Ask the experts

[HankScorpio]

The SRAM 10 speed rear derailleur on my gravel bike is toast and I can't get a new for a week or so. I have an SRAM 11 speed derailleur kicking around, can I use that in the mean time with the 11 speed drop bar shifter?

[kalisto]

I believe sprocket spacing on the 11 speed cassette is indeed the same as the 10 speed. Question is if your limit screw can go low enough to prevent you shifting off the end of the cassette.

[Eluder]

The SRAM 10 speed rear derailleur on my gravel bike is toast and I can't get a new for a week or so. I have an SRAM 11 speed derailleur kicking around, can I use that in the mean time with the 11 speed drop bar shifter?

Sram Road 10 and 11 speed use the same pull ratio, you can use it with your 10 speed drivetrain. If its a mountain derailleur it won't it though.

[HankScorpio]

Hmmm the 11 speed derailleur is a GX because it can clear the 40t cassette. It may not work but I'll try once I get a new shifter cable from the shop tomorrow.

I put the derailleur on last night without a cable and the limit screws do line up. We shall see......

[HAB]

Hmmm the 11 speed derailleur is a GX because it can clear the 40t cassette. It may not work but I'll try once I get a new shifter cable from the shop tomorrow.

I put the derailleur on last night without a cable and the limit screws do line up. We shall see......

The limit screws aren't the problem. The cable pull ratios are different, so the deraileur isn't going to move the right amount per shift, and thus won't line up right in more than 1 or 2 of the gears, depending how you set it up.

[rideit]

There are some hacks out there to modify pull ratios if you want to do some deep web research.

This has some details about the numbers, I’ll try and find some tips.

http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-...compatibility/

[HankScorpio]

Damn! Not gonna fuck with it, I'll just have to wait for the new derailleur to show up.

[XXX-er]

you could go SS ... ]just leave it in one gear

[hick]

The DPX2 is fairly noisy when you run either the rebound or compression mostly open. It kinda depends on what the sound is. Squish = ok. Slurp = needs service. I'm sure that's not terribly helpful. The best way to check would be to crank the rebound slow (clockwise) and try cycling it. If it's quieter then, you're probably fine. If it's still slurping, it's cavitating and needs service.

So tried this and what I found is that the first few cycles when I compress the shock are noisy like you can hear the oil cycling through it, then it quiets down. Seems noisiest after sitting for a while. I have a fresh seal kit I could put on it, but can’t imagine that would do anything. I think I’ll continue to ride it and see if the performance gets noticeably poor.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[kalisto]

herp derp. Totally forgot about road/mountain derailleur/shifter combo.

I realize it's just a temp solution, but if you wanted something more permanent, you could run one of these:
http://www.jtekengineering.com/resou...compatibility/

I'm running an 8a to use a right handed GRX shifter with an XT rear derailleur.

Wolftooth also makes something for shimano conversions, but if you're using SRAM you might be out of luck.

[Andeh]

So tried this and what I found is that the first few cycles when I compress the shock are noisy like you can hear the oil cycling through it, then it quiets down. Seems noisiest after sitting for a while. I have a fresh seal kit I could put on it, but can’t imagine that would do anything. I think I’ll continue to ride it and see if the performance gets noticeably poor.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

A trick from Darren at Push is to rotate your bike backwards before your ride (rotate on rear wheel past vertical) for a few seconds so that the oil in the bottom of the fork and shock drains towards the seals and lubricates them.

[radam]

My new hardtail build was initially dead quiet, but has developed a pretty bad drivetrain creak under hard pedaling. Everything is brand new and I haven't even ridden it on dirt yet, just rides around the neighborhood.

Pulled the cranks and BB, regreased and re-torqued everything, re-torqued chainring bolts, greased and re-torqed the rear axle, re-torqued RD bolt, and tried different pedals, no effect.

What else can I try? 73 mm BSA BB shell, RF cranks and BB, 148x12 rear, new well-lubed chain.

You track down your creak? I'm dealing with the same thing essentially, but on a full suspension. Have checked all the same things, plus swapped derailleurs and have also checked some (but not all) frame pivots. Checking the rest is next, as is inspect for cracks but. Creak is under pedaling, does not get loud relative to power put down. Sometimes I sweat soft pedaling makes the creak louder. If I get my weight way over the front end of the bike and pedal, it is slightly quieter. Very confused.

[Dantheman]

Nope. Been busy and haven't gotten around to the derailleur hanger suggestion yet. The bike uses modular dropouts so that one is plausible. If that doesn't work out I'll try reinstalling the fork, because at that point why not? If that fails I'm at a loss. Trying to avoid the LBS for multiple reasons right now but it may come to that.

[kalisto]

Check the chainring, make sure the bolts are tight.

[Dantheman]

Idiot Status: Confirmed

I could swear the noise was coming from the BB or cranks, so I took one more look around the chainring. That led to realizing that the off-brand chainring I bought had a little too much material on the tabs and thus didn't clear the crank tabs and was not sitting flush. The chainring was not obviously misaligned since I had dutifully tightened the bolts very evenly, so all four contacts were equally uneven/non-flush. I pulled the chainring, filed off a couple mm's of 7075 from all four points on the ring, reinstalled and it's all good.

I can't believe I didn't notice this when I put it on the first time. It was just about the last part that went on the bike so I guess I was anxious to slap it on and get the RD tuned up.

[kalisto]

I've taken cranksets off, taken out threaded BB's, cleaned everything and re-assembled, only to find that my chainring bolts worked their way loose...

[rideit]

Idiot Status: Confirmed

I could swear the noise was coming from the BB or cranks, so I took one more look around the chainring. That led to realizing that the off-brand chainring I bought had a little too much material on the tabs and thus didn't clear the crank tabs and was not sitting flush. The chainring was not obviously misaligned since I had dutifully tightened the bolts very evenly, so all four contacts were equally uneven/non-flush. I pulled the chainring, filed off a couple mm's of 7075 from all four points on the ring, reinstalled and it's all good.

I can't believe I didn't notice this when I put it on the first time. It was just about the last part that went on the bike so I guess I was anxious to slap it on and get the RD tuned up.

Oh, if I only had a list of the WAY dumber things I have missed...it’s like a 40 year long list.

[radam]

Apparently just letting my bike sit for a couple days made my creak go away. But it also went away temporarily (for about a mile) after all the other times I've tried to get rid of it. Can't decide if I should ride it without actually checking anything else, try to inspect things, or just ride another bike tomorrow so I know I won't have to deal with it.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

[radam]

Nevermind. It came back after a mile of pedaling. BUT I am 99.99% sure now it is coming from where my derailleur attaches to the hanger. Sram gx 11 speed, guerilla gravity aluminum smash. Tried cleaning it super well, that did nothing. Tried greasing, nothing. Happens with either of the sram derailleurs I have. Haven't tested a Shimano one yet. Can make it creak by pedaling (any level of power, even in the stand) and also just by hand flexing basically any part of the derailleur. Also tried to confirm its not the hanger/frame interface by attaching an alignment tool and moving it slightly.
Will order a new hanger (which I should have anyways) but what can I try in the meantime?

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

[XXX-er]

we had a bike a garden variety HT come in that clicked/ made a noise

another store had not been able to fix it, 3 people in my shop worked on it, changed some parts yada fucking yada

but nobody touched the back wheel cuz it seemed to be coming from the BB area,

the last guy figured out the rear QR was about half loose, JUST the right amount that ever so often when peddling the wheel would shift in the frame and make the noise

so there was nothing wrong at all ... just a loose QR

[dcpnz]

Had one of these mystery clicks too. Pulled cranks and BB three times with no fix. Turned out to be loose cassette lock ring.

[Roxtar]

Shock question for those in the know: I have super low miles Fox dpx2 on an Ibis ripmo that feels fine riding, but makes the squishy sucking sound when compressed. Doesn’t seem to do it all the time. I had a dpx on a Bronson a couple years ago that made similar sounds and needed to be rebuilt If you even looked at it. Is this thing in the same boat and a total turd? Rebound seems to still be functional as is compression, is this just the sound it makes with the piggy back? Rebuild? Get another shock? I googled and got answers all over the board. Thoughts?

(Already posted in wrong thread and deleted, but Toast thought may be headed towards rebuild...)


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

Got a buddy selling the brand new X2 off his Ripmo if you're interested

[volklpowdermaniac]

Question about the 9120/8120 XT and XTR brakes...

On shimano site under 8120 (XT) it says they have a set of pads without fins that will work:
Pad_Option
D03S Resin (w/o fin), D02S Metal (w/o fin)
Pad_Standard
N03A Resin (w/ fin), N04C Metal (w/ fin)

On the 9120 (XTR) it lists only a pad standard with no finless option:
N03A Resin (w/ fin), N04C Metal (w/ fin)


So they both use the same standard shape pad, which makes sense the bodies look identical, but any reason the finless optional ones wouldn’t also work in the XTR? The finned ones are rattly as shit.

[hick]

Got a buddy selling the brand new X2 off his Ripmo if you're interested

Man, I’d love to but fucking covid got in my wallet, so no new shock for me. Stuck waiting 3-4 weeks while Fox does a warranty rebuild on it.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[volklpowdermaniac]

Question about the 9120/8120 XT and XTR brakes...

On shimano site under 8120 (XT) it says they have a set of pads without fins that will work:
Pad_Option
D03S Resin (w/o fin), D02S Metal (w/o fin)
Pad_Standard
N03A Resin (w/ fin), N04C Metal (w/ fin)

On the 9120 (XTR) it lists only a pad standard with no finless option:
N03A Resin (w/ fin), N04C Metal (w/ fin)


So they both use the same standard shape pad, which makes sense the bodies look identical, but any reason the finless optional ones wouldn’t also work in the XTR? The finned ones are rattly as shit.

Update for the archives: seems to fit/work for now!