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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #5251
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    Not B-screw, that won't affect chain tension in smaller cogs. Assuming the chain is the correct length, it sounds like a clutch issue.

  2. #5252
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    ^^^ x2.

    Does turning off the clutch change anything?

  3. #5253
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    My first XT clutch was all rusty and fucked after just a few hundred miles. I think some of them went out with no grease and bad seals. Shimano replaced it.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  4. #5254
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    I have a FSA ordinary cage bearing headset with a tapered whisky fork. The damn headset is either too stiff or it has slack. I pre-load it on the tight side but after a few days it develops slack again. I torque the screws, and I put carbon assembly paste. I tried different stems. It feels like the tapered compression ring keeps setting in, but I am not sure. What should I check and try? New bearing, spacer rings, replace the whole headset? Any tricks to setting the initial tension after removing the fork?

  5. #5255
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cocximus View Post
    I have a FSA ordinary cage bearing headset with a tapered whisky fork. The damn headset is either too stiff or it has slack. I pre-load it on the tight side but after a few days it develops slack again. I torque the screws, and I put carbon assembly paste. I tried different stems. It feels like the tapered compression ring keeps setting in, but I am not sure. What should I check and try? New bearing, spacer rings, replace the whole headset? Any tricks to setting the initial tension after removing the fork?
    A bearing cage may be damaged. You can remove the cage and install the ball bearings loose, carefully, and see if that makes a difference.

    I had a loose ball FSA headset that came on a Kona. Replaced it with a FSA cartridge headset; much smoother, a little lighter too. Amazon has them cheap (at least, the size I needed) -
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  6. #5256
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    Quote Originally Posted by teledad View Post
    Not B-screw, that won't affect chain tension in smaller cogs. Assuming the chain is the correct length, it sounds like a clutch issue.
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    ^^^ x2.

    Does turning off the clutch change anything?
    Quote Originally Posted by climberevan View Post
    My first XT clutch was all rusty and fucked after just a few hundred miles. I think some of them went out with no grease and bad seals. Shimano replaced it.
    I turned the clutch on and off (turned it off in lower gears and shifted down) and there's still the same slack in 10t. Clutch feels a bitch notchy but I don't think it's the issue. B-tension is in spec with 51t teeth are on the line on the mech cage. It feels like the derailleur cage isn't moving much from 12t to 10t and so it can't put more tension on the chain. Maybe the chain is too long although it looks ok in 51t? Kind of has to be the chain length at this point?

  7. #5257
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    If I remove the cage don't I need a bunch more bearings?

    I was looking to install a cane creek forty. The FSA cartridge bearing headsets use the same split compression ring. Looks like cane creek does it differently.

  8. #5258
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    Quote Originally Posted by gramboh View Post
    I turned the clutch on and off (turned it off in lower gears and shifted down) and there's still the same slack in 10t. Clutch feels a bitch notchy but I don't think it's the issue. B-tension is in spec with 51t teeth are on the line on the mech cage. It feels like the derailleur cage isn't moving much from 12t to 10t and so it can't put more tension on the chain. Maybe the chain is too long although it looks ok in 51t? Kind of has to be the chain length at this point?
    chain length issue or springs in RD are toast

  9. #5259
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    ^ post a pic on the biggest cog. (I'm assuming 1 up front)

  10. #5260
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  11. #5261
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    Shimano tech docs are also top notch

  12. #5262
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    OK, Shimano brake question. I noticed a week or two ago that there was a tiny bit of mineral oil weeping out of the end of the rubber reservoir when I applied the brake lever. I assumed it was pooched, as those aren’t repairable, so I ordered a new right brake. Just for fun while waiting for the new brake lever to arrive, I bled it, and took it down a blistering, rocky trail. It seemed to work perfectly…and this baffles me, as it is losing a teeny bit of oil (seemingly) with every lever pull.
    Any observations?
    I am still going to replace it, but just curious. The last time I over pressurized the reservoir and it weeped oil, it was toast.
    Last edited by rideit; 07-07-2021 at 11:26 PM.
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  13. #5263
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    Magura replaced one under warranty for doing that. It was working fine--the volume weaping out is like 0.1% of a lever pull but adds up to drips--you'll see it before you'll feel it.

  14. #5264
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    In the interest of 'Tools not jewels', I have some serious rain in the forecast and am planning to ride a pile of wet tarmac miles. I've got the drivetrain stuff mostly down, but is there anything I can be doing to suspension pivots, bottom bracket, hubs etc pre or post wet ride to reduce wear and tear?

  15. #5265
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalisto View Post
    ^ post a pic on the biggest cog. (I'm assuming 1 up front)
    Pics of 10t and 51t (sorry for night shot of 51t). From looking at the link from teledad (thanks dude) the 51t looks like the cage is around the same angle but the 10t is definitely off.

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  16. #5266
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    Ask the experts

    You can loose 2 links from that chain.
    I like to put the chain in the 10t and look to see if the chain hits the lower jockey wheel, if it dose your chain is too long.
    The other check I like to do in the 10t, look at your derailleur angle in the 10t, then lift the chain off the front chainring and see how much angle the rear derailleur moves without the chain tension. If it does not move up very much without the chain on, you’re too long.

  17. #5267
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    Ask the experts

    How much of a difference does elevation make with air suspension? Let’s say I’m tuning at 4750’ but riding between 6400-7600’…

    When I initially set my sag up I think I shot for about 18% (IIRC this was at about 90psi) and it felt great riding near my home base, maybe up to 1500’ above my apartment.

    Riding the bike park for a few days and noticed the fork felt considerably softer (noticed this on the 3rd day). I pumped up to 100-105 and it felt back to how I liked it. It didn’t seem like I’d lost any air when I initially screwed the pump on it read maybe a hair under 90psi. Is this normal?


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  18. #5268
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    Quote Originally Posted by gramboh View Post
    Pics of 10t and 51t (sorry for night shot of 51t). From looking at the link from teledad (thanks dude) the 51t looks like the cage is around the same angle but the 10t is definitely off.
    Chain does look long. It doesn't look taut. If you have a quick link, it's easy enough to pop the chain off and measure it yourself.

    Page 14:
    https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...001-04-ENG.pdf

    Basically what Dee Hubbs said, but shimano also likes to recommend a shorter chain than you'd think.

    Just threw a new chain on my bike to shimano's recommendation (10-51T, hardtail though, so the recommendation is 1 link longer for a full suspension):

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    Last edited by kalisto; 07-08-2021 at 10:02 AM.

  19. #5269
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    If you set your pressure to 100psi at sea level and then went up to 6000' and measured it would be about 103psi. If you set your pressure to 100psi at whatever elevation you're at, it will be at 100psi and feel about the same- the gauge is measuring relative to the atmosphere where you are.

    Temperature makes a bigger difference, both to pressure, and to how the damper acts. Hotter makes the oil thinner, so less damping force, but the air pressure a bit higher, so you wind up stiffer and under damped. Opposite in really cold. And then there's the change in temp from just riding, like at near the bottom of a bike park run.
    Last edited by jamal; 07-08-2021 at 09:53 AM.

  20. #5270
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thaleia View Post
    In the interest of 'Tools not jewels', I have some serious rain in the forecast and am planning to ride a pile of wet tarmac miles. I've got the drivetrain stuff mostly down, but is there anything I can be doing to suspension pivots, bottom bracket, hubs etc pre or post wet ride to reduce wear and tear?
    Fenders. As big as you can fit.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  21. #5271
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    Atmospheric pressure should have no effect on the pressure in your air spring since it's a fully-sealed unit. Theoretically you could take it into space and the pressure wouldn't change. Ambient temperature will have an effect, but at normal spring pressures it's probably negligible, especially compared to the temperature changes caused by riding it.

  22. #5272
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    Brake upgrade ad rotor size:

    I'm upgrading my brakes on a v3 bronson that has my old brakes; guide r 180 with centerline front and rear rotors all off my old v2 bronson. They are long in the teeth and starting to have issues. I'm a one bike guy and ride downhill at places like Killington to trails in central VT with lots of descending. Also a big guy at 240#'s with all my gear. Thinking going to Code rsc's since I know sram brakes and have bleed kits etc. I've never tried 200mm rotors. Any drawbacks in going 200mm front and rear?

  23. #5273
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluebird View Post
    Brake upgrade ad rotor size:

    I'm upgrading my brakes on a v3 bronson that has my old brakes; guide r 180 with centerline front and rear rotors all off my old v2 bronson. They are long in the teeth and starting to have issues. I'm a one bike guy and ride downhill at places like Killington to trails in central VT with lots of descending. Also a big guy at 240#'s with all my gear. Thinking going to Code rsc's since I know sram brakes and have bleed kits etc. I've never tried 200mm rotors. Any drawbacks in going 200mm front and rear?
    Bigger rotors weigh a bit more. That's about the only drawback. I think you'll like the 200's (and the Codes - definitely a bump up in power over guides)

  24. #5274
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    Atmospheric pressure should have no effect on the pressure in your air spring since it's a fully-sealed unit. Theoretically you could take it into space and the pressure wouldn't change. Ambient temperature will have an effect, but at normal spring pressures it's probably negligible, especially compared to the temperature changes caused by riding it.
    Intuitively this is what I was thinking as well since it’s a closed system. I hadn’t even ridden yet on the day in question but there was a very noticeable difference in the way the fork felt just riding in the lot, which prompted me to up the pressure. I wonder if it was solely temperature related as the bike was sitting on the rack in the sun all morning, maybe just enough to thin the oil a bit, black fork..

  25. #5275
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluebird View Post
    Brake upgrade ad rotor size:

    I'm upgrading my brakes on a v3 bronson that has my old brakes; guide r 180 with centerline front and rear rotors all off my old v2 bronson. They are long in the teeth and starting to have issues. I'm a one bike guy and ride downhill at places like Killington to trails in central VT with lots of descending. Also a big guy at 240#'s with all my gear. Thinking going to Code rsc's since I know sram brakes and have bleed kits etc. I've never tried 200mm rotors. Any drawbacks in going 200mm front and rear?
    Went from a 200/180 setup to 200/200 this year. Code Rs.

    I was really surprised by the difference in power, probably the single biggest upgrade I've ever got for such a small amount of money.

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