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Thread: Ask the experts
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08-04-2022, 02:54 PM #8576
Tire spooging question -
Maxxis Ardent 2.4 is weeping (Stan’s) spooge around the bead
Running 20-25psi (I’m 205 in full kit/pack)
It’s been about a year since I added any sealant
It’s not losing air
Question - how much new sealant should I add?
- none, just ride it till it leaks
- couple of oz should do it
- the whole 4oz bottle
TIA
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08-04-2022, 03:15 PM #8577Registered User
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IME the Maxxis Minion & aggressor always weeped a bit thru the sidewalls on my 5.5 but it didnt really seem to matter
the Maxxis with the DD casings I have this year do not seem to weep maybe cuz they are 120x2 TPI ?
they don't really lose much air so I thot about it but have not added any stans
I would at least check before every ride which you should do anyhowLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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08-04-2022, 03:56 PM #8578
I'd blame in on those janky rims before the tire.
Put 2ozs in there and 1 gram in your lungs and go pedal.
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08-04-2022, 04:34 PM #8579Registered User
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- Dec 2010
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Weeping through the sidewall is one thing (which I’ve never seen - maybe a non-tubeless-ready tire thing?
When I see it seeping at the bead it means the tire is getting dry - time to put more goop in. This would make total sense if you haven’t re-gooped for a year.
Not sure why this happens (since tire is not losing air and I don’t need to reseat the bead). But every time I see this and replenish the juice, it stops happening.
I use 2 oz for my27.5 x 2.5’s. 3 oz would be fine too I think. 4oz seems overkill for all but huge tires.
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08-04-2022, 04:40 PM #8580Registered User
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it weeped thru my new DHRII on the sidewall and that was a brand new tubeless ready tire, the tire never really lost much air and it didnt seem to matter but it was a little disconcerting I supose
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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08-04-2022, 06:53 PM #8581
Ask the experts
Part of the reason of that sealant is to seal small punctures. That dried stuff maybe helped you get set up tubeless when it wasn’t so dry… but ain’t doing much with the next goat head or sharp rock that gives you a small tear.
But 2 oz in and ride those knobs off like the guy in the idiot thread
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08-05-2022, 09:08 AM #8582
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08-05-2022, 09:49 AM #8583
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08-05-2022, 05:45 PM #8584Registered User
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Brake question. Been hitting the bike park at our hill a lot more this season and my brakes just aren't up to the task. Previously I've run older XTs but have a 2018 Nomad with sram code R and avid 180 rotors. Thinking maybe throwing some Saints and bigger rotors(previously running 203s). What's the latest and greatest stopping power out there now. I don't pay enough attention and know the collective has the knowledge. Thanks fellas.
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08-05-2022, 06:26 PM #8585
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08-05-2022, 09:32 PM #8586Dad core
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08-05-2022, 10:05 PM #8587
Swap for bigger rotors first. If that doesn't get you the power you want, swap the code r levers for code rsc's. The calipers are the same, so you'd just need to swap in the lever bodies and bleed the system. Rsc's are much, much better than r's. More power, more modulation, and more adjustable.
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08-05-2022, 11:10 PM #8588
Yeah old bike had guides, new bike had guides. why do these new ones suddenly suck so much? Oh, R vs RSC. The rsc has a different linkage that gives more leverage. Picked up some new levers, brakes are fine now. But still, how is a modern 4-pot brake so weak? My nearby trail is fast and smooth with a couple of tight switchbacks all in a row at the bottom and my fingers would hurt by the end of it. sram i guess.
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08-06-2022, 08:14 AM #8589
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08-06-2022, 09:32 AM #8590
These guys still say a code rsc will stop you quicker than a saint (or any other shimano brake):
https://enduro-mtb.com/en/best-mtb-disc-brake-can-buy/
Makes me really want to try some trick stuffs though.
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08-06-2022, 09:54 AM #8591
Brakes….
I’ve had most SRAMs the last few years, no problems really. Used SRAM rotors and pads and never did any bed in.
Now, on my Kavenz, due to the design of the rear triangle I needed 203s, so I threw on some Galfer rotors. The 2mm ones. Still SRAM pads.
Even did the SRAM bed in procedure.
Both front and rear feels and works great, but both make a sound I’ve never heard before. When riding relatively fast and using the brakes there is this sound. Imagine a wheel spinning fast and then you but a piece of paper between the spokes. Frrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
15 rides in, it has sort of disappeared/weakened on the rear, but still the same on the front.
It’s not really that annoying, but whenever I ride by someone I feel like a dentist with a fancy bike I can’t set up or maintain.
Anybody experience something similar? Try Galfer pads?
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08-06-2022, 10:01 AM #8592
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08-06-2022, 10:26 AM #8593
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08-06-2022, 10:31 AM #8594Registered User
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08-06-2022, 11:25 AM #8595
Did I F something up? I replaced a cassette (sunrace) on my DT Swiss 350 hub w/ XD driver and when I went to set the wheel down on its side the entire cassette and driver slid off. I put everything back together but the cassette+driver still slide off pretty easy exposing the hub internals. I put the wheel back on the bike and things seem to be working fine, but this does not seem righteous
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08-06-2022, 11:27 AM #8596
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08-06-2022, 12:17 PM #8597
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08-06-2022, 12:33 PM #8598
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08-06-2022, 12:53 PM #8599Registered User
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Yeah I have had no issues with any XTs I've had but told myself I'd run these till I had an issue and swap out. Sounds like I should try new rotors/pads first. I just never really liked them. I guess I liked them more than the old avid juicy 7s so theres that...
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08-06-2022, 01:03 PM #8600Registered User
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Juicy 7 is pretty close to 20 yrs old, I would call that at least 1 generation ago as bikes components go
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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