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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #10501
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
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    139
    Perfect! Appreciate the help.

    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    1. it depends. Assuming that both stems have the bar part equally spaced from the top and bottom of the steerer part, I think the bar would be 6mm lower (half the total stack height difference).

    2. you can use the same crown race. Per CC website: ZS62/40 will take a 52mm bearing, IS52/40 will take a 52mm bearing, so same crown race. You can use 110 crown races with 40 headsets and vice versa.

  2. #10502
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Mexico 2.0
    Posts
    818
    Any recommendations for threaded bottom brackets that fit a 30mm spindle, won't turn to notchy crap in a few months, and are reasonably inexpensive? Or should I just try harder to find Shimano cranks I like so I can keep using $25 BBs?
    kittyhump.com - Fund Max, Cat Appreciation, Bike

  3. #10503
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Eugenio Oregón
    Posts
    8,382
    I’ve been using Real World Cycling 30mm BB with angular contact bearings to good results.
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  4. #10504
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Treading Water
    Posts
    6,686
    Quote Originally Posted by Toddball View Post
    Or should I just try harder to find Shimano cranks I like so I can keep using $25 BBs?
    Yes


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    However many are in a shit ton.

  5. #10505
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    16,805
    Ugh, so I have never had new cable/housing/chain make shifting WORSE. Shifting into bigger cogs is almost normal and can be tuned with barrel adjustments......shifting down to smaller cogs is all fucked up. Sometimes you dump 3 or 4 gears and the chain goes nowhere at all. Then the shifter feels like it's not even connected to anything when you try to shift back the other way. My memory is fuzzy, but I think I had this happen before when the spring/internals went bad on a 12spd XT shifter before?

  6. #10506
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    North Van
    Posts
    3,757
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Ugh, so I have never had new cable/housing/chain make shifting WORSE. Shifting into bigger cogs is almost normal and can be tuned with barrel adjustments......shifting down to smaller cogs is all fucked up. Sometimes you dump 3 or 4 gears and the chain goes nowhere at all. Then the shifter feels like it's not even connected to anything when you try to shift back the other way. My memory is fuzzy, but I think I had this happen before when the spring/internals went bad on a 12spd XT shifter before?
    Could the housing be crushed where it was cut, causing friction?

  7. #10507
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
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    16,805
    Quote Originally Posted by D(C) View Post
    Could the housing be crushed where it was cut, causing friction?
    I always make sure to run a safety pin through at any cut points to be sure the ends aren't crimped. I went as far as to open up the clutch on the mech and it's clean and moving smoothly. I then backed down the tension quite a bit. It shifts slightly better and the thumb pressure needed to shift is improved, but it still shifting kinda weird.

    Tripled checked the B-screw etc etc. Cassette looks fine. Reach mech isn't lose. Rear axle tight etc.

    Visually the der hanger looks fine. I'm thinking the mech/cage is bent somewhere and I can't see it. There are some battle scars on it from rocks.

  8. #10508
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    4,867
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    I always make sure to run a safety pin through at any cut points to be sure the ends aren't crimped. I went as far as to open up the clutch on the mech and it's clean and moving smoothly. I then backed down the tension quite a bit. It shifts slightly better and the thumb pressure needed to shift is improved, but it still shifting kinda weird.

    Tripled checked the B-screw etc etc. Cassette looks fine. Reach mech isn't lose. Rear axle tight etc.

    Visually the der hanger looks fine. I'm thinking the mech/cage is bent somewhere and I can't see it. There are some battle scars on it from rocks.
    Derailleur to hanger bolt over torqued? Resulting in the derailleur not able to move freely. Try backing it off 1//8th of a turn if its really tight.

  9. #10509
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    6,644
    New (used) bike for my lovely wife. I'll have to post in the new gear thread. 2022 new frame (same as the Santa Cruz 5010) that was a warranty replacement for a 2020 frame that had paint peel. I assume they reused all the old bushings and bearings when they rebuilt the bike with the new frame.

    Small amount of vertical slop in the rear end. Isolated it (I think) to the front shock bolt. It's moving a little. Worn bushings, right? Bushing might be two years old. Or maybe they screwed something up on reassembly? Or did they lose a washer? Or something else? Or am I an idiot and the bushings are adjustable?

    maybe I should disassemble and reassemble. But if it's definitely a bushing I'll just go buy one first.
    Last edited by EWG; 05-27-2023 at 02:55 PM.

  10. #10510
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
    Posts
    139
    Cane Creek 40 headset: the preload bolt is plenty tight with no play and the fork is sucked up nicely to the bottom bearing. The whole thing went on smoothly (nothing felt like it needed forced).

    This little gap is totally uniform around the headset/frame interface with the blue. Bars turns smoothly. Is this normal or is the little ring on the top part of the headet not sitting in right and the gap it abnormally large? Hightower 3 with intergrated headset.

    Thanks!
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  11. #10511
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    6,644

    Ask the experts

    Gap doesn’t look right. Bearings are oriented the right way (ie not upside down)? Typically the problem is on whatever side the gap is on. In other words, the issue is likely to be above the head tube, not below. It looks like the bearing race isn’t sitting correctly in either the top or bottom cup. Hence the upside down question.

  12. #10512
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
    Posts
    139
    Thanks for the quick reply. We pulled the fork and checked the bearings (both bottom and top).

    The bottom one has the tapered side up into the frame and the flatter side seats perfectly with the crown race.

    On the top: We checked the bearing both ways, again the somewhat angular side seems to fit perfectly into the intergrated cups (photo of the bearing sitting flush into the frame).

    The headset topcap and compression ring then attach cleanly to the bearing and spin smoothly.

    Its almost as if the intergrated cups are just a hair high and its a thick bearing? Stock cane creek 40.

    Any chance this is correct and its a little wierd on this bike or worthy of a trip to the bike shop?

    Thanks!
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  13. #10513
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NorCal coast
    Posts
    1,950
    The Chris King headset on my Nomad sticks up a little bit also, but the top cap hangs down around it and almost touches the frame.

  14. #10514
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
    Posts
    139
    For anyones future reference: For intergrated headsets since they don't have the exta bottom ring some gap is normal. But if you remove the compression ring from the headset top cap there is a small spacer that can be removed to make it much narrower and look normal. Thanks all for the help!


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  15. #10515
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Three-O-Three
    Posts
    15,418
    WRG- make sure the cable cover bolts on your GG aren’t over tightened… that caused a lot of the shifting issues for me when I had GG demos. I also found that the cable housing could pinch a bit between the BB area and the rear triangle, although that only happened a couple times.

  16. #10516
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    705
    WRG, if it shifts fine with the clutch off, as you mentioned in an earlier post, I’d start there. Service the clutch and back the adjust screw way out. Slowly tighten it up to see when shifting degrades. Or pick up a new cheap deore or slx derailleur to test and keep as a spare/backup. The SLX is nearly identical anyway (just swap the bearing pulley wheels from the XT).

  17. #10517
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    16,805
    Quote Originally Posted by smmokan View Post
    WRG- make sure the cable cover bolts on your GG aren’t over tightened… that caused a lot of the shifting issues for me when I had GG demos. I also found that the cable housing could pinch a bit between the BB area and the rear triangle, although that only happened a couple times.
    Ohhhhh, good call. That may totally explain it because taking off the cover and running new housing etc etc.

  18. #10518
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Paper St. Soap Co.
    Posts
    3,304
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    More lube? Use a different lube?
    Tried a new lube and really dumped it on night before, wiped it this morning and no issues on 32 mile ride today with dozen creek crossings. Thanks for idea, maybe chain came with something on it that didn't work with rock-'n'-roll.

  19. #10519
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    16,805
    Hopefully gonna have a new fork here soon......then more compliant wheels at some point. Bike still feels a little wild on chunder, but its rideable and still fucking fun.

    Any Push owners......is this play/clicking noise normal?


  20. #10520
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    2,625
    I just tried adjusting my brake levers flatter which I think I like but now my shifter is in a funky place. Is there a part I can order for my XT brakes to increase the range of adjustment range for where I can adjust my shifter to? It looks like the XTR brakes have a greater range and it'd be nice to have something a bit closer to that. If not then what kind of bar clamp do I need for my shifter?

  21. #10521
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    3,141
    Problem Solvers has an I-spec clamp that will separate the shifter and brake lever, but it costs almost as much as a shifter, so maybe just buy a clamp mounted one and have a spare.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  22. #10522
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    3,141
    SRAM Transmission question for those who've fondled it. Will the left side XO crankarm with spindle mount to a right side older SRAM DUB arm? It certainly looks like it will, though some BB spacers might be required bc the spindle looks longer.

    They sell the left power meter arm for less than $350, so mounting that to Ms CE's existing X1 right arm will get her power without losing her preferred 28T ring and saves a bit of coin.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  23. #10523
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    SLCizzy
    Posts
    3,554
    It’s DUB interface, but the T-Type cranks spindles are longer than normal 12sp Eagle cranks to enable that shitty 55mm chain line. You’d have to use the DUB wide BB spacer- I can’t remember if it’s 7.5 or 11.5mm.
    So yes, but Q factor would get wider and chain line would get worse - unless she’s riding a SuperBoost bike.


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  24. #10524
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    The better LA
    Posts
    2,453
    WRG, based on your posts over the past month, I think your bike hates you.

  25. #10525
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    4,867

    Ask the experts

    Quote Originally Posted by joetron View Post
    It’s DUB interface, but the T-Type cranks spindles are longer than normal 12sp Eagle cranks to enable that shitty 55mm chain line. You’d have to use the DUB wide BB spacer- I can’t remember if it’s 7.5 or 11.5mm.
    So yes, but Q factor would get wider and chain line would get worse - unless she’s riding a SuperBoost bike.
    Or you could put a 6mm offset chainring on to the cranks. Bringing your chainline back closer to 52mm.

    I have a 170 XO Transmission Left side Non Power meter arm/spindle if you want to mess around with it, to see if it fits.

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