Ask the experts

[Dee Hubbs]

Just to close the story:
Tried to dremel a slot for a flat head in the back side of the broken end of the bolt. Made some progress backing it out but then things got soft or I got too pushy and the hole and bolt went to shit. Just bit the bullit and found a replacement stem for less. Ah another idiot move in the life of learning how to work on and build your own bikes, this is build 3, and things are less frustrating but still the occasional f bomb.

Do you think its salvable? If it the right size I'd give you some beer money so I can put it on a spare parts build bike.
What length, what color?
35 Turbine R?
35 Turbine?
31.8 Turbine?

[EWG]

Do you think its salvable? If it the right size I'd give you some beer money so I can put it on a spare parts build bike.
What length, what color?
35 Turbine R?
35 Turbine?
31.8 Turbine?

Cut in the threads for the next size up bolt. It'll probably hold. It's just a stem. What could go wrong?

I mean, besides this:

[volklpowdermaniac]

Do you think its salvable? If it the right size I'd give you some beer money so I can put it on a spare parts build bike.
What length, what color?
35 Turbine R?
35 Turbine?
31.8 Turbine?

Maybe but I wouldn’t feel comfortable with you riding it even for your spare bike even for free. I tossed it.

[volklpowdermaniac]

Question about Bontrager Rapid Drive 108 hubs
I’m under no illusions about the quality of these, they came on a 300 dollar set of Line Comp Alloys- I just needed a cheap set of 29” to experiment with- nonetheless, they had been working well until this past week. I am using the wheels and hubs for a new build with shimano 12 speed so I bought the different free hub body (it was previously 11 speed shimano) (then of course I realized I also needed to buy a new special end cap - really trek? Couldn’t include that with the 100.00 freehub, anyways...) At this time I also installed the additional pawls and springs to increase engagement.

Anyways, the first time I installed the new microspline hub I used the old end cap (before I realized it wouldn’t work with the larger cassette) and the freehub was freehubing just fine. When I received the special microspline end cap I switched the caps out and now it doesn’t seem to want to freehub. Just engages in both directions... anyone ever have this happen to them? Any thoughts / solutions. Admittingly I’m on my way out of town and haven’t had a chance to fiddle with it since it became stuck but just looking for some ideas.

[bagtagley]

Any suggestions on which app I should use to access and download trail and topo maps like the Nat Geo Trails Illustrated maps?

[troth]

is it time for new wheels? I having have been braking a lot of spokes, even had e13 warranty the rim and since replacing the rim I have still been braking spokes. I have taken the wheel to 3 different shops to replace the broken spokes so I don't think I can blame this on a mechanic not know what they are doing. I’m a bit of a Clydesdale(200-210lbs) maybe in to heavy for these wheels? Looking at getting new wheel so don't have to constantly take my bike in to have the spokes replaced. Any recommendations on good bang for you buck wheel would be appreciated, I don’t mind spending some money as the value is there. This is for a 2018 Jeffsy.

[ticketchecker]

Is this the adaptor I need for 180mm rotor on a post mount frame? http://www.bikeman.com/BR8820.html

looks right but I thought they were noted F or R depending on front or rear, not finding an R version of this.

[HAB]

Is this the adaptor I need for 180mm rotor on a post mount frame? http://www.bikeman.com/BR8820.html

looks right but I thought they were noted F or R depending on front or rear, not finding an R version of this.

IS used different front and rear versions because dumb. Post mount is just post mount. So yep, that's the right adapter to go from a 160 mm post mount to a 180 mm rotor.

Of course, lots of frames and forks use post mount tabs with something bigger than 160 mm rotors as the baseline. But since you're asking about an adapter to get to 180 mm, I assume yours is 160 mm.

[ticketchecker]

Thanks HAB, I may mistakenly assume it needs an adaptor since I'm just used to needing them. Revel specs 180 rotors, emailed them to confirm need for adaptor.

Thanks mang

[toast2266]

is it time for new wheels? I having have been braking a lot of spokes, even had e13 warranty the rim and since replacing the rim I have still been braking spokes. I have taken the wheel to 3 different shops to replace the broken spokes so I don't think I can blame this on a mechanic not know what they are doing. I’m a bit of a Clydesdale(200-210lbs) maybe in to heavy for these wheels? Looking at getting new wheel so don't have to constantly take my bike in to have the spokes replaced. Any recommendations on good bang for you buck wheel would be appreciated, I don’t mind spending some money as the value is there. This is for a 2018 Jeffsy.

Lots of stock and low-mid tier wheels use lower quality spokes. Once they start breaking, you're gonna keep breaking them.

If the hub and rim are good quality, you could relace the wheel with higher quality spokes and it'll hold up well. If the rim and hub don't justify that expense, then you're looking at a new wheel.

[HAB]

Thanks HAB, I may mistakenly assume it needs an adaptor since I'm just used to needing them. Revel specs 180 rotors, emailed them to confirm need for adaptor.

Thanks mang

Per their site, the Rail and Rascal have a mount for a 180mm rotor directly. The Ranger is 160mm.

[stuckathuntermtn]

Any of you experts on One Up parts, or maybe have a support phone number? Their website says this chainring should be compatible with Shimano chains. Having a go at it says differently. Yes, I am aware of the narrow-wide pattern. It won't stay in it. Can I wear it in on the stand?

[HAB]

Any of you experts on One Up parts, or maybe have a support phone number? Their website says this chainring should be compatible with Shimano chains. Having a go at it says differently. Yes, I am aware of the narrow-wide pattern. It won't stay in it. Can I wear it in on the stand?

Is your quick link fastened properly? I've had that happen [ETA: not on a OneUp ring, specifically] when I spaced out and forgot to snap the quick link into place in the stand.

[Andeh]

I used the Switch chainring v2 just fine with Shimano 12sp. Dumb suggestion, but have you tried shifting it 1 tooth forward/back?

[Roxtar]

I've put OneUp Switch rings on three Shimano 12 sp, including my own.
No issues at all.

[stuckathuntermtn]

I used the Switch chainring v2 just fine with Shimano 12sp. Dumb suggestion, but have you tried shifting it 1 tooth forward/back?

I've put OneUp Switch rings on three Shimano 12 sp, including my own.
No issues at all.

Yeah, I don't get why it didn't work.
Yes, I shifted it all over the place. I get that the narrow-wide tooth patterns line up with the inner-outer links. Maybe it's an old design? Then somehow I stripped the little nuts that hold the ring on the carrier. Because of course.
Anyway, old Eagle chain might not last that long since I needed a chain breaker to get it off, will KMC 10 speed Missing Links work in a pinch just to ride to the car?
I'd really like to get a different chain on there eventually (and maybe an oval ring for my knee). It shifts great now, but there's 1 gear the Sram chain doesn't settle into perfectly. Like, the teeth in the next smallest cog can hit it because it's not as narrow as a Shimano chain?
I'll figure it out 1 day. Oddly, just holding them in my hand, the Sram ring seems to mesh just fine with the Shimano chain.
Ps, I HATE 4MM ALLEN HARDWARE.

that is all.

[El Chupacabra]

I can't tell for certain based on the pic (am viewing on phone), but that looks like a carbon XO crank with a spider attached. Is it?

Any reason you didn't just get the spiderless direct mount chainring? AFAIK the spider is removable on all those XO cranks and a direct mount chainring goes right on.

Not that it would cure the weird shift issue, just curious.

[stuckathuntermtn]

It is DM. You're seeing One Up's system. Since there are so many different standards and profiles, companies like One Up and Wolftooth seem to be making separate rings and carriers. Sram crank? Sram DM carrier. Shimano chain? Round? Oval? Changed to a Race Face crank? Add on as appropriate. It's super low profile, and probably about as light as a 1 piece. Supposed to allow changing the chainring without taking off the crank arm, too. Although I somehow fucked that up.
I emailed One Up earlier today when I was messing around, but haven't heard back yet. Guess they're busy.

And just to add: all fastening the quicklink did was make it so I had to use a chain breaker to get it off. These "quick" links aren't very quick in 12 speed. If I can't take it off by hand and maybe reuse it, it's not a quicklink IMO.

[stuckathuntermtn]

Starting the think maybe they sent me a v1 by accident or otherwise some older version. Any way to tell without taking it off?

[simple]

If you or any of you guys are using Sram powerlink or Shimano quick link get the real chain tool MLP-1.2 from Park Tool. It is a must have IMO

[stuckathuntermtn]

Right. It doesn't say V2 on it. I think that's the problem.

[Andeh]

Right. It doesn't say V2 on it. I think that's the problem.

Yeah the V2s say V2. The V1s don't say anything.

[bagtagley]

Any idea why Jenson sells regular and Shimano-specific chainrings for the OneUp Switch system? I thought the point was to eliminate system-specific chainrings.

Any thoughts on Switch versus a Shimano direct mount?

[stuckathuntermtn]

It must be v1 and v2. Very confusing. Even their tech support didn't help because the blurb says it works for all. I gotta try and get on the horn with someone there and see if maybe they can give me a deal on a Shimano specific one if they ever come back in stock. Not to worried about it though, since it's working fine with a Sram chain right now.

[Andeh]

What size ring do you need?

I have a 32t one of these: https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...perglide-chain

Ditched the XTR to go back to SRAM. I'll let it go cheap.