Ask the experts

[Beaver]

I've always thought I would lube my bike chain more if the lube was edible.

https://worldcondoms.com/products/du...erry-lube-50ml

[Dantheman]

Shop had no idea if the wheel was removed and re-installed before it was sold. Local Specialized dealer said to bring it in and that they haven't been seeing axles that were arriving over-tightened from the factory.

Took it to the local shop. Two techs try to remove the axle, then stop and say getting it out is going to break something and I should talk to the store I bought it from before they go further. Called them, spent 20 minutes on the phone with multiple people and came out with a plan to take it to their sister store in Orem. Walked back into the shop and they had gotten it out undamaged. They said that the threads were well greased and it was just torqued to the moon.

[VTskibum]

Good to hear that worked out! Now back to important things picking a crockpot and being a dick about it, but now with queso!!

F waxing chains, talk about marginal gains!?! I'm all for clean bike a few times a month and drip more frequently w/ a quick clean if needed, but cost of a chain is worth way more of my time than that level of anal retentiveness.

[nickwm21]

I don’t have a crockpot. Should I sousvide my chain or instapot?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[jackstraw]

Took it to the local shop. Two techs try to remove the axle, then stop and say getting it out is going to break something and I should talk to the store I bought it from before they go further. Called them, spent 20 minutes on the phone with multiple people and came out with a plan to take it to their sister store in Orem. Walked back into the shop and they had gotten it out undamaged. They said that the threads were well greased and it was just torqued to the moon.

That's nuts! And what a hassle.

[Dantheman]

That's nuts! And what a hassle.

At least I didn't have to drive to Orem and back, or fret about whether they'd actually be able to get a new axle. I'm also super psyched this wasn't just a dumbass home mechanic issue.

[bagtagley]

I don’t have a crockpot. Should I sousvide my chain or instapot?

Both. Chain and guac into a vacu sealed bag, bag into an insta pot of queso.

[Sandbox]

I don’t have a crockpot. Should I sousvide my chain or instapot?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

remember to throw it on the smoker for 12 hours to really let the wax settle in as well

[XXX-er]

Took it to the local shop. Two techs try to remove the axle, then stop and say getting it out is going to break something and I should talk to the store I bought it from before they go further. Called them, spent 20 minutes on the phone with multiple people and came out with a plan to take it to their sister store in Orem. Walked back into the shop and they had gotten it out undamaged. They said that the threads were well greased and it was just torqued to the moon.

those fucking azns with their cheap impact wrenches from Harbour Freight

[toast2266]

Without detracting from the obvious drivetrain efficiency benefits of queso, has anyone experimented with raclette lube?

[evdog]

y'all should spend more time doing trail maintenance instead of worrying about your chain cleanliness. Sound like a bunch of roadies!

^^^ This. Take your anger out on some poison oak, you'll feel much better....til you realize you missed some of it that got on your clothing and is now on your wrist/arm/neck/ankle etc. lol

[JPaul]

Without detracting from the obvious drivetrain efficiency benefits of queso, has anyone experimented with raclette lube?

Man, you are really committed to keeping drizzling as part of your process.

In that case, just get a chocolate fountain for the shop and pick up some high cocoa butter-content “lube” -> can go darker in dryer climates.

Protip: chains in bottom, eat only from upper tiers.

[jackstraw]

^^^ This. Take your anger out on some poison oak, you'll feel much better....til you realize you missed some of it that got on your clothing and is now on your wrist/arm/neck/ankle etc. lol

That shit is crazy in CA! We just have deer ticks, black flies, mosquitoes, and horse flies to annoy us.

[radam]

Riddle me this...

Installed a recently acquired, lightly used tire on a newly taped wheel. Final installation include a Tannus tubeless insert, but installed the tire without the insert and without any sealant at first, which is my usual test to make sure I'm not dealing with a lost cause. There was a bit of overnight air loss, but not bad considering no sealant. So I went ahead an installed the insert, added 2oz of sealant and figured I'd be good to go. But... not so much. Tire goes fully flat overnight for ~5 days straight now. After the first day I pulled the wheel off the bike and did the shake and spin move, and have also left it sitting around flat on its side, flipping once or twice a day. There was one 10 mile trail ride mixed in the middle of this stretch. Tire holds air fine (enough) for this length of time so that that air loss is not noticeable, particularly with the insert adding a lot of support.

I know the usual answer to this would be that either the tire has a pinhole leak or that something is not right with the tape job. So yesterday I filled up a shallow tub and submerged the tire, looking for bubbles. There were the faintest microbubbles from the sidewall in a few spots (though not big enough to break free from the tire and bubble up), but I saw no bubbles from the tread, at the spoke nipples and more importantly, from the valve.

So... where the air leaking from??? Should I just dump more sealant in? I know 2oz isn't a lot, particularly with the insert in there, but I also don't want to be dumping more in if I'm going to have to pull everything apart to inspect the rim tape. At the same time, almost any tape problem I've had has resulted in an air leak at the valve, and I'm not getting that here.

[Roxtar]

People, seriously...
I realize listening (in this case reading) is a lost art but my God, did any of you bother to read the posts you're commenting on?

Once more. This time please, pretty please with sugar on top, read the fuckin post.

An accepted part of drip lubing your chain is the need to clean it occasionally. Once a month or so. This act has been considered basic maintenance since the invention of the pedal. A standard way to do this, as mentioned on this forum many times (without howls of derision) is to remove the chain, soak it in some solvent, and then blow it out and replace/relube.

If you think this practice is over the top, anal retentive, try it once. What you'll find is the solvent being black as night and filled with grit. This is the shit that was in the inner working of your chain.
For those of you still reading, this grit is a bad thing.
That's why cleaning your chain has always been an accepted part of basic maintenance. It's not anal-retentive, it's just a best practice.
Toast, you say you're getting 2000 miles out of your driveline without ever cleaning it. OK, I believe you. (I'm not anal enough to count my mileage) Modern manufacturing is pretty amazing, better processes+better tolerances+better materials=better parts. However, perhaps with better maintenance you could be getting 3000 miles.
When a modern, top end, driveline cost north of $600, this once a month job might be worth it.

OK, the main part.

My entire point to the whole hot waxing thing is that the time argument doesn't fly. Hot waxing eliminates the need for the above cleaning process because it fills the rollers with lube and seals the chain from the elements. Even after a dusty or muddy ride, a 10 second rinse with the hose and your chain is spotless.

IF, repeat, IF you do the above cleaning procedure say, once a month, and drip lube on every 2-3 rides, you're spending more time on your chain than I am with hot waxing.

The actual waxing process takes essentially zero time; turn on the crockpot, drop in the chain, go about your business. Pull it out in 20 minute or so. Done.
The once a month chain changing will be done with either method.

Horse is (hopefully) now nothing but grit in the bottom of your chain cleaning bottle.

[EWG]

Ok here's another one that I'm hoping someone else has run into and solved.

Rockshox Reverb. In my garage this winter, around 35-40F, pushed it down to illustrate a point and it didn't come back up. Ironic. Waited till it warmed up outside 6 weeks later, brought it into the sun, warmed it up, now it pops up again and seems to be working fine.

Some googling seems to indicate this happens now and then to some folks, but not why. Anybody know what's going on and if I need to do something to the damn thing so it doesn't happen on the trail on some colder days now that the trails are clearing out?

[Roxtar]

Ok here's another one that I'm hoping someone else has run into and solved.

Rockshox Reverb. In my garage this winter, around 35-40F, pushed it down to illustrate a point and it didn't come back up. Ironic. Waited till it warmed up outside 6 weeks later, brought it into the sun, warmed it up, now it pops up again and seems to be working fine.

Some googling seems to indicate this happens now and then to some folks, but not why. Anybody know what's going on and if I need to do something to the damn thing so it doesn't happen on the trail on some colder days now that the trails are clearing out?

Is it the hydraulic actuator version or cable?
If hydraulic, the fluid could have just gotten too thick from the cold.

[Canada1]

Riddle me this...

Installed a recently acquired, lightly used tire on a newly taped wheel. Final installation include a Tannus tubeless insert, but installed the tire without the insert and without any sealant at first, which is my usual test to make sure I'm not dealing with a lost cause. There was a bit of overnight air loss, but not bad considering no sealant. So I went ahead an installed the insert, added 2oz of sealant and figured I'd be good to go. But... not so much. Tire goes fully flat overnight for ~5 days straight now. After the first day I pulled the wheel off the bike and did the shake and spin move, and have also left it sitting around flat on its side, flipping once or twice a day. There was one 10 mile trail ride mixed in the middle of this stretch. Tire holds air fine (enough) for this length of time so that that air loss is not noticeable, particularly with the insert adding a lot of support.

So... where the air leaking from??? Should I just dump more sealant in? I know 2oz isn't a lot, particularly with the insert in there, but I also don't want to be dumping more in if I'm going to have to pull everything apart to inspect the rim tape. At the same time, almost any tape problem I've had has resulted in an air leak at the valve, and I'm not getting that here.

I'd add another ounce and a little bit of glitter. Easier than a retape.

[El Chupacabra]

Is it the hydraulic actuator version or cable?
If hydraulic, the fluid could have just gotten too thick from the cold.

There's a cable lever for Reverbs? Usable for the posts that came with the hydraulic lever?

[geomorph]

People, seriously...
I realize listening (in this case reading) is a lost art but my God, did any of you bother to read the posts you're commenting on?

Once more. This time please, pretty please with sugar on top, read the fuckin post.

An accepted part of drip lubing your chain is the need to clean it occasionally. Once a month or so. This act has been considered basic maintenance since the invention of the pedal. A standard way to do this, as mentioned on this forum many times (without howls of derision) is to remove the chain, soak it in some solvent, and then blow it out and replace/relube.

If you think this practice is over the top, anal retentive, try it once. What you'll find is the solvent being black as night and filled with grit. This is the shit that was in the inner working of your chain.
For those of you still reading, this grit is a bad thing.
That's why cleaning your chain has always been an accepted part of basic maintenance. It's not anal-retentive, it's just a best practice.
Toast, you say you're getting 2000 miles out of your driveline without ever cleaning it. OK, I believe you. (I'm not anal enough to count my mileage) Modern manufacturing is pretty amazing, better processes+better tolerances+better materials=better parts. However, perhaps with better maintenance you could be getting 3000 miles.
When a modern, top end, driveline cost north of $600, this once a month job might be worth it.

OK, the main part.

My entire point to the whole hot waxing thing is that the time argument doesn't fly. Hot waxing eliminates the need for the above cleaning process because it fills the rollers with lube and seals the chain from the elements. Even after a dusty or muddy ride, a 10 second rinse with the hose and your chain is spotless.

IF, repeat, IF you do the above cleaning procedure say, once a month, and drip lube on every 2-3 rides, you're spending more time on your chain than I am with hot waxing.

The actual waxing process takes essentially zero time; turn on the crockpot, drop in the chain, go about your business. Pull it out in 20 minute or so. Done.
The once a month chain changing will be done with either method.

Horse is (hopefully) now nothing but grit in the bottom of your chain cleaning bottle.

For fucks sake the thread is ask the experts not ask the pedants

[geomorph]

That shit is crazy in CA! We just have deer ticks, black flies, mosquitoes, and horse flies to annoy us.

Don't forget the poison ivy. That shit is thick on some of the trails around here.

[Roxtar]

There's a cable lever for Reverbs? Usable for the posts that came with the hydraulic lever?

I was thinking about the wolf tooth adaptor

[EWG]

Is it the hydraulic actuator version or cable?
If hydraulic, the fluid could have just gotten too thick from the cold.

Yes, hydraulic. Huh. That's kind of a duh moment. Thanks for pointing that out - I should have thought of that.

Is this an ongoing issue with them because of fluid spec or is it just likely due to old fluid that needs to be replaced? Have you seen this happen? It's a first for me.

[jackstraw]

Ok here's another one that I'm hoping someone else has run into and solved.

Rockshox Reverb. In my garage this winter, around 35-40F, pushed it down to illustrate a point and it didn't come back up. Ironic. Waited till it warmed up outside 6 weeks later, brought it into the sun, warmed it up, now it pops up again and seems to be working fine.

Some googling seems to indicate this happens now and then to some folks, but not why. Anybody know what's going on and if I need to do something to the damn thing so it doesn't happen on the trail on some colder days now that the trails are clearing out?

Yeah, that happened with my old Reverb all the time. Completely useless once it hit 45 degrees or so. My 2019 Reverb does not have that issue for some reason. I'm not sure what the problem was on the old one, but it was a pia.
I just installed a Fox Transfer last night and a cable vs the hydraulic just seems so much simpler and it works.

Edit to say...that was my 3rd "old" one via warranty. They all sucked in the cold. The newer ones have been updated with some sort of change internally. They are just over-engineered.

[XXX-er]

People, seriously...
I realize listening (in this case reading) is a lost art but my God, did any of you bother to read the posts you're commenting on?

Once more. This time please, pretty please with sugar on top, read the fuckin post.

An accepted part of drip lubing your chain is the need to clean it occasionally. Once a month or so. This act has been considered basic maintenance since the invention of the pedal. A standard way to do this, as mentioned on this forum many times (without howls of derision) is to remove the chain, soak it in some solvent, and then blow it out and replace/relube.

If you think this practice is over the top, anal retentive, try it once. What you'll find is the solvent being black as night and filled with grit. This is the shit that was in the inner working of your chain.
For those of you still reading, this grit is a bad thing.
That's why cleaning your chain has always been an accepted part of basic maintenance. It's not anal-retentive, it's just a best practice.
Toast, you say you're getting 2000 miles out of your driveline without ever cleaning it. OK, I believe you. (I'm not anal enough to count my mileage) Modern manufacturing is pretty amazing, better processes+better tolerances+better materials=better parts. However, perhaps with better maintenance you could be getting 3000 miles.
When a modern, top end, driveline cost north of $600, this once a month job might be worth it.

OK, the main part.

My entire point to the whole hot waxing thing is that the time argument doesn't fly. Hot waxing eliminates the need for the above cleaning process because it fills the rollers with lube and seals the chain from the elements. Even after a dusty or muddy ride, a 10 second rinse with the hose and your chain is spotless.

IF, repeat, IF you do the above cleaning procedure say, once a month, and drip lube on every 2-3 rides, you're spending more time on your chain than I am with hot waxing.

The actual waxing process takes essentially zero time; turn on the crockpot, drop in the chain, go about your business. Pull it out in 20 minute or so. Done.
The once a month chain changing will be done with either method.

Horse is (hopefully) now nothing but grit in the bottom of your chain cleaning bottle.

Uh the label on the squirt bottle sez don't degrease, just drip more liquid wax on

https://www.squirtcyclingproducts.co...HowTo-RevB.pdf