Ask the experts

[Andeh]

Recommendations on EDC 100 pump vs 70?

I think that's best answered by "How often do you flat?" I got the 70 because I almost never use it, so I'm willing to spend another minute or so pumping the one time per year I flat in exchange for a lighter/smaller pump.

[Dee Hubbs]

Recommendations on EDC 100 pump vs 70?

The 100cc Pump holds the EDC Tool with a 20g CO2 attached (or holds EDC Tool and the Storage Capsule attached to the tool)
The 70cc Pump holds the EDC Tool (no no Storage Capsule or CO2 attached) or holds just a 20g CO2 inside.

IMO the 70cc is good (big) enough to fill a MTB tire, obviously the 100cc faster. To me its a matter of how big of pump you want to carry, and how much of the EDC package you want to fit inside the pump.

[summit]

The weight difference between 100 and 70 is small and it is mostly about whether you want to have the extra internal storage plug/pliers or a CO2 (remember the valve on the OneUp pump doubles as a CO2 inflator), which would make me lean 100 if I was going for a OneUp pump. Unless you want it for a fat/plus bike, then 100 for sure.

Gauges, I've had 3 digital gauges including a lezyne and a top peak.

Accuguage manual gauge is far better IMO, particularly if you have any gunking of your valve. You see the needle move whereas you don't know at what point the digi decides to read. Cheaper than a digi too.

[cydwhit]

What's the mind meld's top choice for an AFFORDABLE hardtail in the 120-140ish fork range? Doesn't need to be hardcore, looking for more trail geo. Just sold my Spur frame, and am looking for something cheap to hold me over until the next bike gets released. Something like a Honzo, or a Ragley Big Al probably?

[carlh]

The nukeproofs are a good value if they are in stock

[VTskibum]

The nukeproofs are a good value if they are in stock

Definitely look to be from what I’ve seen. Also see Marin San Quentin’s w good geo in this price range, though they’re 27.5 wheels. That may or may not be a positive depending on what you’re looking for. Curious about them for my tween as do it all; XC and pumptrack bike


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[jacob_dbu]

What's the mind meld's top choice for an AFFORDABLE hardtail in the 120-140ish fork range? Doesn't need to be hardcore, looking for more trail geo. Just sold my Spur frame, and am looking for something cheap to hold me over until the next bike gets released. Something like a Honzo, or a Ragley Big Al probably?

If you're looking to sell it after you get the next one, then I'd go for something that holds it's value well. Specialized Fuse would be good in addition to the Honzo.

[skaredshtles]

How often are you using a mini pump that any sort of use rises to the level of masochism?

That's kinda why I'm not picky about mini pumps (other than hating lezynes). It's like once or twice a year that I'm using one. If I'm in a hurry, I'm using co2.

This. Mini pump is a tool of last resort. I don't even remember the last time I used mine.

I should probably check to make sure it's still in my pack.

[skaredshtles]

I end up using one almost every time I ride...

I suppose I could check and set my tire pressure with my floor pump before I leave the house, but I forget so I end up doing it at the trailhead (and most rides it seems like it could use a few pumps).

I could also put the floor pump in the car...but for just topping off to make up for pressure loss, my 15-20 year old blackburn pump works fine and I'm sure my new one will as well.

You gotta hold it right, but but the lack of a hose doesn't seem to be causing me any issues. Maybe I'd feel different if I were using a super tiny pump, but for the ones that are closer to 10" long I don't mind the right-angle head.

A wise man once said, "ALWAYS take the floor pump."

[robnow]

Recommendations on EDC 100 pump vs 70?

As the others have said, not much of a weight penalty and can store more in the 100. I own the 70 (w/ tool, can't really fit anything else in there) and happened to find a 100 (w/ tool, pliers, and plugs) on the trail a week ago. Nobody has claimed ownership yet so I've been enjoying rockin' the 100.

I pretty much never use pumps in the field, however lately I've been ending my rides on our bigger jump/flow trail and airing up specifically for those laps.

[Dantheman]

What's the recommended course of action if you get attacked by a leopard?

https://twitter.com/Independent/stat...d-to-canada%2F

[toast2266]

What's the recommended course of action if you get attacked by a leopard?

https://twitter.com/Independent/stat...d-to-canada%2F

Fend it off with your mini pump?

[skaredshtles]

What's the recommended course of action if you get attacked by a leopard?

https://twitter.com/Independent/stat...d-to-canada%2F

Some of those responses... GOLD!

[Eluder]

Some of those responses... GOLD!

"Even wild animals hate cyclists."

[rideit]

Fend it off with your mini pump?

70, or 100?

Or c02?

[XXX-er]

You probably want one of them spoke-proof pumps like that Italian fella

[Iowagriz]

Proper way to measure a chain?

I have the Park Tool chain checker. .75 indicated on one end and I think 1.0 on the other end. I just removed the chain and cleaned it, does it need to be under tension to measure? Can I measure while hanging it from the rafter or does it need to be back on the bike?

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[simple]

It needs to be on the bike

[XXX-er]

I got the same guage, myself I try and force the go-no-go guage in there so the chain is in effect under tension,

I don't think Chain needs to be on the bike but you are trying to measure wear & stretch so I stretch it out to measure

[Gunder]

I got the same guage, myself I try and force the go-no-go guage in there so the chain is in effect under tension,

I don't think Chain needs to be on the bike but you are trying to measure wear & stretch so I stretch it out to measure

This is correct, the tool is designed to apply tension to the chain when it checks it, as it is just measuring stretch. It does not need to be on the bike.

[singlesline]

But don't try to measure a freshly queso'd chain!

When I had a fixed gear commuter, there was a very noticeable difference between a freshly waxed chain and one with a couple miles on it and I'd have to adjust the dropouts.

[climberevan]

Proper way to measure a chain?

I have the Park Tool chain checker. .75 indicated on one end and I think 1.0 on the other end. I just removed the chain and cleaned it, does it need to be under tension to measure? Can I measure while hanging it from the rafter or does it need to be back on the bike?

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The 12s SRAM chains (and others?) need the new style checkers that have 2 opposing hooks on one end because the rollers are slightly different in diameter. Park CC4 etc. They work on all chains, so I've retired my old style one. It's easy to do on the bike but they are fine off of it too.

If you have a new one, you can hang them both from a nail or something through a link and compare the total length. If you measure 100cm to a pin on the new one, and the old one is more than 100.5cm, there's your .5%. Extrapolate as necessary. 12s recommends replacing at .5%.

Agreed on the fresh queso. It definitely takes up some slack, so ride 10 miles or so to be sure before measuring.

Edited to fix missing decimal points. Doh.

[Boissal]

OK, talk to me about reducing lever stroke on brakes. On both my Shimano and Hayes brakes I'm starting to get annoyed at how much I have to pull the lever to contact the pads. What I want is a lever at maximum reach (as far away from the bar as possible) so my index is almost fully extended. Then I want minimum stroke so I barely have to move my index back to get the pads to bite. The more stroke I need the more pumped my hands get. It's not a fading problem either, both sets of brakes are consistent as hell, I just want less stroke. Levers are adjusted as far as they'll go reach-wise but the amount of stroke is such that I have to pull them halfway to the bar.

On the Shimano brakes I've played with the weird screw that supposedly has an effect on that, it does nothing. I've pumped the lever a couple times without the wheel in place to advance the pistons but that's only a temporary solution and eventually things equalize back to the same spot. I've tried overfilling the system by bleeding without the bleed block in place and with the pistons partially extended. Still nothing, it always goes back to the same stroke.

I haven't messed with the Hayes much as they have less than 100 miles on them. The bleed kit is much nicer on those brakes so I can probably get more control in the system, I just don't have a strong enough understanding of the hydraulics to know what the trick is to achieve the feel I want.

[J. Barron DeJong]

OK, talk to me about reducing lever stroke on brakes. On both my Shimano and Hayes brakes I'm starting to get annoyed at how much I have to pull the lever to contact the pads. What I want is a lever at maximum reach (as far away from the bar as possible) so my index is almost fully extended. Then I want minimum stroke so I barely have to move my index back to get the pads to bite. The more stroke I need the more pumped my hands get. It's not a fading problem either, both sets of brakes are consistent as hell, I just want less stroke. Levers are adjusted as far as they'll go reach-wise but the amount of stroke is such that I have to pull them halfway to the bar.

On the Shimano brakes I've played with the weird screw that supposedly has an effect on that, it does nothing. I've pumped the lever a couple times without the wheel in place to advance the pistons but that's only a temporary solution and eventually things equalize back to the same spot. I've tried overfilling the system by bleeding without the bleed block in place and with the pistons partially extended. Still nothing, it always goes back to the same stroke.

I haven't messed with the Hayes much as they have less than 100 miles on them. The bleed kit is much nicer on those brakes so I can probably get more control in the system, I just don't have a strong enough understanding of the hydraulics to know what the trick is to achieve the feel I want.

At the caliper, what affects lever stroke is how far back the pistons retract after each braking event. That retraction is due to the design of the piston seals. Can’t be changed. Try to overextend the pistons, overfill, etc. they’re going to gradually work their way back to normal after a while.

At the lever, if there is a free stroke adjustment, it is adjusting the point at which fluid stops being pushed to the fluid reservoir in the lever and starts being pushed to the caliper when you squeeze the lever:

Shimano: Free stroke is defined as stroke of the lever before the pads start touching the rotor. The free stroke screw simply changes the starting point of the master cylinder piston. If the screw is all the way in, the master cylinder piston will be all the way in, and the free stroke will be the shortest. Turn the screw out a bit and the master cylinder will start further out. Because it has to travel further before it closes off the reservoir port, the free stroke is longer. In the picture of the clear brake posted above, the free stroke screw is turned all the way in.

I think the issue with the Shimano adjustment here is that even at fully open the master cylinder piston is very close to blocking the transfer port, so there’s a limited range of useable adjustment (speculating here).

[toast2266]

At the caliper, what affects lever stroke is how far back the pistons retract after each braking event. That retraction is due to the design of the piston seals. Can’t be changed. Try to overextend the pistons, overfill, etc. they’re going to gradually work their way back to normal after a while.

Isn't the retraction distance a function of master cylinder size and piston size? When you let go of the lever, X amount of fluid flows "backwards." The pistons will retract whatever distance is allowed by that volume of fluid flow. A bigger master cylinder means more fluid flow. Bigger pistons (and more of them) take up more volume, which means less movement for a given amount of fluid flow.

Which is to say, a pad advance should work. It's just removing the space between the retracted pistons and the point at which the pad contacts the rotor. Of course, this means that when the brakes are open there's minimal clearance between the pads and the rotors so there'll likely be some rubbing.

But advancing the pads means there's more fluid in the system - the space behind the pistons in the calipers is now larger. Usually there's enough fluid in the reservoir to accommodate that, but now there might not be enough fluid in the reservoir (which is why the pads reset after a little while - fluid has flowed back into the reservoir). So after advancing the pads, you might need to add a little fluid to the system to bring the reservoir level up to "normal" and make the whole system run correctly with the pistons advanced.