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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #8251
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    Jan 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by criscam View Post
    question regarding offset valve stem on rims....on my raceface rims, the valve stem is offset from the center and there's a small plastic shim on one side so it fits snug when tightened down. long story short, busted this and put in a new valve stem but doesn't have the shim so only about half the nut is in contact w the rim. rode it and seemed ok but should i seek out the same offset specific valve stem and swap it out w the regular one? hope this makes sense. can take pics if need be.
    I have the same rims and have one with the OG shim and one with just a standard mucoff and Iíve had no issues with the non shimmed one. I could easily be wrong but Iíve had no issues as of yet


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  2. #8252
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon3 View Post
    My Fox36 Factory Grip2 has started making a sharp loud cracking noise on hard compressions (not using full travel). It was brand new last winter and Iíve only got 48 hours on it.

    All the tuning is in the middle of the road, nothing full open or closed. Iím used to the fork making some noise but this is very loud and very different. Yes my headset is tight. Anybody got any ideas?
    I'd bet it's your steerer creaking in the crown. Sometimes you can replicate the sound by standing the bike vertically on the front wheel with the brake locked and bouncing the bike down kinda hard (so basically stressing the fork rearward).

    If that's it, you'll need a new csu. Fox will almost certainly cover it under warranty. You'll have some downtime though.

  3. #8253
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    Mar 2008
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    i've had creaking twice on a 36 and once on the zeb, the first time a shop manager/ mechanic guy told me he dropped the Fox and " cleaned all the shit of there" which stopped the creak

    I've since done it another time on the fox and now on the ZEB, I drop the fork clean & grease the stem/ spacers, there was some mud/ dirt in there, I didnt even touch the headset bearings and it stopped the creaking
    Last edited by XXX-er; 06-28-2022 at 10:14 AM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  4. #8254
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    i've had creaking twice on a 36 and once on the zeb, the first time a shop manager/ mechanic guy told me he dropped the Fox and " cleaned all the shit of there" which stopped the creak

    I've since done it another time on the fox and now on the ZEB, I drop the fork clean & grease the stem/ spacers, there was some mud/ dirt in there, I didnt even touch the headset bearings and it stopped the creaking
    Thanks guys, Iíll start by servicing the headset/crown race/bars and stem and see if it helps then ask Fox for help if it doesnít work. Luckily I kept my 34Rhythm as a backup so if they do take it back I wonít be lacking a bike.

  5. #8255
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    I was on a Moab trip ( hot/ dry/ dusty) when it starts creaking so I mentioned it to the mechanic ( manages a shop in a hot dry dusty place) he had the bike fixed so fast that I didnt even see him work on it so i'm wondering if he had seen that problem a bunch ... just dirt and dust ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  6. #8256
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    I've heard that loctite in the crown / steerer junction can solve it. Sounds like varying success with how long that lasts (or if it works at all), but I haven't tried it personally.

  7. #8257
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    Mar 2022
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    113
    You don't really need it in a day-trip first aid kit (can wait until you get home), but Tegaderm is fantastic stuff, especially for large abrasions or road rash.

    Sticks to the skin but not the wound. Waterproof so you can shower and sticky/flexible enough to use on moving parts. Lets the wound heal wet with no scabs forming which means faster healing, less scarring, no reopening scabs, no itching, etc.

    OBRA has some instructions for how to use vaseline to create a vent for fluid to drain: https://www.obra.org/wound_care.html but I don't think that complication is always necessary (can just change it if you have to).

    It seems easier to find these days--Walgreens almost always has several sizes to choose from and you can cut down large pieces. Kind of expensive but totally worth it.

    If you have an FSA with money left at the end of the year, stocking up on Tegaderm and other first aid supplies is a good way to use it up.

  8. #8258
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    Sep 2004
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    Hey experts: do I need to use a Shimano 203 to 180mm post mount caliper adapter to put a Shimano brake on a Lyrik (which has 180mm as the smallest rotor size)? Or will a 180mm to 160mm adapter work?
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  9. #8259
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    Shimano 203mm rotor? Then, yes, youíll need the F203P/PM adaptor. Some folks will use washers/shims with a standard 20mm adaptor.

  10. #8260
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    Quote Originally Posted by g_man80 View Post
    Shimano 203mm rotor? Then, yes, youíll need the F203P/PM adaptor. Some folks will use washers/shims with a standard 20mm adaptor.
    It's an Avid 203mm rotor, which I assume is the same size as a Shimano 203. Thanks - I'll order the right adapter.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  11. #8261
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    Oct 2010
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    Ask the experts

    Casual inspection of my headset shows the crown race is really badly pitted! The fork still spins nice and smooth but the race is definitely shot. Might have been contributing to the creak so Iíll see if it resolves after getting a new one in there. I run a Works Components -1.5 degree and it seems like it puts lots of extra pressure on the front of the crown race.
    Last edited by Falcon3; 06-28-2022 at 09:43 PM.

  12. #8262
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    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon3 View Post
    It was brand new last winter and I’ve only got 48 hours on it. ?
    is the head set also brand new, and yeah I think off-set head sets have a lot of stress on them
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  13. #8263
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    Oct 2003
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    Aspen
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    Is the DT Swiss 240s still the best option for a lightweight and durable hub? Any issues with the current version?

  14. #8264
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    Feb 2012
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    The new single side floating ratchet exp hubs are arguably worse and early production had issues where it would stick and not engage properly. But I have two sets that were made after the update and have no issues so far. MTB wheels are approaching 2k miles.

  15. #8265
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    Size up or size down on MTB frame for larger than normal armspan?

    I've been mostly out of the mountain bike game for more than a decade and geometry has changed a lot. Local shops still don't really have bikes in stock to buy, let alone demo, so I'll probably end up ordering something without riding it first.

    At 5'10" I'm usually between size M and L on most size charts, and conventional bike industry wisdom now seems to be to size up if in doubt. However, I have pretty long arms relative to the rest of me (ape index around +5 inches) and I'm seeing conflicting info on what this means for frame sizing. On one hand, it seems that a longer reach of a larger frame would make sense to match the longer reach of my arms, but on the other hand the "RAD" (Rider Area Distance) method says that because my hands are closer to my feet I should go smaller on the frame reach.

    This would be for something in the trail bike category, and my local trails tend to be more flat, twisty, and technical than high speed flow or gnarly descents.

  16. #8266
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    Aug 2002
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    PA
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    I'm similarly proportioned and these days at 5'11" would go Large on most bikes. My HT and FS are both around 460mm reach (so just over the RAD calc) w/ ~50mm stem and ~20 mm riser bars with a few spacers which is good. I'd like my FS bike to be a touch longer, but tradeoff is a bit more maneuverability perhaps. Not super sold on the RAD measurement, but find the slightly longer bikes way more confidence inspiring w/o giving up much on twisty and technical.

  17. #8267
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    Ask the experts

    Quote Originally Posted by TrueNorth View Post
    Size up or size down on MTB frame for larger than normal armspan?
    Iím in this boat too. 5-10Ē but a 6-3Ē wingspan. Iíd recommend going Large, but be aware, Iíve tried a bunch of large frames and what limits me on this is the droppers.

    My legs arenít long enough on most large frames to run anything bigger than a 150mm dropper, which sort of limits things depending on what youíre riding. My #1 bike now is the Transition Sentinel which can run a 210 with my inseam but Giant, Canyon, Marin, Santa Cruz, GG, Specialized, And several others just have too long of seat tubes to run longer than 150.

  18. #8268
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    Good point, I hadn't really thought about the dropper post sizing since I've never had one before. My legs are pretty average length for my height so I'll have to consider seat tube length (and I guess also standover height).

  19. #8269
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    Jan 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrueNorth View Post
    Good point, I hadn't really thought about the dropper post sizing since I've never had one before. My legs are pretty average length for my height so I'll have to consider seat tube length (and I guess also standover height).
    ymmv of course but I'll say for *our* flat, twisty, techy trails that lack high speed flow or gnarly descents, I've found that
    a) 150mm drop is plenty and
    b) I just don't get on with an overly steep seat tube that encourages/necessitates a longer travel dropper.

  20. #8270
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    Sep 2011
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    Flagstaff, AZ
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    My suggestion is also to size up. I'm 177 cm w/186 cm wingspan (5'9.75" tall, 6'1" wingspan), but relatively short legs (30" pants inseam). Mediums always felt cramped and when I hopped on friends' large bikes I felt right at home. Ordered a size L Raaw Madonna and it's been super comfy after figuring out bar height, etc.

    Be careful about steeper seat tubes and shorter (below 175/180) droppers. The main reason I sold a V2 Wildcat was I could only run a 160 dropper due to insertion depth and with the steep seat tube the saddle was in the way on anything decently steep, even little rockrolls.

  21. #8271
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    Counterpoint here: in the past month a couple of buddies who are both 6'1" decided their next bikes would be size L instead of XL after having to rent L bikesat various bikeparks. The feedback from both was that while the XL bikes are awesome for hauling ass and going straight through chunder they ended up having more fun on the shorter frames that didn't behave like aircraft carriers in tighter slightly slower and twistier terrain. If you don't feel cramped on the smaller frame and you ride with a more poppy playful style in terrain that isn't super fast and straight the smaller frame might make sense. Most recent frames seem to be able to accommodate massive droppers even in smaller sizes so that shouldn't be an issue.
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  22. #8272
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Counterpoint here: in the past month a couple of buddies who are both 6'1" decided their next bikes would be size L instead of XL after having to rent L bikesat various bikeparks. The feedback from both was that while the XL bikes are awesome for hauling ass and going straight through chunder they ended up having more fun on the shorter frames that didn't behave like aircraft carriers in tighter slightly slower and twistier terrain. If you don't feel cramped on the smaller frame and you ride with a more poppy playful style in terrain that isn't super fast and straight the smaller frame might make sense. Most recent frames seem to be able to accommodate massive droppers even in smaller sizes so that shouldn't be an issue.
    Yup. 6'1" here - have always ridden "L" frames. When I was looking back in '18, even then the LLS bikes I tried in a "L" were too big. I strongly considered getting a GG Megatrail and I would have gotten a "M" had I purchased one.

  23. #8273
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    Apr 2019
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    New Mexico
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    Ask the experts

    Canít get rid of squshiness in Tectro Orion 4F rear brake. Did full bleed with serenges twice.

    Did multiple burps with a funnel at the lever bleed port. 40 minutes plus of tapping on the line and flicking the brake and small bubbles are keep coming up. When they seem to stop and I close the system, I can still squish the lever all the way to the handle bar. Hang bike with front wheel up for a fee days, repeat the burp with funnel (another 40 minute of flicking and tapping) - same result.

    I used shimano oil. Did it not mix well with Tectro oil?

    I could have over extended one of the pistons. Did not see any oil coming out, pushed it back and it seems to operate fine butÖ. Is the air keep getting into the lines somehow?

    To add insult to injury, the brake is squeaking loudly right before it bites and fully stops the wheel. Ordered new pads and rotor to eliminate contamination issue.

    Whatís next? Keep bleeding till i get it right? Bring it to a shop? Buy new caliper?

    Update: took the pads out and the back of the pad some oil residue. Cleaned the pads, rotor, and the cylinders. Really took my time with the cylinders to make them move smoother. Bled the brake. Scored the disk and pads with sandpaper. Put everything together. Aligned the caliper to the rotor as well as i could. Rode around to bed-in the pads and the noise was gone. Tested the bike few hours later: noise is back. Will take a kook at the pads tomorrow to see if there are any fresh fluids near the cylinders.

    And I can still pull the lever all the way close to the bar after the pads bite inÖ
    Last edited by Lvovsky; 07-01-2022 at 08:21 PM.

  24. #8274
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    Oct 2017
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    Evergreen Co
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    Are Shimano 12 speed derailleur cages extra soft or something? In the past month I've bent two and because they're out of stock everywhere, I've ended up buying a new derailleur both times to keep my bike rolling. Once they're back in stock I'll repair the damaged ones.

    My hangers are staying perfectly true and I've never had this with X01. It could be just being unlucky but the cages keep getting slightly twisted (left or right) so it's impossible for it to shift properly. I've tried bending one back without success.

  25. #8275
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    NorCal coast
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    IME, Shimano <anything> is soft. Cassettes, derailleurs, rotors...

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