Page 346 of 366 FirstFirst ... 341 342 343 344 345 346 347 348 349 350 351 ... LastLast
Results 8,626 to 8,650 of 9126

Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #8626
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    9,300ft
    Posts
    20,394
    Quote Originally Posted by grskier View Post
    Do they have the same offset?
    I assume the DTs do? How do I check?
    Quote Originally Posted by blurred
    skiing is hiking all day so that you can ski on shitty gear for 5 minutes.

  2. #8627
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    12,077
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    That's kind of what I mean though. Like, I don't doubt that they collected data that says what they reported. I just don't think what they're tested is relevant to the real world. A well designed lab test absolutely can be representative, but achieving "well designed" is hard.
    I guess what I'm saying is that, while their tests are maybe not representative of every real world scenario (or even most real world scenarios), their tests are at least accurate for what they are, and to the extent that those situations happen in the real world, they're worthwhile.

    Of the brakes they tested that I've ridden enough to have an opinion on them, I found their numbers to be more or less what I expected. Code RSC's are comparable in stopping ability to the better Shimanos. Guides are worse. Maguras are better. I'm only really looking at the stopping times, as they themselves said that the max power is meaningless, and I think the average power they listed isn't all that useful since it doesn't account for modulation (i.e. it only measures power at the particular lever force they used, which will have more or less power depending on the brake's "leverage curve").

    That obviously doesn't account for a lot of the other stuff that I like or dislike about brakes though. Like, I don't like that shimanos will randomly pull to the bar if you don't bleed them every 3 days. I don't like that Maguras are made out of plastic and the bleed ports strip. I don't like that the DOT fluid in srams takes off paint. Etc.

  3. #8628
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    15,330
    Quote Originally Posted by Eluder View Post
    Look at the back of the drive side crank arm by the pedal hole and it will tell you the exact model, this will tell us how many spacers you are suppose to have.

    https://dassets.shimano.com/content/...8120-4558B.pdf

    it is more likely it fell off during installation than broke so look around where did the deed.

    the "rings" in this diagram are just orings that are part of the spacer.
    Yes it's an 8120

  4. #8629
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SLC burbs
    Posts
    3,505
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Shimano XT 12-speed on GG Gnarvana. Assuming I somehow lost a spacer by either it breaking or somehow losing one when I pulled the cranks which side do I put the spacers on? I feel like when I pulled the cranks there were two on the non-drive side and now only one?!

    Edit to add: So I think I need one on each side of the BB and I think maybe the one on the drive side cracked and fell off somehow.
    Wait, are those the 2.5mm BB spacers we're talking about? In my mind those go between the frame and the BB cup, not between the cup and the crankarm. With a Gnarvana and a 73mm wide BB you end up with 1 spacer on the DS and that's it.
    The XTR cranks do take spacers in that spot but not the XT, cranks should be flush with the BB cup. Unless I've been doing it wrong for quite some time...

    Edit: nvm, just saw your last post with model number, the 8120 does have a 3 mm spacer between BB cup and crankarm (one on each side). I'm running and 8100 which doesn't have any spacers.
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  5. #8630
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    353

    Ask the experts

    I just put an EXT Storia coil shock on my Sentinel, and itís been amazing. Only thing is, it really highlights the shortcomings of my current fork, a Manitou Mezzer. My biggest gripe with the Manitou is the lack of small bump compliance, and a general feeling of harshness on high speed chattery stuff. The fork actually feels quite good on medium and larger hits, but I simply cannot get it to perform to my standards on the smaller stuff. I suspect the bushings are tight, which is fixable, but honestly Iím over it and want to try something else entirely.

    I come from a DH racing background, so I like to ride gnarly terrain at high speed, prioritize a planted hovercraft feel, and want maximum traction on chunky high speed nonsense. I weight 160lbs and ride fast but generally pretty smooth, and have never felt like 35-36mm forks were too flexy for me.

    So whatís the latest and greatest 160mm travel fork when it comes to plushness while still offering good support without being too massively heavy? Iíve thought about maybe snagging a Lyrik or 36 and putting a Smashpot in, or maybe one of the new RS Charger 3.0 forks(although it sounds like some people are finding these harsh?), or a fox 36 or 38? Or maybe an EXT ERA, although the price and lack of user serviceability are not the best. Iím also not opposed to aftermarket dampers, coil conversions, Secusís, or whatever if thatís what it comes to, I just want my fork to be awesome for blasting down rocky mountainsides at Mach stupid.

    So mags, what 160mm forks are blowing your mind right now?

  6. #8631
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SLC burbs
    Posts
    3,505
    Honestly if you suspect bushings just email Manitou and ask for new lowers. I had mine swapped 4 days after I reached out to their warranty.

    I have 2 of these forks, one on the trail bike with an air shock and one on the pig with a Storia. Been running the one on the trail bike for 2 years now and it took very little effort to get dialed. It's buttery smooth on any level of hit, from small brake bumps to hideous compressions and flat landings.
    Once I got the bushing issue addressed on the 2nd one it took a lot more effort to set up properly and I got a bit frustrated with the process. I imagine it's because the behavior of the coil is so different from the air shock and it makes balancing the bike a bit harder. The sensitivity of the Storia is insane and it made the fork feel way off. Surprisingly the solution for me was to run lower main pressure and higher IRT to get the fork more progressive, something I thought wouldn't mesh well with the linear shock. It does, and small bump sensitivity is outstanding now. I had to slow the rebound quite a bit compared to the trail bike but the pig now feels super balanced and is absolutely glued to the ground and incredibly plush...
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  7. #8632
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    9,300ft
    Posts
    20,394
    You should seriously look at DVO Diamond D1 or Onyx. The OTT makes small bump coil like because it literally has a little coil for that.

    I loved my D1 on my Tracer. If my Spire didn't come full built with a Float 38 I would have bought a DVO for it.
    Quote Originally Posted by blurred
    skiing is hiking all day so that you can ski on shitty gear for 5 minutes.

  8. #8633
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
    Posts
    9,797
    WRG, you ridden that thing in Smash mode? If not, you should.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  9. #8634
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    353

    Ask the experts

    Quote Originally Posted by summit View Post
    You should seriously look at DVO Diamond D1 or Onyx. The OTT makes small bump coil like because it literally has a little coil for that.

    I loved my D1 on my Tracer. If my Spire didn't come full built with a Float 38 I would have bought a DVO for it.
    Weird, I had a Diamond D1 a few years back and that thing was a piece of shit. Super tight bushings, damper needed rebled regularly, and CSU creaking.

    It sucks that even when you buy a >$1k fork thereís still a decent chance you get a lemon, and it doesnít seem like any mfg is immune to that.
    Last edited by MegaStoke; 08-08-2022 at 12:15 PM.

  10. #8635
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,595
    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley View Post
    WRG, you ridden that thing in Smash mode? If not, you should.
    Gnarvana doesn't have a flip chip for that.

  11. #8636
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Boulder
    Posts
    1,341
    Quote Originally Posted by MegaStoke View Post
    So mags, what 160mm forks are blowing your mind right now?
    Not the 2021 Lyrik that came on my Sight. ~20 rides in and its the harshest fork (in high speed chunk) I've owned. I'm braking into rough sections I would previously mob through because I can't get it to track.

    I'm still sussing out whether it's a setup issue or an issue with the fork itself. I haven't puzzled this much on fork setup since my Fox 34 CTD (an objectively bad fork). Will check travel without air in the chamber and pull lowers this week.

  12. #8637
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    12,077
    Quote Originally Posted by North View Post
    Not the 2021 Lyrik that came on my Sight. ~20 rides in and its the harshest fork (in high speed chunk) I've owned. I'm braking into rough sections I would previously mob through because I can't get it to track.

    I'm still sussing out whether it's a setup issue or an issue with the fork itself. I haven't puzzled this much on fork setup since my Fox 34 CTD (an objectively bad fork). Will check travel without air in the chamber and pull lowers this week.
    I think the lyriks are pretty hit or miss on build quality. I've had a few different lyriks that were supposedly the same, but in reality felt pretty different. Some were fantastic, some were meh. They all got better after a lot (like 100+ hours) of break in.

  13. #8638
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    33,089
    I got the new Pike and Zeb with the buttercups, very solid, real improvement to high frequency stutters and impacts. Thanks for the idea, Voorsprung!
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  14. #8639
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    PRB
    Posts
    28,940
    Quote Originally Posted by NuMexJoe View Post
    You want a pair? I've got a drawer with several 20-year old SPD pairs (Wellgo & Ritchey, mostly) that have collected dust since I made the switch to Time ATACs long ago. Yours for the cost of shipping.
    Attachment 423323
    sending PM now
    "fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
    "She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
    "I'd eat a bag of Dicks and wash it down with a Coke any day." - iceman

  15. #8640
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
    Posts
    9,797
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Gnarvana doesn't have a flip chip for that.
    I meant with Smash stays. Somebody around there has a set he can borrow.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  16. #8641
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    PRB
    Posts
    28,940
    Quote Originally Posted by EWG View Post
    You should definitely take the Ritcheys and then report back about how many times you crater onto your side from a complete stop when the things hold on like a pipe clamp.

    Video would be nice for us. Entertainment value and all.
    Well, I am getting some mystery pedals from NuMexJoe (thanks mang!) so we'll see if there's anything worth filming.
    "fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
    "She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
    "I'd eat a bag of Dicks and wash it down with a Coke any day." - iceman

  17. #8642
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Treading Water
    Posts
    6,007
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    What kind of fuckery is this? I pulled the crankset like 30ish miles ago. 8 miles into my ride today and I look down and see a big gap on the spindle non-drive side...did I break and lose a spacer? The arm is torqued on there to spec and not loose or backed out. There is no spacer on the drive side.
    The Saint crankset on my wife's DH bike has come loose a couple times. A few weeks ago, the fucking left arm just fell off. Don't know if it's the tolerances, or the pinch bolts working loose or what, but it sucks. I've never had a problem with Shimano cranks before, so still thinking there could be a user error component. This time the preload thingy is gone, so I replaced it with a WolfTooth one that uses a hex head instead of that stupid star thing, so at least now I can tighten it on the road. Extra grease added to spindle. Extra locktite added to pinch bolts. Fingers crossed.
    Lots of Cream, Lots of Sugar

  18. #8643
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    [a] Van [down by the river]
    Posts
    1,477
    Why is there a spacer in there in the first place?

    Generally if you're running a shimano BB, any spacers due to shell width would go between the external bearings and the BB shell. If you're running hollowtech 2, then everything should fit nicely, and you don't need any external spacers (between cranks and BB).

    The only time i've personally used them is when you run a road BB with a 68mm shell, then use mtb hollowtech 2 cranks (crank spindle is longer). Also, there should be a little black pin that drops down into the spindle to 'line up' the crank arms.

    When tightening them, alternate back and forth. If you torque one, then torque the other, the first one won't be upto spec, so double check.

    I've never had any issues with hollowtech 2 cranks on any bikes i've worked on.

    if it's not hollowtech 2, ignore all those comments.

  19. #8644
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    9,300ft
    Posts
    20,394
    Quote Originally Posted by summit View Post
    Bike: Spire came with DT Swiss EX 1700 Spline 30 which have DT350 36T MS 148x12 and an XT drivetrain.
    New Roost 31AM with DT240 54T MS 148x12, moved my XT 10-51 over.

    1. Shifting is off vs the other wheelset, but not just a little bit like I might expect could be solved with the barrel adjust. It is WAY off. It is almost like the cassette is shifted outboard although it appears to be fully flush. Mech required moving both high and low limits outboard, barrel adjust out all tension, still feels like there is too much tension, shifts poorly. I could keep solving this if not for problem #2

    2. If I tighten the rear axle per spec, or even just lightly finger tight, there is serious cassette drag on the stay that can be felt when pedaling (but wheel spins with no friction) and it causes it to jump when back pedaling. Loosening the axle solves this problem but it is far too loose to ride safely.

    What is wrong?
    I still have not solved this. I have taken the cassette off and on to make sure it wasn't an issue with the spider. Any ideas?

    I'm literally having to stop and check my axle every mile so that it is tight enough not to fall out but not too tight to cause the cassette to rub.
    Last edited by summit; 08-10-2022 at 09:54 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by blurred
    skiing is hiking all day so that you can ski on shitty gear for 5 minutes.

  20. #8645
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    486
    Quote Originally Posted by summit View Post
    I still have not solved this. I have taken the cassette off and on to make sure it wasn't an issue with the spider. Any ideas?

    I'm literally having to stop and check my axle every mile so that it is tight enough not to fall out but not too tight to cause the cassette to rub.
    Definitely sounds unusual. Is your 240 the newer EXP model? If so, Iím assuming youíre not reusing the freehub from the 350, because I donít think they are compatible. Do you have the correct end caps? The xd and ms caps are different. If you install the 350 does shifting return to normal?

    If you have some calipers Iíd start measuring and comparing to the 350 setup. Overall hub width (148mm). From end cap to 10t sprocket. End cap to 51t. Etc.

  21. #8646
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    12,077
    Quote Originally Posted by g_man80 View Post
    Do you have the correct end caps? The xd and ms caps are different.
    That's my thought as well. Sounds like the drive side end cap is a smidge too short, so it's probably not the correct cap for MS.

  22. #8647
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    9,300ft
    Posts
    20,394
    Quote Originally Posted by g_man80 View Post
    Definitely sounds unusual. Is your 240 the newer EXP model? If so, I’m assuming you’re not reusing the freehub from the 350, because I don’t think they are compatible. Do you have the correct end caps? The xd and ms caps are different. If you install the 350 does shifting return to normal?

    If you have some calipers I’d start measuring and comparing to the 350 setup. Overall hub width (148mm). From end cap to 10t sprocket. End cap to 51t. Etc.
    240 is exp 54t, new this year, new carbon wheelset.

    350 is 36t also this year's model (or last years) came on the stock dt aluminum wheelset with my new (to me) 2022 Spire with Shimano XT drivetrain everything including the 10-51 in question.

    I moved the cassette from the 350 wheel to the 240 wheel. I did not move the hub body.

    I could try moving the cassette back and reinstalling the 350 wheel.

    When I looked up the 240 product ID it came back as an 148mm 36t XD, but 100% it is a 148mm with 54t internals and a MS. Now the wheel mfg could have had a 36t XD and swapped the 54t in and changed the fhb to MS to fit the order, but would that have affected spacing on anything? I would think they would be aware of such things?
    Quote Originally Posted by blurred
    skiing is hiking all day so that you can ski on shitty gear for 5 minutes.

  23. #8648
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Posts
    52
    The MS lockring has a smaller internal diameter than the XD or the old HG lockring (they all use the same tool, but deeper than the tool splines the ms one gets smaller diameter). The MS endcap is likely a slightly smaller diameter to work with that (I don't have a DT endcap to look at and confirm this, but it is definately true with other brands). If you have the wrong endcap, the cassette lockring will bind on the end cap, when you tighten the axle, you will get the cassette drag that you describe.




    Quote Originally Posted by summit View Post
    240 is exp 54t, new this year, new carbon wheelset.

    350 is 36t also this year's model (or last years) came on the stock dt aluminum wheelset with my new (to me) 2022 Spire with Shimano XT drivetrain everything including the 10-51 in question.

    I moved the cassette from the 350 wheel to the 240 wheel. I did not move the hub body.

    I could try moving the cassette back and reinstalling the 350 wheel.

    When I looked up the 240 product ID it came back as an 148mm 36t XD, but 100% it is a 148mm with 54t internals and a MS. Now the wheel mfg could have had a 36t XD and swapped the 54t in and changed the fhb to MS to fit the order, but would that have affected spacing on anything? I would think they would be aware of such things?

  24. #8649
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    9,300ft
    Posts
    20,394
    Everything involved is MS, both wheelsets/hubs and the cassette and lockring.

    That MS lockring is nuts, (before this bike I only had SRAM) it is shallow and has tiny threads... that combined with the non-one-piece spider for Shimano and the ease with which you can think you seated the 10T by having it rotated about 120deg, but its actually sitting cockeye led me to partially stripping the lockring. Apparently this is a common mistake even for experienced wrenches (I'm not). Luckily I realized it before the lockring was destroyed (nobody has replacements), rectified the 10T placement to flush, and put the ring back on. At first I thought this was the issue, but I don't think that is the issue, and it certainly wouldn't explain the apparent shifting of the 51 entire cassette outboard (requiring high limit and low limit adjust).
    Quote Originally Posted by blurred
    skiing is hiking all day so that you can ski on shitty gear for 5 minutes.

  25. #8650
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SLC burbs
    Posts
    3,505
    Quote Originally Posted by kalisto View Post
    Why is there a spacer in there in the first place?

    Generally if you're running a shimano BB, any spacers due to shell width would go between the external bearings and the BB shell. If you're running hollowtech 2, then everything should fit nicely, and you don't need any external spacers (between cranks and BB).

    The only time i've personally used them is when you run a road BB with a 68mm shell, then use mtb hollowtech 2 cranks (crank spindle is longer). Also, there should be a little black pin that drops down into the spindle to 'line up' the crank arms.

    When tightening them, alternate back and forth. If you torque one, then torque the other, the first one won't be upto spec, so double check.

    I've never had any issues with hollowtech 2 cranks on any bikes i've worked on.

    if it's not hollowtech 2, ignore all those comments.
    The Hollowtech 2 wide models (XT 8120 and 8130) both have spacers between the BB cup and the crankarm to deal with the wider Q-factor. The 8100 (regular boost) doesn't have the spacers.
    All 3 models take 2.5 mm spacers between frame and BB cup (either 1 or 3 spacers depending on the width of the BB).

    I was confused as hell when I first saw the post cause I run a 8100 crankset and didn't realize OP is running the wider 8120 version.
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •