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Thread: Ask the experts
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10-14-2021, 05:53 PM #6301
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10-14-2021, 05:56 PM #6302
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10-14-2021, 05:59 PM #6303
Ya that saddle is an oval 7x9, it should work. Keep struggling with it.
In all my years as a bike mechanic, I still struggle to find an easy or elegant way to mount a saddle in the seat post rails. I find it the most awkward thing ever, to the point where I'm actually self conscious if a customer is watching me mount a saddle, I fell that I look like I don't have a clue about being a bike mechanic.
On a better note I just mounted 2 different saddles on the new FOX/RaceFace heads, which are super easy.
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10-14-2021, 06:01 PM #6304
ahh ok well I’m glad it isn’t just me lol. to the garage, thanks!
it "fits" but there's a small asymmetry in the spacing between the clamps and the rails... the screw-side clamp is flush to the rail, and the other side has maybe 2mm of space. the top edge of the clamp is still holding the saddle in place, doesn't feel like it's going anywhere, but it's kinda sketching me out. fine, or I'm gunna die?Last edited by mall walker; 10-14-2021 at 06:41 PM.
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10-14-2021, 06:25 PM #6305
btw whoever all recommended the oneup pump + EDC, thanks this thing is great. the EDC + my old multitool and there’s not a thing on my bike I can’t adjust in the moment.
be honest though who has lost the EDC by putting the pump on with that side down…? I will fuck this up some day and be sad
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10-14-2021, 07:37 PM #6306
Haha. Sweet, it’s not just me. For years I always tried to minimally loosen the clamps and monkey hump the saddle in, finally giving up and taking everything apart. Now I pretty much just start by taking the clamp pretty almost completely apart then Pat myself on the back…although now and then, I’m still like, “I got this one…” and commence unsuccessful monkey humping
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10-14-2021, 07:49 PM #6307
Ask the experts
I also fully disassemble the clamps now. My only “expert tip” is to add grease to the to the nuts/washers so they stay in place while lining up the bolts from below the clamp. You can usually get a few threads engaged without trying to squeeze your finger above the rail to hold down the nuts.
Also the complete disassembly allows me to clean the rails, clamps and all hardware. 75% of the guys reporting “bottom bracket” creaks, it’s actually the saddle/seat clamp interface.
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10-14-2021, 08:12 PM #6308
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10-14-2021, 08:31 PM #6309one of those sickos
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I also find myself humbled by seatpost clamps on occasion. The best is the kind that has a bolt facing up--fine if you have a saddle with a cutout but woe betide those without.
Honestly some of the easiest ones I've used have been cheap Chinese ones with 2 bolts. Why do others keep trying to reinvent the wheel?
Now that the GF and I have our preferred saddles on all of our bikes (9 total), I hope to be free from this torment for the time being.ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.
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10-14-2021, 09:06 PM #6310
yeah the reverb axs one is baffling to me. I like the 1 vertical bolt; almost idiot proof (me proof). 2 vertical bolts is an order of magnitude harder but I can manage it (the PNW droppers). but the side clamp style, oof… I’m apparently far too stupid for this.
I felt good about myself for undoing/redoing the bar wrap to remove the old cabled dropper and lever, and rewrapping it, with the gel pad under there, all that. how hard can it be to put the fucking seat on, I thought to myself. too hard for the likes of me, apparently.
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10-14-2021, 09:33 PM #6311
When I worked in a shop, usually if a seat was creaking it was because the bolt on a single bolt seatpost clamp was cracked and about to snap, so not a fan of that design, but certainly easy to install the saddle on.
Two bolt clamps where one of the holes is slotted can often be installed without taking bolts fully out.
Worst I’ve come across is the old USE Alien that’s still on my road bike. Pain to install initially, and continues being a pain every time you want to adjust saddle position.
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10-14-2021, 09:52 PM #6312
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10-15-2021, 07:13 AM #6313Not a skibum
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Definitely favor 2 bolts as mentioned, set the front or rear just ever so slightly high and tighten down the other to perfection.
Bought a TransX for my hardtail that had T30 hardware? What a f'ing terrible idea, who of us has a torx, much less a T30 on their multi-tool? Fine for the workshop, but have definitely had a seatpost slip a bit after first few rides and/or lazy wrenching in the first place. Had to ride home mostly standing as I couldn't tighten it. Probably could have crammed a 4/5mm in was close enough to just ride home for proper tool
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10-15-2021, 09:15 AM #6314
Just googled that new Fox clamp. FINALLY someone actually improves that connection….
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10-15-2021, 12:18 PM #6315Registered User
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Be careful with that. On my road bike (2012 Trek Madone 5.9) has a proprietary Trek seatpost (slides onto the *outside* of the seat tube - go figure). It came with a standard-seat-rail clamp. I got a Fizik seat with carbon rails, which are some kind of oval (dunno what size), significantly different size/shape than standard metal rails. The owners manual was adamant that if using carbon rails, I would need to order different clamp parts, or risk breaking the carbon rails. Which could suck (possible cycle-sodomy!)
The shop guys here seem to know what they're talking about, but your description does make it sound sketchy.
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10-15-2021, 12:27 PM #6316
I may just shamefully ask my LBS to screw the stupid thing on properly
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10-15-2021, 12:47 PM #6317Not a skibum
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Been there on the shameful approach. I took my cross/gravel bike into shop as brake caliper bolt was stuck in my carbon frame, didn’t want to botch that. Meanwhile was mortified w my bar wrap job with the really thick lizard skin tape, that’s notoriously PITA to get right. Excuses galore as I dropped it off and mechs took pity on me agreeing with this tape being challenging.
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10-15-2021, 12:57 PM #6318
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10-15-2021, 01:16 PM #6319
3:15 is where saddle install starts. This link starts at 3:15
https://youtu.be/K0-UDPA0c-0?t=195
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10-15-2021, 02:46 PM #6320one of those sickos
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I have an Emonda with the same seatmast design. Its side clamping style definitely needs to fit the profile of the rails. I have the carbon specific clamp for my S-Works Romin, and it's a way different shape. Clamping down hard on oval carbon rails with the round profile clamp will crush them and, of course, YER GUNNA DIE!
Saddle clamps that support the rails from below and clamp from above can be used with carbon rails without concern.
The Reverb appears to have a side clamp that can move up and down to accommodate oval rails and has a separate screw for tilt. Very clever. It seems like it should work with the saddle in question, but I agree that the photos don't look right.ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.
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10-15-2021, 06:54 PM #6321
can anyone give me a "yer NOT gunna die" on this? I mean it's pretty close right
the reverb axs is so nice... action is perfect, 150mm is perfect, no cables... but I am SO LAZY and don't want to swap saddles or get help or any other thing.
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10-15-2021, 08:28 PM #6322Registered User
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You can do 99 things for your bike, and all it'll remember is the one thing you didn't do.
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10-17-2021, 10:15 PM #6323Registered User
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@mall walker: naturally I did not read the owner’s manual at all, whilst putting my Mad One together. I only consulted the online directions when the carbon rails just did not look right in the stock clamp (like you!).
Listen to your instincts and get the last word from the factory, before risking expensive parts and/or your tender arse.
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10-18-2021, 07:59 PM #6324
Rockshox Recon (2018 model) tops-out with clunk every time you lift up hard on handlebars .i.e. doing a jump or wheelie, but works well otherwise.
Took the kids bike in for some overhaul and ordered the suspension service which was $100 plus $16 in parts for the dust seal. I called the shop same day I dropped it off as I recalled my kids main complaint was the top out and mentioned that.
Picked bike up today and notice the rear brake which I asked them to bleed was still squishy and that was the main reason I asked for it to be bled. They were able to fix that on the spot by burping it, but I didn't really check the fork top out issue specifically but saw that it was operating well otherwise with new oil and dust seals.
Do I need to take it back and make heads roll or is that a hard thing to diagnose / fix for the $100 service charge. Or do I throw the whole thing in a dumpster and buy the kid a Zeb or 38? To be fair they also replaced a dropper post / cable with no service charge.
I've tried slowing rebound and cycling the fork to maybe get the correct negative pressure???
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10-19-2021, 03:03 PM #6325Registered User
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