Ask the experts

[Sandbox]

WorldWide Cyclery,
and
Universal Cycles

Thanks dude! I’ll take a peak

[Sandbox]

Another one for the experts.... while building up my chromag steel hardtail i noticed it has a sleeve in the seat tube which i assume is to stop your seat post from rusting in your frame but this one is a touch small to put my dropper in. Can i run without it? Should i just lube the post and push it through ( yes the post is the right size)

[HankScorpio]

Another one for the experts.... while building up my chromag steel hardtail i noticed it has a sleeve in the seat tube which i assume is to stop your seat post from rusting in your frame but this one is a touch small to put my dropper in. Can i run without it? Should i just lube the post and push it through ( yes the post is the right size)

I bought a second hand Chromag frame from a buddy and there was no sleeve. I’ve put friction paste in there and never had an issue. I wouldn’t worry about it.

As I’ve heard, decent steel bike tubing has corrosion resistant material on the inside. I own 3 steel frames and use grease/friction paste, never any seized seatposts.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Sandbox]

I bought a second hand Chromag frame from a buddy and there was no sleeve. I’ve put friction paste in there and never had an issue. I wouldn’t worry about it.

As I’ve heard, decent steel bike tubing has corrosion resistant material on the inside. I own 3 steel frames and use grease/friction paste, never any seized seatposts.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

solid idea! I’ll add it to the list once I head to the bike store.

[El Chupacabra]

Do you have calipers? Measure the inside diameter of the seat tube, both with and without the insert.

For all I know, maybe Chromag ships with a shim pre-installed for 30.9, and you remove it for 31.6.

[Dee Hubbs]

Chromag does not use any shims, and all seat post diameters should be 31.6.
Maybe the previous owner had an undersized post and used a shim then he couldn't /didn't remove.

[Sandbox]

I do not have a set of Calipers unfortunately but I know someone who does....

The shim easily comes out and I’m pretty sure it’s a 30.9. My dropper is 31.6 so it sounds like I should be good to go without that damn shim!


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[XXX-er]

ask cromag ?
but you have already done that

[Sandbox]

If this question went unanswered here I would have reached out to chromag but I knew you mags would have the answer, or an answer....


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[XXX-er]

I could give you an answer but would it be right ?

[John_B]

Unrelated to the Current Chromag Caliper Controversy (I'll let myself out) but I just wanted to give Park Tool a shout out for the Calvin and Truman maintenance Youtube videos. As a hack bike mechanic those things have helped me out more than I'd care to admit.

[D(C)]

I've had 2 Rootdown frames (2016 and 2019) and neither came with a sleeve in the seat tube.

[Roxtar]

It must be an aftermarket shim that the previous owner installed for his 30.9 post. Problem Solvers makes them.
Throw it out and used as is.

[rideit]

Save it in your toolbox, could come in handy for yourself or someone else in the future.

[bagtagley]

Definitely a shim, and definitely keep it for later. I always buy 30.9 posts cause they'll fit any (recent) bike with a shim. Can't make a 34.9 fit a smaller hole.

[Sandbox]

All good info! I will forsure save it as its just one of those parts you seem to need sometimes but can never find (or maybe a mag needs it down the road).

I didn't think i needed it but i did buy the frame from a mechanic ( he never mentioned it) so i thought it was somewhat needed.

Man i can't wait to get this bike up and rolling... weather needs to get better and i'm still waiting on a couple of parts.

[HankScorpio]

All this free time has me thinking of a new fork for my Chromag Surface. It currently has a last gen Pike and I’m thinking of putting a coil fork on it. I’ve got a few riding buddies singing the praises of their coil converted forks.

I like the new Z1 but Cane Creek and MRP seem to have good options too. There is also the Push conversion but I’m hesitant to do that bc the Push coil kit costs more than my 3 year old Pike is worth.

Anyone running a coil fork? I haven’t used one since the Marzocchi coil forks of the early 2000s.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Roxtar]

I went with the PUSH coil conversion on both my Nomad (Fox 36) and my wife's Juliana (Pike) for opposite reasons.
The coil front matches my Nomad's coil rear perfectly and makes a very good bike an absolute DH monster. Just point and shoot.
My wife is very light (105lbs) and no amount of tuning could get her Pike to work well. The Vorsprung tune and air shaft helped somewhat but still had the same issue; by the time you dropped the pressure low enough for her weight, the fork just became dead. The lightweight PUSH coil made all the difference. She finally knows what front suspension feels like. Small bump sensitivity is amazing while still having midstroke support. The PUSH air bumper gives additional support against bottoming out.

[jm2e]

Same experience with my wife on the push ACS Coil. She's got it on 2 bikes now (both with Fox 36). It's insane how little stiction there is now!

One thing PUSH pays a lot of attention to is rattle. This isn't your Marz fork of old with a spring rattling around inside. It's a silent assassin.
(They told me it's the reason they don't make a kit longer than 170mm)

[Dee Hubbs]

Just a reminder, once you transform an air fork to a coil conversion, you can’t change your mind and go back to the air spring.
The spring will score the inside of the fork leg stanchion, and an air spring will never properly seal again.

[jm2e]

Just a reminder, once you transform an air fork to a coil conversion, you can’t change your mind and go back to the air spring.
You'll never even consider it actually. And you'll be wondering if you can convert all your other shocks and forks to coil too.

Fixed.

[volklpowdermaniac]

Having trouble with my non-drive side xtr trail pedal (9120). Feels as if it’s all of the sudden developed more float, my heel can move all over the place. No issue with the drive side. checked the spindle crank interface seems tight. As does the cleat tightness into the shoe (giro chamber 2). So thoughts are:
is the cleat itself fouled?
the pedal?
something in the interface mechanism?

weirdly turning up the “din” yesterday seemed to make it worse (99.9%) positive I turned it up not down.

anyways...

[simple]

Photo of the cleat?

[skaredshtles]

Fixed.

I'm on a Ribbon coil (160) and am strongly considering getting a coil shock in the not-too-distant future.

[nick_B10]

Having trouble with my non-drive side xtr trail pedal (9120). Feels as if it’s all of the sudden developed more float, my heel can move all over the place. No issue with the drive side. checked the spindle crank interface seems tight. As does the cleat tightness into the shoe (giro chamber 2). So thoughts are:
is the cleat itself fouled?
the pedal?
something in the interface mechanism?

weirdly turning up the “din” yesterday seemed to make it worse (99.9%) positive I turned it up not down.

anyways...

I've found that generation of XTR pedals really sensitive to cleat wear. I always notice cleats wearing out on my XTRs before i notice it on other pedals. Replace the cleats and everything will be good again, even if the don't look that worn out.