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Thread: Ask the experts
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05-26-2023, 11:37 AM #10501Registered User
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- Jul 2021
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- 139
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05-26-2023, 12:24 PM #10502
Any recommendations for threaded bottom brackets that fit a 30mm spindle, won't turn to notchy crap in a few months, and are reasonably inexpensive? Or should I just try harder to find Shimano cranks I like so I can keep using $25 BBs?
kittyhump.com - Fund Max, Cat Appreciation, Bike
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05-26-2023, 01:14 PM #10503
I’ve been using Real World Cycling 30mm BB with angular contact bearings to good results.
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"Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.
I'll be there." ... Andy Campbell
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05-26-2023, 02:58 PM #10504
Yes
Sent from my iPhone using TGR ForumsHowever many are in a shit ton.
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05-26-2023, 04:04 PM #10505
Ugh, so I have never had new cable/housing/chain make shifting WORSE. Shifting into bigger cogs is almost normal and can be tuned with barrel adjustments......shifting down to smaller cogs is all fucked up. Sometimes you dump 3 or 4 gears and the chain goes nowhere at all. Then the shifter feels like it's not even connected to anything when you try to shift back the other way. My memory is fuzzy, but I think I had this happen before when the spring/internals went bad on a 12spd XT shifter before?
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05-27-2023, 07:59 AM #10506
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05-27-2023, 08:31 AM #10507
I always make sure to run a safety pin through at any cut points to be sure the ends aren't crimped. I went as far as to open up the clutch on the mech and it's clean and moving smoothly. I then backed down the tension quite a bit. It shifts slightly better and the thumb pressure needed to shift is improved, but it still shifting kinda weird.
Tripled checked the B-screw etc etc. Cassette looks fine. Reach mech isn't lose. Rear axle tight etc.
Visually the der hanger looks fine. I'm thinking the mech/cage is bent somewhere and I can't see it. There are some battle scars on it from rocks.
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05-27-2023, 08:41 AM #10508
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05-27-2023, 08:50 AM #10509
New (used) bike for my lovely wife. I'll have to post in the new gear thread. 2022 new frame (same as the Santa Cruz 5010) that was a warranty replacement for a 2020 frame that had paint peel. I assume they reused all the old bushings and bearings when they rebuilt the bike with the new frame.
Small amount of vertical slop in the rear end. Isolated it (I think) to the front shock bolt. It's moving a little. Worn bushings, right? Bushing might be two years old. Or maybe they screwed something up on reassembly? Or did they lose a washer? Or something else? Or am I an idiot and the bushings are adjustable?
maybe I should disassemble and reassemble. But if it's definitely a bushing I'll just go buy one first.Last edited by EWG; 05-27-2023 at 02:55 PM.
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05-27-2023, 10:20 AM #10510Registered User
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- Jul 2021
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- 139
Cane Creek 40 headset: the preload bolt is plenty tight with no play and the fork is sucked up nicely to the bottom bearing. The whole thing went on smoothly (nothing felt like it needed forced).
This little gap is totally uniform around the headset/frame interface with the blue. Bars turns smoothly. Is this normal or is the little ring on the top part of the headet not sitting in right and the gap it abnormally large? Hightower 3 with intergrated headset.
Thanks!
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05-27-2023, 10:29 AM #10511
Ask the experts
Gap doesn’t look right. Bearings are oriented the right way (ie not upside down)? Typically the problem is on whatever side the gap is on. In other words, the issue is likely to be above the head tube, not below. It looks like the bearing race isn’t sitting correctly in either the top or bottom cup. Hence the upside down question.
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05-27-2023, 12:19 PM #10512Registered User
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- Jul 2021
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Thanks for the quick reply. We pulled the fork and checked the bearings (both bottom and top).
The bottom one has the tapered side up into the frame and the flatter side seats perfectly with the crown race.
On the top: We checked the bearing both ways, again the somewhat angular side seems to fit perfectly into the intergrated cups (photo of the bearing sitting flush into the frame).
The headset topcap and compression ring then attach cleanly to the bearing and spin smoothly.
Its almost as if the intergrated cups are just a hair high and its a thick bearing? Stock cane creek 40.
Any chance this is correct and its a little wierd on this bike or worthy of a trip to the bike shop?
Thanks!
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05-27-2023, 12:49 PM #10513Registered User
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- Feb 2014
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- NorCal coast
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The Chris King headset on my Nomad sticks up a little bit also, but the top cap hangs down around it and almost touches the frame.
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05-27-2023, 01:06 PM #10514Registered User
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- Jul 2021
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05-27-2023, 04:42 PM #10515
WRG- make sure the cable cover bolts on your GG aren’t over tightened… that caused a lot of the shifting issues for me when I had GG demos. I also found that the cable housing could pinch a bit between the BB area and the rear triangle, although that only happened a couple times.
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05-27-2023, 05:03 PM #10516
WRG, if it shifts fine with the clutch off, as you mentioned in an earlier post, I’d start there. Service the clutch and back the adjust screw way out. Slowly tighten it up to see when shifting degrades. Or pick up a new cheap deore or slx derailleur to test and keep as a spare/backup. The SLX is nearly identical anyway (just swap the bearing pulley wheels from the XT).
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05-27-2023, 05:15 PM #10517
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05-27-2023, 07:35 PM #10518
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05-28-2023, 03:56 PM #10519
Hopefully gonna have a new fork here soon......then more compliant wheels at some point. Bike still feels a little wild on chunder, but its rideable and still fucking fun.
Any Push owners......is this play/clicking noise normal?
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05-29-2023, 02:01 PM #10520
I just tried adjusting my brake levers flatter which I think I like but now my shifter is in a funky place. Is there a part I can order for my XT brakes to increase the range of adjustment range for where I can adjust my shifter to? It looks like the XTR brakes have a greater range and it'd be nice to have something a bit closer to that. If not then what kind of bar clamp do I need for my shifter?
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05-29-2023, 02:49 PM #10521one of those sickos
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- Oct 2005
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- Tahoe-ish
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- 3,141
Problem Solvers has an I-spec clamp that will separate the shifter and brake lever, but it costs almost as much as a shifter, so maybe just buy a clamp mounted one and have a spare.
ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.
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05-29-2023, 02:52 PM #10522one of those sickos
- Join Date
- Oct 2005
- Location
- Tahoe-ish
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- 3,141
SRAM Transmission question for those who've fondled it. Will the left side XO crankarm with spindle mount to a right side older SRAM DUB arm? It certainly looks like it will, though some BB spacers might be required bc the spindle looks longer.
They sell the left power meter arm for less than $350, so mounting that to Ms CE's existing X1 right arm will get her power without losing her preferred 28T ring and saves a bit of coin.ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.
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05-29-2023, 04:03 PM #10523
It’s DUB interface, but the T-Type cranks spindles are longer than normal 12sp Eagle cranks to enable that shitty 55mm chain line. You’d have to use the DUB wide BB spacer- I can’t remember if it’s 7.5 or 11.5mm.
So yes, but Q factor would get wider and chain line would get worse - unless she’s riding a SuperBoost bike.
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05-29-2023, 05:23 PM #10524
WRG, based on your posts over the past month, I think your bike hates you.
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05-29-2023, 06:53 PM #10525
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