Ask the experts

[snowaddict91]

I kind of think my 12sp GX system sucks. The B-gap is just a pia. I've now adjusted everything more times in 3 months than I ever did in 4 years of my 11 sp. So the question...does the upgrade on the shifter do anything? I've upgraded derailleurs and felt the difference, but didn't notice a shifter improvement. Is it there?

Me too. So much goddamn drivetrain tinkering. On the plus side, I've gotten way better at tuning derailleurs.

Always liked my SRAM drivetrains, but my new bike is SLX 12sp. Stoked to give it a go.

[NuMexJoe]

Best Schrader after market valve???? Mine are crap and popped out of tire when loosening the cap.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

The 949 Racing valve stems worked great for me when I drilled out a wheelset from presta to schraeder. If I had both, I'd offer to send them por nada, but for some reason, I can only find one in the bin. Don't see having a need for them again, but they're top quality stuff, and a damn site cheaper than any Stans, WTB, American Classic MTB-specific presta tubeless valvestem.

[El Chupacabra]

I have a little bit of play in a SRAM GXP crankset - any suggestions on how to get rid of it? I thought it might be bad bearings, so removed the cranks - and bearings are smooth, no play. Cleaned and regreased splines, reinstalled and torqued, and there's still a little play.

Threaded GXP BB, and the washers are in place and in the right order. No wavy washer, but IIRC that is only for the press fit GXP BB.

This is the stock, original crankset and BB on this bike.

[westoxified]

Me too. So much goddamn drivetrain tinkering. On the plus side, I've gotten way better at tuning derailleurs.

Always liked my SRAM drivetrains, but my new bike is SLX 12sp. Stoked to give it a go.

You notice slx being way noisier than gx? I’m same boat as you with 12 speed SLX. It’s my first Shimano dt in over a decade and not sure if I need to adjust the clutch or not. Granted the stumpy chainstay is super close in the four -five highest gears. But it was the same as my old bike and it was stealthily silent. I sometimes forget to flip the clutch lever but even after that it’s clangy AF.

[Dantheman]

Advice for dealing with Commencal's half-baked internal routing? Pics below show the seatstay and the weld at the seat tube that the brake hose simply will not navigate past after endless fiddling. I even tried threading a shifter cable through as proof-of-concept and it wouldn't go.

At this point I don't have the slightest idea how they accomplished this at the factory. The only access from the seat tube to the top tube is a ~1/4" hole.

[XXX-er]

I hope I am just thinking out my ass but I gotta wonder if that hole was just a vent for the welding or was it really suposed to have a cable running thru it?

[El Chupacabra]

Does the brake hose route out of that oval hole in the left seat stay, in the first pic?

Or does the brake hose travel internally down the full length of the down tube, and snake around the bottom bracket, before exiting somewhere else?

[Dantheman]

The stock brake line went into the oval seatstay port, up the seat stay, into the top tube, and out another port near the head tube.

I did get the shifter cable to go through going front-to-back, but that's not an option for the new brake hose because of the banjo bolt. The stock brake is a SRAM Level that doesn't use a banjo and I'm starting wonder if that's the only way this will actually work (other than routing externally).

[El Chupacabra]

The stock brake line went into the oval seatstay port, up the seat stay, into the top tube, and out another port near the head tube.

I did get the shifter cable to go through going front-to-back, but that's not an option for the new brake hose because of the banjo bolt. The stock brake is a SRAM Level that doesn't use a banjo and I'm starting wonder if that's the only way this will actually work (other than routing externally).

Are you using a brake that has a banjo attachment at both the caliper and the lever?

[toast2266]

The stock brake line went into the oval seatstay port, up the seat stay, into the top tube, and out another port near the head tube.

I did get the shifter cable to go through going front-to-back, but that's not an option for the new brake hose because of the banjo bolt. The stock brake is a SRAM Level that doesn't use a banjo and I'm starting wonder if that's the only way this will actually work (other than routing externally).

You have banjo bolts at both ends? I'm assuming hayes brakes - not sure what their fittings look like.

Most internal routing that I've played with isn't big enough to fit hardware. You need to get one end of the hose down to just the hose and then thread that through.

[HAB]

You have banjo bolts at both ends? I'm assuming hayes brakes - not sure what their fittings look like.

Most internal routing that I've played with isn't big enough to fit hardware. You need to get one end of the hose down to just the hose and then thread that through.

Dominions have a banjo at the caliper end, and a normal inline fitting at the lever.


Reattach the caliper end and feed the lever end through.

[Dantheman]

Sorry, didn't mean to confuse, banjo is just at the caliper. But, having a banjo bolt (that, AFAIK, cannot be removed) on the hose means the hose can only be threaded back-to-front. The stock brake uses a cheaper non-banjo hose that theoretically could be threaded in the other direction.

So far, I've managed to successfully thread a shifter cable front-to-back several times, but never back-to-front despite a ton of trying. Thus, I'm becoming concerned that front-to-back is the only viable option for hydraulic hose as well, which is physically impossible with a banjo hose.

[HAB]

Got it.

Feed something through front to back, tape it to the end of the hose, pull it back through.

[sethschmautz]

Got it.

Feed something through front to back, tape it to the end of the hose, pull it back through.

HAB beat me to it. This should work. Finding the right amount of tape to make the transition between pull string and brake hose smooth without getting too much might take a few tries but this method should work.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[Dantheman]

Feed something through front to back, tape it to the end of the hose, pull it back through.

Except I haven't even been able to get a shifter cable through back-to-front and I've tried a *lot*.

[snowaddict91]

You notice slx being way noisier than gx? I’m same boat as you with 12 speed SLX. It’s my first Shimano dt in over a decade and not sure if I need to adjust the clutch or not. Granted the stumpy chainstay is super close in the four -five highest gears. But it was the same as my old bike and it was stealthily silent. I sometimes forget to flip the clutch lever but even after that it’s clangy AF.

I've only had it out once but I didn't notice. Now I probably will, though.

[Dee Hubbs]

Except I haven't even been able to get a shifter cable through back-to-front and I've tried a *lot*.

Thread the shifter cable from front to back, attach the brake cable to the shifter cable with a barb connector, and pull the brake cable from back to front.

[Dantheman]

Thread the shifter cable from front to back, attach the brake cable to the shifter cable with a barb connector, and pull the brake cable from back to front.

Derp, I read that too fast and totally misread the suggestion. I'll give it a shot.

[Dee Hubbs]

Derp, I read that too fast and totally misread the suggestion. I'll give it a shot.

Do you have one of these?

Its the best way to attach the shifter cable to brake line without adding bulk.

[Dantheman]

Don't have that doohickey, but I thought some foil tape might do the trick and it worked. Man, what an unnecessary PITA.

[skaredshtles]

Don't have that doohickey, but I thought some foil tape might do the trick and it worked. Man, what an unnecessary PITA.

Internally routed shit is really irritating. Bike industry:

[snowaddict91]

Internally routed shit is really irritating. Bike industry:

But it looks so good.

[joetron]

The Park Internal Cable Routing Kit is one of my favorite tools on the bench.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[jm2e]

I have a little bit of play in a SRAM GXP crankset - any suggestions on how to get rid of it? I thought it might be bad bearings, so removed the cranks - and bearings are smooth, no play. Cleaned and regreased splines, reinstalled and torqued, and there's still a little play.

Threaded GXP BB, and the washers are in place and in the right order. No wavy washer, but IIRC that is only for the press fit GXP BB.

This is the stock, original crankset and BB on this bike.

Just add a BB spacer. I ran into that with a Wheels Mfg GXP BB. Called them and the guy was like, “yea man just do what feels right. It’s not like every BB shell is exactly the width SRAM wants it to be.”


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[El Chupacabra]

Just add a BB spacer. I ran into that with a Wheels Mfg GXP BB. Called them and the guy was like, “yea man just do what feels right. It’s not like every BB shell is exactly the width SRAM wants it to be.”


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

BB spacer as in the type that goes between the BB cup and the frame? Or as in one that slides onto the crank spindle?