Ask the experts

**ASmileyFace** · 08-12-2020, 09:05 AM

Originally Posted by Sandbox

Damn, betting I’ll have no luck then. Guess I’ll just stay out of the sun till I can get a new pair ( of brakes) in the off season

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Just FYI my local bike shop is still replacing the bad batch of guide levers for free (outside of labor). SRAM sent them a huge box when the warranty issue kept popping up. Check with your local shops and see if any are still warrantying them.

**Muggydude** · 08-12-2020, 09:22 AM

It’s an SRAM x01 derailleur, I’ll check it out and try. Wheels/hubs only have 75 miles as well. Carbon. Wouldn’t think it’s the hubs because no issues when not pedaling

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**toast2266** · 08-12-2020, 10:16 AM

Originally Posted by Muggydude

It’s an SRAM x01 derailleur, I’ll check it out and try. Wheels/hubs only have 75 miles as well. Carbon. Wouldn’t think it’s the hubs because no issues when not pedaling

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For whatever it's worth, I had a creaking issue that was the hub, in the freehub body. Only happened while pedaling.

**HAB** · 08-12-2020, 10:20 AM

Originally Posted by toast2266

For whatever it's worth, I had a creaking issue that was the hub, in the freehub body. Only happened while pedaling.

Microspline cassette? Bunch of people I know have had issues with that to varying degrees.

**toast2266** · 08-12-2020, 10:23 AM

Originally Posted by HAB

Microspline cassette? Bunch of people I know have had issues with that to varying degrees.

Yeah, but I'm fairly certain it wasn't the actual microspline / cassette interface. Slathered the freehub in grease and that didn't change it. Mounted a different wheel (with the same cassette) and that didn't creak. So I think it's something inside the freehub (Chris King).

**rideit** · 08-12-2020, 10:27 AM

Good thing they made King hubs to be SO easy to disassemble and work on...

**toast2266** · 08-12-2020, 10:42 AM

Originally Posted by rideit

Good thing they made King hubs to be SO easy to disassemble and work on...

Exactly. At least it was affordable! [/s]

**XXX-er** · 08-12-2020, 10:48 AM

Originally Posted by toast2266

For whatever it's worth, I had a creaking issue that was the hub, in the freehub body. Only happened while pedaling.

way back in the day I had a cassette moving on the freehub body making a very difficult to diagnose intermittent noise, it was on warranty so there was a mechanic working on the problem, he ended up shimming the cassette

IME noises could be anything

**grinch** · 08-12-2020, 11:29 AM

This thread scares me. I have a bike coming with microspline, shimano brakes, fox 38's, slx r derailleur, pressfit bb. Pretty sure im going to die..... from a stroke

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**rideit** · 08-12-2020, 11:37 AM

Jaybird Headphones will fix all of that.

**HAB** · 08-12-2020, 11:37 AM

Originally Posted by grinch

This thread scares me. I have a bike coming with microspline, shimano brakes, fox 38's, slx r derailleur, pressfit bb. Pretty sure im going to die..... from a stroke

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Definitely gonna die. I'll PM my address to redirect the shipment and fall on that grenade for you.

**grinch** · 08-12-2020, 12:09 PM

Experts are such a helpful bunch

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**Roxtar** · 08-12-2020, 01:30 PM

Originally Posted by grinch

pressfit bb. Pretty sure im going to die

No, you'll just wish you did

**skizix** · 08-12-2020, 07:04 PM

Originally Posted by Muggydude

Has anybody had experience with oval chain rings? My ripmo came with a 28T on it. I’ve been going nuts trying to figure out what’s causing this sort of thwudding/crunching/creak type feeling on the bike. It only occurs when I’m pedaling hard (i.e. uphill not down). It kind feels like maybe the chain is coming off the chain ring hard. You can hear it too

The cassette and derailleur are almost new and look pristine. Chain is not old either. Pedals and drivetrain move extremely freely when the bike is on the stand, and you can’t hear or feel it when the bike isn’t under load.

My only other though is possibly the BB, but there’s no actual creak sound and bearings are good. No play.

So that leads me to think somehow the oval chainring is to blame or if this is normal. The bike still pedals fine and I haven’t had any problems, just an annoying feeling and sound. Seems like it does it in all gears. Going to try a new 34T normal chain ring I have to see if that fixes it. SRAM GX 1x12 drivetrain, DUB BB/Crankset

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I went through a similar dealio, chasing a creak forever on my HD3 (which I bought, one year old, from a guy who used to work for Ibis). The bike was silent for a year or so, after which I developed a creak, which gradually got worse (naturally), to where it was driving me nuts. Seemed to be only under load. I became convinced it was the rear derailleur clutch. Replaced that (which was fine - wanted to upgrade to Eagle anyhow...*much* better with the new granny gear), but still creaking. Replaced the BB bearings (as RaceFace BB's have a bad reputation for longevity), with sweet, angular bearings. No luck. Replaced linkage bearings (which were starting to develop some crunch anyhow). Not that. 3 years in, no luck. So just rebuilt every freaking thing on the bike. Turned out to be the very last thing I did, which was the rear shock mounts. Dude who sold me the bike had used grease, not thread-lock, to install it, and they'd come loose (most likely, hastily swapped the shock out at the last minute, before selling - cuz, surely dude knew better).

Bike has been SILENT since then.

Super frustrating, but in the end: I wound up 100% overhauling the bike (which was due anyhow, and I would've surely procrastinated, so all fine). Little money wasted (BB bearings I suppose) - was going to to the Eagle upgrade anyhow.

Anyhow, just stating: on a carbon frame, any creak could literally be coming from *anywhere* (resonates so you can NOT tell - like, a stethoscope *might* help). In retrospect, I would say: don't spend any money you didn't want to already, until you check/relube/re-threadlock **EVERY** freaking thing on the bike.

Pro-tip: with a DW link, do not change the OG chainring size. If you want the full, no-bob awesomeness of DW, know that it's designed around a specific chainring size, and it's very sensitive to changing it.

**kneedropper** · 08-12-2020, 09:28 PM

Experts help me. PNW Loam lever on shimano I spec. I want to move the brake lever towards the stem while keeping the dropper lever where it is currently but it’s maxed out already in that direction. I can’t track down a solution via google. Is there an off the shelf solution I’m overlooking or do I need to MacGruber it?

**rideit** · 08-12-2020, 10:41 PM

Got a drill press?
Or does PNW sell a universal clamp?
Would this work?

https://www.pnwcomponents.com/produc...21352141422669

**El Chupacabra** · 08-13-2020, 08:02 AM

Or could you use a SRAM discrete clamp?

https://www.ebay.com/p/712028421?iid...hoCFSkQAvD_BwE

**kneedropper** · 08-13-2020, 08:21 AM

I was trying to avoid the clamp and keep the bars clean. Oh the vanity. I have the adaptor but it offsets the lever to the right and I need it to go left.

Yes on the press. I think I just need to make a small aluminum plate to use with the existing adapter that will allow me to move it over 2cm. I was hoping that I overlooked the simple solution. I should probably just buy a clamp

**jackstraw** · 08-13-2020, 09:14 AM

My Bronson just developed a noise. I only notice it on the road biking to a trail, so it's not that big of a deal, but it's still annoying. It is going to take a bit to figure out. It is speed related. Kicks in around 13mph? and off at 18mph?...I have no real idea the speed, but I'd guess within a 5mph is where it's most apparent. It's always there...pedaling, not pedaling, braking...doesn't matter. I even switched out the rear wheel...still happening. I'm starting to think it's wind hitting the little mud flap thing by the rear shock? I don't know...driving me nuts though!

**rideit** · 08-13-2020, 10:36 AM

Originally Posted by kneedropper

I was trying to avoid the clamp and keep the bars clean. Oh the vanity. I have the adaptor but it offsets the lever to the right and I need it to go left.

Yes on the press. I think I just need to make a small aluminum plate to use with the existing adapter that will allow me to move it over 2cm. I was hoping that I overlooked the simple solution. I should probably just buy a clamp

Wolftooth *might* make something that could work for you...

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/shiftmount

**Roxtar** · 08-13-2020, 12:52 PM

Originally Posted by kneedropper

I was trying to avoid the clamp and keep the bars clean. Oh the vanity. I have the adaptor but it offsets the lever to the right and I need it to go left.

Yes on the press. I think I just need to make a small aluminum plate to use with the existing adapter that will allow me to move it over 2cm. I was hoping that I overlooked the simple solution. I should probably just buy a clamp

The Shimano lever is equally adjustable left and right, IOW, no offset.
https://bike.shimano.com/en-AU/produ...-MT800-IL.html

EDIT: Not sure which iSpec version you have

**cydwhit** · 08-13-2020, 03:05 PM

I ride flats with my right foot forward. For some reason the sole of my left shoe wears out at like twice the rate of the right foot. Like my current shoes look barely ridden on the right, and like a velociraptor attacked them on the left. I've been trying to be conscious of my feet, trying to figure out if that trailing foot is moving on the pedal more, or why it's so much more beat up. My only guess is that it's not being engaged as cleanly when I bunny hop?

Anybody else run into this? Anybody have any half-baked theories on why?

**HAB** · 08-13-2020, 03:16 PM

Originally Posted by cydwhit

I ride flats with my right foot forward. For some reason the sole of my left shoe wears out at like twice the rate of the right foot. Like my current shoes look barely ridden on the right, and like a velociraptor attacked them on the left. I've been trying to be conscious of my feet, trying to figure out if that trailing foot is moving on the pedal more, or why it's so much more beat up. My only guess is that it's not being engaged as cleanly when I bunny hop?

Anybody else run into this? Anybody have any half-baked theories on why?

I wouldn't say the difference is as dramatic as you're describing, but my rear shoe (right in my case) definitely gets chewed up more. I've chalked it up to just having more weight on my back leg, and consequently digging the pins in more, but I haven't really investigated.

What shoe size do you wear? Sounds like we need to arrange a swap program.

**Andeh** · 08-13-2020, 03:47 PM

Originally Posted by cydwhit

I ride flats with my right foot forward. For some reason the sole of my left shoe wears out at like twice the rate of the right foot. Like my current shoes look barely ridden on the right, and like a velociraptor attacked them on the left. I've been trying to be conscious of my feet, trying to figure out if that trailing foot is moving on the pedal more, or why it's so much more beat up. My only guess is that it's not being engaged as cleanly when I bunny hop?

Anybody else run into this? Anybody have any half-baked theories on why?

It's normal. I have the same thing, and another guy I ride with also on flats has commented about it as well. My guess is the front foot doesn't drop the heel as much, so the pressure is more distributed. The rear heel drops more, so you have more force parallel to the face of the sole, which tears the rubber.