Ask the experts

[D(C)]

^^^ no advice, but this is a good cautionary tale. Thanks for sharing!

[John_B]

What a clusterfuck.

[volklpowdermaniac]

Any one ever mess with Galfer rotors? Bikemag has a story yesterday about there 223- way too big for me, but then I got to looking at them in general- their 180 and 203 have great reviews, but are they any better than standard shimano ice tech?

[XXX-er]

I think they would be really heavy and add to the unsprung weight

[HAB]

I think they would be really heavy and add to the unsprung weight

223 you mean? It's about 80-100g heavier than a 203mm rotor. So, not nothing, but not a huge penalty if you want more brake.

The smaller diameter ones are also thinner (1.8mm vs 2.0 for the 223) so the weights are more normal.

All that said, I haven't tried them so no idea if they're any good or not.

[jackstraw]

Anyone know how to get a snapped off solid hickory hammer handle, wrapped in a cotton rag out of a carbon seat post tube?

What a fucking mess.

Oh man! When good intentions go wrong. As I was reading I'm thinking at least its wood and you can drill....

Nice problem solving.

[XXX-er]

223 you mean? It's about 80-100g heavier than a 203mm rotor. So, not nothing, but not a huge penalty if you want more brake.

The smaller diameter ones are also thinner (1.8mm vs 2.0 for the 223) so the weights are more normal.

All that said, I haven't tried them so no idea if they're any good or not.

well do you need more brake ?

100 grams on each wheel ( probably just the front ? ) the weight of extra adapters for the calipers, also the weight is unsprung which affects the suspension, also more weight for the rider to move ?

might make more sense on a DH bike

[jm2e]

1. Re wooden handle: My suggestion was going to be to burn it.

2. Re Gaffer rotors. Just seems like 3rd party rotors should be cheaper. As in, Shimano and Sram rotors work great. Why would I buy the other brand?

[simple]

I'm learning Magura rotors are a little thicker. I'm pretty picky about Sram rotors with SRAM brakes. The old AVID turkey gobble was mostly solved by them that way.

[cydwhit]

I'm sold on running a semi-slick on the rear here in the Tetons. It's perfect for my riding style. But, before I buy another E13 LG1 (which I ran all last year, and loved) I want to field any other recommendations.

Requirements:
-29"
-Tougher than an EXO+ casing
-2.4" or wider

I've had a hard time finding a Minion SS in anything tougher than EXO. Specialized doesn't seem to make a Slaughter in a BLCK DMND or DH casing at 29". Rock Razor seems like it might be cool, but I had terrible experiences with the last Schwalbes I used, and I carry my biases like that. Could be talked into it.

What am I missing?

[toast2266]

I'm sold on running a semi-slick on the rear here in the Tetons. It's perfect for my riding style. But, before I buy another E13 LG1 (which I ran all last year, and loved) I want to field any other recommendations.

Requirements:
-29"
-Tougher than an EXO+ casing
-2.4" or wider

I've had a hard time finding a Minion SS in anything tougher than EXO. Specialized doesn't seem to make a Slaughter in a BLCK DMND or DH casing at 29". Rock Razor seems like it might be cool, but I had terrible experiences with the last Schwalbes I used, and I carry my biases like that. Could be talked into it.

What am I missing?

I have zero experience with them, but Kenda makes the Helldiver Pro, which seems to maybe fit in this category. I'm not sure it's a good option, but it's an option.

[Dee Hubbs]

Minion SS does come in in a DH casing but its a 2.5"WT at 1200g. The DD is only available in 2.3" at 1040g.
If your Schwalbe experience was 5+ years ago with Hans Dampf knobs falling simply by airing up the tire, things have changed and they make a decent tire now.
I've read great things about that LG1. I should try it. I constantly switch between a Minion SS and High Roller2.

[cydwhit]

I have zero experience with them, but Kenda makes the Helldiver Pro, which seems to maybe fit in this category. I'm not sure it's a good option, but it's an option.

Yeah, was looking at that. But also, I have a hard time justifying gambling with Kenda. I still just have OG Nevegal trauma.

Minion SS does come in in a DH casing but its a 2.5"WT at 1200g. The DD is only available in 2.3" at 1040g.
If your Schwalbe experience was 5+ years ago with Hans Dampf knobs falling simply by airing up the tire, things have changed and they make a decent tire now.
I've read great things about that LG1. I should try it. I constantly switch between a Minion SS and High Roller2.

I've seen heftier Minion SS's quoted on Maxxis' website, finding them in the real world has been much harder for me for some reason. Good to know they're out there.

My Schwalbe experience was more like three years ago, and honestly wasn't bad enough to justify ditching the brand entirely, I should give them another shot at some point.

Found another of the E13's on sale for $40, so I snagged it. If I end up finding that 2.5 DH Minion SS the E13 can go on my hardtail.

I rode the Exo Minion SS basically back to back with the E13 last year, and came away feeling like the E13 did everything the Minion does better. Rolled faster, locked in more aggressively on those cornering knobs, and was basically un-flattable, even with some really dumb race lines.

[HAB]

Yeah, I like the e13 better than the Minion SS too. Biggest thing for me with the Maxxis is that it's to square unless you put one on a super narrow rim. It's like they took a DHF and just lopped the center knobs off without changing the overall profile. The result is that you end up riding on the side knobs way too much of the time and it doesn't actually roll all that great, and the transition into the side knobs happens too soon when you lean over into a corner.

It's been years since I tried the Rock Razor, but I remember that having the opposite problem, where it felt like the side knobs were roughly where the lettering on the sidewall should be. It might as well have not had any. Whether or not that is still the case, I'm not sure.

[simple]

Schwalbe rock razor in Super gravity is my favorite Colorado and Utah loose over hard and hard rock tire. On the rear obviously. Fast, durable, and holds a line. I take it off to race Enduro. Hans dampf mostly in those cases.

[Roxtar]

I've been running a Magic Mary/Rock razor combo for a month now. I'm pretty impressed. I'm running the RR in the lighter Speedgrip compound and I've been pleasantly surprised st the sidewall durability. I've run them through some serious terrain with no issues.

[simple]

That is a fun combo. Push the front wheel hard and the rear wheel dances a bit in the back. You can slide corners that way.

[alewi11]

[QUOTE=HAB;6000826]It's been years since I tried the Rock Razor, but I remember that having the opposite problem, where it felt like the side knobs were roughly where the lettering on the sidewall should be. It might as well have not had any. Whether or not that is still the case, I'm not sure.[/QUOTE}

Same. I really love a good semi slick and wanted to like the Rock Razor specifically because I can get them so cheap from the German websites. I just found the side knobs to be so hard to engage. Always liked the Slaughter the best, but I've never tried the E13.

[scrublover]

Bontrager SE4? Comes in a 29x2.4 size, may be a bit more knob vomit than you're after though.

[plugboots]

Bontrager SE4? Comes in a 29x2.4 size, may be a bit more knob vomit than you're after though.

Look through the Bontrager TEAM series. Maybe the SE3.

[cydwhit]

Look through the Bontrager TEAM series. Maybe the SE3.

Bontrager SE4? Comes in a 29x2.4 size, may be a bit more knob vomit than you're after though.

Yeah, I've ridden an SE3, the thing I ran into on that tire is that the overall profile of both the casing and the knobs is more rounded than I want. All the knobs are kind of similar in height, and you've got a bunch of transitional knobs. Which, when coupled with my conditions/riding style means that you've got more consistent traction as you lay the tire over into a corner. And that's sorta the opposite of what I want.

But also I'm not great at understanding/articulating tread patterns, so feel free to call me out.

I love the tight/loose feeling of a semi-slick on the back because if I'm upright/ not leaning the bike at all, there's no cornering traction, and then I can turn it all the way on in an instant as soon as I lean the bike over. Feels like skiing a triple cambered ski.

[mall walker]

Are the Manitou (Machete, Markhor) forks any good? I'm looking at eventually upgrading the fork in my cheap hardtail, it's a 29" 1-1/8" straight 100mm (suntour xct) and the mfr recommends 100-120mm travel... thinking one of these may be decent, but no clue what my options are for non-tapered xc forks.

[simple]

Pretty slim. Tapered is much better so industry left straight behind

[El Chupacabra]

Are the Manitou (Machete, Markhor) forks any good? I'm looking at eventually upgrading the fork in my cheap hardtail, it's a 29" 1-1/8" straight 100mm (suntour xct) and the mfr recommends 100-120mm travel... thinking one of these may be decent, but no clue what my options are for non-tapered xc forks.

I don't think there are a lot of options for new forks beyond Manitou and X-Fusion, if you want anything half-decent. RockShox makes some, but I think they're all pretty low-end now -- like steel stanchions, 28mm chassis, etc.

A couple years ago, I went through the same shopping. Ended up with a RockShox Recon Gold, 32mm, aluminum stanchions, turnkey damper -- it was the least-expensive acceptable fork I could find for my singlespeed (1 1/8 straight steerer, q/r dropouts, 100mm).

[HAB]

Looks like Fox will still sell you a 32 with a straight 1.125 steerer. QR only and the lower end Grip damper, but I'm sure it's a lot better than the Suntour.

https://www.ridefox.com/family.php?m=bike&family=32s