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Thread: Ask the experts
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06-17-2022, 05:10 AM #8151
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06-17-2022, 09:50 AM #8152
That’s great info, have you seen an Installation proceedure video?
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
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06-17-2022, 10:22 AM #8153
1) install pedal
2) spin pedal
3) if it’s rubbing against the crank, you need the spacer. If not, you don’t.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR ForumsHowever many are in a shit ton.
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06-17-2022, 11:15 AM #8154
What pedals have <1mm clearance between the pedal and crank arm?
I think the washers are mostly just to keep the aluminum inserts / crank arms from getting bungled up when a steel pedal is tightened into them. Which generally isn't an issue if you're not over tightening the pedals.
Some people act like they're for adjusting q-factor, but I'm entirely skeptical that 99.9% of people can notice that difference.
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06-17-2022, 11:28 AM #8155Registered User
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Cross-post from RM: I've got a brake question. I've noticed that recently on my brakes (Code RSCs, 200mm HS2 rotors, MTX Gold pads), that after a typical descent where I'm on the brakes a lot, I have to move the rear brake's contact point adjust out 1-2 clicks. It started a few months back, where this would happen every few rides, and it's getting to the point where I find myself doing this nearly every ride. I just bled the brakes last month and while they felt a bit fresher after, it didn't really make the problem go away. Brake bleed was just a standard 2 syringe bleed, not a full flush, but the fluid wasn't super nasty. What's the most likely culprit - needing new pads? I admit I haven't checked the thickness - just eyeballed them and it seems to have enough material left. They're not making any noise or smell, and the rotors are brown not blue. When I bled them, I checked the piston movement and it seemed good. I haven't noticed any signs of fluid loss (oily grime accumulation on the MC or caliper).
My "typical descent" is a trail that starts out flowy and moderate grade where you're on and off the brakes, then gets into a faster steeper section where you're on the brakes most of the time, only letting off in short spurts. It's about 2 minutes long, 575 ft descent. When I brake, I always pull both at the same time, just varying relative front/rear pressure for control.
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06-17-2022, 11:41 AM #8156
Moving contact point out, meaning at the bottom of the descent, your lever is pulling closer to the bar than it did at the beginning of the descent?
If it's noticeably different over a 575ft descent, that sounds like there's some air in the system that's making it's presence known when things warm up. I'd re-bleed and do some lever flicking while bleeding.
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06-17-2022, 11:56 AM #8157Registered User
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06-17-2022, 12:07 PM #8158
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06-17-2022, 12:13 PM #8159Registered User
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06-17-2022, 12:22 PM #8160
Yes, video is pretty straight forward.
They have 3 diaphragms,
9100 levers
x120 series
And Mechanical Road levers
No Di2 road levers at this point.
The replacement diaphragms are reserved for warranty and must be called in through customer service, Shimano hopes to have them in regular parts ordering soon.
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06-17-2022, 02:26 PM #8161
Gracias.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
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06-17-2022, 02:27 PM #8162one of those sickos
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Here's a Shimano road brake question, since we're on that topic.
My left MC doesn't like to return after pulling it in. I've fully disassembled the MC and the piston is a little worn, but it does seem to move freely in the bore. None of these parts appear to be replaceable. I've tried lubing it and spreading the return springs a little with small success. It's well bled, of course.
My ideas for fixing it are to further spread the springs (with the danger of breaking them) and polishing the piston with 1500 grit or more to remove the scoring. I'm hesitant because replacement shifters seem to be non-existent.
Oh, and this is an Ultegra Di2 shifter, FWIW. It has no bladder from what I can tell--just the reservoir cavity in the hood which leads into the piston chamber.ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.
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06-17-2022, 04:02 PM #8163
I’m willing to concede. My perspective is from running sram carbon cranks with big inside bearings like the Race Face Atlas and Spank Spike. Since I stopped running those pedals, I haven’t used a pedal washer.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR ForumsHowever many are in a shit ton.
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06-17-2022, 08:34 PM #8164
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06-17-2022, 08:43 PM #8165Registered User
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wow it sounds like you have already done this ^^ and are going to share this with everyone
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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06-17-2022, 10:07 PM #8166
I haven't, but reading through a couple pages it does seem pretty doable. Couple shims cut (backing plate shaped) to be held in place between the pads and the pistons and you just put them in when the pads thin a bit.
I haven't done that because I'm mostly wearing out Maguras, and they can scrape off all the pad material--if you do that overfill trick. But I'd rather add shims and then not have to take the fluid out when it's time for new pads.
Thanks, I think you convinced me!
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06-18-2022, 08:32 AM #8167
I would think shimming would reduce heat transfer for better or worse. Magura pads are expensive... but...
TruckerCo pads are so cheap that they make a good argument for not shimming/bleeding, but just rather swapping pads early.
You could even buy 4packs and collect the half worn pads and then after half wearing them all, do an overfill and cycle the pads back through. This is my current plan.
Today I'm frustrated because I barb/olived and did the perfect bleed on my Magura so I could take the XTs off. I'm now 99% sure the barb olive kit was wrong because fluid is coming out of the lever. The barb/olive came with an offbrand bleed kit from amazon that otherwise was great. Today I have to hunt down Magura barb/olive from local shops. Grrrr....Originally Posted by blurred
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06-18-2022, 12:21 PM #8168
I don't believe I've ever seen a brake caliper that was designed to increase heat transfer from pads to fluid. For good reason, in all the cases I'm familiar with, but I can see other approaches being possible.
I did quickly drop the idea of making aluminum shims for Maguras, though: the magnetic connection between piston and pad is way too good to mess up. The right answer appears to be plated steel washers.
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06-18-2022, 12:33 PM #8169
You could get some hope v4 rotors. Those things are around .5mm thicker than regular rotors.
Might need to file down your caliper a bit to get them to fit though.
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06-18-2022, 01:05 PM #8170
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06-19-2022, 04:11 PM #8171
Hey experts: Q on a crank/BB issue:
I am installing a SRAM GXP BB into a 73mm threaded mountain bike frame, and using a TruVativ Descendant carbon GXP crankset. Per instructions found online, I did not use any spacers between the BB and the BB shell on the bike. There is a dust cover over the BB bearing on each side.
Issue: when I torque down the crank to spec, it seems like it is side loading the BB bearings excessively - the crank arms spin in a loping sort of fashion, and there seems to be extra resistance (though not excessive) to spinning. Do I need to add a spacer between the BB and the BB shell? If so, to which side? Guessing non drive side so as not to mess with chainline.
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06-20-2022, 02:20 PM #8172
27in tires? My girlfriend has this silly old schwinn townie bike with 27in wheels/tires. Looking for new tires that are better than pure slicks. Not many options that I have found. Universal Cycles has a couple that would work.
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06-20-2022, 02:25 PM #8173
Sounds like something is too tight. Do those cranks have a preload adjuster on the non-drive side? If so, back it all the way off, tap the drive side crank with a rubber mallet just to set the cranks all the way over to the non-drive side, then hand tighten the preload adjuster so it makes solid contact, but isn't exerting much pressure on the bearing.
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06-20-2022, 03:01 PM #8174
Finding a shop with a Shimano direct mount chain ring tool is more of a challenge than I thought... 0/4
Originally Posted by blurred
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06-20-2022, 03:18 PM #8175
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