Ask the experts

[Backward_Banana]

I've got like 3 different BikeYoke dropper levers sitting in my parts box I'd be happy to send. Let me double check tonight.

Awesome, thanks! I figured someone here would be sitting on a pile. If you strike out I'll hit up jM, but I don't think I need 6, haha.

[Thaleia]

How do you deal with derailleur adjustments that work fine on the stand but acts up when being ridden?

I have a Shimao Claris (I know, I know..) 2 x 8 on my cheapish road bike. Up front it doesn't want to shift off of the big ring. Can tune it on the stand but when riding the problem comes back.

Any advice? (beyond a better groupset lol)

[406]

^^^
edit: not a mtb.

I spent a bunch of time trying to adjust mine, finally gave up and had it in the shop and they pointed out I had my magic link upside down...so not sure I know what I'm doing, ha.

[Robik]

^^^are you doing adjustments with shock compressed to sag?

Although...I spent a bunch of time trying to adjust mine, finally gave up and had it in the shop and they pointed out I had my magic link upside down...so not sure I know what I'm doing, ha.

He's on 2x8 road bike. If it sags then he's got bigger problem than shifting

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[Thaleia]

He's on 2x8 road bike. If it sags then he's got bigger problem than shifting

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Edit ignore my initial response, I can be a bit slow at the best of times.

[volklpowdermaniac]

i've got some slight play in my cranks, subtle but there, feel it in the pedals, can repeat it by holding all the other systems fixed and just sort of moving the cranks

XT 8100, ck BB thread fit 24, stumpy bsa shell

i checked the preload and the fastening bolts on crank itself and everything is ship shape there, not the pedals either , isolated those as well and they seem to be fine...
is it almost certainly play in the BB? or perhaps something intrinsic within the cranks (they're probably 200 rides old?)

[mcski]

Play like they wobble? Shift side to side?

[mcski]

I’ve got this weird cathunk when I’m climbing in the rear wheel. I can’t tell if it’s the cassette slipping or a hub issue?

[volklpowdermaniac]

Play like they wobble? Shift side to side?

yes lol? i would say more like wobble than side to side but it's def there a couple mm, feel it in the pedals a lot of the time when climbing

[volklpowdermaniac]

I’ve got this weird cathunk when I’m climbing in the rear wheel. I can’t tell if it’s the cassette slipping or a hub issue?

b tension?

[J. Barron DeJong]

How do you deal with derailleur adjustments that work fine on the stand but acts up when being ridden?

I have a Shimao Claris (I know, I know..) 2 x 8 on my cheapish road bike. Up front it doesn't want to shift off of the big ring. Can tune it on the stand but when riding the problem comes back.

Any advice? (beyond a better groupset lol)

First would be to confirm the derailleur is installed correctly - should clear the big ring by 3mm, and the cage should be parallel with the chainrings (or trailing end of the cage a touch inboard).

If that’s good, next would be to try backing out the low limit screw to allow the derailleur to move further inboard when shifting to the small ring. Also check to make sure that the cable goes slack when in the small ring - cable tension would keep the derailleur from moving fully inboard.

Also, is the cable lubed and moving freely?

[Thaleia]

I’ve got this weird cathunk when I’m climbing in the rear wheel. I can’t tell if it’s the cassette slipping or a hub issue?

I had something similar and it turned out the smallest cog on the cassette with threads had come loose.

[Thaleia]

Thanks JBDJ - will dig back into this tonight or tomorrow.

[Thaleia]

In the meantime, my nephew got a flat riding to school. Wheel is 27.5 x 2. Had an old 26 x ~2.10 on hand so used that to get him rolling.

He lives on his bike which is awesome, but another flat at certain places he goes to is a major pita for him. (the last flat was a 4km hike a bike to home)

Should I get a proper size or will this continue to trustworthy? Only asking because the 26 inch tube fit (unexpectedly) really well.

[Tailwind]

I’ve been primarily a mountain biker for a few years. Spending a a lot more time on pavement this year as I’ve been working through an injury (torn Achilles I don’t want to crash on). I’ve been realizing that from a training perspective i should likely spend a few days a week riding gravel or pavement to have more zone 2 in my training than I normally get on the mountain bike.

Current bike is a Canyon Grizl with 700x47 tires and Dt Swiss 1800 series aluminum wheels… it leaves a bit to be desired when hammering pavement climbs. It’s also a 1x system with a Shimano 11-40 cassette which isn’t great for road riding. Nice bike otherwise. I’m curious about trying some long pavement routes (150+ miles in the Rockies). The distance or time on the bike doesn’t bother me but I’ve done a few centuries this year on the Grizl and it doesn’t feel fast as you’re riding it.

Question is:
Do I buy a fancy set of wheels for the current bike and throw some light 28-32c tires on there? Something like a pair of reserve wheels used in the 34mm depth. I’d probably buy a nicer gravel bike in a year or two and keep the nice wheels.

Or do I buy a pretty nice used road bike for like $3500-$4000? Maybe a Cervelo Soloist or similar bike. I’d keep the gravel bike in this instance.

By default I’d like to still spend most of my time on my mountain bikes which makes me hesitant to throw down for the road bike but I’m worried the nice wheels are a half step that won’t accomplish what I want. Spending money on the road bike might push the next mountain bike upgrade out a while.

[Skistack]

I’m pretty happy with a road wheelset for my Salsa Warbird. But the problem with getting a nice road wheelset is you’ll quickly realize how crappy your gravel wheelset is. So might as well budget for 2 wheelsets.


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[XtrPickels]

In the meantime, my nephew got a flat riding to school. Wheel is 27.5 x 2. Had an old 26 x ~2.10 on hand so used that to get him rolling.

He lives on his bike which is awesome, but another flat at certain places he goes to is a major pita for him. (the last flat was a 4km hike a bike to home)

Should I get a proper size or will this continue to trustworthy? Only asking because the 26 inch tube fit (unexpectedly) really well.

Shouldn't be an issue.

[EWG]

I’ve been primarily a mountain biker for a few years. Spending a a lot more time on pavement this year as I’ve been working through an injury (torn Achilles I don’t want to crash on). I’ve been realizing that from a training perspective i should likely spend a few days a week riding gravel or pavement to have more zone 2 in my training than I normally get on the mountain bike.

Current bike is a Canyon Grizl with 700x47 tires and Dt Swiss 1800 series aluminum wheels… it leaves a bit to be desired when hammering pavement climbs. It’s also a 1x system with a Shimano 11-40 cassette which isn’t great for road riding. Nice bike otherwise. I’m curious about trying some long pavement routes (150+ miles in the Rockies). The distance or time on the bike doesn’t bother me but I’ve done a few centuries this year on the Grizl and it doesn’t feel fast as you’re riding it.

Question is:
Do I buy a fancy set of wheels for the current bike and throw some light 28-32c tires on there? Something like a pair of reserve wheels used in the 34mm depth. I’d probably buy a nicer gravel bike in a year or two and keep the nice wheels.

Or do I buy a pretty nice used road bike for like $3500-$4000? Maybe a Cervelo Soloist or similar bike. I’d keep the gravel bike in this instance.

By default I’d like to still spend most of my time on my mountain bikes which makes me hesitant to throw down for the road bike but I’m worried the nice wheels are a half step that won’t accomplish what I want. Spending money on the road bike might push the next mountain bike upgrade out a while.

Depending on the hubs, it's like not a super easy switch back and forth between two wheelsets - you'll likely need a quick brake adjustment so the rotors don't rub. But as long as you aren't switching them out on the daily it's probably fine. Or just do as skistack suggests adn buy two super nice wheelsets with the same hubs. Ha.

[EWG]

Ok, I scratched the Kashima on my Fox Factory 36. Believe it or not, that has literally never happened to a single bike I maintain before in . Shocking, but here I am. Very small scratch - I can just barely catch a nail on it. It's low on the stanchion so it goes into the legs constantly.

There seems to be two schools of thought on this: buff it out so you can't feel it or your shock with blow up (get dirtier inside and/or wear out seals fast), or fuck it, it'll be fine.

What do we all think?

[Andeh]

There's a repair kit out there from some French company, relatively easy to use. Basically it has you use the included fine file to get rid of any bur, then fill the scratch with epoxy, then polish it smooth. The point of the repair is just to minimize damage you do to the seals / dust wipers. I've done it on a couple of dropper posts - even with the black kit you can still see the scratch but can't feel it at all afterwards.

https://www.sendhit.net/products/scratch-cover

[toast2266]

For a scratch that you can barely feel with your fingernail, I'd say fuck it. Leave it as is. It'll *maybe* hasten the demise of your wipers by a little bit, but wipers are neither particularly expensive nor particularly difficult to change.

[skaredshtles]

I'm in the "fuck it and let it ride" camp...

[Thaleia]

Shouldn't be an issue.

Appreciated, thank you.

[Huskier]

[QUOTE=Tailwind;7127276]I’ve been primarily a mountain biker for a few years. Spending a a lot more time on pavement.

Current bike is a Canyon Grizl with 700x47 tires and Dt Swiss 1800 series aluminum wheels… it leaves a bit to be desired when hammering pavement climbs.

Question is:
Do I buy a fancy set of wheels for the current bike and throw some light 28-32c tires on there?
[/QUOTE=Tailwind;7127276]


Why not deeper? If The mission is pavement... I picked up a set of 50mm Chinese Amazon specials for like 4hundy, gained about 1mph average cruising speed over the stock 30mm rim. They ride nice enough for centuries, minimal flex or weight penalty when climbing. Save the stock rims for gravel grinding...

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[plugboots]

N+