industry" thread.

  8. #7758
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    My GF's Revolt with 105 shifts just fine with a GRX 46/30 and 11-40 AliExpress cassette. B screw is nearly maxed though.

    I'm thinking about getting the same cassette and will update if it also works with Ultegra Di2.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  9. #7759
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTskibum View Post
    I'm pretty sure the answer is NO, but can anyone confirm if DT Swiss 350 non-boost 15x100 can be converted to 20x110 (also not boost?!) for a possible DJ fork swap/upgrade? Uncharted territory for me on this 20mm stuff coming from XC and Trail bikes. I hate bike industry standards....
    Assuming you have the "normal" 350 hub, no. There's a 350 OS that does accommodate 20 mm, and they make a 15 mm kit for that one, so it's possible but unlikely that you have that combo. Do the end caps thread on or are they just a slip fit with o-rings to secure them?

  10. #7760
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTskibum View Post
    I'm pretty sure the answer is NO, but can anyone confirm if DT Swiss 350 non-boost 15x100 can be converted to 20x110 (also not boost?!) for a possible DJ fork swap/upgrade? Uncharted territory for me on this 20mm stuff coming from XC and Trail bikes. I hate bike industry standards....
    if remembering correctly the 350 came in 2 hub shell sizes so you cant convert from 15/qr to 20 due to the shell itself, dumb

    that said if looking for a cheap dj fork in 15mm try to find a takeoff circus from a specialized or other oem brand which put 15mm lowers on them, you can then add the rebound damper from the better circus fork and it actually rides pretty decently for the $

    mrp/dvo/xfusion and some other off brands also made small batches of dj forks with 15mm axles you may stumble across

  11. #7761
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    Quote Originally Posted by forty View Post
    if remembering correctly the 350 came in 2 hub shell sizes so you cant convert from 15/qr to 20 due to the shell itself, dumb

    that said if looking for a cheap dj fork in 15mm try to find a takeoff circus from a specialized or other oem brand which put 15mm lowers on them, you can then add the rebound damper from the better circus fork and it actually rides pretty decently for the $

    mrp/dvo/xfusion and some other off brands also made small batches of dj forks with 15mm axles you may stumble across
    Figure that's the case re different hub entirely. Have an old take-off Specialized Circus Comp w/ 15mm thru now. Kicked around an upgrade for me and pass this onto kids bike. Debating whether an X Fusion Slant is an upgrade to my current Circus Comp and there is a Cirus Expert air fork for sale locally that might be good, but is 20x110 hence the question. Complete 1st world problem

  12. #7762
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    Iíve got a buddy passing through town in a few days, and heís asking me to do a bleed on his new SRAM Code RSCs. It sounds like thereís air trapped somewhere in the system causing a spongy lever feel.

    I donít have any DOT brakes and as such donít own bleed kits for them. Whatís the lowest effort way to get air out of there, without performing a full flush with two syringes? Iím envisioning filling a syringe with fluid at the lever and opening the bleed port at the caliper, ala a shimano cup gravity bleed?

  13. #7763
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    Quote Originally Posted by MegaStoke View Post
    Iíve got a buddy passing through town in a few days, and heís asking me to do a bleed on his new SRAM Code RSCs. It sounds like thereís air trapped somewhere in the system causing a spongy lever feel.

    I donít have any DOT brakes and as such donít own bleed kits for them. Whatís the lowest effort way to get air out of there, without performing a full flush with two syringes? Iím envisioning filling a syringe with fluid at the lever and opening the bleed port at the caliper, ala a shimano cup gravity bleed?
    I am skeptical that anything you do without a proper bleed kit is going to improve the situation. With sram's bleed kit, a proper bleed takes like 2 minutes, so maybe just find someone with a bleed kit?

    That said, if I only had one syringe, I'd attach it at the lever, leave the caliper closed, and pull a vacuum on the syringe to try to get any bubbles to float out. I'd do some lever flicking and line tapping too.

  14. #7764
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Weren't those things coil with just an air "preload"? I think the main spring is a coil and you can add a little air to increase ramp / stiffen the fork. No idea on pressure range, but a lot of forks like that ran pretty low air pressure. Like 10 psi or so.

    But I might be remembering wrong - you could pop the top cap off and see if there's a spring in there.
    Yea that makes sense, I feel stupid.

  15. #7765
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTskibum View Post
    Figure that's the case re different hub entirely. Have an old take-off Specialized Circus Comp w/ 15mm thru now. Kicked around an upgrade for me and pass this onto kids bike. Debating whether an X Fusion Slant is an upgrade to my current Circus Comp and there is a Cirus Expert air fork for sale locally that might be good, but is 20x110 hence the question. Complete 1st world problem
    have you thrown in the damper from a circus sport yet?
    compression damper, not rebound like i said above, it completely changes the fork from crap into decently mediocre
    also i think you can swap lowers from sport/comp/expert, which means you could get an expert with 20mm lowers and swap your 15mm ones on

    i havent ever ridden a slant, but i love my xfusion vengeance and have had great experiences with their service dept so would be willing to try one out

    reminds me i have an old argyle rct that i finally found a replacement air spring for in the garage i need to swap back on to test out, i remember loving that fork 10 years ago and wonder how it compares now

  16. #7766
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    Quote Originally Posted by climberevan View Post
    My GF's Revolt with 105 shifts just fine with a GRX 46/30 and 11-40 AliExpress cassette. B screw is nearly maxed though.

    I'm thinking about getting the same cassette and will update if it also works with Ultegra Di2.
    Thx...just have to find the cassette now! Read about a few cheap ones they sell on Amazon that seemed like they had issues. Since I'm headed on a tour I want to avoid that.

  17. #7767
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    Quote Originally Posted by milestogo View Post
    Thx...just have to find the cassette now! Read about a few cheap ones they sell on Amazon that seemed like they had issues. Since I'm headed on a tour I want to avoid that.
    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...d.php?t=346960

    AliExpress products that are good thread
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  18. #7768
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    I have two wheel sets on hand that could be a great upgrade for my wife's gravel bike. Weight is really close to the same for both.

    1. 2018 Specialized Roval SLX 24 aluminum wheels with DT Swiss 350 internals. 24h rear with 20h front. 20mm inner width. Hookless rim.
    2. Reynolds AR41 carbon with Reynolds hubs. 24h front and rear. 21mm inner width. Hooked rim.

    I have been riding the Reynolds for a few years and like them but I'm wondering if they will be a bit harsh for her. There bike is a giant revolt advanced 2(?) Carbon.

    Thanks!

    Seth

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  19. #7769
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    I'm seriously beating a dead horse here, but tire pressure will make a MUCH bigger difference than carbon vs aluminum rims. That Roval Al rim must be really light to get it down to carbon weight, so the Reynolds rim might actually be stronger.

    The Revolt seatpost is really flexy, which further dilutes any slim possibility of feeling a difference between wheels. My GF is running 24mm IW Easton carbon wheels on her Revolt and loves them with 45mm tires at 25psi.

    As a side note, I'm really loving the Redshift stem on my stiff AF Carbonda. It's worth the 130g penalty, even for my somewhat weight weenie self. I talked to them at Sea Otter and they gave me a good discount and said i could return it if I didn't like it, but that no one ever does.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  20. #7770
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    A very experienced shop and race wrench told me yesterday that he is using light viscosity fork oil instead of mineral oil in his brakes to reduce fade under heating. Anyone else heard of this, experimented with this?

  21. #7771
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canada1 View Post
    A very experienced shop and race wrench told me yesterday that he is using light viscosity fork oil instead of mineral oil in his brakes to reduce fade under heating. Anyone else heard of this, experimented with this?
    Sounds like a solution in search of a problem to me, but I'm no expert.

  22. #7772
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    Quote Originally Posted by climberevan View Post
    I'm seriously beating a dead horse here, but tire pressure will make a MUCH bigger difference than carbon vs aluminum rims. That Roval Al rim must be really light to get it down to carbon weight, so the Reynolds rim might actually be stronger.

    The Revolt seatpost is really flexy, which further dilutes any slim possibility of feeling a difference between wheels. My GF is running 24mm IW Easton carbon wheels on her Revolt and loves them with 45mm tires at 25psi.

    As a side note, I'm really loving the Redshift stem on my stiff AF Carbonda. It's worth the 130g penalty, even for my somewhat weight weenie self. I talked to them at Sea Otter and they gave me a good discount and said i could return it if I didn't like it, but that no one ever does.
    Thanks Evan. I do have a redshift stem on there also and will likely go with the carbon wheels.

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  23. #7773
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canada1 View Post
    A very experienced shop and race wrench told me yesterday that he is using light viscosity fork oil instead of mineral oil in his brakes to reduce fade under heating. Anyone else heard of this, experimented with this?
    My understanding is that most suspension oils have additives to reduce foaming and minimize aeration of the oil, none of which would really make any difference in brakes. Synthetic suspension oils probably also hold up better to abuse over time, but again, I don't think mountain bike brakes are asking much of the oils, so I doubt that makes any real difference either.

    If he's doing to it reduce fade, that would imply that suspension oil has a better ability to draw heat away from the caliper. Regardless of whether suspension oil is notably different than mineral oil in that regard, there's such a tiny quantity of oil in those systems, I'm pretty skeptical that it would make any difference at all. Synthetic oils are probably going to expand from the heat a bit less, but any modern brake has a reservoir to handle that heat expansion so I don't think there'd be any real benefit there.

    Ultimately seems like the kind of thing that has some very minor theoretical advantages, zero real world advantage, but it lets the mechanic talk about it and make himself look techy and smart.

  24. #7774
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canada1 View Post
    A very experienced shop and race wrench told me yesterday that he is using light viscosity fork oil instead of mineral oil in his brakes to reduce fade under heating. Anyone else heard of this, experimented with this?
    I've been using 2.5 or 3w suspension oil in Shimano brakes for years bc it's way cheaper, I already had a ton for moto shocks, and it's red. Red is faster, as we all know.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  25. #7775
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    Interesting that combo doesn't swell seals or have other drawbacks.
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