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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #6526
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    I'd go #1, with the caveat that it'd be better if you put some smaller, less knobby tires on. But if you don't want to swap them, at least pump them up pretty firm.

  2. #6527
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    Oct 2002
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    ^^Hardtail with the fastest rolling tires you own.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  3. #6528
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    2,149
    Is there going to be much difference between a 31.8 alloy Fatbar and a 35.0 Oneup carbon bar besides weight? I have been using alloy bars since I started.

  4. #6529
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    Oct 2003
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    Agree on bike #1. My 64* HTA HT rides long-and-low jumps great but feels a little weird on steeper jumps, but 66* should ride nicely.

  5. #6530
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    1,925
    Definitely pumped up to max in either scenario. Itís the same bike so not two hardtails, just different wheels sets. Think Iíll go Opt 1 first. Short rear for a 29er end at 420mm so thinking itíll work pretty good.

    Not nearly enough N+1 encouragement as I thought either.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #6531
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTskibum View Post
    Not nearly enough N+1 encouragement as I thought either.
    Well since you asked...

    Dirt jump bikes are pretty cheap, they're not particularly prone to becoming outdated, and they're not maintenance intensive. Buy a dirt jumper now and it'll still be just as good 10 years from now. Even if you don't ride it a ton, it's a nice bike to have in the quiver.

  7. #6532
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    Aug 2002
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    Thanks ToastÖ pretty sure Iíll pull the trigger on something just for the rationale that my kids will be big enough to ride it imminently as well.

    Dark horse option I just pulled together thoughÖ old 70* HTA 29x2.2 fast rolling 2010 Lynskey Pro 29.

  8. #6533
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    ^^^ put a shorter stem and maybe a riser bar on that thing and it'd be an entirely serviceable jumper.

  9. #6534
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    ^^^ put a shorter stem and maybe a riser bar on that thing and it'd be an entirely serviceable jumper.
    Until those 29er Crest rims explode. It was light when it was in the air! And then boom!

  10. #6535
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    1,925

    Ask the experts

    Iím not heavy but the crests are pumping only, no DJ for sure. Will scrounge up a shorter stem for this week if I can find one.

    Was spectating a CX race this afternoon and after a few beers was manual-ing my sons 24ĒÖ pretty sure thereís a DJ in my future.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #6536
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    830
    Rear tire slow air leak. Bad enough to go from 27 psi->14psi over the span of 2 hrs. No tire punctures, good rim. Already tried dumping more sealant in. Playing odds: Bad valve or tape job? If I'm already pulling the valve do I bother re-taping or would a visual inspection suffice?

  12. #6537
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    Dec 2010
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    Spray bottle with soapy water. Stop guessing

  13. #6538
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    I prefer guessing. And I'm guessing bad tape.

  14. #6539
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    Oct 2010
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    1,235

    Ask the experts

    My betís on a valve. Maybe Iím bad at getting valves sealed but Iíve never had a tape leak and always had a valve leak. If you wiggle the valve around a tiny bit or try loosening or tightening the nut on it, itíll make a hiss and confirm it for you. I may start using shoe goo from now to seal the head on as itís been amazing at sealing pinch flats and is super easy to remove if needed

    Or i could ďinvestĒ $50 per valve stem on those fancy onesÖ.

  15. #6540
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    I'm looking for leaks in dry suits but a leak is a leak (?) so I would air up a suit and the best way to find that leak is to hold it up close to my face cuz the face is very sensitive but a spray bottle of water with a squirt of dish soap is next level at finding leaks I would miss without soapy water

    I was recently in the vegy dept at safeway where the stock person is in the way so I said " excuse me , I need to take a leek " so a leek is not always a leak
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  16. #6541
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    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon3 View Post
    My bet’s on a valve. Maybe I’m bad at getting valves sealed but I’ve never had a tape leak and always had a valve leak. If you wiggle the valve around a tiny bit or try loosening or tightening the nut on it, it’ll make a hiss and confirm it for you. I may start using shoe goo from now to seal the head on as it’s been amazing at sealing pinch flats and is super easy to remove if needed

    Or i could “invest” $50 per valve stem on those fancy ones….
    If you take a rubber mallet or a block of wood and tap on the valve (from the inside / tire side of the rim), it'll help seat it. Substantially cuts down on leaky valves.

  17. #6542
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    What's the consensus on generic carbon rigid forks? My commuter has a steel fork that probably weighs 3-4 lbs, so swapping to a carbon one saves 2+ lbs for $100. Some threads on MTBR and Singletracks have good things to say but reviews on Amazon are decidedly mixed, mostly due to QC issues with the caliper mounts.

    Some options I'm considering:
    https://www.amazon.com/Straight-Tape...-38&th=1&psc=1
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/12438757913...3ABFBM2JGcmqlf
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/30310401186...3ABFBMrsfxlqlf
    Last edited by Dantheman; 11-22-2021 at 05:14 PM.

  18. #6543
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    Apr 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    What's the consensus on generic carbon rigid forks? My commuter has a steel fork that probably weighs 3-4 lbs, so swapping to a carbon one saves 2+ lbs for $100. Some threads on MTBR and Singletracks have good things to say but reviews on Amazon are decidedly mixed, mostly due to QC issues with the caliper mounts.

    Some options I'm considering:
    https://www.amazon.com/Straight-Tape...-38&th=1&psc=1
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/12438757913...3ABFBM2JGcmqlf
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/30310401186...3ABFBMrsfxlqlf
    I haven't had any trouble with the one on my Fatbike, but don't know if I'd trust it for continuous road use. The fit and finish isn't great. Face first into the snow @ 10mph would be a bit different than face first into the pavement @40mph.

  19. #6544
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    1,925

    Ask the experts

    Check the Luesher_teknik Instagram page and those are generally big name brands. Generic steel or even ti NBD. But for me I want name brand Carbon if only bc if thereís something really bad happening would be well known enough. Just hopefully not be the first for it to happen to.

    Carbon forks a plenty in my house, including rigid Niner MTB. Donít think Iíd take the risk myself, especially for a commuter where reliability is king.

    YMMV (edit) and Whiskey mentioned down below isnít generic in that sense since itís house brand of QBP(?) compared to the eBay sellers. Know a few people whoíve had good luck w those


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    Last edited by VTskibum; 11-23-2021 at 05:20 AM.

  20. #6545
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    Oct 2005
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    Tahoe-ish
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    I've used a generic version of the Whiskey fork on my SS 29er for years. The carbon steerer seems to be undersized (stem won't tighten enough), but it hasn't killed me. It's way at the bottom of the (long) list of bikes to ride though, so it gets very little use.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  21. #6546
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    830
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    What's the consensus on generic carbon rigid forks? My commuter has a steel fork that probably weighs 3-4 lbs, so swapping to a carbon one saves 2+ lbs for $100. Some threads on MTBR and Singletracks have good things to say but reviews on Amazon are decidedly mixed, mostly due to QC issues with the caliper mounts.

    Some options I'm considering:
    https://www.amazon.com/Straight-Tape...-38&th=1&psc=1
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/12438757913...3ABFBM2JGcmqlf
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/30310401186...3ABFBMrsfxlqlf

    Been running one on my commuter since 2014 I got off of Nashbar. Flawless. Nothing bad at all to say.

  22. #6547
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    Quote Originally Posted by Touring_Sedan View Post
    I haven't had any trouble with the one on my Fatbike, but don't know if I'd trust it for continuous road use. The fit and finish isn't great. Face first into the snow @ 10mph would be a bit different than face first into the pavement @40mph.
    Quote Originally Posted by VTskibum View Post
    Don’t think I’d take the risk myself, especially for a commuter where reliability is king.
    My commute route is pretty flat so I don't go faster than 25 mph often. But, catastrophic fork failure at 25 mph would still be a bad time. My thinking was that since these are intended for MTB they'd be overbuilt for road use and unlikely to spontaneously combust, but maybe I'm wrong there? I put about 2,000 mi/yr on this bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by Huskydoc View Post
    Been running one on my commuter since 2014 I got off of Nashbar. Flawless. Nothing bad at all to say.
    No issues with the caliper mounts being off-spec? A number of people reported being unable to set up the caliper without rubbing.

  23. #6548
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    Apr 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    My commute route is pretty flat so I don't go faster than 25 mph often. But, catastrophic fork failure at 25 mph would still be a bad time. My thinking was that since these are intended for MTB they'd be overbuilt for road use and unlikely to spontaneously combust, but maybe I'm wrong there? I put about 2,000 mi/yr on this bike.



    No issues with the caliper mounts being off-spec? A number of people reported being unable to set up the caliper without rubbing.
    You can justify it all you want, but I wouldn't trust it. All three cheap chinese carbon items I've purchased have failed in different ways. The bottom bracket on my fatbike delaminated from the frame... twice. The carbon fork is fraying around where the inserts for the axle are bonded to the through lowers. The double walled carbon rim cracked through the inner wall. I still don't feel ripped off, I got what I paid for. That being said, I'm too old to fall on pavement and while I'll risk it on the fatty, I wouldn't on the roadie.

  24. #6549
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    Aug 2013
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    An Anheuser-Busch Barley Field
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    Is 3 lbs worth your face?

    Isnít to me..


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  25. #6550
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    Quote Originally Posted by Touring_Sedan View Post
    The carbon fork is fraying around where the inserts for the axle are bonded to the through lowers.
    Yikes. I suppose spending any money to drop weight off this bike is somewhat silly. It has fenders, frame bag, saddle bag and a lock hanging off it at all times.

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