Ask the experts

[Rossymcg]

I've had centerlock rotors come loose. So yes.

ive had a frame snap so maybe take some welding equipment as well

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[toast2266]

ive had a frame snap so maybe take some welding equipment as well

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... or I can just not ride centerlock rotors, and then I don't need to worry about a lockring tool.

[HAB]

... or I can just not ride centerlock rotors, and then I don't need to worry about a lockring tool.

#therightthingtodo

[rideit]

I have a whole box of old adaptors. I have no clue what most of them are for. Hayes used to stamp part #s on them and I had a chart showing what fork and rotor size each one worked with. But that was before 80,000 different wheel size/hub width/rotor size combinations existed.

As for centerlock I go out of my way to avoid them and any bike/wheelset that comes with them. My old Mojo SL came with them on XTR wheels. What pissed me off most about them was limited selection of replacement options all of which cost significantly more than available 6-bolt options at the time. Maybe it is better now.

Interestingly I did find a cool cassette tool that I definitely carry in my tool kit. Wonder if it could be used to remove a centerlock rotor? It does work for cassette lockrings at at 15g not much of a weight penalty. https://bikerumor.com/2019/03/13/rev...saves-the-day/

It *may* work for a rear centerlock, but likely not a front. In order to make room for 12 and 15mm axles, most centerlock rotors on what we ride now lock from the outside with a bb tool.
They look like this:

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/s...CABEgLuI_D_BwE

[evdog]

Thanks. I've avoided centerlock for 10+ yrs so am not up on these new developments : )

[alive]

some great knowledge in here... nice work. Trying to keep this TGR sourced bike going with some new wheels. https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...ht=titanium+29

Have it all sorted, but looking for Mavic front and rear 9mm adapters as it is still an old school QR setup. I'm sure they are available online, but with everyone switching things out the other way, thought there may be a bunch in random part bins? Any Idea where to find them? Thanks!

[rideit]

some great knowledge in here... nice work. Trying to keep this TGR sourced bike going with some new wheels. https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...ht=titanium+29

Have it all sorted, but looking for Mavic front and rear 9mm adapters as it is still an old school QR setup. I'm sure they are available online, but with everyone switching things out the other way, thought there may be a bunch in random part bins? Any Idea where to find them? Thanks!

Well, if I had some, they would be yours for free!

[evdog]

Check your LBS if it is still open. They usually have bins of old random parts.

[alive]

Thanks! Yea, the ones that were open didn't have any around. May just order on line, but if anyone is looking to get rid of any, would rather send funds for toilet paper or beer....

[HankScorpio]

Ok experts, are Shimano shift cables are larger diameter than others? I put a black Shimano shift cable in my drop bar shifters and there is a lot of friction- so much so that it won’t release enough to shift from the largest rear cog down the cassette.

I’ve isolated it to the cable or shifter. Derailleur shifts without the chain on but feels like there is resistance.

Hoping the problem is a $2 cable and not a $150 shifter/brake.


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[Iowagriz]

If I remember correctly, different sized housing and cable diameter for road and mtb. I made that mistake many years back. Not sure if it still applies to the current stuff.

Maybe it was brake VS shifter cable diameter....

Either way large diameter cables in road housing was my problem.

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[HankScorpio]

If I remember correctly, different sized housing and cable diameter for road and mtb. I made that mistake many years back. Not sure if it still applies to the current stuff.

Maybe it was brake VS shifter cable diameter....

Either way large diameter cables in road housing was my problem.

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After racking my brain and much swearing, I figured out that the Shimano cable I used has a 1.2 mm diameter while most other shifter cables are 1.1 mm. I put in a 1.1 mm cable it now it works with the 4mm housing. Who woulda thunk .1mm makes a difference? Problem solved with the easiest solution.

[rideit]

It’s almost like they were trying to make it incompatible or something.

[HankScorpio]

It’s almost like they were trying to make it incompatible or something.

Right? You'd think if the bike industry could keep one thing standard it would be diameter of a goddamn shift cable.

[rideit]

I am pretty sure Sram (actually Grip Shift) started it with 1.1, maybe a patent infringement issue?

[toast2266]

I am pretty sure Sram (actually Grip Shift) started it with 1.1, maybe a patent infringement issue?

I think Campy road stuff might have had 1.1 mm cables prior to Grip Shift. Not 100% sure on that though.

[Eluder]

I think Campy road stuff might have had 1.1 mm cables prior to Grip Shift. Not 100% sure on that though.

They do have a slightly different head for no reason other than its Campy.

1.2mm use to be the standard, 1.1 came about because of grip shift as stated and is all we ever stock.

[Dantheman]

What would be the ideal BB spacer setup for the following:

-Boost frame
-73 mm BB shell
-1x11 drivetrain
-RF Turbine 2x/3x 104 bcd cranks (they were cheap!)
-I'd prefer to run the chainring on the outside of the crank tabs, if possible

[rideit]

That’s hard to calculate without all of the pieces in hand, and tried on the frame in question, IMO. Experiment?

[Dee Hubbs]

What would be the ideal BB spacer setup for the following:
-Boost frame
-73 mm BB shell
-1x11 drivetrain
-RF Turbine 2x/3x 104 bcd cranks (they were cheap!)
-I'd prefer to run the chainring on the outside of the crank tabs, if possible

Optimal chain-line for a Boost drivetrain is between 51mm to 53mm.
To run a 1x 104 Chainring on those cranks you must mount it on the inside of the tabs to get a correct chain-line, it would fall in the 52mm zone. Mounting on the outside of the tabs will make your chian-line 58mm+.
Any sort of spacers on the drive side also makes your chain-line worse.

[Dantheman]

No go on the outside tabs, got it. No biggie, it was a purely aesthetic concern.

From what I can tell you would normally install this type of BB with one 2.5 mm spacer on the drive side. So, one DS spacer and ring mounted on the inside tabs is a 52 mm chainline? Could I run that one spacer on the NDS to move the chainline in if needed, or will that make the BB explode?

[toast2266]

No go on the outside tabs, got it. No biggie, it was a purely aesthetic concern.

From what I can tell you would normally install this type of BB with one 2.5 mm spacer on the drive side. So, one DS spacer and ring mounted on the inside tabs is a 52 mm chainline? Could I run that one spacer on the NDS to move the chainline in if needed, or will that make the BB explode?

Spacer on nds is fine. If the bb has a plastic widget that goes inside the frame in between the bearing cups, you may need a spacer on the nds to maintain the proper distance between the cups.

[Dee Hubbs]

73 mm BSA threaded BB? If so you're on the right tract, Typically its 1 spacer on on the DS, zero spacers on the NDS.
Theoretically you could put he spacer on the NDS to adjust your chain-line, but larger chain rings would have clearance issues wit the chainstay, but thats old school stuff.
Spacer on DS, 1x on inside of tabs and your chalice should be good to go.

[Dantheman]

Yeah, 73 mm BSA. Excellent, thanks. I was definitely overthinking this.

[Dee Hubbs]

It looks way better on the outside of the spider, but does not work worth shit. This was a big mistake in the early 1x conversion times.