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Thread: Ask the experts
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05-31-2023, 11:46 AM #10626
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05-31-2023, 11:56 AM #10627
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05-31-2023, 04:06 PM #10628
Rockshox newbie here, just got a 2021 Lyrik Ulimate RC2. Using the Rockshox Trailhead app I see recommended settings based on my weight for Air Pressure and Rebound, but nothing for LSC or HSC. Am i missing something? DVO and Fox provide at least a starting point for LSC and HSC. I have good understanding how LSC and HSC work, and have tuned them with some success in the past, but figuring that out from scratch seems odd. WTF
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05-31-2023, 04:28 PM #10629Not a skibum
- Join Date
- Aug 2002
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- PA
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- 2,648
Ask the experts
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Last edited by VTskibum; 05-31-2023 at 07:40 PM.
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05-31-2023, 10:02 PM #10630
Have to admit, this gave me a little chub. Much like the photobruhed bolt-on girls of the padded room, I may lose enthusiasm after the first day if I actually got one. But that’d be at least one day of very enthusiastic bathing.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR ForumsHowever many are in a shit ton.
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06-01-2023, 01:43 PM #10631Registered User
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- Aug 2013
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- shadow of HS butte
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- 6,397
Thanks. I had a ride yesterday on the settings I posted and was pleasantly surprised that..
1. I actually felt a major difference
2. The change was positive
Way less harsh off the top, like very noticeable in chunder. Bike park opens next week and am planning on fine tuning from current settings, will try slowing down the LSR some.
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06-01-2023, 08:07 PM #10632
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06-01-2023, 08:10 PM #10633
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06-01-2023, 08:29 PM #10634
To compress a spring further requires you to apply more force, and the spring is pushing back against you.
A linear coil spring is the simplest - usually measured as something like ‘50 pounds/inch’. So to compress the spring one inch you apply 50 lbs., to compress it 2”, you apply 100 lbs., etc.
When you’re deep in travel, that spring is really loaded up and pushing back with a lot of force. That’s all well and good when YOU are applying the opposing force and things are balanced (a very temporary situation, typically), but when you unload, it’s now up to the damper to control the release of that force (energy really) that has been put into the spring.
Less compressed spring -> less force you need to control on rebound. More compressed spring -> more force that needs to be controlled on rebound.
All that said, I’d normally consider ‘high speed rebound’ the adjustment to play with here, though that may depend on the specific behavior you’re trying to correct. If the fork is kicking back to quickly after some big hits - like through a rock garden at speed - where the fork compressed deeply, then on rebound the wheel is in the air or at least very lightly loaded, then that’s a high speed rebound situation. But coming out of a compression or something, where the wheels are staying on the ground, that could be a low speed rebound situation.
(I know, not the J you were hoping for.)
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06-01-2023, 09:22 PM #10635
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06-01-2023, 09:36 PM #10636
Yes. depends on the heat and solution.
Anything that contains Lye I.E. simple green will strip anodization. I mostly use Dawn soap these days. Works as good to better than simple green and less likely to strip the anodization. I have found in addition to time in the ultrasonic, the temp setting also affects this. Hotter the temp more likely it will strip it.
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06-01-2023, 11:42 PM #10637
Ask the experts
Yep, basically this. Rebound damping needs at the beginning of the shock stroke are very different than the end of the shock stroke.
There is a lot more stored spring energy that wants to buck you when you get deep into the travel, so more HSR damping gives you a lot more control as it transitions back to the top 1/3 of travel. Then you can use your LSR to tune for a bouncier, more playful ride, works better for quick chattery stuff; or a more LSR for slower, more stuck-to-the-ground feel. Better for swoopy G-out control and less frequent big hits.
Riding around Park City I had a lot more compression damping and slower rebound compared to Durango. When I moved here I struggled with setup for a few weeks before Diaz set me straight. Learned a lot since then.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
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06-02-2023, 01:02 AM #10638
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06-02-2023, 01:39 AM #10639
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06-02-2023, 09:17 AM #10640
The more I ride this Druid, the more I like it. And the recently released V2 looks like they've refined it even further. Grizzly has it for demo and Vital just put out a video on it detailing the descending characteristics, which I found relatable to my experience on the Druid.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
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06-02-2023, 10:40 AM #10641Registered User
- Join Date
- Nov 2011
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- 2,469
I just melt candles and bees wax. One of the reasons I like wax is because it's quiet.
I tried an Amazon ultrasonic washer and it did not clean that well. An old dishwasher in the garage is what I use to wash bike parts, car parts, boots, and cruddy alpine gear.
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06-02-2023, 12:21 PM #10642
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06-02-2023, 12:46 PM #10643
Just had all this happen with a fairly new XT derailleur, about 8 mo old and less than 500 miles or so. Shifting just went to shit "all of a sudden" and I did all the things: aligned the hangar, countless adjustments, checked thru axle tightness, hangar tightness, etc. etc. etc. I don't recall any significant crashes or bashes to the thing, but when I really had a look at the derailleur itself, I noticed the pulleys were out of alignment and that the cage had been bent and twisted a bit. It may have happened on a recent flight back from MX, in my case. Anycrap, took to the local shop and they confirmed bent/twisted and got it fixed about 90% back to good by gently persuading it with a pair of vice grips. In the end I decided to just chuck a new XT on there and it immediately shifted at 100%, so now I have a mostly good backup if this one detonates. One riding buddy of mine has said mine is the third Shimano derailleur of his friends that he's seen or heard of get a bit bent or twisted. Anecdotal, for sure.
teledad, did you ever have a look at that old one? Was it bent or anything?
NT, like you I've had SRAM stuff for probably 10 years prior to this new bike and never had an issue like this.
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06-02-2023, 01:02 PM #10644
Had the same experience, more or less. Second xt derailleur died pretty quick too.
I've heard XTR's hold up better. But I just went back to sram. The shimano chains and cassettes shift nice, but the xt derailleurs are worthless. Sram derailleur / shifter with shimano chain / cassette seems like the best option.
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06-02-2023, 01:16 PM #10645
I mangled the XTR that came on my bike pretty badly within months of having it. That said, it was definitely more than a tap.
Replacement cages are available (or at least they have part numbers). But a replacement XTR cage is about the the same price as an XT derailleur, so I just went with that. It’s been holding up fine in the two years since.
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06-02-2023, 01:25 PM #10646
Tried to help a buddy with an XTR der, busted out the Abbey alignment tool and the hanger was dead straight. Cage, not so much...
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06-02-2023, 01:55 PM #10647Nothing happens now
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- Dec 2004
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- Conformist, Complacent State
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- 696
I've beat the hell out of my xtr der. Good as day one, hell I've dropped/crashed hard on drive side and don't think twice about laying bike down on the drive side.
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06-02-2023, 02:10 PM #10648
Like everyone else above my experience has been: When mint the XT shifts like a dream, but it seems delicate and I have gone through several rear mechs. Eagle honestly never shifted that nice IMO, but they are built tougher I think and can take more hits.
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06-02-2023, 02:26 PM #10649
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06-02-2023, 02:49 PM #10650Registered User
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- Oct 2017
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- Evergreen Co
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- 969
Yep. A slight tap and the cage will never be the same.
I’ve been watching for the replacements for about a year without success. Always out of stock. I have 3 broken derailleurs in my parts bin waiting for new cages.
X01 has been solid on my other bike on the same terrain for 4 years without needing anything.
XTR is defiantly stronger but $$$.
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