Ask the experts

[homemadesalsa]

Thanks. They mentioned them, but said that over the years they have gotten the most reliable and consistent results from QBP. I didn't even know they did shock service/rebuilds. Had them send it in yesterday. Could be a long 10 days. Luckily I have the small bike to keep me occupied.

The Hub is also a Fox shock service center. Can get them done pretty quickly.

[Huskier]

2015 would be 100 mm spacing, right? Make sure your hub can take boost adapters before proceeding with a new fork.

The original Charger damper had some known reliability issues and it's probably due to be put out to pasture regardless. For a lot less than a new fork you could upgrade your current fork to the Charger 2.1 RCT3 damper (https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...1-a2-2014-2017) and Debonair spring (https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...-29-160mm-27-5). The spring is travel-specific so keep that in mind. Make sure you get the travel needed for A1-A2/2014-2017 27.5" models.

Damn that's a really good point.

[HAB]

Any hub can take boost adapters if you just use the Problem Solvers ones that don't attach to the hub directly. They're mildly annoying but work fine.

What front hub do you have?

[Huskier]

Any hub can take boost adapters if you just use the Problem Solvers ones that don't attach to the hub directly. They're mildly annoying but work fine.

What front hub do you have?

SRAM MTH 716

[nickwm21]

2015 Pike --> 2021 Fox 36 in Grip2 trim: Worth it? The only gripes I have right now are a little sticktion and bob on coarse low speed tech and not being able to ratchet up compression for fear of losing high speed plushness/performance. I'm eying the dedicated hsc/lsc circuits + Kashima as the possible answer. That or not suck so bad.

Does having those dedicated circuits make a difference?

You might be able to buy a new damper with more knobs for that Pike and spend only $200, not $1000….

The 36 Grip2 is money though and you would be able to get the performance you’re looking for….


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[meepmoop24]

2015 would be 100 mm spacing, right? Make sure your hub can take boost adapters before proceeding with a new fork.

The original Charger damper had some known reliability issues and it's probably due to be put out to pasture regardless. For a lot less than a new fork you could upgrade your current fork to the Charger 2.1 RCT3 damper (https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...1-a2-2014-2017) and Debonair spring (https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...-29-160mm-27-5). The spring is travel-specific so keep that in mind. Make sure you get the travel needed for A1-A2/2014-2017 27.5" models.

I just put the new Debonair C1 spring in my Pike and it's a pretty noticeable difference. Doesn't bob nearly as much and feels much more supportive. Well worth the $40 I spent on it. I have a 2018 Pike so it's already the Charger 2 damper, but with the spring I'm super happy with my fork.

[HAB]

SRAM MTH 716

I think that means you're stuck with the washer style boost adapter (or a new hub/wheel), but that's not the end of the world. Just makes putting the wheel on a little more fiddly, but unless you're doing that daily to mount the bike to a rack or fit it in a vehicle it's no biggie.

A newer Grip2 36 (especially if it's a 2021+ with the latest VVC version of the damper) is going to be a huge improvement over your Pike. As noted above, you could also upgrade that fork to a newer Charger 2.1 damper and make a substantial improvement for a lot less money than a new fork.

[NT]

One of the pistons in my 4 piston XT 8120 brakes is stuck. I can push the other three in easily. Tried with the system open at the lever port to no avail. Pumping the lever, all 4 pistons will move in and retract back normally. I just can't push that one piston in any further. Any ideas?

Update: I tried cleaning the sides of the stuck piston to no avail. Bike shop pushed it all the way out and found that the backside of it was crumbling apart. They called Shimano who apparently said something along the lines of "it did what?!" and warrantied it. New caliper showed up a couple days ago.

[jm2e]

Pretty cool they're replacing it. How old? OEM from a bike or upgrade? Inquiring minds want to know.

FWIW, I'm super jealous you've got a LBS that's actually helpful with warranty stuff. I get in an argument with the "warranty" guy at my shop every time. Him: "I'm pretty sure they won't". Me "But that's not what it says on their website". Him "I think that only applies to the upgraded models." Me. "All I'm asking is that you ask them rather than dismissing it". Him "I'm pretty sure I've seen this before". Me "I'm going home to complain to my internet friends"

[simple]

Fuck your shop guy. Guess he doesn't want to earn that $14 an hour to work on oversized kids toys.

[NT]

Brake was bought separately for a build and I had the receipt (from an online retailer). Received it in April of this year so only 4 months old. Yeah, I was impressed by the service, but I did mention to them that Shimano had listed their shop as a Shimano service center so perhaps that helped avoid a brush off.

[Roxtar]

Shimano really does offer tremendous customer service. They have always been my favorite company to deal with.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Am I simply asking for too much here? The upgraditis is hitting pretty bad right now.

I have a 2021 SB115 that I fucking love. It FEELS really fast. It pedals amazingly. Factory 34 in the front at 130mm.

I am thinking about racing it in the next two enduros which are pedally (Helena and Ashland). I rode it today in Helena. It FEELS fucking really fast, but I have the air up on the 34 to not blow through the travel. A few pounds makes a difference between bottom out and not using all the travel. No spacers (do they even make spaces for a 34?).

Only other chance I have made from stock T1 build is OneUp bar and DD casing Assguy in the back. Still have 2.5 Exo DHf in the front. The Exo is scary, but somehow I haven't shredded it yet.

I am close on times on many of the segments I have ridden a lot on my SB150.

I think I can gain the difference by putting a real fork (36) on the front and ideally wider rims to gain grip. The bike pedals faster, but the top end speed is slightly less. I could gain some traction with a better fork and real wheels/tires.....and still be around 31/32 pounds.

It's just so damn nice pedaling a 29# bike up the hill instead of a 37# race hog.


Or I could not be a psycho and just race my race bike like a normal dental hygienist.

[rideit]

Put a teeny-weenie coil over on it!

[XXX-er]

did you ask a question in that last Diarrhea of the mouth episode ?

[donutlynx]

Am I simply asking for too much here? The upgraditis is hitting pretty bad right now.

I have a 2021 SB115 that I fucking love. It FEELS really fast. It pedals amazingly. Factory 34 in the front at 130mm.

I am thinking about racing it in the next two enduros which are pedally (Helena and Ashland). I rode it today in Helena. It FEELS fucking really fast, but I have the air up on the 34 to not blow through the travel. A few pounds makes a difference between bottom out and not using all the travel. No spacers (do they even make spaces for a 34?).

Only other chance I have made from stock T1 build is OneUp bar and DD casing Assguy in the back. Still have 2.5 Exo DHf in the front. The Exo is scary, but somehow I haven't shredded it yet.

I am close on times on many of the segments I have ridden a lot on my SB150.

I think I can gain the difference by putting a real fork (36) on the front and ideally wider rims to gain grip. The bike pedals faster, but the top end speed is slightly less. I could gain some traction with a better fork and real wheels/tires.....and still be around 31/32 pounds.

It's just so damn nice pedaling a 29# bike up the hill instead of a 37# race hog.


Or I could not be a psycho and just race my race bike like a normal dental hygienist.

It should be the faster bike here in Ashland (the 115), IMO. I wouldn't hesitate to race it in the enduro! (even with the EXO casing in the front - I run them front and rear 2.3/2.3 w/ no issues)

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

did you ask a question in that last Diarrhea of the mouth episode ?

No, I don't think I did.

[Kopi_Red]

WRG get a RUNT for your 34. That'll help with midstroke support and bottom out resistance.

[bennymac]

I have the one up stem (that allows you to carry their multitool without doing anything to the fork steerer) - which has a super finicky way of being set up.

No matter how hard I try i keep ending up with a tiny bit of movement in the headset.

Am I gonna die riding this bike down steep rocky technical terrain? I’m a long ways away from any bike shop or mechanic right now.

(And yes - I plan on ditching this stem for a normal one)

[rideit]

I have had success pre-loading the stem/bottom of the steer tube with one of these on an application without a star nut. Not sure it will work for your application, but it’s worth a shot.

[bennymac]

Gotcha that makes sense. Maybe I’ll try with some ski straps

Edit found a clamp like you posted will try it

Edit 2: that worked - enduro race saved! I owe you some beer.

[El Chupacabra]

I have had success pre-loading the stem/bottom of the steer tube with one of these on an application without a star nut. Not sure it will work for your application, but it’s worth a shot.

I bet some weight weenies use this technique instead of using a star nut.

[snowaddict91]

WRG get a RUNT for your 34. That'll help with midstroke support and bottom out resistance.

I haven't ran one, but there are many positive reviews in this thread. I think that's what I would try. I kind of want one for my 36, though I've been pretty happy with it performance wise since adding the MRP ramp control.

Who’s using a Runt?
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...d.php?t=339968

[toast2266]

Am I simply asking for too much here? The upgraditis is hitting pretty bad right now.

I have a 2021 SB115 that I fucking love. It FEELS really fast. It pedals amazingly. Factory 34 in the front at 130mm.

I am thinking about racing it in the next two enduros which are pedally (Helena and Ashland). I rode it today in Helena. It FEELS fucking really fast, but I have the air up on the 34 to not blow through the travel. A few pounds makes a difference between bottom out and not using all the travel. No spacers (do they even make spaces for a 34?).

Only other chance I have made from stock T1 build is OneUp bar and DD casing Assguy in the back. Still have 2.5 Exo DHf in the front. The Exo is scary, but somehow I haven't shredded it yet.

I am close on times on many of the segments I have ridden a lot on my SB150.

I think I can gain the difference by putting a real fork (36) on the front and ideally wider rims to gain grip. The bike pedals faster, but the top end speed is slightly less. I could gain some traction with a better fork and real wheels/tires.....and still be around 31/32 pounds.

It's just so damn nice pedaling a 29# bike up the hill instead of a 37# race hog.


Or I could not be a psycho and just race my race bike like a normal dental hygienist.

They definitely make volume reducers for the 34. I forget how many I have in mine, but it's more than zero. I've added more of them when I needed the fork to be a little more smashy to good effect.

[g_man80]

Any reason to be concerned with these sidewall cracks on this new Butcher tire? It goes around the entire tire and on both sides. I’m thinking it’s just cosmetic, but can say I’ve seen this on a new tire. The Eliminator to go with it is fine. I may wait to mount it and inquire with the local S dealer on Monday.