HAB, do you have much time on a Slayer?
HAB, do you have much time on a Slayer?
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
YMMV but my take is that the pressure in the shock is the pressure in the shock no matter what the gauge sez, its either too much or too little or just right but what is key is that the pump keeps pumping
the 15yr old pump i had didnt pump high enough so I had to buy a new one ( probably out of the norco book) that made more pressure when i got the yeti and it still works fine
but you know ... the dude abides eh
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
It’s a ripper, I think you would really enjoy it.
*most* of my rides involve a bunch of climbing, I’m a fan of the additional versatility of the Altitude.
But yes, every bike has a flavor.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
Just bought a combo shock/tire pump from Amazon that just arrived today. My other pump has generally stayed in the truck along with a floor pump and a good tire gauge so I can set pressure at the trailhead before each ride.
I have had the need to have a shock pump while riding and it seems silly to have to carry two pumps. We'll see if this one is good at tires, shocks or, hopefully, both. I'll post back.
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My take as well. I have an assortment of old non- fancy shock pumps. They all work. No idea if the gauges are accurate, but they're reasonably consistent with each other.
Don't really feel like there's a need for something more accurate since I'm setting up shocks by sag % with calipers.
I bought a digital shock pump this year after the RS that came with my pike had the gauge fail. I really like the digital for repeatability. I am picky and adjust pressure for big temp swings so it gets used every couple months.
My mechanic is telling me that oval chainrings cause faster drivetrain wear. Fact or fiction? Never heard that anywhere else.
There is a ‘theory’ that the minute cycling of the derailluer cage/clutch causes the clutch mechanism to fail prematurely, but I think it’s a bunch of bull hockey.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
Locktite on the B-screw? I swear mine is backing out on its own on big downhills. My drivetrain will go from shifting damn near perfectly (as well as it can with a bent and re-straightened hanger) to absolutely shitting the bed the next time I hop on the bike. I notice it 3 minutes into a ride but I'm short on time and deal with it by fucking with the cable tension. I kinda works but sounds like an old 3x. I usually forget about it and the cycle repeats itself with every ride.
Anyone else has a B-screw with a mind of its own that needs to be glued in place?
"Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise
Shimano XT. But I imagine it would also happen with SRAM
2 votes for Loctite, I'll give it a go. Poor shifting makes me see red, shit was immaculate for 1500 miles across 2 bikes then a branch in the derailleur and a loose B screw make me feel like I'm back in the early 2000s...
"Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise
While I like my Digital Lezyne, I'm not sure that 1 psi resolution makes a big difference when you're at hundreds of PSI.
I, personally, value the size of the handle more than anything else; those shock pumps with the little plunger heads hurt my dainty palms when pumping up rear shocks.
Other pumps, Like the Lezyne Shock Drive pump, have big honkin' handles.
Agreed on bunch of bull hockey. Minor suspension compressions also cycle the derailleur clutch. As does any little bump in the trail. If the clutch fails from the little bit of movement from an oval chainring, the clutch was just a piece of shit that wasn't going to last anyways.
I could see oval chainrings themselves wearing out a tiny bit faster than round chainrings of equivalent tooth count, since the skinny parts of the oval are essentially a smaller chainring, and smaller chainrings wear out faster. But that seems like an almost inconsequentially minor nitpick.
No issues with B-Tension screws backing out. As mentioned upstream somewhere, the new white SRAM B-Tension tool is dead easy to use. I set the B Tension with the bike at sag, and then use a paint pen to mark the spot on the tool where the mark lines up while the bike is in the stand (not under sag).
Speaking of paint pen, once I get a derailleur dialed I mark the barrel adjuster with a paint pen. That way I have a reference point if it goes out of wack.
often the cable tension needs adj cuz really buddy bent the der hanger, straighten the hanger and you may not need to adj the cable at all seen that > once
i got an axiom shock pump which seems to work quite well ( they are out of stock btw) I think some company in Taiwan makes and markets different pumps under different names depending on who wants their logo on it
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
This is more of an Ask the JONGs question, but I don’t see that thread so...
I just bent the shit out of a few teeth on my cassette and blew up my derailleur, so I figure it’s a reasonable time to replace and upgrade.
So, uh, how do I do that? Just replace the cassette and derailleur with upgraded components, or do I need to / should replace other drivetrain components too? How far do I take it - shifters, cables etc too?
It would be helpful if you explained it like I’m a moron, because I am. In this case anyways, and presumably many others.
I'm taking myself to a dirty part of town, where all my troubles can't be found...
Chainrings, chain and cassette are one family.
Derailleur and shifter and cable are relatives but not immediate family members.
You can replace your derailleur without doing anything to your shifter. Just give it a fresh new inner cable.
Chains wear at the same rate as your cassette and chainring.
There are 2 camps for replacing your chain, cassette and chain ring:
1. You can change a slightly worn chain part way through your drive trains life, to extend the life of the cassette and chainring.
2. Run all three components into the ground until they all wear out and need replacing.
I would guess that your chain is pretty worn, so replace both your cassette and chain, and look at the chainrings tooth profile to see if they are worn to the point of replacing. If they look like even pyramids they are okay, if they look like sharks teeth, or shaped like a wave, they also need replacing.
That Enduro roundup a while back showed that most of them were actually pretty accurate, so it just boils down to what features you want. And honestly, it doesn't matter if your pump's not accurate as long as it's consistent. I like the digital ones because they're easy to read and be consistent with. I have the Fox one which is the same as the RS and I think also CC. The rubber tubing that protects the hose is cracked and loose at the ends but it has no affect on the pump itself. And it's a tad long to cram into most hip-packs, but I only ever think about bringing a pump with me when I get a brand new fork or shock.
One thing I don't agree with on chain, cassette, and chainrings wearing. With chainrings often being aluminum these days they wear a lot faster than the other two. I often replace chainring before a chain and rarely replace the steel cassette. Chain wear has vastly improved since SRAM 1x.
do digital pumps need a battery ?
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Just another data point, but my buddy put a pair of 2.4 Conti Kaisers on his 25mm rear wheel. Burps like crazy. Granted, we tend to run slightly lower pressures around here. Works ok now, but he has to run 24-25psi, while I rund 21psi, on a 30mm rim.
If you want to run higher pressures, nevermind
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