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[grinch]

Sprindex looks cool, but one review found that the spring rates were off from what was stated, and the actual adjustment range was not that large.
https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/co...spring-review/

Oh sorry i missed your final question on your op, i would say the 500-610 would be what youre after. Sounds like the best option too

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[MegaStoke]

just carry on?Attachment 383799Attachment 383800

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I’d fill that in with some good quality epoxy resin and never think about it again.

[Andeh]

Cane Creek makes progressive springs in 450-550 and 500-610. Coming off a 550, which should I try first?

The latter for sure. I used a CC Progressive on my Sentinel. The ramp up comes mostly in the last 25% if I remember correctly.

[Falcon3]

OneUp Alloy pedals.

I bought a new bearing kit. It came with this small rubber washer. This washer wasn’t on the pedals and isn’t in the instructions at all. Where does it go?!

[grinch]

OneUp Alloy pedals.

I bought a new bearing kit. It came with this small rubber washer. This washer wasn’t on the pedals and isn’t in the instructions at all. Where does it go?!

It would have to be at the far outside of one end of the pedal, crank side or outer edge. Its to stop water/dirt ingress. The size and fit should be obvious. Looking at the size from your pic id say its going to be the outer edge just before you put the fastener on to hold the pedal on

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[Rossymcg]

I’d fill that in with some good quality epoxy resin and never think about it again.

yep pretty much what I'm gona do minus the epoxy resin bit. Been smashing about today on it with no drama

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[grinch]

If that ding didnt have a crack forming out of it you might be ok. I dont think that crack is going to stay as is. At the very least od put epoxy on it and hit it with a heat gun so the epoxy runs into all the tight spots and hopefully the crack. You definitely want to keep an eye on it. Id hate for that to fail at speed

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[XXX-er]

that ^^ looks like its only thru the gel coat ?

Unless you slatehr a bunch of epoxy & CF probably getting it proffesionaly done a fix isnt gona do much but keep out the water in which case I would fill the divot with epoxy, tape a piece of plastic over it to approximate the curve of the frame and when it cured you would be left with a nice smoovely finished/ waterproof app of epoxy

[MegaStoke]

yep pretty much what I'm gona do minus the epoxy resin bit. Been smashing about today on it with no drama

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May as well fill it, can’t hurt, and only takes a few minutes. I did the same to a carbon crank arm and it’s still going strong 1000 miles later.

[Benneke10]

Why haven't other companies copied Specialized's SWAT system yet? It would be really cool to store tools/tube/snacks inside the downtube but I don't want to be stuck with Spesh.

[nickwm21]

It’s patented


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[Benneke10]

I'm sure someone could figure out a way to provide downtube storage working around the patent, but then again Specialized doesn't have the best reputation with frivolous lawsuits

[dcpnz]

I thought many Trek bikes have storage in downtube as well. No idea how they get around any patent issues though


Murphy’s law: my first ride in several years without a pack, tools and spares resulted in a 3 mile walk out so I’m currently trying to figure out the best way to strap all sorts of shit to my frame so I can ride packless.

[jamal]

I keep a tube, co2, and lever strapped to my saddle rails, mutli tool and plugs in pockets. I can stick a pump on a bottle cage mount if i want, and have def been burned by only bringing co2 and no pump. Rode without a pack or a pump today but it was fairly short and on mostly smooth trails.

I have a backcountry research strap that I like but I think I'm going to pick up one like the blackburn or dakine that actually protect the tube a bit. I'm not fully confident mine doesn't have a hole in it. Or i guess i could get that cover thing they make.

[Rossymcg]

If that ding didnt have a crack forming out of it you might be ok. I dont think that crack is going to stay as is. At the very least od put epoxy on it and hit it with a heat gun so the epoxy runs into all the tight spots and hopefully the crack. You definitely want to keep an eye on it. Id hate for that to fail at speed

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I'm gona take it to a carbon frame repair place close by to me. a simple patch no paint shouldn't cost too much

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[rideit]

I thought many Trek bikes have storage in downtube as well. No idea how they get around any patent issues though


Murphy’s law: my first ride in several years without a pack, tools and spares resulted in a 3 mile walk out so I’m currently trying to figure out the best way to strap all sorts of shit to my frame so I can ride packless.

This is what is working for me. I usually just run the top tube bag in the spring and fall for a jacket or vest.


(Wolftooth tools in the handlebar)

[Rossymcg]

This is what is working for me. I usually just run the top tube bag in the spring and fall for a jacket or vest.


(Wolftooth tools in the handlebar)

if you use all travel does the saddle bag get snagged?

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[grinch]

I'm gona take it to a carbon frame repair place close by to me. a simple patch no paint shouldn't cost too much

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Probably good to have their eyes on it. Piece of mind kind of thing at the very least. Curious how it ends up

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[cydwhit]

Ok, having issues with an FSA KFX crankset on a Transition Spur. I bought the BB FSA recommended, and set it up per their instructions for the Spur's 73 mm wide BB, with one 2.5 mm spacer on the drive side. In that configuration, the 32T chainring is almost rubbing the chain stay all the time, like it left a line in the ride wrap on the chain stay after I rode it around the block. That didn't seem ideal, so I started experimenting, with 2 2.5 mm spacers on the drive side, the chainring is in a much better place, but the cranks won't spin smoothly when I tighten them down. So I tried flipping the chainring around, futzing with different spacer combos, and generally trying every option I could come up with. No luck. At this point, I can't figure out how to get the chainring in the right place, while also having the cranks spin smoothly in the BB. I know I'm an idiot, but what am I missing?

[toast2266]

Ok, having issues with an FSA KFX crankset on a Transition Spur. I bought the BB FSA recommended, and set it up per their instructions for the Spur's 73 mm wide BB, with one 2.5 mm spacer on the drive side. In that configuration, the 32T chainring is almost rubbing the chain stay all the time, like it left a line in the ride wrap on the chain stay after I rode it around the block. That didn't seem ideal, so I started experimenting, with 2 2.5 mm spacers on the drive side, the chainring is in a much better place, but the cranks won't spin smoothly when I tighten them down. So I tried flipping the chainring around, futzing with different spacer combos, and generally trying every option I could come up with. No luck. At this point, I can't figure out how to get the chainring in the right place, while also having the cranks spin smoothly in the BB. I know I'm an idiot, but what am I missing?

Flipping the chainring didn't work? I'd think that'd you'd flip the ring and then do 1 spacer on the non drive to bring the chainring back over a bit.

[Rossymcg]

invisiframe or not?

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[cydwhit]

I thought I'd tried every possible combination of flipped chainring and spacers, but I totally whiffed on that obvious solution. Chainring isn't touching the frame anymore, and spins smooth. Visually the chainline in the 50T is horrendous, but it probably was like that with the old cranks too and I just never noticed. Thanks!

[toast2266]

I thought I'd tried every possible combination of flipped chainring and spacers, but I totally whiffed on that obvious solution. Chainring isn't touching the frame anymore, and spins smooth. Visually the chainline in the 50T is horrendous, but it probably was like that with the old cranks too and I just never noticed. Thanks!

I had to get the ring on my spur as close to the stay as possible (without rubbing, obviously) to get the drivetrain running nice. Sounds like that might be tricky with that crank / ring combo.

[XtrPickels]

I just picked up a Switchblade yesterday and it has a float X. I didn’t have any big issues yesterday on my first ride but we’ll see if I start bottoming out regularly. Update what your results if you don’t mind. I’d try a few more PSI. Pivot has two sag settings on most of their bikes ‘trail’ and ‘race’ so I think even with DW link you have a little wiggle room on the sag.

Not a cheap fix but Cascade Link started offering switchblade linkage. I tend to really trust pivots suspension tunes but I am curious enough I may try it next year.

Bigger (est) spacer was feeling really harsh.
Spent some time trying to balance higher pressure with a smaller spacer, probably could have lived with a decrease in small bump sensitivity to gain a bit of protection at the end stroke. At least I wasn't feeling too much harshness with the bottoms anymore, but still bottoming out ~50% of the time that I got the wheels significantly off the ground.

But, I'm a slut for new bike parts, so I just bought a Cascade link. Will report back when it's here.

[Boissal]

invisiframe or not?

I say yes. Even without resale value in mind it's nice to know that when you lay the bike into stuff it's going to have a bit extra protection. I get that bikes are supposed to be ridden and look the part but every time I put big old gouges in mine I hate myself and the invisiframe has done a suprisingly good job protecting from more damage. Install isn't the most fun, definitely a 6-pack job, but if you don't have anything going on that night there are worse ways to spend time.