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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #4551
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Missoula
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    1,695
    Quote Originally Posted by Sandbox View Post
    My LBS has basically told me to pound sand for the sticky sram issue. Another shop also told my buddy they won’t repair them and instead just ordered a new set ( at full price).

    So I guess it depends where you go but it’s nice that there are still some shops doing this!


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    Kind of strange. it's not hard to do, the parts aren't expensive, and your brake will work like new afterward.

    The guides on my hardtail were 5 years old when I had to rebuild the front and it works great. According to strava I got those brakes in june 2015 and have done 8500mi since. If I rode/cared about that bike anymore I'd rebuild the rear lever and maybe the calipers.

  2. #4552
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Can/USA
    Posts
    1,176
    Quote Originally Posted by jamal View Post
    Kind of strange. it's not hard to do, the parts aren't expensive, and your brake will work like new afterward.

    The guides on my hardtail were 5 years old when I had to rebuild the front and it works great. According to strava I got those brakes in june 2015 and have done 8500mi since. If I rode/cared about that bike anymore I'd rebuild the rear lever and maybe the calipers.
    I think they are just so swamped with covid they donít even have the interest to look at if they have the parts, can warranty them. In all honesty have had some terrible service over the year since covid.

    In good news my Maguraís showed up last week so once I get some down time from work Iíll be throwing those on. Iíll probably rebuild the sram for a backup/ buddy set, not worth selling with all the shortages.


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  3. #4553
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    2,377
    Grips for big hands...whatcha got?

    Specifically...I've been using ODI Rogues for the last couple years because they are nice and thick. Recently put on some ODI Elite Flows - I love the lower-profile, less-squishy, more-direct feel. But they are noticeably smaller diameter, and made me hands a bit achey. My hands were wondering "why such a thin shaft" and "missing the usual meat..."

    So: does anyone have recs for a lower-profile, less-squishy, more-direct BUT larger diameter than Elite Flows? Basically Elite Flow but larger diameter.

    These Ergon GA2 FATs seem like they would work: https://ergonbike.shop/products/ergon-ga2-fat-1
    Last edited by meter-man; 05-18-2021 at 08:34 PM.
    sproing!

  4. #4554
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Los Alamos, NM
    Posts
    1,750
    Oury grips fit that description.
    I love the ESI pure silicone, Super Chunky, grips but they are a little soft for what you're talkin about

  5. #4555
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    3,533
    I have a near new set of these if you want

    https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/gui...ips-Thick,9671

    Good for aluminum bars maybe not carbon

  6. #4556
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    OR
    Posts
    1,777

    Ask the experts

    I like lock on oury grips and lizard skins north shores depending on price I can get them at.

    I am ESI curious

    Bought some PNW grips to try too on my ďwifeísĒ bike that I really bought with me in mind. Expert move IMO

  7. #4557
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Montrose, CO
    Posts
    3,244
    Quote Originally Posted by jamal View Post
    Kind of strange. it's not hard to do, the parts aren't expensive, and your brake will work like new afterward.

    The guides on my hardtail were 5 years old when I had to rebuild the front and it works great. According to strava I got those brakes in june 2015 and have done 8500mi since. If I rode/cared about that bike anymore I'd rebuild the rear lever and maybe the calipers.
    Forgot to follow-up the other day, but the local shop is going to rebuild the levers for me. $27/side for the rebuild kit, plus labor. Easy enough, though they are a few weeks out on service. Luckily cooler temps are in the forecast and they behave fine if its not stupid hot.

  8. #4558
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Three-O-Three
    Posts
    14,614
    Quote Originally Posted by meter-man View Post
    Grips for big hands...whatcha got?

    Specifically...I've been using ODI Rogues for the last couple years because they are nice and thick. Recently put on some ODI Elite Flows - I love the lower-profile, less-squishy, more-direct feel. But they are noticeably smaller diameter, and made me hands a bit achey. My hands were wondering "why such a thin shaft" and "missing the usual meat..."

    So: does anyone have recs for a lower-profile, less-squishy, more-direct BUT larger diameter than Elite Flows? Basically Elite Flow but larger diameter.

    These Ergon GA2 FATs seem like they would work: https://ergonbike.shop/products/ergon-ga2-fat-1
    I run the GA2 Fat grips on all of my bikes and absolutely love them. I never get forearm pump and I haven't had hand or wrist issues since switching to them a few years ago.

  9. #4559
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Boston hopefully temporarily
    Posts
    589
    I am also looking for new fatter grips. Currently have ergon gd1s which felt great at first but wear fast. Have used older enduro ergons as well but not the new ones. Tried foam silicone and did not like them I think I like some contouring and texture for grip.
    Anyone tried the chromag squarewave XLs? currently backordered but look interesting. What about the sq labs?

  10. #4560
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    73
    Oury grips have always been appropriately fat and cushy for my hands. 33mm OD. Long wearing soft enough rubber, taboot. They also have a nice new single-sided lock design.

  11. #4561
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    CA
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    2,377
    Quote Originally Posted by smmokan View Post
    I run the GA2 Fat grips on all of my bikes and absolutely love them. I never get forearm pump and I haven't had hand or wrist issues since switching to them a few years ago.
    Sweet - thanks for the input. Ordered a pair - will report back.

    Quote Originally Posted by carlh View Post
    I am also looking for new fatter grips. Currently have ergon gd1s which felt great at first but wear fast. Have used older enduro ergons as well but not the new ones. Tried foam silicone and did not like them I think I like some contouring and texture for grip.
    Anyone tried the chromag squarewave XLs? currently backordered but look interesting. What about the sq labs?
    I do really like the ODI Rogues. They are fat and sqooshy, and generally pretty great. Give those a look too. (I wanted to try something with a little less sqoosh.)
    sproing!

  12. #4562
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    livin the dream
    Posts
    4,485

    Ask the experts

    Any bolts on a bike that I should not use blue loctite on?

    I ask because the rear thru axle on the new Banshee needs to be retorqued every other ride, which seems excessive... when I built the bike I just put a small amount of grease on the thru axle threads... Iíve never put loctite on an axle just due to the amount of removal/reinstall that happens there... But loctite goes on pretty much every other bolt when I build...


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    Best Skier on the Mountain
    Self-Certified
    1992 - 2012
    Squaw Valley, USA

  13. #4563
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    3,533
    If that rear axle comes loose that often something is wrong with how well it seats and not the threads backing out. That's my opinion but I would have to see it. Something is likely out of tolerance. Try another axle

  14. #4564
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    10,623
    You fat grip people should buy some Meaty Paws.

    *I've never tried them and I dislike large grips. But I think the name is funny.

  15. #4565
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    697
    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    Any bolts on a bike that I should not use blue loctite on?

    I ask because the rear thru axle on the new Banshee needs to be retorqued every other ride, which seems excessive... when I built the bike I just put a small amount of grease on the thru axle threads... Iíve never put loctite on an axle just due to the amount of removal/reinstall that happens there... But loctite goes on pretty much every other bolt when I build...


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Keith posted this on the other site in response to the same question. I just came across it searching for the axle standard b/c Iíll probably replace the DT with a bolt-on.


  16. #4566
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    livin the dream
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    4,485
    Awesome - thanks. Iíll try that.


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    Best Skier on the Mountain
    Self-Certified
    1992 - 2012
    Squaw Valley, USA

  17. #4567
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    23,855
    I wouldn't say I prefer it but I have used plumbing tape along with red/ blue/ green loctite,

    carbon paste is also great stuff

    its just another tool in the box
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  18. #4568
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    3,533
    My turn to ask the experts.

    I've been chasing this issue for months. Why does this Ultrega Di2 derailleur keep grabbing the chain like this? No clutch so when she is riding the chain does bounce and then it catches like this. I've replaced pulley wheels, chain, cassette, and chain rings. Took a link out of chain to not be as loose. What is my solution? She races this weekend. Derailleur doesn't have a bend.


  19. #4569
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    3,533
    Band aid is a Sram x1 pulley wheel. Glad I keep old broken derailleurs. Seems to be a good fit.


  20. #4570
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
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    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    My turn to ask the experts.

    I've been chasing this issue for months. Why does this Ultrega Di2 derailleur keep grabbing the chain like this? No clutch so when she is riding the chain does bounce and then it catches like this. I've replaced pulley wheels, chain, cassette, and chain rings. Took a link out of chain to not be as loose. What is my solution? She races this weekend. Derailleur doesn't have a bend.

    Maybe pulleys were swapped with the floating pulley on the bottom?

    Maybe just a frame with a shitty chainline?

    Maybe some weird backpedaling while shifting thing?

    I dunno though. That's a weird one. Maybe just perform an exorcism on the derailleur.

  21. #4571
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    [a] Van [down by the river]
    Posts
    1,408
    in the first shot, is the chain on the smaller font ring? honestly looks like the chain might be too long.

    it sized properly?

  22. #4572
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Posts
    1,706
    Is your pulley cage slightly bent/twisted?


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  23. #4573
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Central VT
    Posts
    4,534
    Anyone have experience with Race Face warranty? The warranty page on their website is a bit vague.

    I cracked a 1 year old ARC 30 alloy rim and was asked to send it back for them to look at. Hoping for a new rim and will be a bit annoyed if I went to the trouble to send it back and they tell me I'm SOL.

  24. #4574
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
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    Quote Originally Posted by HankScorpio View Post
    Anyone have experience with Race Face warranty? The warranty page on their website is a bit vague.

    I cracked a 1 year old ARC 30 alloy rim and was asked to send it back for them to look at. Hoping for a new rim and will be a bit annoyed if I went to the trouble to send it back and they tell me I'm SOL.
    I warrantied some cranks. Same thing - said they'd have to look at them. Sent them in and new cranks showed up fairly quickly.

  25. #4575
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    3,383
    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    My turn to ask the experts.

    I've been chasing this issue for months. Why does this Ultrega Di2 derailleur keep grabbing the chain like this? No clutch so when she is riding the chain does bounce and then it catches like this. I've replaced pulley wheels, chain, cassette, and chain rings. Took a link out of chain to not be as loose. What is my solution? She races this weekend. Derailleur doesn't have a bend.
    Chain looks long. Shimano 11s Road procedure is running the chain around big ring and big cog bypassing the derailure, add 2 links (3 links if the outer/inner plate don't match up).
    Also make sure upper pulley and lower pulley are in correct position and in correct orientation. Lower pulley has shorter teeth than the upper.
    Also for others looking for help, some Shimano chains are directional, these ones always have writing on one side, so always put the writing/stamping facing out. Not relevant to your issue as I see stamping on your chain facing out, and its not a directional model chain anyways.

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