Ask the experts

[Roxtar]

The aforementioned plastic insert can come out when you pull the cranks. That's why I suggested checking to make sure it's still there.

[El Chupacabra]

The aforementioned plastic insert can come out when you pull the cranks. That's why I suggested checking to make sure it's still there.

Yes, the shouldered plastic spacer doohickey is on the drive side. The multi point dust cap is on the NDS, with the SRAM logo facing out.

I torqued the crank fixing bolt to spec, splines on spindle and the inside of the NDS crank were cleaned and greased before install. I saw mention online of SRAM recommending reinstallation if there's play - I've removed and retorqued 4 or 5 times now, and no difference in the play.

[Dee Hubbs]

I’ve seen some GXP spindles that have shown wear, creating play, even when the correct spaces and torque are applied.

[El Chupacabra]

I’ve seen some GXP spindles that have shown wear, creating play, even when the correct spaces and torque are applied.

Any repair possible? Visible wear on the spindle?

[jm2e]

Well, new threaded GXP BBS are about the cheapest thing you can replace on a bike these days. Order one up form Amazon and they’ll probably deliver to your dinner table tonight.
If you’re curious, use one of the cup spacers from the new kit on the old BB ad see if that does it. If that doesn’t fix it, 90% chance you’re right and the new cups will fix everything. If new cups don’t do it, then shit. Keep us in the loop either way.
Honestly though, it feels like searching for unicorns thinking the problem is with the crank/spindle. It’s just waaay more likely to be something with the BB bearings or installation.

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[teleposeur]

When you say new HT, do you mean Hightower or hardtail?

I agree with toast 100%. Example, my hardtail has such a steep seat post angle (actual, not effective, thanks to an aggressively bent seat tube, Guerilla Gravity Pedalhead) that it’s the first bike where I’ve put the saddle clamp at the front of the rails whereas on my other bikes it’s usually been opposite.

One brand I’ve noticed that hasn’t gotten *too* steep with seat tube angles is Pivot. I think both on the Switchblade (in case Ht means Hightower) and Trail 429 the angles aren’t super progressive and make a pretty well balanced bike overall. They’ve opted for stiff frame design without super aggressive geo - it’s worth a demo if feeling balanced is at least as important to you as having fun on the rowdy bits.

Schralph, here HT means hardtail, I think I looked at the pedalhead and wanted more reach or CS or something, now I've wandered into the realms of weird british stuff, or maybe custom (hence the public agonizing) or maybe just a nice middle-of-the-road stock steel Honzo. I particularly appreciate your feed back as I'm also in Eugene, been meaning to sidle up to you since noticing you were local.

[SchralphMacchio]

Just ride my bike and go from there to figure your ideal geo, then hang out in the progressive hardtail thread before you make your geo decision!

[bagtagley]

Chup, replace the BB was my first thought, but I’m not that familiar with GXP. I had an almost identical issue with a shimano setup. I tried everything and finally, reluctantly replaced the BB which fixed the issue. Doesn’t cost much to try.

[bagtagley]

One thing to consider with the Brit hardtails is the most of the geo numbers are sagged. Not a big deal unless you’re not aware. Obviously STA is going to steepen on an HT when riding, but that effect will lessen on steep climbs where you want a steep STA the most. 74 degrees is the slackest I’d consider on an HT. That’s what mine is and I wouldn’t mind a degree or two steeper.

[El Chupacabra]

I'll order a replacement BB and see what happens. Thanks everyone.

[slowroastin]

A set of Chris King Single Speed hubs laced to WTB KOM 700 i23 popped up for sale.

Is $400 alarmingly cheap? Seller mentioned they were neglected in the past but now are good as new after a service.

My other option for a similar price point is building a set of Paul Word hubs and using a white industries freewheel I already have.


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[slowroastin]

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[rideit]

So, my new bike is basically all matte black, and I didn’t like the way the protective tape I used looked, so I am going to try this.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/3M-Scotch...lack/197249225

May work, may not, I will report back after the first few chainstay dings. I already use basic electrical tape (8.5 mil) under the straps for my frame bag to prevent chafing, but this stuff is 10 Mil, so I think it will work great for protection. It also leaves absolutely no residue if I want to replace it.

First I will try it on top of the XPEL type stuff (double wrap that rascal!) and see how it looks. Cheap enough that it’s no worry to replace if I don’t like it.

Just an experimental PSA.
Keeps the bike murdered out...

Also found this, 30mil thick.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...8744072&rt=rud

[rideit]

I think I am going to try the 30mil stuff for tubeless rim strip as well. Would be awesome to find a dual purpose tape solution.

[Bushwacka]

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IMO the rims are too narrow. Other wise they are probably fine but a tough sell to people updating their stuff .

Even 2.3 tires do better on 29-30mm internal .

[slowroastin]

IMO the rims are too narrow. Other wise they are probably fine but a tough sell to people updating their stuff .

Even 2.3 tires do better on 29-30mm internal .

I did some more research on the rim and think it may be too weak for me at 230lbs. The wheels would be for a steel single speed rigid built for gravel. I have the 50mm Panaracer Gravel Kings.

The Kings are sexy and the right color to match but I’m leaning towards Paul hubs and Velocity rims.


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[jamal]

Also found this, 30mil thick.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...8744072&rt=rud

I have a strip of that as a chainstay protector on my cx bike and my hardtail. Has stayed in place all year and is better than the like, clear tape that was on there before.

[Boissal]

Sometime last fall the subject of updating DT Swiss ratchet hubs came up and a couple people had posted good reviews about the el cheapo Ebay 54-tooth ratchets that retails for 1/3 of what DT Swiss charges. Not being one to pass on any opportunity to save a $ I bought a set and stuck it on my new ride. 200 miles later I have an update on durability: not good.

I first had an issue a couple weeks ago, the cranks were spinning freely, I looked down and the chain was still on, spun the cranks back and everything went back to normal. Weird but I didn't think much of it. Yesterday I came out of a turn cranking on the pedals and nearly went OTB when they spun freely. I stopped, the chain was on, and the cassette was happily spinning both ways, making weird rattling sounds instead of engaging. I popped the cassette and found that each of the ratchets had a broken tooth (maybe 2, hard to tell with the grease). A flake of metal was stuck in the grease between the ratchets preventing them from engaging. I cleaned the whole thing up with TP and things went back to normal.

In hindsight I could have noticed something was off about 100 miles in when the wheel started making an uneven sound when spinning. I thought it was an unbalance & slight wobble which can modulate the sound of the hub but in this case it was most likely the teeth having broken already.

Anyway, long story short, if you've upgraded your DT Swiss to 54-tooth from an ebay vendor listen to it carefully and if the hub makes an uneven sound it's probably time to replace things with legit parts.

[jm2e]

Now That’s some valuable info. Thanks for sharing.
Definitely seems like it’s at least worth keeping the old 18T ratchet in your bag just in case


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[Shaaarrrp]

To followup from a previous post about a broken crank arm, is there any difference between these two? 175 PG vs RD? Thanks

[EWG]

I think I am going to try the 30mil stuff for tubeless rim strip as well. Would be awesome to find a dual purpose tape solution.

Please report back. I need a solution to convert some old American Classic wheels on my daughter’s bike.

[sethschmautz]

Now That’s some valuable info. Thanks for sharing.
Definitely seems like it’s at least worth keeping the old 18T ratchet in your bag just in case


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I did/do that. I had a Chinese knock off 54t ratchet on my bike for several years without a single issue. I suppose that's the gamble with a part like this, though, and the reason that the US part is more expensive - a good QA program isn't free.

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[Boissal]

I did/do that. I had a Chinese knock off 54t ratchet on my bike for several years without a single issue. I suppose that's the gamble with a part like this, though, and the reason that the US part is more expensive - a good QA program isn't free.

Roll of the dice for sure, I certainly can't blame my enormous power output stressing the ratchet too much... I imagine lack of QA and possibly inferior metal quality. Good thing the swap is easy to do in the field or in my case removing the debris allowed me to finish the ride.

EDIT: just found Ebay and Amazon vendors offering a 60-tooth option. So tempting
Gold: check.
Portable: check.
Makes your bike more excellent: muthafuckin' CHECK!

[Self Jupiter]

To followup from a previous post about a broken crank arm, is there any difference between these two? 175 PG vs RD? Thanks

You have fine taste for guitar picks

[EWG]

You have fine taste for guitar picks

Except for that Fender one...