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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #2651
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
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    cow hampshire
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    5,665
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    that ^^ might be really hard on your knees
    Yeah, phuck that! I want a ton of float for happy knees.

  2. #2652
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Wasatch
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    6,071
    Quote Originally Posted by Roxtar View Post
    Sounds like more of a rim issue. Are you sure that thing isn't drilled for Schrader?
    Anyway I've always been happy with the WTB brass ones. I avoid aluminum valves after snapping one off on the climb up burro pass.
    That was a long shitty day.
    Stock valves with WTB. Slow leaker in rear and valve part keeps coming unscrewed at Teflon tape. Going to get etrthirteen plasma aftermarket I think


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I need to go to Utah.
    Utah?
    Yeah, Utah. It's wedged in between Wyoming and Nevada. You've seen pictures of it, right?

    So after 15 years we finally made it to Utah.....


    Thanks BCSAR and POWMOW Ski Patrol for rescues

    8, 17, 13, 18, 16, 18, 20, 19, 16

    2018/2019 (24/32)

  3. #2653
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
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    cow hampshire
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    5,665
    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley View Post
    No. Upgrade to Shimano and sell me that GX shit for cheap.
    You realize that if I upgrade the Sram to better Sram, I still have the GX shit to unload. I haven't ridden XT in 20 yrs. I've been a sram drivetrain fan until this 12sp shit.

  4. #2654
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    CO/UT
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    2,517
    Quote Originally Posted by jackstraw View Post
    I kind of think my 12sp GX system sucks. The B-gap is just a pia. I've now adjusted everything more times in 3 months than I ever did in 4 years of my 11 sp. So the question...does the upgrade on the shifter do anything? I've upgraded derailleurs and felt the difference, but didn't notice a shifter improvement. Is it there?
    Me too. So much goddamn drivetrain tinkering. On the plus side, I've gotten way better at tuning derailleurs.

    Always liked my SRAM drivetrains, but my new bike is SLX 12sp. Stoked to give it a go.

  5. #2655
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    LA
    Posts
    194
    Quote Originally Posted by whyturn View Post
    Best Schrader after market valve???? Mine are crap and popped out of tire when loosening the cap.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    The 949 Racing valve stems worked great for me when I drilled out a wheelset from presta to schraeder. If I had both, I'd offer to send them por nada, but for some reason, I can only find one in the bin. Don't see having a need for them again, but they're top quality stuff, and a damn site cheaper than any Stans, WTB, American Classic MTB-specific presta tubeless valvestem.

  6. #2656
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    LV-426
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    17,326
    I have a little bit of play in a SRAM GXP crankset - any suggestions on how to get rid of it? I thought it might be bad bearings, so removed the cranks - and bearings are smooth, no play. Cleaned and regreased splines, reinstalled and torqued, and there's still a little play.

    Threaded GXP BB, and the washers are in place and in the right order. No wavy washer, but IIRC that is only for the press fit GXP BB.

    This is the stock, original crankset and BB on this bike.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  7. #2657
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Ogden
    Posts
    664
    Quote Originally Posted by snowaddict91 View Post
    Me too. So much goddamn drivetrain tinkering. On the plus side, I've gotten way better at tuning derailleurs.

    Always liked my SRAM drivetrains, but my new bike is SLX 12sp. Stoked to give it a go.
    You notice slx being way noisier than gx? Iím same boat as you with 12 speed SLX. Itís my first Shimano dt in over a decade and not sure if I need to adjust the clutch or not. Granted the stumpy chainstay is super close in the four -five highest gears. But it was the same as my old bike and it was stealthily silent. I sometimes forget to flip the clutch lever but even after that itís clangy AF.

  8. #2658
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    slc
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    13,053
    Advice for dealing with Commencal's half-baked internal routing? Pics below show the seatstay and the weld at the seat tube that the brake hose simply will not navigate past after endless fiddling. I even tried threading a shifter cable through as proof-of-concept and it wouldn't go.

    At this point I don't have the slightest idea how they accomplished this at the factory. The only access from the seat tube to the top tube is a ~1/4" hole.


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  9. #2659
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    21,682
    I hope I am just thinking out my ass but I gotta wonder if that hole was just a vent for the welding or was it really suposed to have a cable running thru it?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  10. #2660
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    LV-426
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    Does the brake hose route out of that oval hole in the left seat stay, in the first pic?

    Or does the brake hose travel internally down the full length of the down tube, and snake around the bottom bracket, before exiting somewhere else?
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  11. #2661
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    The stock brake line went into the oval seatstay port, up the seat stay, into the top tube, and out another port near the head tube.

    I did get the shifter cable to go through going front-to-back, but that's not an option for the new brake hose because of the banjo bolt. The stock brake is a SRAM Level that doesn't use a banjo and I'm starting wonder if that's the only way this will actually work (other than routing externally).

  12. #2662
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    LV-426
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    The stock brake line went into the oval seatstay port, up the seat stay, into the top tube, and out another port near the head tube.

    I did get the shifter cable to go through going front-to-back, but that's not an option for the new brake hose because of the banjo bolt. The stock brake is a SRAM Level that doesn't use a banjo and I'm starting wonder if that's the only way this will actually work (other than routing externally).
    Are you using a brake that has a banjo attachment at both the caliper and the lever?
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  13. #2663
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    9,909
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    The stock brake line went into the oval seatstay port, up the seat stay, into the top tube, and out another port near the head tube.

    I did get the shifter cable to go through going front-to-back, but that's not an option for the new brake hose because of the banjo bolt. The stock brake is a SRAM Level that doesn't use a banjo and I'm starting wonder if that's the only way this will actually work (other than routing externally).
    You have banjo bolts at both ends? I'm assuming hayes brakes - not sure what their fittings look like.

    Most internal routing that I've played with isn't big enough to fit hardware. You need to get one end of the hose down to just the hose and then thread that through.

  14. #2664
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
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    818
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    You have banjo bolts at both ends? I'm assuming hayes brakes - not sure what their fittings look like.

    Most internal routing that I've played with isn't big enough to fit hardware. You need to get one end of the hose down to just the hose and then thread that through.
    Dominions have a banjo at the caliper end, and a normal inline fitting at the lever.


    Reattach the caliper end and feed the lever end through.

  15. #2665
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    Oct 2003
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    slc
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    Sorry, didn't mean to confuse, banjo is just at the caliper. But, having a banjo bolt (that, AFAIK, cannot be removed) on the hose means the hose can only be threaded back-to-front. The stock brake uses a cheaper non-banjo hose that theoretically could be threaded in the other direction.

    So far, I've managed to successfully thread a shifter cable front-to-back several times, but never back-to-front despite a ton of trying. Thus, I'm becoming concerned that front-to-back is the only viable option for hydraulic hose as well, which is physically impossible with a banjo hose.

  16. #2666
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    Jan 2019
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    Mid-tomahawk
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    818
    Got it.

    Feed something through front to back, tape it to the end of the hose, pull it back through.

  17. #2667
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    2,878
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Got it.

    Feed something through front to back, tape it to the end of the hose, pull it back through.
    HAB beat me to it. This should work. Finding the right amount of tape to make the transition between pull string and brake hose smooth without getting too much might take a few tries but this method should work.

    Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

  18. #2668
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    Oct 2003
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    slc
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    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Feed something through front to back, tape it to the end of the hose, pull it back through.
    Except I haven't even been able to get a shifter cable through back-to-front and I've tried a *lot*.
    Last edited by Dantheman; 10-25-2020 at 05:47 PM.

  19. #2669
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    CO/UT
    Posts
    2,517
    Quote Originally Posted by westoxified View Post
    You notice slx being way noisier than gx? Iím same boat as you with 12 speed SLX. Itís my first Shimano dt in over a decade and not sure if I need to adjust the clutch or not. Granted the stumpy chainstay is super close in the four -five highest gears. But it was the same as my old bike and it was stealthily silent. I sometimes forget to flip the clutch lever but even after that itís clangy AF.
    I've only had it out once but I didn't notice. Now I probably will, though.

  20. #2670
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    2,613
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    Except I haven't even been able to get a shifter cable through back-to-front and I've tried a *lot*.
    Thread the shifter cable from front to back, attach the brake cable to the shifter cable with a barb connector, and pull the brake cable from back to front.

  21. #2671
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
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    13,053
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    Thread the shifter cable from front to back, attach the brake cable to the shifter cable with a barb connector, and pull the brake cable from back to front.
    Derp, I read that too fast and totally misread the suggestion. I'll give it a shot.

  22. #2672
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
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    2,613
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    Derp, I read that too fast and totally misread the suggestion. I'll give it a shot.
    Do you have one of these?
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    Its the best way to attach the shifter cable to brake line without adding bulk.

  23. #2673
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    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
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    Don't have that doohickey, but I thought some foil tape might do the trick and it worked. Man, what an unnecessary PITA.

  24. #2674
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    In a van... down by the river
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    5,995
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    Don't have that doohickey, but I thought some foil tape might do the trick and it worked. Man, what an unnecessary PITA.
    Internally routed shit is really irritating. Bike industry:


  25. #2675
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    CO/UT
    Posts
    2,517
    Quote Originally Posted by skaredshtles View Post
    Internally routed shit is really irritating. Bike industry:

    But it looks so good.

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