Ask the experts

[jamal]

My current cycling glove lineup

PI summit wrx glove - a little heavier than a light summer glove but not insulated. neoshell on back so kind of water resistant
PI amfib lite - light insulation and softshell back, good for cooler but not cold
100% hydromatic brisker - pretty warm, pretty water resistant. ok for shorter rides in low 30s. great for cold but not too cold and maybe a little wet
POC thermal glove - pretty nice, pretty warm, but i don't like the loose open cuffs. Cold air gets up them. Also not very durable, and expensive. Looking for something to replace these
45nrth sturmfist 4 - real warm, but noticable bulk and loss of dexterity. got the 4 finger version which is like a half lobster and works for drops or flat bars and they're on sale right now. Keeps my hands comfortable even when it's cold enough where i should be doing something else. Probably the warmest "cycling" gloves you'll find before you want to just get bar mitts. has a gauntlet and easy to use elastic cinch system. I have long arms so the extra length is nice. Those pocs tend to leave my wrists exposed.

[Shredhead]

I ride everyday with my dogs, before and after I go skiing. I just wear my ski glove's dejour. As I've gotten older, I've gravitated to mittens more and more, often with hand warmers.
I wear my cycling gear, under my ski clothes.

[g_man80]

Anyone regret going to a longer dropper? I have room for a 240mm on my current bike. In the past I’ve been fine with a 210mm, but my current bike has a reasonably steep seat tube and longer reach, and I’ve had some minor saddle interference a few times on very steep tech. Therefore, I’m considering the 240mm.

I’m assuming the main considerations are increased standup effort at full drop and weight penalty (70g). FWIW, height 6’, inseam 34”.

[skaredshtles]

Anyone regret going to a longer dropper? I have room for a 240mm on my current bike. In the past I’ve been fine with a 210mm, but my current bike has a reasonably steep seat tube and longer reach, and I’ve had some minor saddle interference a few times on very steep tech. Therefore, I’m considering the 240mm.

I’m assuming the main considerations are increased standup effort at full drop and weight penalty (70g). FWIW, height 6’, inseam 34”.

I went from a 150mm to 200mm dropper and have not regretted it at all. I have found that I won't *always* drop it all the way down, but it's also nice having that option.

6'1" height, 34" inseam here.

[toast2266]

Unless you're trying to save weight, go with the longest drop you can fit. Agreed with ^^^ that I'll sometimes not drop it all the way. But for proper descents, it's nice to have it as low as possible.

[XXX-er]

if you are a santa cruz fan boi they have dropper post compatability on their site

https://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en...-compatibility

[beaterdit]

Anyone regret going to a longer dropper? I have room for a 240mm on my current bike. In the past I’ve been fine with a 210mm, but my current bike has a reasonably steep seat tube and longer reach, and I’ve had some minor saddle interference a few times on very steep tech. Therefore, I’m considering the 240mm.

I’m assuming the main considerations are increased standup effort at full drop and weight penalty (70g). FWIW, height 6’, inseam 34”.

The more the merrier when it comes to drop IMO. 5'7" 33" inseam (IK I'm a freak), went from 170 to 210 and it's awesome. Wouldn't ever want less now. Caveat, make sure it'll clear your back tire at full drop and full compression. I've got <10mm clearance so, about perfect.

[bagtagley]

x4. 240 is tits.

[frorider]

I have long legs, I find 240 is too low when I’m using inner knee pressure on it. 210 is perfect IME.

I’m tall enough that even a 240 has exposed area above seat tube :shrug:

[Meconium]

Test

[snoboy]

Every fix for my slipping seatpost in a carbon Sentinel seemed to be incrementally better, but it was still slipping a little bit on every ride. Finally acquired a tube of the Park paste - don't want to jinx it, but it seems to be solid now.

There is a real difference in feel between the two. The finish Line feels like grease with grit in it, but the Park stuff is like a gel (and it's blue - of course). It seems intuitive that you don't want to use grease when you are trying to stop something slipping.

Thanks for the idea, J. Barron DeJong.

I was getting some seatpost creaking with my new road bike which I’d used Finish Line carbon paste to assemble.

Ended up getting some Park Tools Supergrip after reading some.

It does seem to be a bit more tenacious than the Finish Line paste, so I’d say it’s worth a shot if nothing else has worked.

Attachment 499413

[XXX-er]

I had tried literlay everything until carbon paste^^ fixed squeaky seat post

[beaterdit]

I use the Park paste with good results. No squeaking, no binding, no slipping. It really is different than any other product I've seen.

[XXX-er]

Component mfgers include little blister packs of assembly paste with carbon parts so the shop has a bunch of unused blister pack so I would get them from the shop guys usually FSA, I can't say i noticed a difference between Park and FSA but now I'm going to check

[jm2e]

if you are a santa cruz fan boi they have dropper post compatability on their site

https://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en...-compatibility

Better yet, with any bike you can use the Knolly Dropper Calculator
https://knollybikes.com/pages/droppe...hBhRBjg.R4AXar

[XXX-er]

looks good !

[jackstraw]

Screwing around waiting I was ripping up some piles of dirt a loader had pushed and I came down a slammed my rotor, but didn't know. Start riding and hear a noise, so I'm looking down and continue to ride trying to see whats happening and I finally stop after idk 50 yards or less and this is what happened.

I'm gonna keep riding it. Filed down the rotor properly after the trailside rock smash/file and it's braking fine. I'll just replace everything at once when it's time.

[El Chupacabra]

Any issues with using a seatpost shim with a dropper post? I have a 30.9 dropper post, the correct problem solvers shim, and a frame that requires a 31.6 seatpost.

[XtrPickels]

Any issues with using a seatpost shim with a dropper post? I have a 30.9 dropper post, the correct problem solvers shim, and a frame that requires a 31.6 seatpost.

Depending on the answers, I'll be doing this as well.

[LeeLau]

Any issues with using a seatpost shim with a dropper post? I have a 30.9 dropper post, the correct problem solvers shim, and a frame that requires a 31.6 seatpost.

None at all. I and many others will often buy a 30.9 just to be able to migrate them to other bikes. There's shims for 34.9 also

[El Chupacabra]

Thanks - I have a new 30.9 post I bought for a project that didn't happen, and a bike with a 31.6 Reverb that is finally crapping out, so was thinking about using that post with a shim.

[jm2e]

34.9 standard pretty much proved that shims work seamlessly.
Simultaneously, shims proved that the 34.9 seatpost standard isn’t necessary.



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[toast2266]

Shims work, but also increase your chances of having to deal with a slipping and/or creaking seatpost.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

[ghosthop]

Do XTR QR skewers clear lawyer tabs without having to adjust the threaded end? Differences between vintages other than cosmetics? I would most likely be looking at 900-950 unless a set of 9000 appears for a good price.

[Wes Mantooth]

How lazy of a bleed can I get away with when simply transferring a rear brake from one bike to another? Swapping some Codes out for Dominions and both brakes are very recently bled with clean fluid, but I'll obviously be introducing air into the system when cutting the hoses. I have always done a full bleed in the past but wondering if I can avoid the hassle and just find a quick way to get the air out without exchanging all the fluid