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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #4876
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Mexico 2.0
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    818
    I can't notice a difference between Fox and Push seals/wipers/foam rings in my 36. The difference between a fork ready for a service and a fork freshly-serviced is perceptible, though.
    kittyhump.com - Fund Max, Cat Appreciation, Bike

  2. #4877
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    SLC burbs
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toddball View Post
    The difference between a fork ready for a service and a fork freshly-serviced is perceptible, though.
    True dat. I serviced my Mezzer a few weeks back as it was feeling a bit harsh despite not tweaking any of the settings. Lowers were quite a bit drier than they should have been and there was a nice layer of moon dust at the end of the stanchions. The first ride with the fresh fork was shockingly smooth. Don't skimp on the service kids!
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  3. #4878
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
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    I was gona do mine after looking at youtoobes but the mechanic said here let me show ya, banged it out real quick, bought him a 6pack

    my take is this stuff worked so good from new and continues to work so good i can't really tell the before/after difference

    probably ^^means I got lucky or I suck

    note to self, pre-emptively buy beer next time I'm in town
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  4. #4879
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    How important is the scuff washer in a Chris King headset? I’ve got a solid clicking sound coming from my headset. When I take that washer out it seemed to go away. Haven’t ridden without it yet.

    It’s a dropset 2


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  5. #4880
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    1,680
    Should be an easy one for the experts but any issues mixing tire sealant? Usually use Orange seal but was in a bind and couldn't find any at one point last year so ended up using Stans and now I don't know what's in what tires anymore between 4 bikes. Better to remove and clean old sealant prior to adding new or just dump some more in and worry about more important things in life?

  6. #4881
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by rudy View Post
    Should be an easy one for the experts but any issues mixing tire sealant? Usually use Orange seal but was in a bind and couldn't find any at one point last year so ended up using Stans and now I don't know what's in what tires anymore between 4 bikes. Better to remove and clean old sealant prior to adding new or just dump some more in and worry about more important things in life?
    There's a 95% chance it'll be fine because the various tire sealants aren't really all that different.

    But there's a 5% chance it'll form mustard gas and your whole neighborhood will have to evacuate.

  7. #4882
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    Aug 2002
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    PA
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    ^^ Lol.

  8. #4883
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    I'm sure i have read articals on the subject, check pink bike & do some goggling

    I think i have mixed orange and stans but can't remember exact
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  9. #4884
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    Jul 2005
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    1,680
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    There's a 95% chance it'll be fine because the various tire sealants aren't really all that different.

    But there's a 5% chance it'll form mustard gas and your whole neighborhood will have to evacuate.
    Now I’m hoping for mustard gas

  10. #4885
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Snowttingham
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    1,294
    Quote Originally Posted by Canada1 View Post
    Best fork seals?

    SKF last significantly longer for me than fox. Any others I should try?
    don't sweat it, just change em up regular

    Sent from my SM-G973F using TGR Forums mobile app
    i dont kare i carnt spell or youse punktuation properlee, im on a skiing forum

  11. #4886
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Central VT
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    4,806
    Why is my Hope hub "ghost" pedaling only in the smallest rear cog?

    I replaced my freehub recently and now it does this only in one gear. Did I put too much grease in before the new freehub body went on? Is this worth pulling off the cassette and freehub to fix?

  12. #4887
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    Dec 2010
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    5,013
    Check to see your cassette lock ring is tight enough

  13. #4888
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    462
    Quote Originally Posted by Flounder View Post
    Yeah saw that thread but it seems to be people that have already made up their minds about inserts. I wondered what the experts would say about why I should use it. Doesn’t seem to be a thing around here. It’s Vermont though and sometimes it takes a while for things to catch in here. Seems to prevent flats and rim damage but those aren’t problems I have.
    Tannus Tubeless Armour. They work the best, plus they’re red.

  14. #4889
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    Sep 2009
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    in the trench
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    Tannus or vittoria. They both work well and are a similar and reasonable weight.
    If youre not flatting or dinging rims and youre happy with your air pressure i guess you dont need them. You may heve just jinxed yourself though. Better buy them $$$$

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  15. #4890
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    Aug 2008
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    Central VT
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    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    Check to see your cassette lock ring is tight enough
    Well that worked. Thanks man.


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  16. #4891
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    3,429
    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    True dat. I serviced my Mezzer a few weeks back as it was feeling a bit harsh despite not tweaking any of the settings. Lowers were quite a bit drier than they should have been and there was a nice layer of moon dust at the end of the stanchions. The first ride with the fresh fork was shockingly smooth. Don't skimp on the service kids!
    How hard was the Mezzer service? Any documentation or videos to watch? I need to do this.

    Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

  17. #4892
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
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    5,529
    On my new (to me) bike, the threads for the cable guide bolt on the Fox 36 fork are stripped. I’m thinking it should be simple to helicoil it as a fix, but wondering if anyone else has tried that and how that turned out, or if anyone has a better suggestion?

  18. #4893
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Hell Track
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong View Post
    On my new (to me) bike, the threads for the cable guide bolt on the Fox 36 fork are stripped. I’m thinking it should be simple to helicoil it as a fix, but wondering if anyone else has tried that and how that turned out, or if anyone has a better suggestion?
    Happened to me. I just zip tied the cable to the arch.

  19. #4894
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    Jan 2008
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    BC to CO
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong View Post
    On my new (to me) bike, the threads for the cable guide bolt on the Fox 36 fork are stripped. I’m thinking it should be simple to helicoil it as a fix, but wondering if anyone else has tried that and how that turned out, or if anyone has a better suggestion?
    You’re not the first, or last to do this. It’s a super common mistake, as the threads in the magnesium lowers strip super easy.
    The threads/hole are deeper than the provided bolt. If you get a longer M3 x 0.5 bolt you can usually get the last 1 or 2 mm to engage in some undamaged threads.
    Just don’t bottom out the bolt and over torque it and rip out the remaining threads.
    I have one fork that the cable holder is hanging on by 2 threads, I marked it with a drop of red paint in the bolt head to remind myself not to remove it if it’s not critical to my maintenance job.

  20. #4895
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
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    5,529
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Happened to me. I just zip tied the cable to the arch.
    That’s where I am right now.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    You’re not the first, or last to do this. It’s a super common mistake, as the threads in the magnesium lowers strip super easy.
    The threads/hole are deeper than the provided bolt. If you get a longer M3 x 0.5 bolt you can usually get the last 1 or 2 mm to engage in some undamaged threads.
    Just don’t bottom out the bolt and over torque it and rip out the remaining threads.
    I have one fork that the cable holder is hanging on by 2 threads, I marked it with a drop of red paint in the bolt head to remind myself not to remove it if it’s not critical to my maintenance job.
    To be clear, I’m pretty sure it wasn’t me who’s stripped the threads. With my luck and skills when I do wreck something on the new bike it will be of much higher consequence.

    Good to know about the longer bolt, i’ll give that a try first.

  21. #4896
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    Jan 2017
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    Can/USA
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    1,686
    Finally received my pair of Magura MT7’s. Now they are both set for rear hose length, guess that’s how magura makes them. Any tricks to setup to avoid a bleed? Unsure how I can trim the front hose and not bleed but I’m no expert!


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  22. #4897
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    Sep 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sandbox View Post
    Finally received my pair of Magura MT7’s. Now they are both set for rear hose length, guess that’s how magura makes them. Any tricks to setup to avoid a bleed? Unsure how I can trim the front hose and not bleed but I’m no expert!


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I assume this would work on Magura like on other brakes, but I have no experience with Magura -

    With the wheel off, and perhaps the pads also, squeeze the lever and intentionally over extend the pistons in the caliper - BUT DO NOT go so far as to force the pistons to fall out. Detach hose from lever end, trim, reattach with whatever new hardware is needed (olive, barb, etc). (Mark your trim point before starting.) Push pistons back into caliper, which forces fluid back upstream to the lever.

    Ideally this works as a way to trim the hose without needing to bleed. It has potential for a bigger fuckup if you force out the pistons though, or ham handedly damage the pads or pistons.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  23. #4898
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    5,013
    That seems complicated. Measure the hose length you need. Hold the hose up in the air like at eye level and cut with an appropriate tool. Put in the olive and thread in the lever while still holding it upright. Works for me 100% of the time.

  24. #4899
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    11,184
    Quote Originally Posted by sethschmautz View Post
    How hard was the Mezzer service? Any documentation or videos to watch? I need to do this.

    Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
    Manitou is good about documentation but there’s really nothing to it. As with a pike etc, takes 10 mins. I prefer to do most of procedure with bike flipped upside down. Pro tip for any fork: remove that circular wire spring from the dust seals and let em sit on the top of stanchions. Makes it easier to slide the lowers back on w/o damaging the dust seals.

  25. #4900
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    693
    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    That seems complicated. Measure the hose length you need. Hold the hose up in the air like at eye level and cut with an appropriate tool. Put in the olive and thread in the lever while still holding it upright. Works for me 100% of the time.
    x2, this works. I like that pads idea -very clever but it seems like moving them even just a miniscule amount would spooge out brake fluid across your garage. I just cut and reattach, and never have to bleed.

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