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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #4951
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    Jan 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tailwind View Post
    I hadn’t thought to look into Manitou but I’ll do some digging for sure. I’ve read enough good things in recent years. One thing I do like about the pike is that I’m really comfortable doing basic service. That being said, I can’t imagine it would be much to learn. I’ll look into the Mattoc.
    Manitou service is pretty damn straightforward. I had 0 experience opening up a fork when I got my Mezzer and it took me about 15 minutes to drop the lowers and adjust travel. I did a full service a couple weeks ago (excluding bleeding the damper) and was done in about 30 minutes. Didn't need to buy any tools either which is really nice, just new seals and bath oil.
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  2. #4952
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    Jan 2009
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    Saratoga Springs, NY
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    Anyone have a recommendation for a smartphone mount they would trust on singletrack? I know a Garmin/wahoo/whatever would ultimately be better but I've got an old, small smartphone kicking around that would work just fine if there was a decent way to mount it (especially if it's an easy way to move it between a couple bikes)

    Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

  3. #4953
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    Oct 2005
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    Tahoe-ish
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    Quote Originally Posted by radam View Post
    Anyone have a recommendation for a smartphone mount they would trust on singletrack? I know a Garmin/wahoo/whatever would ultimately be better but I've got an old, small smartphone kicking around that would work just fine if there was a decent way to mount it (especially if it's an easy way to move it between a couple bikes)

    Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
    Quad locks are bomber. The stick on one is fine too if you don't want a case or there isn't one for your phone.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  4. #4954
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    Nov 2009
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    CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by meter-man View Post
    Grips for big hands...whatcha got?

    Specifically...I've been using ODI Rogues for the last couple years because they are nice and thick. Recently put on some ODI Elite Flows - I love the lower-profile, less-squishy, more-direct feel. But they are noticeably smaller diameter, and made me hands a bit achey. My hands were wondering "why such a thin shaft" and "missing the usual meat..."

    So: does anyone have recs for a lower-profile, less-squishy, more-direct BUT larger diameter than Elite Flows? Basically Elite Flow but larger diameter.

    These Ergon GA2 FATs seem like they would work: https://ergonbike.shop/products/ergon-ga2-fat-1
    Quote Originally Posted by smmokan View Post
    I run the GA2 Fat grips on all of my bikes and absolutely love them. I never get forearm pump and I haven't had hand or wrist issues since switching to them a few years ago.
    Quote Originally Posted by meter-man View Post
    Sweet - thanks for the input. Ordered a pair - will report back.



    I do really like the ODI Rogues. They are fat and sqooshy, and generally pretty great. Give those a look too. (I wanted to try something with a little less sqoosh.)
    Been running the GA2 Fats. They are awesome. Elite Flow-like feel, fatter diameter - much more comfort and control. Thank you Expertz!
    sproing!

  5. #4955
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    Have a set of Shimano SLX M675 hydraulic brakes, where the left brake lever makes a single click sound (which can be felt through the lever also) when pulling the lever. Brake functions normally. Anyone here dealt with this before? Suspecting it's a return assist spring or something like that.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  6. #4956
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    Oct 2003
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    Aspen
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    8,506
    Tourque wrench suggestions? Mainly used for fork service and suspension pivots.

  7. #4957
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    Jun 2020
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    132
    Quote Originally Posted by funkendrenchman View Post
    Tourque wrench suggestions? Mainly used for fork service and suspension pivots.
    I recently bought a variety of Tekton ones, and have been happy with them. Especially like the feel on the ‘dual direction’ 1/4” drive. Price is great, and if you buy from their site you get free shipping and 10% back in ‘rewards’

  8. #4958
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    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong View Post
    I recently bought a variety of Tekton ones, and have been happy with them. Especially like the feel on the 1/4” drive. Price is great, and if you buy from their site you get free shipping and 10% back in ‘rewards’
    Agreed; I've got a big 1/2" drive Tekton. Seems to be pretty decent quality for being a "cheap" wrench.

  9. #4959
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    Dec 2010
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    3,627
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Agreed; I've got a big 1/2" drive Tekton. Seems to be pretty decent quality for being a "cheap" wrench.
    Same. Truck lug nuts seem happy

  10. #4960
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    Nov 2014
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    5,815

    Ask the experts

    If you change the air shaft in a fork (eg in a Fox 34 from 120 to 100) does this affect the effective axle to crown measurement? assuming the same sag %

  11. #4961
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    Quote Originally Posted by mall walker View Post
    If you change the air shaft in a fork (eg in a Fox 34 from 120 to 100) does this affect the effective axle to crown measurement? assuming the same sag %
    Yes. It'll be 20mm less.

  12. #4962
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    Jun 2008
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    SLCizzy
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Have a set of Shimano SLX M675 hydraulic brakes, where the left brake lever makes a single click sound (which can be felt through the lever also) when pulling the lever. Brake functions normally. Anyone here dealt with this before? Suspecting it's a return assist spring or something like that.
    I usually find it to be a little bit dirt/dust/grit stuck in the ‘servowave’ mechanism. Sometimes just a few drops of triflow will move that stuff out, or a blast of air plus triflow


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  13. #4963
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    Sep 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by joetron View Post
    I usually find it to be a little bit dirt/dust/grit stuck in the ‘servowave’ mechanism. Sometimes just a few drops of triflow will move that stuff out, or a blast of air plus triflow


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Thanks. I'll try those suggestions.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  14. #4964
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    Aug 2010
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    Park City
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    1,531
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Thanks. I'll try those suggestions.
    WD 40 followed by air compressor blast has done it for me. I think somtimes a small piece of something just finds the right spot.

  15. #4965
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Bethel, Maine
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    1,090
    The chain slap when I go to the bike park is bugging me. Is it worth trying for something fancier like the STFU bike thing, or do I just put some form of padding on so I don't hear it? Bike currently has some sticker looking thing that's got a fair bit of wear.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using TGR Forums mobile app

  16. #4966
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    wrapping an old inner tube around the chain stay is a quick n dirty method
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  17. #4967
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    Jan 2013
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    NWCT
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    3M mastic tape is great for silencing a noisy bike


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  18. #4968
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
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    14,218
    I'm running a 170mm 36 with Push coil conversion and an old Grip 1 damper. The one that only has like 3 basic compression settings. I feel like the coil is great, but have lost quite a bit of low speed sensitivity. Big Sky is LOOOSE right now and I need to do anything I can to try to get more grip in the front. Would upgrading to a Grip 2 damper be worth it? If I am going to service the fork anyway I might as well do the damper while I am at it.

  19. #4969
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    I'm running a 170mm 36 with Push coil conversion and an old Grip 1 damper. The one that only has like 3 basic compression settings. I feel like the coil is great, but have lost quite a bit of low speed sensitivity. Big Sky is LOOOSE right now and I need to do anything I can to try to get more grip in the front. Would upgrading to a Grip 2 damper be worth it? If I am going to service the fork anyway I might as well do the damper while I am at it.
    Grip 2 is substantially better than grip 1 in pretty much every regard.

    But if you're gonna service the fork + buy a new damper, you're a healthy part of the way to buying a 38. And (especially at 170mm) the 38 is substantially better than any 36, regardless of damper. Just sayin.

  20. #4970
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Grip 2 is substantially better than grip 1 in pretty much every regard.

    But if you're gonna service the fork + buy a new damper, you're a healthy part of the way to buying a 38. And (especially at 170mm) the 38 is substantially better than any 36, regardless of damper. Just sayin.
    You think all air 38 would be better than 36 with a coil?

    Weight wise they might be very close. I really don't need to make my race bike any heavier.

  21. #4971
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    Can/USA
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    You would also recoup some cost selling your 36 ( if you didn’t want it as a spare)


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  22. #4972
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    May 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sandbox View Post
    You would also recoup some cost selling your 36 ( if you didn’t want it as a spare)


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Even a 36 performance with visible scratches in the stanchion from a wreck last year (Jackson's in Moab)......zero effect on fork performance?

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

  23. #4973
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Even a 36 performance with visible scratches in the stanchion from a wreck last year (Jackson's in Moab)......zero effect on fork performance?

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
    With the parts shortage and increase in riders I’m sure you could move it with no issue. Now the question is if you can find a 38?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  24. #4974
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sandbox View Post
    With the parts shortage and increase in riders I’m sure you could move it with no issue. Now the question is if you can find a 38?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Looks like these guys have a 38 in stock......I really shouldn't be buying a new fork right now though. Can get a Grip 2 for the 36 for $300.

    https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3075611/

  25. #4975
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    You think all air 38 would be better than 36 with a coil?

    Weight wise they might be very close. I really don't need to make my race bike any heavier.
    Yup, definitely. The stiffer chassis makes the fork track a lot better in corners, but it also just means the fork is flexing less when you're hacking straight through brake bumps or whatever. Less flex = less binding in the bushings = smoother feeling pretty much everywhere.

    It's not light though. But what's a few grams?

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