Ask the experts

[toast2266]

I’m in if it’s 2 for 1 extensions and calf implants.

Maybe there'll be an arbor day sale. Fingers crossed - I could use some too.

[Dee Hubbs]

Or trim 10mm off of top the carbon seat post collar

Maybe it was only 5mm..

[rideit]

Still ballsy!

[XXX-er]

2) Almost all the mid priced droppers are decent, all the expensive ones are decent, avoid the bargain/lowest priced ones. You really have rebuildable ones, and disposable ones..

I may be misteaken but I remember being told those seat posts are all the same re-branded seat post and disposable means replacing a disposable cartridge which is not that expensive ??

[climberevan]

This isn't a question, but I thought some of you might appreciate seeing deep into the guts of a Shimano hydraulic Di2 road shifter. The MC in this one was sticking a bit, and I became frustrated enough to fully tear it down to determine if the 'ol take it apart and reassemble repair technique would work. Spoiler alert: it did. I also bent the return spring a few degrees to push a bit harder. The piston has a bit of wear, which I think is caused by a slightly out of alignment direction of pull by the little arm, so I spun it 180 degrees before reassembling. The number of really tiny bushings and circlips was a little surprising.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Another question about brakes. New bike came with Code R. I actually loved the Code RSC on my old bike. The Code R levers feel very squishy even with multiple bleeds.

Swap out to the RSC levers or try something new? I have used and owned several Shimanos and they are good and reliable but I just need more modulation than that. I had TRPs 3 or 4 seasons ago and they were so finnicky.....sounds like the newer ones are better?

I like lots of modulation, 4 piston power and the missing piece for me is a shorter lever throw. Like everyone I wish Trickstuff brakes were actually available.

[Boissal]

If you happen to have Shimano brakes around give them a shot with MTX pads. They're advertised as giving added modulation. I thought it was advertising nonsense but MTX is based in SLC and the owner was super responsive when I was asking questions online. I ended up swinging by his house to grab some pads to test out. Shockingly enough they've really made my XT brakes feel less on/off. We're not at the level as the DominionA4 brakes I have on the GG but the feel is vastly improved compared to what I was used to, especially with resin pads.
Which brings me to my next recommendation: Hayes DominionA4. Took me exactly one time pulling on the lever to understand the hype as I was successfully controlling my very first nose manual.

[toast2266]

Another question about brakes. New bike came with Code R. I actually loved the Code RSC on my old bike. The Code R levers feel very squishy even with multiple bleeds.

Swap out to the RSC levers or try something new? I have used and owned several Shimanos and they are good and reliable but I just need more modulation than that. I had TRPs 3 or 4 seasons ago and they were so finnicky.....sounds like the newer ones are better?

I like lots of modulation, 4 piston power and the missing piece for me is a shorter lever throw. Like everyone I wish Trickstuff brakes were actually available.

If your goal is modulation, I'd swap for RSC levers. Easier to get a good lever feel, and they definitely have better modulation than the regular R's (due to the "S" - swinglink / cam in the lever).

[Dumbest Known Time]

This isn't a question, but I thought some of you might appreciate seeing deep into the guts of a Shimano hydraulic Di2 road shifter. The MC in this one was sticking a bit, and I became frustrated enough to fully tear it down to determine if the 'ol take it apart and reassemble repair technique would work. Spoiler alert: it did. I also bent the return spring a few degrees to push a bit harder. The piston has a bit of wear, which I think is caused by a slightly out of alignment direction of pull by the little arm, so I spun it 180 degrees before reassembling. The number of really tiny bushings and circlips was a little surprising.

This is the kind of fiddly bike shit that gives me anxiety just looking at the pictures.

[climberevan]

This is the kind of fiddly bike shit that gives me anxiety just looking at the pictures.

Hah. I actually had a really great time taking it apart and figuring out how to reassemble the pins which were under tension by the springs etc. Plus I finally had a reason to use the $$ Knipex tweezers that I impulse bought a while back.

[J. Barron DeJong]

Hah. I actually had a really great time taking it apart and figuring out how to reassemble the pins which were under tension by the springs etc. Plus I finally had a reason to use the $$ Knipex tweezers that I impulse bought a while back.

Now do a full mechanical tear down/rebuild instead of Di2

[climberevan]

Now do a full mechanical tear down/rebuild instead of Di2

Hahaha... Why would I consider mechanical road shifters, now that Di2 has been invented? My fingers can only make tiny little movements to change gears now.

The XT shifter on my MTB is threatening to fail, though, so I'll be sure to do a TR if that happens. Unless they start making 12s MTB Di2, of course.

[Dantheman]

Which brings me to my next recommendation: Hayes DominionA4. Took me exactly one time pulling on the lever to understand the hype as I was successfully controlling my very first nose manual.

[/fistbump]

[El Chupacabra]

Experts: can you use a SRAM X Sync 2 chainring (ie SRAM 12-speed crankset) with a Shimano 12-speed drivetrain (everything else Shimano - chain, cassette, derailleur, shifter)?

[climberevan]

12s appears to be cross compatible. Ms CE ran an XT cassette with XO shifter, der, chain for a while. Nothing about the chainring indicates that you'd have a problem. DH will prob weigh in with the real scoop though.
E.t.a . : See below.

[Dee Hubbs]

Chanrings should stay with their respective brand chains.
The Shimano 12 speed chain doesn't mesh well with SRAM chainrings (or ant 11 speed rings). Their inner links are really narrow, and dont seat deep enough on the SRAM 12s rings.
Spend the money to get a Shimano 12 Hyperglide chainring. If you're trying to use a SRAM crank there are chainrings that fit.
Like Wolftooth, or Absolute Black or North Shore Billet to name a few.

[El Chupacabra]

Thanks - yes, was asking about using a SRAM crank with a Shimano drivetrain. Looking around at assembling a bike bit by bit.

[east or bust]

Which brings me to my next recommendation: Hayes DominionA4. Took me exactly one time pulling on the lever to understand the hype as I was successfully controlling my very first nose manual.

Did some research after reading your comment and found a pretty interesting pink bike article from 2018 about the R&D that Hayes put into the A4.

So is the short and narrow that these are top tier for enduro/downhill riding? I rode new to me Code RS last season, and while they were a step up I felt they were a bit lacking.

[cat in january]

Total jong regarding hydraulic brake question. I have a bike that collected dust for a while. When I put the wheels on the brake pads were engaged on the rotors. Very likely compressed the levers when it was off the bike. Wrong thing to do I now know. I used a screw driver to try and push the pads back. I tried adjusting at the levers, but still stuck. The brakes are elixir cr. I would rather not spend money and time with taking it in to a shop. Tried googling, but not sure how to solve the problem.


Ok looked some more and seems there’s a bleed valve at the levers I should open when I push back the pads

[ctsmith]

It would seem unlikely you’ve got too much fluid, I would do some more levering to push pistons in (with the pads removed). I have an assortment of used toothbrush handles for this and typically you can find a size that works well to pry those pistons in.

[VTskibum]

Plastic tire levers w pads removed are also good for this task. Elixir’s we’re always kinda funky to work on IME, would personally limit the time before taking to a shop. Also might be able to grab used older 2 piston SRAM guides or Shimano SLX for cheap enough if you look around.

[cat in january]

Thanks guys I will try pushing them in more

[toast2266]

Thanks guys I will try pushing them in more

The issue you're having is pushing fluid back into the reservoir in the lever. When pistons are pushed out, fluid from the reservoir has been pushed out into the hose / caliper, so now your goal is to push it back into the reservoir. This is tough because when you push on a piston, rather than going back into the reservoir the fluid often just pushes one of the other pistons out.

Sometimes you can work back and forth on the pistons and get everything re-settled. But sometimes it's easier to just open up the bleed port, push the pistons back in (which will push fluid out the bleed port), and then re-bleed the system.

[bagtagley]

Chanrings should stay with their respective brand chains.
The Shimano 12 speed chain doesn't mesh well with SRAM chainrings (or ant 11 speed rings). Their inner links are really narrow, and dont seat deep enough on the SRAM 12s rings.
Spend the money to get a Shimano 12 Hyperglide chainring. If you're trying to use a SRAM crank there are chainrings that fit.
Like Wolftooth, or Absolute Black or North Shore Billet to name a few.

Yep. Shimano chain worked for a few miles on a SRAM chainring until it started grinding. Kinda fudged the chainring.

[sethschmautz]

Realizing after reading this that some of the grinding on my trail bike is likely from the chainring on my e13 crank. Looks like the UL is rated for 10/11/12 speed Shimano and SRAM. Does anybody have any experience with these rings? RF and Wolftooth don't seem to have any options for e13 so I'm probably stuck with their ring either way, right? Any better rings for e13 cranks? I have 12 speed Shimano.

Seth

Edit: nevermind. Looks like AB makes an e13 compatible ring.