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Thread: Ask the experts
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06-27-2020, 11:16 AM #1126
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06-27-2020, 12:14 PM #1127Registered User
- Join Date
- May 2010
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- San Francisco
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- 124
Long shot: anybody holding or know a source for Scott touchup paint in Dark Bronze Gloss (for 2019 Scale 910)? None available straight from Scott: I already tried.
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06-27-2020, 12:30 PM #1128
Let the air out of your tire, remove the valve core, stick a small zip tie in the vale stem, just like a dip stick, to see how much tubeless sealant you have left in your tire.
Add sealant through the valve stem, don't break the tire bead if you don't have to. After airing up the wheel shake the sealant everywhere, turn it on its side and make sure it gets a good coating where those sidewalls are weeping. Some shops are lazy and just put the sealant in the tires without shaking and rotating the tires horizontally to get a good coating on all the side walls.
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06-27-2020, 04:00 PM #1129Registered User
- Join Date
- Nov 2012
- Location
- Eastern WA
- Posts
- 535
Ask the experts
So here’s the update. Turned out to be two separate issues. There was air in the system which resolved with a quick bleed. Also, poorly connected hose from the shop that built it. It’s working great now, Thanks! I have a feeling I’ll be posting a lot of stupid questions in this thread...
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06-27-2020, 04:37 PM #1130
on a 135mm QR wheel, is there a limit to what size cassette I can use should I decide foolishly to upgrade my drivetrain? (it's currently a 1x8 microshift) also, on an i25 rim, should I anticipate problems with say a 2.3" maxxis tire, should I foolishly decide to upgrade those as well?
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06-27-2020, 05:01 PM #1131
The limitation on the drivetrain is going to be the freehub body. Most Sram 11 and 12 speed, and all Shimano 12 speed won't fit. I think Sram makes a cheaper 11-50t 12 speed cassette that uses a classic hyperglide freehub if you really want to go that route.
25mm internal rim is pretty ideal size for a 2.3 Maxxis.
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06-27-2020, 05:05 PM #1132
Your freehub will accept all cassettes: 7,8,9,10 and Shimano 11, or Sram 11 GX Cassettes.
The i25 stands for 25mm internal width. So a 2.3-2.4 is perfect width.
This explains it pretty well for you. https://www.maxxis.com/wide-trail-wt-design
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06-27-2020, 05:10 PM #1133
alright sweet, thanks. I'm gonna foolishly dump some more money into my cheap ass bike then
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06-27-2020, 05:17 PM #1134
I still think you'd be better off buying a better bike, but do you.
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06-27-2020, 05:25 PM #1135
lol oh I don't doubt that at all, I'll likely end up paying 2x what I should for a very mediocre bike with dead-end upgrade options, but sunk cost fallacy and all that. plus it's fun to tinker.
e: my local bike shop has this https://www.crankysutah.com/product/...9-346079-1.htm and I really wish I bought it instead... maybe I will see what they'll give me in trade in lolLast edited by mall walker; 06-27-2020 at 05:53 PM.
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06-27-2020, 06:05 PM #1136Do I detect a lot of anger flowing around this place? Kind of like a pubescent volatility, some angst, a lot of I'm-sixteen-and-angry-at-my-father syndrome?
fuck that noise.
gmen.
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06-27-2020, 06:16 PM #1137
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06-27-2020, 06:21 PM #1138
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06-28-2020, 12:57 PM #1139
Hi folks, I recently picked up a used Kona Raijin titanium frame (woohoo!). When I was inspecting it I found what appeared to me to be a crack at the very bottom of the drive side seat stay.
When I asked the seller about it he said that his shop had pointed it out to him too and that it is not a crack but a ridge left from the machining process. Apparently what I’m looking at is a solid “plug” that slips into the seat stay tube and is welded on to connect the seat stay with the dropout.
Can anyone with frame building knowledge confirm this? Picture below:
Cheers,
Coach
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06-28-2020, 01:35 PM #1140
Ask the experts
I believe your seller is correct.
Also to the earlier poster about the leaking air from tubeless; don’t forget to shake the sealant really good and actually turn it upside down to let all the particles end up in the neck of the bottle. Mo particles, mo better.Well maybe I'm the faggot America
I'm not a part of a redneck agenda
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06-28-2020, 01:38 PM #1141
What Toast said and also: sealant dries up over time also, so more needs to be added periodically. Good to clean out the boogers now and then too. Kinda depends how much you ride and how fast you burn up tires. Maxxis "TR" line weeps less out of the box, I get those. Also, it's still normal to lose a little air between rides. Still worth it.
If you're lucky you can find nail polish in that color. Look in the big pharmacy chains like walgreens or Rite Aid for the best selection. If not you can get the pantone code from Scott and bring it to an auto body shop where they can mix some for you. This route would likely be expensive.There's nothing better than sliding down snow, and flying through the air
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06-28-2020, 01:44 PM #1142
Anyone know how to edit a strava activity to remove elevation gain? I like to run strava during bike park days to get data on downhill segments on stuff I race enduro on, but can't remember to stop and start the recording 10 times a day.
I had a strava activity get "flagged" once because it detected that I got a shuttle ride and it allowed me to delete the uphill part where I was in a van. (I was pedaling up to Larson in Oakridge and gladly hopped in a van about halfway up).
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06-28-2020, 02:14 PM #1143
The way I've done it before was to split the activity into a separate activity for each lap and then snip the lift rides off. PIA but I've been in the same boat and done it plenty.
There's nothing better than sliding down snow, and flying through the air
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06-28-2020, 02:53 PM #1144
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06-28-2020, 02:59 PM #1145
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06-28-2020, 04:09 PM #1146
Any experience with hope bb's for 30mm cinch? I replaced the rf bb on a threaded bb with a hope bb and it lasted forever and was way smoother than the rf. Potential new ride is a pf bb shell.Im wondering if i cram in a pf hope bb for my sixc's if the increased quality of the hope bb bearings will survive in a pf/cinch 30mm combo
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06-29-2020, 10:42 AM #1147
Hey Shimano experts: if upgrading a 1x10 drivetrain and keeping the HG freehub wheels, would you pick:
A) SLX 1x11, with 11-46 cassette -- all SLX parts in the M7000 series
B) Deore 1x11, with 11-51 cassette -- all Deore parts in the M5100 series
A) SLX: advantages (?) -- supposedly higher-end than Deore, probably lighter weight. In reality... ?
B) Deore: advantages -- less expensive than SLX, cassette goes to 51, cassette tooth jumps are better spaced than SLX. (Deore: 11-13-15-18-21-24-28-33-39-45-51. SLX: 11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28-32-37-46.
Or-- can you mix-and-match, and use 11-speed SLX shifter and rear derailleur with the 11-51 Deore cassette? Goat link needed?
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06-29-2020, 01:38 PM #1148Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
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- northern BC
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Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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06-29-2020, 03:28 PM #1149
Assuming you stick with that freehub, and we don’t thread drift into 12sp options, I’d say for sure go with that Deore cassette. That said, you can mix-match other Shimano 11sp shifters & derailleurs. RD needs to be long cage. Nice shifter more valuable than nice derailleur.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR ForumsHowever many are in a shit ton.
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06-29-2020, 03:44 PM #1150www.dpsskis.com
www.point6.com
formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
Fukt: a very small amount of snow.
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