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Thread: Ask the experts
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06-06-2023, 05:57 PM #10701
I’m a big fan of high engagement hubs. Especially for more technical riding. I’m not a fan of the i9’s tho. When I tested them they felt slow riding. I’m a really big fan of the DTSwiss 240s with the high engagement star ratchet. Plus they are one of the most durable longest lasting hubs on the market and dead simple to maintain
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06-06-2023, 06:01 PM #10702
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06-06-2023, 06:16 PM #10703Registered User
- Join Date
- Feb 2014
- Location
- NorCal coast
- Posts
- 1,969
Hydras sound cool, come in cool colors, are made in USA, and the bearings are super easy to service with minimal tools. The high engagement is nice for ratcheting or techy bits, but can make bikes with really high pedal kickback feel worse. It's essentially instant engagement. The bearing sealing isn't awesome.
Compare to DT Swiss, which are only in black, made in Asia, and the bearings are are easy to service with once you buy really expensive tools. But the bearing sealing seems a lot better. The 54t ratchet gives you pretty high engagement, but riding back to back with Hydras, there is a little bit of play into a thunk for engagement.
I have both. I like both, but if I was on a budget, or was just trying to min/max, I'd get DT 350s for sure.
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06-06-2023, 06:46 PM #10704
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06-06-2023, 07:12 PM #10705
Any tips for removing a really stuck caliper piston on some guides? Doing a caliper rebuild and one of the pistons seems very thoroughly attached to the piston seal.
Thanks
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06-06-2023, 08:51 PM #10706
Take a chunk of wood that fits tightly into the caliper (with no pads in it). Drill a piston sized hole in the appropriate place for the stuck piston. So 3 pistons should hit the wood fairly immediately, and the stuck piston can extend into the hole. Now squeeze the lever.
You can accomplish the same thing by modifying a bleed block, if you have a spare one lying around.
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06-06-2023, 10:59 PM #10707Registered User
- Join Date
- Oct 2017
- Location
- Evergreen Co
- Posts
- 980
Honestly I’ve normally just replaced calipers with stuck pistons… might be a bit wasteful but I’ve had a few pairs I’ve spent hours working on without success. Shimano I’ve cracked a few pistons that are stuck.
I have some good condition guides I my parts bin. Let me know if you need a caliper.
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06-06-2023, 11:02 PM #10708
Worked like a charm. Thanks
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06-06-2023, 11:25 PM #10709
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06-07-2023, 06:50 AM #10710Registered User
- Join Date
- Jan 2006
- Posts
- 1,572
Any feedback on the Fox 34 Performance Elite Fit4 vs. the Performance Grip? Looks like you lose the lockout on the Grip (which I don't need), but maybe the damper is better?
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06-07-2023, 07:25 AM #10711powder poacher
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Location
- Montpelier, VT
- Posts
- 277
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06-07-2023, 07:28 AM #10712powder poacher
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Location
- Montpelier, VT
- Posts
- 277
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06-07-2023, 07:40 AM #10713
I've used I9's system wheelsets on the last four bikes I've owned. I put them on Mrs Roxtar's last three.
There's a reason (beyond just the beautiful looks). In all that time I have yet to have the slightest inkling of a problem.
They've been completely set and forget.
I built up a Canfield Balance for a buddy about 8 or so years ago with pre boost I9 Torch wheels.
Still running perfect with one bearing change.
Are there cheaper wheels/hubs? Sure.
Are there better? I don't know.
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06-07-2023, 07:40 AM #10714Registered User
- Join Date
- Oct 2017
- Location
- Evergreen Co
- Posts
- 980
Alright...
Dumb shifting question that has just been stumping me.
I have an Xo1 Drivetrain. Quite a few miles on the shifter and RD (hair under 5000). The chain is fairly new (700 miles) and measures under .5. It's freshly waxed and in good condition. Hanger is perfect. Fresh cable and housing. 3500 miles on the cassette. Same front chainring for a while and proper offset. New Pulley wheels for the RD like 800 miles ago. I have not played with the Bscrew and it was shifting great previously.
It's started randomly dropping 5-6 gears at a time. This happens when I pedal hard in one of my lowest three gears but only a few times per ride. You can kinda feel the chain wanting to drop as you pedal harder. Once it drops it binds but can slowly climb up if you can soft pedal a bit. It only feels that way in the lowest three gears and gets worse as you get closest to the lowest gear.
The last culprits I'm leaving on the table are the cassette (It's been a fairly quick transition to this type of behavior though which throws me a little) or that the cage for the RD is bent and I'm just not seeing it. My guess is that it's the RD... but the only way I can think to test the latter theory is to just buy a new RD which I'm not thrilled about if it doesn't fix the problem. The shifter feels fine and isn't gunky at all.
Thoughts?
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06-07-2023, 08:42 AM #10715
The most lowest hanging fruit to check first would be confirming that the rd is tight on the hanger.
Not trying to be a dick…but speaking from experience
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
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06-07-2023, 09:17 AM #10716
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06-07-2023, 09:28 AM #10717
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06-07-2023, 10:05 AM #10718
I have Nukeproof Horizon V2 wheelsets on two bikes, and a spare in the box for a future build. Check tension when you get them, and then they're great. Not the lightest, but 32 J bend spokes, 6-pawl rear hubs, high engagement (120 POE? something like that), cheap kits to interchange between XD, microspline, or HG. Come taped and with valves for tubeless. Often available in a kit with inserts (cush core type inserts) and some sealant for $325-350 ish, for everything. Nukeproof builds these with a slightly lighter front rim and slightly heavier rear rim.
Are DT 240s better? Yes. Cheaper? Not by a long shot.
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06-07-2023, 10:07 AM #10719
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06-07-2023, 10:56 AM #10720Registered User
- Join Date
- Oct 2017
- Location
- Evergreen Co
- Posts
- 980
Good thought on the RD being loose but I have shifted to using a torque wrench for everything and the RD and hanger are property torqued. Same with the rear axle (which have really high torque specs on pivots).
My bet is on the RD cage because it seems like some sort of flex has to be causing the issue but any other things I should look at?
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06-07-2023, 11:01 AM #10721Dad core
- Join Date
- Dec 2006
- Location
- Back in Seattle
- Posts
- 1,284
Anyone in Seattle have a spare wheel box or should I just cut up the bike box I have.
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06-07-2023, 12:56 PM #10722
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06-07-2023, 04:37 PM #10723
Those pivots do wear out! I just had it happen on a high mileage axs rd. There is plastic bushings around the pins that wear out. Remove RD and disconnect cable to check for play.
Other option is the shifter may be bad and is no longer properly holding the rd in each gear. Might be worth seeing if it’s packed full of crud.
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06-07-2023, 04:45 PM #10724
Looks like you solved it. But my trick for popping out pistons is to stick a correctly-sized allen key in the caliper’s rotor slot as a piston block, then pump the brakes until all pistons extend against the allen key. If there’s one that’s still not moving, you can help it by hooking up a syringe of brake fluid and further pressurizing the system as you squeeze the lever.
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06-07-2023, 05:13 PM #10725
Ok so 2023 Zeb Ultimate installed. Diaz worked on it and it needed a bunch of work even thought it was BNIB. Instantly feels good just rolling around the neighborhood. Makes me realize how shit my other Zeb was even when it was brand new. This thing is plush. With my own tinkering on sag I landed at 62psi. Recco for my weight it 60psi. I'm starting with rebound -11 from closed which is the recco. Why doesn't the RS tuning app not give any guidance on compression settings?
What are you guys running for HS and LS compression?
Edit: Seeing some more stuff online pointing to running less sag which helped me make the other Zeb at least tolerable. So 62psi is putting me at 30% for sag. Gonna bump up to 20% sag.
Edit again: I just double checked my measurements and I'm at 23% sag and no tokens. LSC fully open and HSC 2/5 . Gonna start there and see how it feels.Last edited by Whiteroom_Guardian; 06-07-2023 at 05:57 PM.
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