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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #10626
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    The chain manufacturers don’t want you to know this one great trick:

    Bristles with cleaner glued to the first hoop, sponge with lube glued to the second. Constant cleaning and lube. Done!

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #10627
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    Quote Originally Posted by g_man80 View Post
    The chain manufacturers don’t want you to know this one great trick:

    Bristles with cleaner glued to the first hoop, sponge with lube glued to the second. Constant cleaning and lube. Done!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    GTFO

  3. #10628
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    Feb 2016
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    Rockshox newbie here, just got a 2021 Lyrik Ulimate RC2. Using the Rockshox Trailhead app I see recommended settings based on my weight for Air Pressure and Rebound, but nothing for LSC or HSC. Am i missing something? DVO and Fox provide at least a starting point for LSC and HSC. I have good understanding how LSC and HSC work, and have tuned them with some success in the past, but figuring that out from scratch seems odd. WTF

  4. #10629
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    Aug 2002
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    Ask the experts

    ….
    Last edited by VTskibum; 05-31-2023 at 07:40 PM.

  5. #10630
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    Apr 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunder View Post
    Have to admit, this gave me a little chub. Much like the photobruhed bolt-on girls of the padded room, I may lose enthusiasm after the first day if I actually got one. But that’d be at least one day of very enthusiastic bathing.



    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    However many are in a shit ton.

  6. #10631
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    Quote Originally Posted by joetron View Post
    These are clicks from closed?
    I might try closing down LSR some more. Go 2 or 3 clicks from closed. Thats a lot of spring energy to control deep in the travel. If it’s returning fast you’re gonna feel it.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Thanks. I had a ride yesterday on the settings I posted and was pleasantly surprised that..
    1. I actually felt a major difference
    2. The change was positive

    Way less harsh off the top, like very noticeable in chunder. Bike park opens next week and am planning on fine tuning from current settings, will try slowing down the LSR some.

  7. #10632
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunder View Post
    Attachment 460434

    Attachment 460435

    The quickest and best way I’ve found to clean a chain, cassette and sprockets is to just dump it all in an ultrasonic cleaner with some Dawn professional soap and water. 15-30 minutes later it will all look like new

    I’m not a fan of the chain wax dip at all. Tried it and will never do it again. Imop there is way better lube options but I don’t give a rats ass to go down that rabbit hole.
    Have you found it safe with anodized parts?

    Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk
    No matter where you go, there you are. - BB

  8. #10633
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    Quote Originally Posted by joetron View Post
    These are clicks from closed?
    I might try closing down LSR some more. Go 2 or 3 clicks from closed. Thats a lot of spring energy to control deep in the travel. If it’s returning fast you’re gonna feel it.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    J what do you mean by "lots of spring energy to control deep in the travel?"

    Educate me
    Thx

    Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk
    No matter where you go, there you are. - BB

  9. #10634
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinipenem View Post
    J what do you mean by "lots of spring energy to control deep in the travel?"

    Educate me
    Thx

    Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk
    To compress a spring further requires you to apply more force, and the spring is pushing back against you.

    A linear coil spring is the simplest - usually measured as something like ‘50 pounds/inch’. So to compress the spring one inch you apply 50 lbs., to compress it 2”, you apply 100 lbs., etc.

    When you’re deep in travel, that spring is really loaded up and pushing back with a lot of force. That’s all well and good when YOU are applying the opposing force and things are balanced (a very temporary situation, typically), but when you unload, it’s now up to the damper to control the release of that force (energy really) that has been put into the spring.

    Less compressed spring -> less force you need to control on rebound. More compressed spring -> more force that needs to be controlled on rebound.

    All that said, I’d normally consider ‘high speed rebound’ the adjustment to play with here, though that may depend on the specific behavior you’re trying to correct. If the fork is kicking back to quickly after some big hits - like through a rock garden at speed - where the fork compressed deeply, then on rebound the wheel is in the air or at least very lightly loaded, then that’s a high speed rebound situation. But coming out of a compression or something, where the wheels are staying on the ground, that could be a low speed rebound situation.

    (I know, not the J you were hoping for.)

  10. #10635
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinipenem View Post
    Have you found it safe with anodized parts?

    Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk
    I ruined the anodization on a XX1 Eagle cassette in an ultrasonic washer. Pretty sure it was filled with undiluted simple green though…

  11. #10636
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinipenem View Post
    Have you found it safe with anodized parts?

    Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk
    Yes. depends on the heat and solution.

    Quote Originally Posted by MegaStoke View Post
    I ruined the anodization on a XX1 Eagle cassette in an ultrasonic washer. Pretty sure it was filled with undiluted simple green though…
    Anything that contains Lye I.E. simple green will strip anodization. I mostly use Dawn soap these days. Works as good to better than simple green and less likely to strip the anodization. I have found in addition to time in the ultrasonic, the temp setting also affects this. Hotter the temp more likely it will strip it.

  12. #10637
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    Jun 2008
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    Ask the experts

    Quote Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong View Post
    To compress a spring further requires you to apply more force, and the spring is pushing back against you.

    A linear coil spring is the simplest - usually measured as something like ‘50 pounds/inch’. So to compress the spring one inch you apply 50 lbs., to compress it 2”, you apply 100 lbs., etc.

    When you’re deep in travel, that spring is really loaded up and pushing back with a lot of force. That’s all well and good when YOU are applying the opposing force and things are balanced (a very temporary situation, typically), but when you unload, it’s now up to the damper to control the release of that force (energy really) that has been put into the spring.

    Less compressed spring -> less force you need to control on rebound. More compressed spring -> more force that needs to be controlled on rebound.
    Yep, basically this. Rebound damping needs at the beginning of the shock stroke are very different than the end of the shock stroke.
    There is a lot more stored spring energy that wants to buck you when you get deep into the travel, so more HSR damping gives you a lot more control as it transitions back to the top 1/3 of travel. Then you can use your LSR to tune for a bouncier, more playful ride, works better for quick chattery stuff; or a more LSR for slower, more stuck-to-the-ground feel. Better for swoopy G-out control and less frequent big hits.

    Riding around Park City I had a lot more compression damping and slower rebound compared to Durango. When I moved here I struggled with setup for a few weeks before Diaz set me straight. Learned a lot since then.


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  13. #10638
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    May 2012
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    People's Republic of OB
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    Quote Originally Posted by MegaStoke View Post
    I ruined the anodization on a XX1 Eagle cassette in an ultrasonic washer. Pretty sure it was filled with undiluted simple green though…
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunder View Post
    I have found in addition to time in the ultrasonic, the temp setting also affects this. Hotter the temp more likely it will strip it.
    Which ultrasonic cleaner are you guys using? Interested in recco's

  14. #10639
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    May 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by evdog View Post
    Which ultrasonic cleaner are you guys using? Interested in recco's
    All of the nicer Chinese units are made by the same mfg and just rebranded. They all look identical a square 10L is the size you want. Someone posted an Amazon link for $175. I paid only $100 for mine on sale at Grizzy industrial a few years ago.

  15. #10640
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    Feb 2018
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    586
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Not sure I ever actually weighed it, but I'm remembering 37.5# for some reason with pedals. DD casings, cush core, burly fucking wheels, no carbon parts but the front triangle, etc.

    I spend the majority of the summer riding Big Sky Bike Park. You need a real sled to ride there, Silver, etc etc so I can't get rid of this bike. Trail rides near town? Racing in Helena? Big divide rides, etc? Yeah I need to get like a 130mm bike. Saw a Druid out of the trail. Fuck that looks sexy. Sounds like the rear end on that bike is legit.
    The more I ride this Druid, the more I like it. And the recently released V2 looks like they've refined it even further. Grizzly has it for demo and Vital just put out a video on it detailing the descending characteristics, which I found relatable to my experience on the Druid.

    Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

  16. #10641
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    Nov 2011
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    I just melt candles and bees wax. One of the reasons I like wax is because it's quiet.

    I tried an Amazon ultrasonic washer and it did not clean that well. An old dishwasher in the garage is what I use to wash bike parts, car parts, boots, and cruddy alpine gear.

  17. #10642
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cocximus View Post
    I just melt candles and bees wax. One of the reasons I like wax is because it's quiet.

    I tried an Amazon ultrasonic washer and it did not clean that well. An old dishwasher in the garage is what I use to wash bike parts, car parts, boots, and cruddy alpine gear.
    Edit: moved reply to Queso thread.
    Last edited by J. Barron DeJong; 06-02-2023 at 12:43 PM.

  18. #10643
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    Oct 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by teledad View Post
    Swapped the cable, no change. Finally put a new derailleur on and had it shifting perfectly within 5 minutes (tighten cable, set B screw, set limit screws, turn the barrel adjuster a few times, done).

    I’ll take a look at the old derailleur and see if I can get it warrantied (the bike is less than a year old). But if I have to replace the derailleur every 300 miles I’m going back to SRAM.
    Quote Originally Posted by NT View Post
    I've had the exact same experience several times. I'm now on my 4th shimano derailleur in 2 years. Each one I believe took a minor hit and got thrown out of whack. Can't tell from looking at it other than a few minor scratches. Has me considering giving the new sram transmission stuff a try someday.

    My last bike I had for 7 years and never had to replace the derailleur. It was a sram medium cage for a 2x10 setup- I think it not having to extend down so far helped. Both bikes 29ers.
    Just had all this happen with a fairly new XT derailleur, about 8 mo old and less than 500 miles or so. Shifting just went to shit "all of a sudden" and I did all the things: aligned the hangar, countless adjustments, checked thru axle tightness, hangar tightness, etc. etc. etc. I don't recall any significant crashes or bashes to the thing, but when I really had a look at the derailleur itself, I noticed the pulleys were out of alignment and that the cage had been bent and twisted a bit. It may have happened on a recent flight back from MX, in my case. Anycrap, took to the local shop and they confirmed bent/twisted and got it fixed about 90% back to good by gently persuading it with a pair of vice grips. In the end I decided to just chuck a new XT on there and it immediately shifted at 100%, so now I have a mostly good backup if this one detonates. One riding buddy of mine has said mine is the third Shimano derailleur of his friends that he's seen or heard of get a bit bent or twisted. Anecdotal, for sure.

    teledad, did you ever have a look at that old one? Was it bent or anything?

    NT, like you I've had SRAM stuff for probably 10 years prior to this new bike and never had an issue like this.
    The older I get, the faster I was.






    Punch it, Chewie.

    Damn he seems cool.

  19. #10644
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    Quote Originally Posted by Full Trucker View Post
    Just had all this happen with a fairly new XT derailleur, about 8 mo old and less than 500 miles or so. Shifting just went to shit "all of a sudden" and I did all the things: aligned the hangar, countless adjustments, checked thru axle tightness, hangar tightness, etc. etc. etc. I don't recall any significant crashes or bashes to the thing, but when I really had a look at the derailleur itself, I noticed the pulleys were out of alignment and that the cage had been bent and twisted a bit. It may have happened on a recent flight back from MX, in my case. Anycrap, took to the local shop and they confirmed bent/twisted and got it fixed about 90% back to good by gently persuading it with a pair of vice grips. In the end I decided to just chuck a new XT on there and it immediately shifted at 100%, so now I have a mostly good backup if this one detonates. One riding buddy of mine has said mine is the third Shimano derailleur of his friends that he's seen or heard of get a bit bent or twisted. Anecdotal, for sure.

    teledad, did you ever have a look at that old one? Was it bent or anything?

    NT, like you I've had SRAM stuff for probably 10 years prior to this new bike and never had an issue like this.
    Had the same experience, more or less. Second xt derailleur died pretty quick too.

    I've heard XTR's hold up better. But I just went back to sram. The shimano chains and cassettes shift nice, but the xt derailleurs are worthless. Sram derailleur / shifter with shimano chain / cassette seems like the best option.

  20. #10645
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Had the same experience, more or less. Second xt derailleur died pretty quick too.

    I've heard XTR's hold up better. But I just went back to sram. The shimano chains and cassettes shift nice, but the xt derailleurs are worthless. Sram derailleur / shifter with shimano chain / cassette seems like the best option.
    I mangled the XTR that came on my bike pretty badly within months of having it. That said, it was definitely more than a tap.

    Replacement cages are available (or at least they have part numbers). But a replacement XTR cage is about the the same price as an XT derailleur, so I just went with that. It’s been holding up fine in the two years since.

  21. #10646
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    Tried to help a buddy with an XTR der, busted out the Abbey alignment tool and the hanger was dead straight. Cage, not so much...

  22. #10647
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    Dec 2004
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    I've beat the hell out of my xtr der. Good as day one, hell I've dropped/crashed hard on drive side and don't think twice about laying bike down on the drive side.

  23. #10648
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    May 2008
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    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
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    Like everyone else above my experience has been: When mint the XT shifts like a dream, but it seems delicate and I have gone through several rear mechs. Eagle honestly never shifted that nice IMO, but they are built tougher I think and can take more hits.

  24. #10649
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gnar_Shralp406 View Post
    The more I ride this Druid, the more I like it. And the recently released V2 looks like they've refined it even further. Grizzly has it for demo and Vital just put out a video on it detailing the descending characteristics, which I found relatable to my experience on the Druid.

    Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
    Are you running 150 or 160mm up front?

    Color me intrigued so far. I think this could be a super fun Bridgers/Gallatins/Helena/Moab/St. George/mellower enduro race bike to ride most of the time and keep the Gnarvana for bike park/super gnar.


  25. #10650
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    Yep. A slight tap and the cage will never be the same.

    I’ve been watching for the replacements for about a year without success. Always out of stock. I have 3 broken derailleurs in my parts bin waiting for new cages.

    X01 has been solid on my other bike on the same terrain for 4 years without needing anything.

    XTR is defiantly stronger but $$$.

    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Like everyone else above my experience has been: When mint the XT shifts like a dream, but it seems delicate and I have gone through several rear mechs. Eagle honestly never shifted that nice IMO, but they are built tougher I think and can take more hits.

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