Page 218 of 263 FirstFirst ... 213 214 215 216 217 218 219 220 221 222 223 ... LastLast
Results 5,426 to 5,450 of 6568

Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #5426
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    in the brew room
    Posts
    1,998
    Quote Originally Posted by GeorgiaSnow View Post
    I learned the hard way with this. Setup one of my little rippers tubeless and he had the front tire burp in the middle of a turn. Nasty spill. In my head the math was “he doesn’t weigh much + he doesn’t go that fast = he can run really low pressure to get a softer ride”. That math failed to account for several strips of gorilla tape making a cheap rim tubeless means that sucker will burp pretty easily. He is tough and wasn’t seriously hurt but I check that pressure pretty regularly now.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    this is my fear. but now my little ripper goes bigger than me so a tire failure could be pretty ugly. both tires seem to be holding but am a little wary still.

  2. #5427
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    In a van... down by the river
    Posts
    8,550
    Quote Originally Posted by criscam View Post
    this is my fear. but now my little ripper goes bigger than me so a tire failure could be pretty ugly. both tires seem to be holding but am a little wary still.
    Was he flatting tubes regularly? Maybe get some of those DH-style tubes?

  3. #5428
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    in the trench
    Posts
    13,663
    Quote Originally Posted by GeorgiaSnow View Post
    I learned the hard way with this. Setup one of my little rippers tubeless and he had the front tire burp in the middle of a turn. Nasty spill. In my head the math was “he doesn’t weigh much + he doesn’t go that fast = he can run really low pressure to get a softer ride”. That math failed to account for several strips of gorilla tape making a cheap rim tubeless means that sucker will burp pretty easily. He is tough and wasn’t seriously hurt but I check that pressure pretty regularly now.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Ive posted this a couple times but its a great application for this set up. Glue the excess tube to the sidewall as well. You can run it with less air for a kid and he'll never burp it. Im guessing its easier to set up on a kids tire and non tubeless rim



    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  4. #5429
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Can/USA
    Posts
    1,247
    Took a spill with my new magura MT7’s and I snapped the little lever stop, in research apparently doesn’t matter. But now the brake is ultra spongy, pull to the bar with no lock up. Bled today and still no change. Never had Magura’s do anything I should be looking for??


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  5. #5430
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    174
    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    Ive posted this a couple times but its a great application for this set up. Glue the excess tube to the sidewall as well. You can run it with less air for a kid and he'll never burp it. Im guessing its easier to set up on a kids tire and non tubeless rim



    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app
    That does seem like it would work well for kids non tubeless rim. Might switch to that next time the tire needs changing. Right now staying above 20 psi seems to be the ticket. But he’s also not hucking stuff yet.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  6. #5431
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    1,859
    In my opinion if you can get the tire on with leavers the rim needs more tape. When the only option is the Kool stop tire bead jack there's enough tape. That's as burp proof as it gets.

  7. #5432
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    31,227
    However, there certainly can be too much tape!
    Forum Cross Pollinator

  8. #5433
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    in the trench
    Posts
    13,663
    Mich dh 34 or 22 with the wire bead. One strip of tape, hit it lightly with the heat gun and put the tires on by hand. Off and on as many times as you want and that wire bead pops to perfection wverytime. No squirm, no leak. Theyve got some kind of tech with the wire bead happening . Not sure what it is but its reassuring.

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  9. #5434
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Halfway Between the Gutter and the Stars
    Posts
    3,570
    DT Swiss hub question.

    To make a short story long, I smashed my rim on a rock and got a good dent in it. For entertainment I decided to try to straighten it (Sourced new rim at LBS as plan A (You know how hard it is to find a 28hole 29er rim these days?)). I put the pliers to it to straighten it but once straight still had a dent. I rested the rim on the bench and took the hammer to the fucker. So I'm wailing away on the rim and the cassette just falls off. WTF? I looked around and found a spring and a ratchetty like thick washer thing (for lack of the correct terminology). So I put it together, spring, ratchet, ratchet, spring and it seems to work but, really? Is that all there is to this thing? No lock ring, no c clip, nothing to hold it together other than the bike frame squeezing it?
    You are what you eat.
    ---------------------------------------------------
    There's no such thing as bad snow, just shitty skiers.

  10. #5435
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    31,227
    That’s it, just a friction fit. The axle basically holds it all together when on the bike. Sounds nuts, but it is as intended. Make sure you get the reassembly correct, though.
    Forum Cross Pollinator

  11. #5436
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    san diego
    Posts
    2,683
    Haha, I landed in Denver 2 wks ago and was assembling my bike in the baggage area. Can't recall what exactly happened but as I was monkeying with the rear wheel the eagle cassette slid off the stans neo freehub. Shouldn't be a big deal except the 6 pawls have to simultaneously be pressed in to get the cassette back on. I keep a tire repair kit now which includes a small dentist size floss for sewing up slashed sidewalls and was able to wrap a loop of floss around the pawls which was enough to get the cassette back on. Crisis everted a baggage carousel 2. Not a fan of the friction fit cassette. I think DT swiss is easier to deal with though.

  12. #5437
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    31,227
    Everted.

    Heh.
    Forum Cross Pollinator

  13. #5438
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
    Posts
    9,502

    Ask the experts

    Quote Originally Posted by evdog View Post
    Haha, I landed in Denver 2 wks ago and was assembling my bike in the baggage area. Can't recall what exactly happened but as I was monkeying with the rear wheel the eagle cassette slid off the stans neo freehub. Shouldn't be a big deal except the 6 pawls have to simultaneously be pressed in to get the cassette back on. I keep a tire repair kit now which includes a small dentist size floss for sewing up slashed sidewalls and was able to wrap a loop of floss around the pawls which was enough to get the cassette back on. Crisis everted a baggage carousel 2. Not a fan of the friction fit cassette. I think DT swiss is easier to deal with though.
    Did you try spinning the freehub as you gentlyish pushed down? That’s always worked for me, including the Neo hub that I swapped between XD and MS eleventy times recently.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  14. #5439
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    7,174
    need new rear derailleur on Shimano 11 speed 1x drivetrain

    current one is XT medium cage

    LBS has XT long cage in stock - will I have to adjust my chain length or can I just swap this on and go?

  15. #5440
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    3,652
    Quote Originally Posted by bennymac View Post
    need new rear derailleur on Shimano 11 speed 1x drivetrain
    current one is XT medium cage
    LBS has XT long cage in stock - will I have to adjust my chain length or can I just swap this on and go?
    Chain length can stay the same.
    The official method of chain length measurement from Shimano for 1x11 is to wrap the chain around the biggest cog on the cassette, bypass the derailleur, and wrap it around the chainring and add 2 links.

  16. #5441
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    11,091
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    The official method of chain length measurement from Shimano for 1x11 is to wrap the chain around the biggest cog on the cassette, bypass the derailleur, and wrap it around the chainring and add 2 links.
    *with the suspension compressed.

  17. #5442
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    7,174
    Thanks guys

  18. #5443
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    3,817
    I use a rubber band for the pawl trick

  19. #5444
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    3,652
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    *with the suspension compressed.
    Technically it should be in the suspension stroke where the chain growth is at the greatest length.
    Not all leverage ratios have the greatest chain length at full compression.
    But yes you are correct, and now we are just talking semantics.

  20. #5445
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    3,652
    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    I use a rubber band for the pawl trick
    A rubber band is not ideal when you accidentally pull the freehub off when you already have a 51t cassette mounted.

  21. #5446
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    11,091
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    Technically it should be in the suspension stroke where the chain growth is at the greatest length.
    Not all leverage ratios have the greatest chain length at full compression.
    But yes you are correct, and now we are just talking semantics.
    That's true. But measuring that is a pain in the ass, and holding the suspension at that point while trying to size a chain is an even bigger pain in the ass. It's a whole lot easier to just remove the shock and bottom the bike, and it's close enough to not matter on every bike I've done it on.

  22. #5447
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Chamonix
    Posts
    994
    Howdy experts. I got my Madonna V2.2 last week and it's ridiculously good. Heavy but damn smooth and solid. I thought a Lyrik would be plenty fork for me, as it has been in the past, but I can push the Madonna so much harder than my Patrol so a 180mm Zeb is on its way to me now and I'll cut my losses and sell the Lyrik with just a few rides on it.

    The 205x60mm Super Deluxe Coil feels great but the option to convert it to 205x65mm while keeping the 60mm rocker has got me thinking. This option has been confirmed by Raaw, existing owners, and Pinkbike did their review on the V1 with this configuration, and I measured frame clearance with the shock removed just to be sure, so no issues in theory. Maximum travel effectively bumps up from 160mm to 172mm. I believe the 205x60mm Super Deluxe Coil is identical to the 205x65mm but with an external 5mm spacer on the shaft, but I'll speak to the suspension shop I use.

    With the current setup I did some hucks-to-flat down stairs with various springs and the Reverse Components sag meter to measure travel, and with a 450 spring I have 29% sag and felt a slight bottom-out (3mm stroke unused according to the sag meter, which must just be the bottom-out bumper fully compressed), but don't feel it bottom-out on the trail so I'm good with that springrate. Here's my question: if I converted to 65mm stroke but kept the same spring the bike should feel and perform the same but I'll just have a little extra travel at the deep end in case I ever get a bit too rowdy, plus have the option to put a softer spring on there for more travel if I ever want to, eg. big park days. Right?

    The shock requires considerable disassembly to remove the spacer so I would have my shop do it, so I'm thinking next year when I get it serviced why not just get this done too?

    And some bike porn for you:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	p6pb21009996.jpg 
Views:	94 
Size:	854.4 KB 
ID:	380417

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	p6pb21009997.jpg 
Views:	99 
Size:	721.2 KB 
ID:	380418

  23. #5448
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Hyde Park, Vt
    Posts
    634
    Quote Originally Posted by LC View Post
    Howdy experts. I got my Madonna V2.2 last week and it's ridiculously good. Heavy but damn smooth and solid. I thought a Lyrik would be plenty fork for me, as it has been in the past, but I can push the Madonna so much harder than my Patrol so a 180mm Zeb is on its way to me now and I'll cut my losses and sell the Lyrik with just a few rides on it.

    The 205x60mm Super Deluxe Coil feels great but the option to convert it to 205x65mm while keeping the 60mm rocker has got me thinking. This option has been confirmed by Raaw, existing owners, and Pinkbike did their review on the V1 with this configuration, and I measured frame clearance with the shock removed just to be sure, so no issues in theory. Maximum travel effectively bumps up from 160mm to 172mm. I believe the 205x60mm Super Deluxe Coil is identical to the 205x65mm but with an external 5mm spacer on the shaft, but I'll speak to the suspension shop I use.

    With the current setup I did some hucks-to-flat down stairs with various springs and the Reverse Components sag meter to measure travel, and with a 450 spring I have 29% sag and felt a slight bottom-out (3mm stroke unused according to the sag meter, which must just be the bottom-out bumper fully compressed), but don't feel it bottom-out on the trail so I'm good with that springrate. Here's my question: if I converted to 65mm stroke but kept the same spring the bike should feel and perform the same but I'll just have a little extra travel at the deep end in case I ever get a bit too rowdy, plus have the option to put a softer spring on there for more travel if I ever want to, eg. big park days. Right?

    The shock requires considerable disassembly to remove the spacer so I would have my shop do it, so I'm thinking next year when I get it serviced why not just get this done too?

    And some bike porn for you:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	p6pb21009996.jpg 
Views:	94 
Size:	854.4 KB 
ID:	380417

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	p6pb21009997.jpg 
Views:	99 
Size:	721.2 KB 
ID:	380418
    nice Bike man, I would say that as long as the rear wheel at full compression with a 172mm of travel does hit the frame or seat you would be good to go.

  24. #5449
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    in the trench
    Posts
    13,663
    Murdered !!! Man thats nice

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  25. #5450
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Chamonix
    Posts
    994
    Quote Originally Posted by Bushwacka View Post
    nice Bike man, I would say that as long as the rear wheel at full compression with a 172mm of travel does hit the frame or seat you would be good to go.
    I know that the wheel has clearance, that's not the issue. I'm just wondering if there's any impact of effectively converting the shock to a longer stroke but (most of the time) running a spring that's too stiff to use all of that new stroke. If it'll still ride the same as its current configuration then I don't see any downsides, but I'll have the option to experiment with a softer spring for more travel if I want.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •