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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #5501
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    Attachment 380563

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    I took a closer look at my XTR that is just shy of 1000 miles, yours looks way more jacked.
    Derailleur has same miles with some rock hits, crashes, and a bunch of getting hung up on bush. It has more “float” then new but shifts the same as day one. All I do is keep things relatively clean, quick moondust mist off after every ride and then spin chain through WD40 rag and apply whatever chain lube before every ride in dust season. Guess I also hide in the shop and drink beers and get a bit OCD with a toothbrush sometimes when I get distracted from home projects. The only changes from good to bad have been plant fibers getting spooled under jockey dust cover and seeds getting wedged into cassette and flexing it temporarily bent. Dumb stuff like backass quicklink and unthreading b tension or cable housing getting yanked to bad geometry.

    Anyway, I believe we ride similar terrain, something’s off and I don’t think pushing more watts is it. I think Shimano overhyped the just mash on it Hyperglide+ thing. Maybe it works so good then eats itself alive? It helps me out of a jam, but I need to consciously force my finger and legs to push hard at the same time. I’m a half stroker and still slightly clutch the legs when I shift, is that old school?

    I still think something other than the aluminum rings is the problem, if you get it figured out then a new cassette should last longer, a new one might just hide the problem and do the same thing down the road.
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    So the world is filled with tubular entities. Food goes in one end and shit comes out the other. Sperm goes in and babies come out.

  2. #5502
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    My commuter bike has Magura MT5e brakes. Pads are getting thin. Availabe pads are jagwire with 4 individual pads. On the bike are original magura pads on on each side. Jagwire pads are $11. Anyone used jagwire pads in thier 4 piston maguras?
    You are what you eat.
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  3. #5503
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meconium View Post
    I took a closer look at my XTR that is just shy of 1000 miles, yours looks way more jacked.
    Derailleur has same miles with some rock hits, crashes, and a bunch of getting hung up on bush. It has more “float” then new but shifts the same as day one. All I do is keep things relatively clean, quick moondust mist off after every ride and then spin chain through WD40 rag and apply whatever chain lube before every ride in dust season. Guess I also hide in the shop and drink beers and get a bit OCD with a toothbrush sometimes when I get distracted from home projects. The only changes from good to bad have been plant fibers getting spooled under jockey dust cover and seeds getting wedged into cassette and flexing it temporarily bent. Dumb stuff like backass quicklink and unthreading b tension or cable housing getting yanked to bad geometry.

    Anyway, I believe we ride similar terrain, something’s off and I don’t think pushing more watts is it. I think Shimano overhyped the just mash on it Hyperglide+ thing. Maybe it works so good then eats itself alive? It helps me out of a jam, but I need to consciously force my finger and legs to push hard at the same time. I’m a half stroker and still slightly clutch the legs when I shift, is that old school?

    I still think something other than the aluminum rings is the problem, if you get it figured out then a new cassette should last longer, a new one might just hide the problem and do the same thing down the road.
    Interesting, thanks for the pic!
    The ramp-up teeth on the 2nd and 3rd alu sprockets don't look much better than mine and show a ton of wear compared to the steel teeth lower down the cassette. The big difference is with the first tooth to fully engage the chain after a shift (the one directly left of the ramp up tooth). Yours are barely worn, mine are trashed. The wear on my cassette extends to the next 3 or 4 teeth whereas on yours the rest of the teeth look new. It looks like when I shift the chain is sitting weird on 3 or 4 teeth and wears them off while sliding into place while on yours the only teeth that are wearing are the 2 that are supposed to be involved in the shift. My cassette actually has 1200 miles on it, not significantly more than yours, and my maintenance program is very similar to yours, wipe chain after every ride (no WD though, just a rag) then lube with a good scrubbing every couple of weeks.
    Maybe my derailleur is slightly more fucked than yours and when combined with a mildly worn cassette it's trashing the teeth super fast? The 2nd sprocket is definitely where I spend most of my time but I shift A LOT and it makes sense it's taking a beating. I never relax on pedaling while shifting either which is something I should go back to doing...

    I checked the chainline yesterday, it's a hair under 52mm, perfect in theory for 12sp XT so that doesn't seem to be the problem. I can still bias things a bit with shim so the chainline is slightly better for the big cogs but at this point I'm going to test a new derailleur and see what happens. It's cheaper than a new cassette and if the shifting improves it will confirm that the derailleur is guilty.
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  4. #5504
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    FYI, here's a photo of my XTR cassette at 400 miles that Shimano replaced under warranty. Looks like a similar wear pattern (all of the ramp teeth on the aluminum cogs wear extremely quickly more or less simultaneously).

    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #5505
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    Damn, 400 miles?? That's nuts.
    All-steel Deore cassette here I come. I'd buy a Garbaruk one as it's all steel except for the big sprocket and weighs less than XTR but the ridiculous ramping between the big sprockets is a no go for me, it's as bad as on a SRAM cassette...
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  6. #5506
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    I wore out the shift ramps on a 12 speed XT cassette after about 1000 miles. I went to an SLX due to all but the 51t rings being steel then bent the fuck out of the aluminum granny gear after just a few riders.

    The solution now is running an all steel Deore 12 speed cassette and it’s been flawless all season. XT shifter + XT derailleur + Deore cassette is a bomber 12 speed set up.


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  7. #5507
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    Another day on TGR another example on how Shimano mountain bike parts are garbage....

  8. #5508
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    I actually don’t think it’s a problem, notice no change from new and I don’t pussy shift every shift. Mostly just when grinding up and it’s just like ¼ crank turn of slightly less power that is instinctually stuck with me forever. I’m guessing 2000-3000 miles life span no problem(?)
    So the world is filled with tubular entities. Food goes in one end and shit comes out the other. Sperm goes in and babies come out.

  9. #5509
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    Is there any reason I shouldn't buy an apparently very lightly used Revved Megatrail frame? I'm currently on a v2 alloy Megatrail and have had my eye out for a Revved frame for a bit. My whole build kit will swap right over. It's listed for $1850 which seems like a great deal in the current market. From the ad:

    "Front triangle, 4 months old, only a few rides on it since replaced. Chainstay brand new. Includes new hardware, custom fitted seatpost collar, extra tiger decals, even for the other chainstay types (except Gnarvana), frame bag with tiger stripes, GG stickers, bottle cage, and extra derailleur hanger screw."


    Sounds like a warranty replacement. I have a question into the seller regarding what happened that caused GG to warranty it. I was planning on upgrading bikes next year, but the price inflation that has happened recently has made that financially troublesome. If I got a new bike I was probably going to go 29, but since it's a GG I could always convert it to a Smash or MegaSmash later on. MegaSmash would be stupid easy to do.

  10. #5510
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    $1850 used without shock. $2195 with shock for new?

    You gonna pay extra for some ugly tiger stickers?

  11. #5511
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    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    $1850 used without shock. $2195 with shock for new?

    You gonna pay extra for some ugly tiger stickers?
    $2195 is new but no shock. $2425 with the cheapest shock option.

  12. #5512
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    $2195 is new but no shock. $2425 with the cheapest shock option.
    Exactly, and based on the pics the "used" part appears to be a mere technicality. The new price also will include 7% sales tax. The stickers are an odd and ugly choice, but that's easily remedied.
    Last edited by Dantheman; 07-28-2021 at 06:12 PM.

  13. #5513
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    They had an issue with the chainstay pivot threads stripping, and have replaced them under warranty as needed. I had that happen on mine, and no issues since then. The replacement stay threading is more pronounced and I'm not worried about it happening again.

    I'm sure the bike's in great condition. The seller doesn't seem like a very aggressive rider based on what she posts on MTBR.

    From her ad there, she said she'll include the short headset cup if you want to run it as a MegaSmash aka Megatrail MX. That's all that's needed to convert aside from a 29er fork & wheel.

  14. #5514
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    $2195 is new but no shock. $2425 with the cheapest shock option.
    Ah didn't notice that.

  15. #5515
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    They had an issue with the chainstay pivot threads stripping, and have replaced them under warranty as needed. I had that happen on mine, and no issues since then. The replacement stay threading is more pronounced and I'm not worried about it happening again.

    I'm sure the bike's in great condition. The seller doesn't seem like a very aggressive rider based on what she posts on MTBR.
    Excellent info, thanks.

  16. #5516
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    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    Another day on TGR another example on how Shimano mountain bike parts are garbage....
    Pick a brand, be a fucking twat about it? If I hadn't dropped my GX drivetrain in the trash then burned that trashcan to the fucking ground this thread would be twice as long and half the posts would be about how much I fucking hate SRAM.
    I'd rather swap XT cassettes every 200 miles than deal with their shit.
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  17. #5517
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Pick a brand, be a fucking twat about it? If I hadn't dropped my GX drivetrain in the trash then burned that trashcan to the fucking ground this thread would be twice as long and half the posts would be about how much I fucking hate SRAM.
    I'd rather swap XT cassettes every 200 miles than deal with their shit.
    Hold on guys, I think I need to tighten my b-screw again.

  18. #5518
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowaddict91 View Post
    Hold on guys, I think I need to tighten my b-screw again.
    I need to lube my clutch.

  19. #5519
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowaddict91 View Post
    Hold on guys, I think I need to tighten my b-screw again.
    Dude gets heated about a GX drivetrain? Bro you might as well drive a base model Corolla with that cheap shit.

  20. #5520
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    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    Dude gets heated about a GX drivetrain? Bro you might as well drive a base model Corolla with that cheap shit.
    I used to drive a Corolla Tercel. Great car. Very reliable.


  21. #5521
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    Quote Originally Posted by skaredshtles View Post
    I used to drive a Corolla Tercel. Great car. Very reliable.

    But did the brakes have a wandering bite point?

  22. #5522
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    Question: those of you who frequent the “bring back pics” thread know, I was in a SERIOUS wreck….spent almost 8 days in hospital. I hit a pothole and went down. I was going downhill, so prolly around 35mph (this the reason for the body damage).

    Anyways, I was riding my trusty Cervelo S-2. Carbon frame and fork w/ carbon steerer tube. There doesn’t appear to be any damage to the frame/fork aside from a couple of scratches. No signs of a crack anywhere.

    Despite that, I’m a little skittish about hopping back on after such a massive crash. Is there something I should be doing or some method of checking that I should be using (aside from my flashlight and glasses approach)?

    Honestly, I’d just like to get a new bike, but I don’t have that kind of scratch layin around right now.

    Thoughts?


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    It makes perfect sense...until you think about it.

    I suspect there's logic behind the madness, but I'm too dumb to see it.

  23. #5523
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    So, fat ass, like DD or DH casings
    ……… casings
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    So the world is filled with tubular entities. Food goes in one end and shit comes out the other. Sperm goes in and babies come out.

  24. #5524
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    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    Dude gets heated about a GX drivetrain? Bro you might as well drive a base model Corolla with that cheap shit.
    you know brands are spec'in GX on $6000+ bikes, right? I mean, it is fucking shit, but it's expensive fucking shit.

  25. #5525
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    Quote Originally Posted by smartyiak View Post
    Question: those of you who frequent the “bring back pics” thread know, I was in a SERIOUS wreck….spent almost 8 days in hospital. I hit a pothole and went down. I was going downhill, so prolly around 35mph (this the reason for the body damage).

    Anyways, I was riding my trusty Cervelo S-2. Carbon frame and fork w/ carbon steerer tube. There doesn’t appear to be any damage to the frame/fork aside from a couple of scratches. No signs of a crack anywhere.

    Despite that, I’m a little skittish about hopping back on after such a massive crash. Is there something I should be doing or some method of checking that I should be using (aside from my flashlight and glasses approach)?

    Honestly, I’d just like to get a new bike, but I don’t have that kind of scratch layin around right now.
    Sell it and start mountain biking?

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