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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #126
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    If loving how cold tires feel is wrong, I don’t want to be right


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  2. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by joetron View Post
    If loving how cold tires feel is wrong, I don’t want to be right
    mmm mmm mmmmm...........love that sound
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

  3. #128
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    Speaking of suspension, and not necessarily temperature related: my shock (Fox Float DPS) has developed a wheezing sound. I hear it on and off when pedaling up, seems like it's blowing air out when compressing. Can't imagine it's good/normal. Has my fatness created an issue? Sucked air in the shock or something? Consequence of overshredding, I need a DXP2 or even burlier to match my awesome riding skills?

    Question #2 for those of you who ride in ultra dry conditions: have you found a decent chain lube that survives for more than 20 miles without attracting all the dirt particles in the world? I've been using White Lightning clean ride for a while to roam around the Wasatch but in our standard moondust conditions the lube shits the bed after a while. It works as designed I guess, grabs shit and sheds off the chain to keep it clean but it ends up being too clean after a while. I finished a ride in So Ut earlier this fall and I was legitimately worried my drivetrain was going to explode from being beat on while completely dry. So, mash some lard on the cassette before every ride? Less messy options?

  4. #129
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    ^^^ RE dry lube - I've been using this for years, living in Reno with dusty trails all summer. It used to be available at Lowe's, but YMMV on that - I just get it from Amazon now. I use the spray bottle. Goes on wet, let it soak a minute, wipe any excess... it dries on the chain and is waxy. Doesn't attract much dust, doesn't goop up at all. Cheap!

    Downside is that it doesn't last long - re lube every ride. It also doesn't cling well in wet conditions. Made by Finish Line and I think it's just repackaged FL dry lube.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00030BFEM...ding=UTF8&th=1
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  5. #130
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    In my experience, dry lube that leaves your drivetrain looking clean is synonymous with re-lubing every ride and sometimes mid ride. Which is synonymous with a drivetrain that shifts well, then doesn't shift well, then sounds like a sketchy rusted out roller coaster.. I can imagine dry lubes being great for roadies in nice weather.
    An ugly looking chain ain't bad. I've been using NFS for years, but it's harder to find now that Silca doesn't sell it. Currently using ProGold Extreme.

    Edit: And yea, your shock needs service. The answer to whether you need a shock upgrade is how much money you have to spend. Then again, if you're worried about how pretty your chain is, you're probably also worried about weight, so there's that.
    If you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it tubeless, I will. I got spare time.

  6. #131
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    YMMV on the chain lube. Drivetrains on bikes I maintain last forever, but I live in a desert and very very rarely ride in wet or mud. I'll also pull off chains 2-3 times per season and soak in degreaser to get all the gunk out.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  7. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Speaking of suspension, and not necessarily temperature related: my shock (Fox Float DPS) has developed a wheezing sound. I hear it on and off when pedaling up, seems like it's blowing air out when compressing. Can't imagine it's good/normal. Has my fatness created an issue? Sucked air in the shock or something? Consequence of overshredding, I need a DXP2 or even burlier to match my awesome riding skills?

    Question #2 for those of you who ride in ultra dry conditions: have you found a decent chain lube that survives for more than 20 miles without attracting all the dirt particles in the world? I've been using White Lightning clean ride for a while to roam around the Wasatch but in our standard moondust conditions the lube shits the bed after a while. It works as designed I guess, grabs shit and sheds off the chain to keep it clean but it ends up being too clean after a while. I finished a ride in So Ut earlier this fall and I was legitimately worried my drivetrain was going to explode from being beat on while completely dry. So, mash some lard on the cassette before every ride? Less messy options?
    Chainlube: Prolink Gold. I used to switch lubes every 6 months trying to find something that I loved in dry Colorado, found this, and was instantly done. It's excellent.
    https://www.amazon.com/Gold-Products...g-goods&sr=1-1
    I've tried just about every wax based lube (like the white lightning you reference) out there and they just don't work, in my opinion.

    Wheeze: Sounds like your fork has a leaky seal or a valve that's stuck halfway open.

  8. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by beece View Post
    Chainlube: Prolink Gold. I used to switch lubes every 6 months trying to find something that I loved in dry Colorado, found this, and was instantly done. It's excellent.
    https://www.amazon.com/Gold-Products...g-goods&sr=1-1
    I've tried just about every wax based lube (like the white lightning you reference) out there and they just don't work, in my opinion.

    Wheeze: Sounds like your fork has a leaky seal or a valve that's stuck halfway open.
    I picked up a bottle of this at the LBS recently and am never going back to finish line dry. Lasts much longer and doesn't seem to pick up too much moondust.

  9. #134
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    https://www.mec.ca/en/product/4015-4...e---4-oz-118ml

    I used prolink ^^ for a lot of years and it works well,

    https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5026-7...y-Lube---120ml

    I switched to a wax/water emulsion ^^ if you get all the old shmoo off the chain/drivetrain the drive train stays very clean, seems to work well ... at least up here

    don't let it freeze
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  10. #135
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    Yeah, I like the Squirt. Dry lube that lasts longer. Squirt Low Temp when it gets cold.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  11. #136
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    Lube should be chosen for conditions. Dry conditions like dry lube better than wet conditions. You'll get better advice from your riding buddies than the internet. Some change lubes with the seasons, which might be age related.

  12. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley View Post
    Yeah, I like the Squirt. Dry lube that lasts longer. Squirt Low Temp when it gets cold.
    If you let Squirt freeze in the shed over the winter it will thicken up to where it doesn't penetrate so well but its possible to thin out with water
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  13. #138
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    Oh, and get what’s cheap or at least buy in bulk. Nothing like coming up dry because you were reluctant to hose that shit down!
    They used to have a great deal on multipacks of that Pro Link stuff at Performance. One of the only things Performance was good for.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    If you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it tubeless, I will. I got spare time.

  14. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    ^^^ RE dry lube - I've been using this for years, living in Reno with dusty trails all summer. It used to be available at Lowe's, but YMMV on that - I just get it from Amazon now. I use the spray bottle. Goes on wet, let it soak a minute, wipe any excess... it dries on the chain and is waxy. Doesn't attract much dust, doesn't goop up at all. Cheap!
    Downside is that it doesn't last long - re lube every ride. It also doesn't cling well in wet conditions. Made by Finish Line and I think it's just repackaged FL dry lube.
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00030BFEM...ding=UTF8&th=1
    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    In my experience, dry lube that leaves your drivetrain looking clean is synonymous with re-lubing every ride and sometimes mid ride. Which is synonymous with a drivetrain that shifts well, then doesn't shift well, then sounds like a sketchy rusted out roller coaster.. I can imagine dry lubes being great for roadies in nice weather.
    An ugly looking chain ain't bad. I've been using NFS for years, but it's harder to find now that Silca doesn't sell it. Currently using ProGold Extreme.
    Edit: And yea, your shock needs service. The answer to whether you need a shock upgrade is how much money you have to spend. Then again, if you're worried about how pretty your chain is, you're probably also worried about weight, so there's that.
    Quote Originally Posted by beece View Post
    Chainlube: Prolink Gold. I used to switch lubes every 6 months trying to find something that I loved in dry Colorado, found this, and was instantly done. It's excellent.
    https://www.amazon.com/Gold-Products...g-goods&sr=1-1
    I've tried just about every wax based lube (like the white lightning you reference) out there and they just don't work, in my opinion.
    Wheeze: Sounds like your fork has a leaky seal or a valve that's stuck halfway open.
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    https://www.mec.ca/en/product/4015-4...e---4-oz-118ml
    I used prolink ^^ for a lot of years and it works well,
    https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5026-7...y-Lube---120ml
    I switched to a wax/water emulsion ^^ if you get all the old shmoo off the chain/drivetrain the drive train stays very clean, seems to work well ... at least up here
    don't let it freeze
    Quote Originally Posted by jono View Post
    Lube should be chosen for conditions. Dry conditions like dry lube better than wet conditions. You'll get better advice from your riding buddies than the internet. Some change lubes with the seasons, which might be age related.
    Thanks all, that gives me a good starting point.
    Jono, the Wasatch only knows 1 set of conditions: dry as can be. Thus my asking for people with experience in similarly bone dry and dusty environments.
    Jm2e, I really don't care about the look of my drivetrain as long as it shifts well and is relatively quiet. If coating it in black tar meant good performance I'd go that route...

    Re: shock, I figured it needed to be serviced. Is it worth attempting to do on my own or are the $150 Fox is asking money well spent?

  15. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Thanks all, that gives me a good starting point.
    Jono, the Wasatch only knows 1 set of conditions: dry as can be. Thus my asking for people with experience in similarly bone dry and dusty environments.
    Jm2e, I really don't care about the look of my drivetrain as long as it shifts well and is relatively quiet. If coating it in black tar meant good performance I'd go that route...

    Re: shock, I figured it needed to be serviced. Is it worth attempting to do on my own or are the $150 Fox is asking money well spent?
    I've been happiest with Dumonde Tech here in Utah. I wipe, apply, and wipe excess before every ride. Two minute routine while I check air pressure.

    As far as self servicing the shock, I was told it takes specialized tools and nitrogen purged something or other. So I paid to have it fixed.

  16. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Re: shock, I figured it needed to be serviced. Is it worth attempting to do on my own or are the $150 Fox is asking money well spent?
    Send it to Fox or have Go Ride do it. A basic air sleeve service is a very DIY-able job, but something is probably buggered in the damper and that's a job for pros.

  17. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    Send it to Fox or have Go Ride do it. A basic air sleeve service is a very DIY-able job, but something is probably buggered in the damper and that's a job for pros.
    Oh snap, Go Ride seems like the way to go for us SLC peeps. I think I may limp on that shock for a few more weeks and once the snow flies I'll take it in, thanks!

  18. #143
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    Is going to the suspension syndicate (Cody iirc?) in salt lake a good call? He used to be the suspension guy at go ride before heading out on his own....


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    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  19. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by detrusor View Post
    Is going to the suspension syndicate (Cody iirc?) in salt lake a good call? He used to be the suspension guy at go ride before heading out on his own....


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Definitely, he’s the best in town by a lot. Fastest turnaround to. And you can pre schedule on his website.
    There's nothing better than sliding down snow... flying through the air.

  20. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by detrusor View Post
    Is going to the suspension syndicate (Cody iirc?) in salt lake a good call? He used to be the suspension guy at go ride before heading out on his own....


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Yep. Cody is the man.
    He’ll be spending a lot of time in Moab this winter, so be sure to call ahead before heading down to Suspension Syndicate


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  21. #146
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    That guy is awesome

    I mailed him a dhx2 a few years ago with a bag full of home made internal spacers and piston head nonsense and said 'here, do this'

    And he did
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

  22. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by beaterdit View Post
    Definitely, he’s the best in town by a lot. Fastest turnaround to. And you can pre schedule on his website.
    I had heard about this guy before but completely forgot about him, thanks for the reminder.

  23. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    I had heard about this guy before but completely forgot about him, thanks for the reminder.
    Reached out to him this AM, we'll see what he says. Of course the shock sounds perfectly normal now even though I could have sworn I was riding an overweight asthmatic pig this weekend. Something's definitely wrong though, the fucker is way more damp than it should be even with rebound cranked up...

  24. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    the fucker is way more damp than it should be even with rebound cranked up...
    Um......
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

  25. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by kidwoo View Post
    Um......
    What I'm trying to convey is that there has been a sudden change in performance. My wording probably sucks, I'm bad at describing how bikes/skis feel, I just adapt to things rather than tinker. I couldn't write a review to save my life, I usually end up being happy with whatever I'm on.
    I keep an eye on the shock pressure to make sure it's steady and I've rarely if ever touched any of the settings. Last weekend the bike felt very different in a way I couldn't really describe other than more damp and less lively than usual, kinda sluggish. So I played with settings on the rebound and even 5 extra cliks in the open direction didn't make an appreciable difference (starting at the middle which is where I've been since I got the bike). Pressure was unchanged when I checked it that night. That plus the new squishing sounds make me think something's off. Odd as I haven't taken any major hits or bottomed out the shock recently. Since I don't know what I'm doing I'll have someone who does look at it...

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