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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #5426
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    Jan 2017
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    Took a spill with my new magura MT7’s and I snapped the little lever stop, in research apparently doesn’t matter. But now the brake is ultra spongy, pull to the bar with no lock up. Bled today and still no change. Never had Magura’s do anything I should be looking for??


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  2. #5427
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
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    295
    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    Ive posted this a couple times but its a great application for this set up. Glue the excess tube to the sidewall as well. You can run it with less air for a kid and he'll never burp it. Im guessing its easier to set up on a kids tire and non tubeless rim



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    That does seem like it would work well for kids non tubeless rim. Might switch to that next time the tire needs changing. Right now staying above 20 psi seems to be the ticket. But he’s also not hucking stuff yet.


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  3. #5428
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    2,478
    In my opinion if you can get the tire on with leavers the rim needs more tape. When the only option is the Kool stop tire bead jack there's enough tape. That's as burp proof as it gets.

  4. #5429
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    Nov 2005
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    However, there certainly can be too much tape!
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  5. #5430
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    Mich dh 34 or 22 with the wire bead. One strip of tape, hit it lightly with the heat gun and put the tires on by hand. Off and on as many times as you want and that wire bead pops to perfection wverytime. No squirm, no leak. Theyve got some kind of tech with the wire bead happening . Not sure what it is but its reassuring.

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  6. #5431
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    Halfway Between the Gutter and the Stars
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    DT Swiss hub question.

    To make a short story long, I smashed my rim on a rock and got a good dent in it. For entertainment I decided to try to straighten it (Sourced new rim at LBS as plan A (You know how hard it is to find a 28hole 29er rim these days?)). I put the pliers to it to straighten it but once straight still had a dent. I rested the rim on the bench and took the hammer to the fucker. So I'm wailing away on the rim and the cassette just falls off. WTF? I looked around and found a spring and a ratchetty like thick washer thing (for lack of the correct terminology). So I put it together, spring, ratchet, ratchet, spring and it seems to work but, really? Is that all there is to this thing? No lock ring, no c clip, nothing to hold it together other than the bike frame squeezing it?
    You are what you eat.
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    There's no such thing as bad snow, just shitty skiers.

  7. #5432
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    That’s it, just a friction fit. The axle basically holds it all together when on the bike. Sounds nuts, but it is as intended. Make sure you get the reassembly correct, though.
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  8. #5433
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    May 2012
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    Haha, I landed in Denver 2 wks ago and was assembling my bike in the baggage area. Can't recall what exactly happened but as I was monkeying with the rear wheel the eagle cassette slid off the stans neo freehub. Shouldn't be a big deal except the 6 pawls have to simultaneously be pressed in to get the cassette back on. I keep a tire repair kit now which includes a small dentist size floss for sewing up slashed sidewalls and was able to wrap a loop of floss around the pawls which was enough to get the cassette back on. Crisis everted a baggage carousel 2. Not a fan of the friction fit cassette. I think DT swiss is easier to deal with though.

  9. #5434
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    Everted.

    Heh.
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  10. #5435
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    Oct 2002
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    Ask the experts

    Quote Originally Posted by evdog View Post
    Haha, I landed in Denver 2 wks ago and was assembling my bike in the baggage area. Can't recall what exactly happened but as I was monkeying with the rear wheel the eagle cassette slid off the stans neo freehub. Shouldn't be a big deal except the 6 pawls have to simultaneously be pressed in to get the cassette back on. I keep a tire repair kit now which includes a small dentist size floss for sewing up slashed sidewalls and was able to wrap a loop of floss around the pawls which was enough to get the cassette back on. Crisis everted a baggage carousel 2. Not a fan of the friction fit cassette. I think DT swiss is easier to deal with though.
    Did you try spinning the freehub as you gentlyish pushed down? That’s always worked for me, including the Neo hub that I swapped between XD and MS eleventy times recently.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  11. #5436
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    11,220
    need new rear derailleur on Shimano 11 speed 1x drivetrain

    current one is XT medium cage

    LBS has XT long cage in stock - will I have to adjust my chain length or can I just swap this on and go?

  12. #5437
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    Jan 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by bennymac View Post
    need new rear derailleur on Shimano 11 speed 1x drivetrain
    current one is XT medium cage
    LBS has XT long cage in stock - will I have to adjust my chain length or can I just swap this on and go?
    Chain length can stay the same.
    The official method of chain length measurement from Shimano for 1x11 is to wrap the chain around the biggest cog on the cassette, bypass the derailleur, and wrap it around the chainring and add 2 links.

  13. #5438
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    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    The official method of chain length measurement from Shimano for 1x11 is to wrap the chain around the biggest cog on the cassette, bypass the derailleur, and wrap it around the chainring and add 2 links.
    *with the suspension compressed.

  14. #5439
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    Dec 2005
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    Thanks guys

  15. #5440
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    Dec 2010
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    I use a rubber band for the pawl trick

  16. #5441
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    *with the suspension compressed.
    Technically it should be in the suspension stroke where the chain growth is at the greatest length.
    Not all leverage ratios have the greatest chain length at full compression.
    But yes you are correct, and now we are just talking semantics.

  17. #5442
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    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    I use a rubber band for the pawl trick
    A rubber band is not ideal when you accidentally pull the freehub off when you already have a 51t cassette mounted.

  18. #5443
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    Technically it should be in the suspension stroke where the chain growth is at the greatest length.
    Not all leverage ratios have the greatest chain length at full compression.
    But yes you are correct, and now we are just talking semantics.
    That's true. But measuring that is a pain in the ass, and holding the suspension at that point while trying to size a chain is an even bigger pain in the ass. It's a whole lot easier to just remove the shock and bottom the bike, and it's close enough to not matter on every bike I've done it on.

  19. #5444
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Chamonix
    Posts
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    Howdy experts. I got my Madonna V2.2 last week and it's ridiculously good. Heavy but damn smooth and solid. I thought a Lyrik would be plenty fork for me, as it has been in the past, but I can push the Madonna so much harder than my Patrol so a 180mm Zeb is on its way to me now and I'll cut my losses and sell the Lyrik with just a few rides on it.

    The 205x60mm Super Deluxe Coil feels great but the option to convert it to 205x65mm while keeping the 60mm rocker has got me thinking. This option has been confirmed by Raaw, existing owners, and Pinkbike did their review on the V1 with this configuration, and I measured frame clearance with the shock removed just to be sure, so no issues in theory. Maximum travel effectively bumps up from 160mm to 172mm. I believe the 205x60mm Super Deluxe Coil is identical to the 205x65mm but with an external 5mm spacer on the shaft, but I'll speak to the suspension shop I use.

    With the current setup I did some hucks-to-flat down stairs with various springs and the Reverse Components sag meter to measure travel, and with a 450 spring I have 29% sag and felt a slight bottom-out (3mm stroke unused according to the sag meter, which must just be the bottom-out bumper fully compressed), but don't feel it bottom-out on the trail so I'm good with that springrate. Here's my question: if I converted to 65mm stroke but kept the same spring the bike should feel and perform the same but I'll just have a little extra travel at the deep end in case I ever get a bit too rowdy, plus have the option to put a softer spring on there for more travel if I ever want to, eg. big park days. Right?

    The shock requires considerable disassembly to remove the spacer so I would have my shop do it, so I'm thinking next year when I get it serviced why not just get this done too?

    And some bike porn for you:

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ID:	380417

    Click image for larger version. 

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  20. #5445
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Hyde Park, Vt
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    Quote Originally Posted by LC View Post
    Howdy experts. I got my Madonna V2.2 last week and it's ridiculously good. Heavy but damn smooth and solid. I thought a Lyrik would be plenty fork for me, as it has been in the past, but I can push the Madonna so much harder than my Patrol so a 180mm Zeb is on its way to me now and I'll cut my losses and sell the Lyrik with just a few rides on it.

    The 205x60mm Super Deluxe Coil feels great but the option to convert it to 205x65mm while keeping the 60mm rocker has got me thinking. This option has been confirmed by Raaw, existing owners, and Pinkbike did their review on the V1 with this configuration, and I measured frame clearance with the shock removed just to be sure, so no issues in theory. Maximum travel effectively bumps up from 160mm to 172mm. I believe the 205x60mm Super Deluxe Coil is identical to the 205x65mm but with an external 5mm spacer on the shaft, but I'll speak to the suspension shop I use.

    With the current setup I did some hucks-to-flat down stairs with various springs and the Reverse Components sag meter to measure travel, and with a 450 spring I have 29% sag and felt a slight bottom-out (3mm stroke unused according to the sag meter, which must just be the bottom-out bumper fully compressed), but don't feel it bottom-out on the trail so I'm good with that springrate. Here's my question: if I converted to 65mm stroke but kept the same spring the bike should feel and perform the same but I'll just have a little extra travel at the deep end in case I ever get a bit too rowdy, plus have the option to put a softer spring on there for more travel if I ever want to, eg. big park days. Right?

    The shock requires considerable disassembly to remove the spacer so I would have my shop do it, so I'm thinking next year when I get it serviced why not just get this done too?

    And some bike porn for you:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	p6pb21009996.jpg 
Views:	100 
Size:	854.4 KB 
ID:	380417

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	p6pb21009997.jpg 
Views:	104 
Size:	721.2 KB 
ID:	380418
    nice Bike man, I would say that as long as the rear wheel at full compression with a 172mm of travel does hit the frame or seat you would be good to go.

  21. #5446
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    Murdered !!! Man thats nice

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  22. #5447
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    Apr 2004
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    Chamonix
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushwacka View Post
    nice Bike man, I would say that as long as the rear wheel at full compression with a 172mm of travel does hit the frame or seat you would be good to go.
    I know that the wheel has clearance, that's not the issue. I'm just wondering if there's any impact of effectively converting the shock to a longer stroke but (most of the time) running a spring that's too stiff to use all of that new stroke. If it'll still ride the same as its current configuration then I don't see any downsides, but I'll have the option to experiment with a softer spring for more travel if I want.

  23. #5448
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    Sep 2006
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    North Van
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    Quote Originally Posted by LC View Post
    The shock requires considerable disassembly to remove the spacer
    It’s a plastic spacer that sits under the bottom-out bumper, right? Couldn’t you cut it out without taking the shock apart?

  24. #5449
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    Apr 2004
    Location
    Chamonix
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    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    Murdered !!! Man thats nice
    My first two bikes were black, and the last two were bright because I just took what was available. I figured if I was going black this time I'd go all-in. I love how Raaw ships the bike with black-on-black decals. The chain was the trickiest part - seems like this KMC one is the only black 11 speed on the market - so far so good. My Zeb is matt black and will have its stickers removed unless I can find someone to make some gloss diecuts. I did consider eeWings cranks but couldn't find them in black and like the full XT workingman's build. Maybe next year if I feel like spending €1000 on cranks.

  25. #5450
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    Apr 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by D(C) View Post
    It’s a plastic spacer that sits under the bottom-out bumper, right? Couldn’t you cut it out without taking the shock apart?
    Yeah that's right, it's just a 5mm plastic disc under the bumper. So I could probably cut it out carefully. Hmm. If I'd thought this through I would have just bought a 205x65mm stroke shock from the start. I'm really happy with the bike as-is but I like to experiment - shorter chainstay chips available for the Madonna V2.2 soon too hopefully. I'll ask Raaw sometime about the shock.

    I rode some steeper, slower tech trails today and the bike just ate it up. This is my first 29 and the wheelsize is a more subtle change than expected. The fit of the bike probably makes the biggest difference for me - 25mm longer reach and 60mm longer wheelbase than my 2017 Patrol so more stable but still feel I can move it around fine.

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