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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #5651
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    Quote Originally Posted by climberevan View Post
    If you're up for a solid techy loop you can't do much better than up Van Sickle to the TRT, then to Star lake and down Cold Creek. It's also good the other direction.

    If you're not up for something quite so long you can just go up Cold Creek to Star and back.

    Be sure to call out any jackasses you see on mopeds, as all of those trails are non motorized.
    I was able to sneak out and pedal to Powerline > Cold Creek from the house on Sunday AM. Did an out and back. Saw a couple olds on Mopeds who clearly have never actually ridden real bikes before.

    All in all a super fun quick trail to ride on the SB 115.

  2. #5652
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    Anyone tried MTX brake pads? Guys at the local shop were raving about them. Made (designed I guess) by a local guy here in SLC who came from a moto background. I grabbed a pair and will try them out when my current shimano metal pads wear out.

    https://mtxbraking.com/

  3. #5653
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    there is a brake pad compro you could probably find with some goggling
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  4. #5654
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    Probably but nothing beats the first hand info from the sexperts on here

  5. #5655
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfinn View Post
    Anyone tried MTX brake pads? Guys at the local shop were raving about them. Made (designed I guess) by a local guy here in SLC who came from a moto background. I grabbed a pair and will try them out when my current shimano metal pads wear out.
    https://mtxbraking.com/
    A buddy of mine knows the dude who started MTX and her swears by their pads. I bought into the hype and am now running reds front and back (he's 20 lbs lighter than me but rides a lot faster and is on the yellow ebike/Clydesdale version which has an even stronger bite).

    The initial bite on the reds is lighter than what I'm used to on Shimano 4 pots + resin pads. It softened that Shimano on/off feeling and I now have some modulation which I'm really liking when riding steep stuff. In terms of raw power the reds feel a tiny bit stronger than the resins, especially when they get warmed up. I haven't had issues with fading on longer DHs, if anything the grab seems to increase (caveat: I've never had issues with fading, even resin pads on 180 rotors). Noise-wise I've had random and very rare squealing in the dry, more consistent when wet but that's not exactly uncommon. Durability is TBD but I've heard great things. No more rattling sounds from the fins is a significant benefit.

    When I picked up the pads from the owner he told me they didn't need to be bedded in. I made him swear he was serious then went straight to Silver Fork to see if he was right. He was mostly right, they do need to get to temperature a bit. The first pull on the lever dropping into the off-camber section at the end of Lazy Prince had me concerned I was going to die a brakeless death
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  6. #5656
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Best place to unload a road bike? Other than local classifieds and FB? There was a mention upthread of the Pros Closet, gotta look into it. I've sold tons of MTB stuff, included a full bike, on Pinkbike, what's the roadie equivalent?[/URL].
    The Pro's Closet just buys bikes for cheap and flips them on ebay, you can do the same if you can upload some pictures and pack the bike for shipping. But if you want it gone right away it might be worth it to sell it to to TPC.

    The Paceline is pretty active for roadie stuff, you could try there: https://forums.thepaceline.net/forumdisplay.php?f=6

  7. #5657
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfinn View Post
    Anyone tried MTX brake pads? Guys at the local shop were raving about them. Made (designed I guess) by a local guy here in SLC who came from a moto background. I grabbed a pair and will try them out when my current shimano metal pads wear out.

    https://mtxbraking.com/
    I'm using their Gold pads on my Code RSCs. Big improvement on all fronts from the stock pads. 10/10, will buy again.

  8. #5658
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    I broke a Shimano hg-x11 chain a second time in one week. Coincidence?

    Wear was bellow 0.25 on the park tool indicator.

    Bike had a pf30 gossamer, I switched to an ultegra crank. Is the chain line different between the two?

    Chain was waxed. I put it though 5-6 ultrasonic cycles. Could that have damaged it?

    I am a beast but I only weight 67kg. I have a chain on order since I broke it the first time, but should I look at anything else?

  9. #5659
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    Quote Originally Posted by muted reborn View Post
    I'm no expert so I'll ask: how can a ridiculously fast pro rider, XC or otherwise, run a PSI lower than 20 and not destroy their rims, flat, or roll their tires on fast corners, even if they weigh something like One Twinkie Five?

    It can't be simply finesse, we all get exhausted and/or make mistakes. Only time I got away with under 20 was with Maxxis DD's and it wasn't on purpose. Some serious 'bonggggsss' on my rear rim woke me up to my flacid PSI. Edit: with a Cane Creek coil rear shock.
    Wide rims - that’s how

  10. #5660
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cocximus View Post
    I broke a Shimano hg-x11 chain a second time in one week. Coincidence?

    Wear was bellow 0.25 on the park tool indicator.

    Bike had a pf30 gossamer, I switched to an ultegra crank. Is the chain line different between the two?

    Chain was waxed. I put it though 5-6 ultrasonic cycles. Could that have damaged it?

    I am a beast but I only weight 67kg. I have a chain on order since I broke it the first time, but should I look at anything else?
    Even if chainline was different, I can't imagine that playing a huge part unless you're doing some serious sprinting fully cross-chained.

    Pics of break? How did it break? During a shift? standing up?

    Also: quicklink or pin? did it by chance break at the pin you installed it at?

  11. #5661
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Are Shimano hydraulic brake hoses and banjo bolts the same size on all their brakes? Or at least on Zee and SLX M7000?

    I think I'm going to move some Zee brakes onto a bike that currently has the SLX and has internal brake hose routing for the rear - - thinking it might be easiest if I leave the hose in place and detach the caliper and brake lever assembly, then bleed afterwards.

    The hose fittings look identical at both ends.
    Pretty sure all shimano hydro hoses are the same OD but not necessarily the same ID (not sure of the implications)

  12. #5662
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    I do a fair bit of cross chained riding. I seldomly use my smaller chainring. First time I broke it standing up crossing a street with a car coming. Ok maybe that's on me. Second time I was in the saddle, climbing, not during a shift. Pin just popped out.

    I have SRAM master links. Both times it broke at some random pin not the master link.

  13. #5663
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTskibum View Post
    Do have a question though - Any opinions on mixing 12 speed quick links between brands. I've done it for years on 11/10/9, but read a few things about it not being as cross compatible as it used to.

    Smashed my Shimano chain/chainring into a rock, seems one link took the brunt of it, but I don't have any 12s Shimano quicklinks (nor are any available I could find) so thinking I could use a SRAM 12s link. Did order some knock offs from amazon that'll be here soon, but would be good to use SRAM that I trust more if it'll work. Most google searches turn up 11s info.

    Edit - ordered a Gx 12 speed chain, in the interim giving sram QL in Shimano chain a go. Seems to be fine in the stand. We’ll see
    My experience is limited, and involved some worn parts, but I think that'll work. Non-Shimano 12 speed chainrings (and chains?) are, according to Wolftooth, wider than Shimano. So, SRAM chain on Shimano should be fine, you just might not get the most out of their fancy shifting. I had some issues going the other way, running a Shimano chain on a non-Shimano chainring. Post up your results, regardless.

    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  14. #5664
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    Nov 2006
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    One of the pistons in my 4 piston XT 8120 brakes is stuck. I can push the other three in easily. Tried with the system open at the lever port to no avail. Pumping the lever, all 4 pistons will move in and retract back normally. I just can't push that one piston in any further. Any ideas?

    Do I need to push the piston all the way out and clean it? Never done that and nervous of making it worse/breaking it. Bike is rideable now but with horrendous brake rub (piston doesn't retract enough to create room regardless of how caliper is adjusted). Got a 2 day ride with the wife for our anniversary this weekend and need to not fuck that up. Guess I could steal the front brake off my old bike in a pinch but would rather not. Brake is new this spring, maybe 50 rides or so, a few that were quite wet a muddy.

  15. #5665
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  16. #5666
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cocximus View Post
    I broke a Shimano hg-x11 chain a second time in one week. Coincidence?

    Wear was bellow 0.25 on the park tool indicator.

    Bike had a pf30 gossamer, I switched to an ultegra crank. Is the chain line different between the two?

    Chain was waxed. I put it though 5-6 ultrasonic cycles. Could that have damaged it?

    I am a beast but I only weight 67kg. I have a chain on order since I broke it the first time, but should I look at anything else?
    What was in the ultrasonic when you cleaned it?

  17. #5667
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Running too short of a chain cause them to snap randomly/often?
    Running too short, going "sur la plaque" (big ring) then biggest cog on the back would definitely be an issue. I would expect though you'd fuck the rear derailleur before breaking a chain though. It would be VERY hard to shift into gear.

  18. #5668
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    Wouldn't it would be most likely to bend the der hanger inwards ?

    A buddy had a Rocky hardtail about 20 yars ago that would bend without hitting anything,

    it would seem the rear dropouts didnt have enough meat and the der material was a bit wimpy

    I can't see an ultra sonic cleaner doing anything to a chain
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  19. #5669
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cocximus View Post
    I have SRAM master links. Both times it broke at some random pin not the master link.
    My guess would be some ham handed shifting at some point. A rough shift can tweak the chain just slightly and begin to unseat the pin from the plate. It'll continue to worsen over time with more (regular) shifting and torque, and eventually fail.

    Pretty much every modern chain I've seen fail was due to that or an impact.

  20. #5670
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    Quote Originally Posted by NT View Post
    One of the pistons in my 4 piston XT 8120 brakes is stuck. I can push the other three in easily. Tried with the system open at the lever port to no avail. Pumping the lever, all 4 pistons will move in and retract back normally. I just can't push that one piston in any further. Any ideas?

    Do I need to push the piston all the way out and clean it? Never done that and nervous of making it worse/breaking it. Bike is rideable now but with horrendous brake rub (piston doesn't retract enough to create room regardless of how caliper is adjusted). Got a 2 day ride with the wife for our anniversary this weekend and need to not fuck that up. Guess I could steal the front brake off my old bike in a pinch but would rather not. Brake is new this spring, maybe 50 rides or so, a few that were quite wet a muddy.
    Extend the pistons slightly and floss the stuck piston with a skinny shoestring soaked in isopropyl to remove the nasty brake “tartar”?

    Pushing all the way out will create more issues than it solves I think.
    That Don't Make No Sense

  21. #5671
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    Option #2. Bin the Shimano brakes and get Maguras. Sram pistons suck also but not as badly as Shimano.

  22. #5672
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    My guess would be some ham handed shifting at some point. A rough shift can tweak the chain just slightly and begin to unseat the pin from the plate. It'll continue to worsen over time with more (regular) shifting and torque, and eventually fail.

    Pretty much every modern chain I've seen fail was due to that or an impact.
    yabut I can shift up down sideways on my shimano 11spd mtn bike with zero regard to anything AND it always makes the shift, the latest 12 spd is sposed to be even better and the same chain gets used for road or mtb ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  23. #5673
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    Quote Originally Posted by XtrPickels View Post
    What was in the ultrasonic when you cleaned it?
    Utica Club, probably.
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  24. #5674
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    I'm using their Gold pads on my Code RSCs. Big improvement on all fronts from the stock pads. 10/10, will buy again.
    Thanks Andeh and Boissal, looking forward to trying them and sounds like the extra $10 over normal shimano pads is probably worth it.

  25. #5675
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    Nov 2011
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    Ultrasonic cleaner had some diluted simple green.

    Chain was definately on the long side. This is on my road bike, so no suspension travel.

    I used KMC X10.93 for years commuting with little maintenance. Any reason not to get the x11.93? Are the Shimano higher end chains more durable?

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