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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #8651
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    Quote Originally Posted by summit View Post
    Everything involved is MS, both wheelsets/hubs and the cassette and lockring.

    That MS lockring is nuts, (before this bike I only had SRAM) it is shallow and has tiny threads... that combined with the non-one-piece spider for Shimano and the ease with which you can think you seated the 10T by having it rotated about 120deg, but its actually sitting cockeye led me to partially stripping the lockring. Apparently this is a common mistake even for experienced wrenches (I'm not). Luckily I realized it before the lockring was destroyed (nobody has replacements), rectified the 10T placement to flush, and put the ring back on. At first I thought this was the issue, but I don't think that is the issue, and it certainly wouldn't explain the apparent shifting of the 51 entire cassette outboard (requiring high limit and low limit adjust).
    From the last couple posts, it sounds to me like the hub was originally 36t XD, the wheel manufacturer converted it to 54t MS to fill your order, but they didn't swap the XD end cap for an MS one, and the MS lockring is bottoming out on it. I bet if you swap the drive side end cap for an MS one, it'll solve your problems.

  2. #8652
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    Oct 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    From the last couple posts, it sounds to me like the hub was originally 36t XD, the wheel manufacturer converted it to 54t MS to fill your order, but they didn't swap the XD end cap for an MS one, and the MS lockring is bottoming out on it. I bet if you swap the drive side end cap for an MS one, it'll solve your problems.
    Got it! That makes sense! I'll try it!
    Quote Originally Posted by blurred
    skiing is hiking all day so that you can ski on shitty gear for 5 minutes.

  3. #8653
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    You know what else causes the problems I had? Not installing the drive side spacer at all because it was in the wheel box, and then tightening the axle until the stay touches the lockring causing friction and shifting everything outboard vs the mech position.

    Thanks all for giving me the undeserved credit of assuming I wouldn't make such a dumb move and fail to recognize it. My only defense is that I did it at midnight.
    Last edited by summit; 08-10-2022 at 04:56 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by blurred
    skiing is hiking all day so that you can ski on shitty gear for 5 minutes.

  4. #8654
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    Aug 2002
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    So horizontal drop outs (DJ) are dumb. I have a Hadley bolt on axle but it keeps slipping. This is on a DT-Swiss 350, 135x10mm thru axle.

    Wondering if a DT-Swiss RWS or other axle will be more secure?


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  5. #8655
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTskibum View Post
    So horizontal drop outs (DJ) are dumb. I have a Hadley bolt on axle but it keeps slipping. This is on a DT-Swiss 350, 135x10mm thru axle.

    Wondering if a DT-Swiss RWS or other axle will be more secure?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Some bmx chain tensioners would probably solve your problem for pretty cheap.

  6. #8656
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    Ask the experts

    Ah shoulda added that they conflict w my Hadley axle, as theyíre too wide so donít have enough threads and also take same slot in horizontal drop.


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  7. #8657
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTskibum View Post
    Ah shoulda added that they conflict w my Hadley axle, as they’re too wide so don’t have enough threads and also take same slot in horizontal drop.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Pics?

    I’m thinking you have this?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  8. #8658
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    Ask the experts

    Shoulda taken some and is late, but the Hadley non drive side has a notch that fits in the horizontal drop. Same is on the drive and non drive of bmx tugs, which overlap. So tugs wonít work w my axle, hence curious if the RWS or if there are other better options.

    The Hadley doesnít have any kind of gnarled surface to adhere to horizontal drop as itís perfectly smooth.

    Edit - yep thatís what Iím running, tried taking the spacer out but still not wide enough w chain tugs.

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  9. #8659
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    Makes sense, maybe try to find an old saint/zee 10mm thru axle or just source a solid chromoly hub axle and use that as a thru axle. Either way you need to make it so you can use a tensioner if you are puting any sort of power down.
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  10. #8660
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    Yeah, those bolt on thru axle inserts don't actually generate much clamping force. Iirc, a decent quick release actually clamps harder.

    Can you grind off the nubs that prevent you from using a tensioner?

  11. #8661
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    Just bought a saint axle off eBay, will give that a go alongside chain tugs. Hopefully solves the issue, frustrating


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  12. #8662
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    Jan 2009
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    EXT Storia question for the experts, likely applicable to most coil shocks.

    Had my Gnarvana in the stand the other day and realized that the spring had a tiny bit of play (maybe 0.5 mm) when the rear wheel wasn't on the ground. I tightened the preload collar a bit so I could still spin the spring by hand but couldn't feel any fore-aft motion at all. EXT recommends 1 mm of preload, I doubt I got the spring to compress that much. When I got on the bike today it felt a bit better, I guess springier would be the word, and definitely stiffer. The issue though was the loud topout clank I got anytime the shock reached full extension. Given the fact that I move the rear wheel constantly and it spends a ton of time off the ground, the racket was quite annoying. I added a bit of rebound damping but it didn't quiet things down much. Anyone dealing with this on EXT shocks? People complain that they're super loud, which they are. I really don't mind the slurping noise coming from the damper but that metal-on-metal clank is a bit cringe-inducing when it happens at speed and makes you wonder if the shock is going to self destruct...
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  13. #8663
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    Feb 2014
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    NorCal coast
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    That sounds wrong. I've had my Storia about 2 years and don't get that. I think you're possibly still missing some preload. I like to do that with the shock off the bike. I get it until I can no longer pull the spring away from the collar by hand, then add 1 more complete revolution.

  14. #8664
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    That sounds wrong. I've had my Storia about 2 years and don't get that. I think you're possibly still missing some preload. I like to do that with the shock off the bike. I get it until I can no longer pull the spring away from the collar by hand, then add 1 more complete revolution.
    Wait, missing preload? I'd think the more preload on the shock the harder it will push when fully unloaded and the more you'd get the clank when it fully extends no? I'll try tonight and see if it makes a difference, it's counterintuitive to me but it's my first coil so I'm not exactly experienced...
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  15. #8665
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    352
    Worst case, swing by EXT USA/ Suspension Syndicate, theyíre in SLC. Iím sure theyíd sort you out. My Storia does not have any top out noise that Iíve noticed.

  16. #8666
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    Feb 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Wait, missing preload? I'd think the more preload on the shock the harder it will push when fully unloaded and the more you'd get the clank when it fully extends no? I'll try tonight and see if it makes a difference, it's counterintuitive to me but it's my first coil so I'm not exactly experienced...
    The clank is probably from free space between the spring and the preload collar.

  17. #8667
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Wait, missing preload? I'd think the more preload on the shock the harder it will push when fully unloaded and the more you'd get the clank when it fully extends no? I'll try tonight and see if it makes a difference, it's counterintuitive to me but it's my first coil so I'm not exactly experienced...
    I donít know anything about the Storia, but Iíd be surprised if there isnít some sort of top-out bumper in it, so metal clanking is probably spring, not the shock, so I agree that itís likely a not-enough preload issue.

    Simple to test though, right? Just give it another couple turns of preload and see if the noise changes or goes away. If quieter or gone, then it was preload, if itís louder then maybe youíre on the right track about top out. Either way, youíre not going to damage anything by playing with the preload a little.

  18. #8668
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    Thanks all. What confuses me here is that the preload collar wasn't tight enough before but there wasn't any noise. I just noticed it when the bike was in the stand and realized that I could move the rear wheel up a couple mm before the spring contacted the collar. Once I got the preload supposedly correct it started clanking.

    I'll swing by the Suspension Syndicate tomorrow and pick Cody's brain, we'll see what I fucked up.
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  19. #8669
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    Jun 2008
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    Itís been a few years, but I had a similar thing happening and discovered that my spring was bent. It wouldnít stay snug on the collar with a minimum amount of preload.
    If you take the spring off and stand it on a flat service you can see a bend if its there.


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  20. #8670
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    Apr 2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    I'll swing by the Suspension Syndicate tomorrow and pick Cody's brain, we'll see what I fucked up.
    They are closed this week. I went to drop off a shock and a note on the window said they are on vacation. There were people in the building though but the door was locked, maybe it's working vacation?

  21. #8671
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Estes Park, CO
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    15
    Riding a Virtus Mythique 29. My rear suspension works fine - compresses and rebounds. However, if I lock it out, it will compress then rebound VERY slowly.

    Any suggestions as to what might be happening? This is my first bike so don't really know anything about them.

  22. #8672
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    Sep 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    I was going to answer until I saw this comment. So no photos will be posted of my wash setup.
    I'm a big proponent for tools and water for "dirty parts", and a separate bucket and tools for "pretty parts"
    -Orange bucket from home depot of with tools for "dirty parts". Brushes with a red handle marking them as dirty. These are a mix of kitchen scrubbers, toilet bowl brushes, and the odd bike specific chainring brush. The bucket has some warm water and some dish soap. This is not necessarily for the washing aspect, but more to clean the contaminates off of the brushes.
    -White Ace Hardware bucket for "pretty part" brushes and sponge, again with some water and dish soap to clean off the brushes. I have the MucOff brush set, but only because I was buying the for others, along with some kitchen type sponges.
    Dirty parts are anything the collects heavy built up dirt, or grease: under saddle, under BB, chainstay, tires/wheels, cassette, chainring, chain. They all get washed with the dirty tools with Muckoff bike wash, and occasionally MucOff degreaser on the drivetrain. I find bike specific bushes and tools too weak, bristles are not stiff enough, thats why I use a kitchen or bathroom specific brushes.
    Top of bike gets a light spray with the hose, and then spayed with MucOff bike wash, and the soft brushes go to work. I like the Mukoff soft brush for all the painted parts, and their split scrubber (looks like a lobster claw) for getting around hubs and chainstays close to the wheels. Most of the dirty parts (except the drivetrain) get washed again with the clean brushes.

    I'm in the camp of less is more. Less washing is better in the long run. I'll let my bikes get dirty and dusty and not wash them until really needed. If you're washing your bike every time you ride you're just going to be replacing bearings sooner than necessary.

    I dry off my bike with a microfibre towel, bounce it on the rear wheel to get water out of nook and crannies, and then use SC1 to polish it. This makes a wash last way longer, it prevents dirt and dust from sticking to the bike. Pledge furniture polish is the the same product as SC1, just without the bike part markup tax. I prefer lemon pledge, but the cotton candy smell of SC1 is worth the extra price.

    Chain waxing is only on my road bikes, MTB get the old fashion lube. I lube after rides, wipe until rags are clean (to the point i can rub my finger on the chain and not leave a streak on my finger), so the drivetrain is fairly clean most of time, and ready to ride at a moments notice. The drivetrain usually dosent need much special attention on wash day. I lube pivots on derailleur with triflow, pivots on dropper levers, pivots on SPDs, file off rock strike sharps on pedals. Most suspension linkages are bearing based, so I stay away from them with the triflow. Nothing special to suspension sanctions.
    I pedal the bike and mimic a brake bed in procedure, that way I burn off any contaminates that may have gotten on the rotors or pads, this prevents brake squeal on the ride after a wash.

    Again, it's not a show piece, and in my opinion washing it less is better. The SC1 is a invaluable product, it keeps the bike clean for a long time. Last night at the local race series some commented on me washing my bike to look good just for the race series, and it had actually been 8-10 rides since it had been washed, but the SC1 has it looking new, it actually says "New Bike In A Can" on the label.

    Edit: I'm in a dry dusty Colorado eviroment, so its never a mud caked bike, just dust. (gawd forbid we ride when its wet here)
    When I lived in the PNW we rode in Whistler/Squamish/Pemberton in every condition, poring rain just meant traction and brown pow face shots.
    There I was a fan of letting the dirt dry, clean the stanchions and pivots with a clean rag, and then brush the loose dried dirt off with a medium bristled brush. No water, no hose, just brush off the dirt between wash days.
    saved

  23. #8673
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
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    Can/USA
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    1,475
    Anyone tried this? Somewhat interested but the price puts me off.

    https://na.pocsports.com/products/co...42274465448102



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  24. #8674
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    where everybody knows your name...
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    Hey experts,

    So I somehow bent the axle on my singlespeed and need to find a replacement axle that Chris King no longer stocks (too much torque in the legs! ). More likely something rattled loose holding everything together but we each have our narratives right?

    Long shot, but anyone got a lead on a PHB541 - 135 mm Bolt On axle for the singlespeed ISO Disc hub?

    I searched the interwebz but the part appears to be out of stock.

    Appreciate it if someone could give me a lead so I donít need to get a new hub.

    Cheers,

    Coach


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  25. #8675
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    Mid-tomahawk
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    Quote Originally Posted by coach View Post
    Hey experts,

    So I somehow bent the axle on my singlespeed and need to find a replacement axle that Chris King no longer stocks (too much torque in the legs! ). More likely something rattled loose holding everything together but we each have our narratives right?

    Long shot, but anyone got a lead on a PHB541 - 135 mm Bolt On axle for the singlespeed ISO Disc hub?

    I searched the interwebz but the part appears to be out of stock.

    Appreciate it if someone could give me a lead so I donít need to get a new hub.

    Cheers,

    Coach


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Pinner Machine Shop has made some out of production King axles before. Hit him up.

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