Ask the experts

[frorider]

Ya I didn’t mention NSB in this particular thread. Pretty much none of the >$20 hangers use plastic ring. With the burgtec using stronger, harder to machine 7075 yet around $40 (like WM) it seems the best choice.

[Roxtar]

I'm still in the "buy whatever bottom bracket is on sale for ~$50 and replace it when it gets shitty" camp.

Sometimes you'll replace a couple in a year. Sometimes you'll get a couple years out of one. Either way, it's still cheaper than buying a fancy one that may or may not actually last longer. They're not *that* hard to replace, and when they go bad, it's not like they're gonna leave you stranded in the backcountry. They just get annoyingly creaky or the bearings get rough.

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I wouldn't recommend that route for press-fit, though.
The problem with press-fit BBs, especially with carbon frames, isn't the bearings going out. It's that every time you replace one, that frame ID opens up slightly (the material stretches), and you have a slightly weaker press. That's the creaking inherent in PF BBs. It gets worse with each replacement.
I'd really recommend spending the coin for a BB that won't need replacing in this application.

[sfotex]

Following up on my UDH discussion in the Idiot thread—turns out there is a machined 7075 alu option from Burgtec if you’re looking for something strong.

Wheels Mfg uses machined 6061, which I’m sure is far better than the cheesy cast $15 ones out there.

I don't want a pot metal derailleur. hanger, but something needs to give in the system if you give it a good whack and a hanger is cheaper then the frame or the rear derailleur.

[skaredshtles]

<snip>
I'd really recommend spending the coin for a BB that won't need replacing in this application.

Recommendations?

[Roxtar]

Following up on my UDH discussion in the Idiot thread—turns out there is a machined 7075 alu option from Burgtec if you’re looking for something strong.

And they're dead-sexy looking

[Roxtar]

Recommendations?

Enduro & Kogel both make some really nice BBs. The Enduro XD-15 is right up there with CK (price-wise also)
My favorites for creak-free-press-fit is the thread-together models from Enduro (Torqtite) or Wheels Mfg. Both turn press-fit into threaded.

[toast2266]

I wouldn't recommend that route for press-fit, though.
The problem with press-fit BBs, especially with carbon frames, isn't the bearings going out. It's that every time you replace one, that frame ID opens up slightly (the material stretches), and you have a slightly weaker press. That's the creaking inherent in PF BBs. It gets worse with each replacement.
I'd really recommend spending the coin for a BB that won't need replacing in this application.

I think you're replacing bottom brackets a lot more than I am.

Most bikes I'm keeping for 3 or maybe 4 years tops. I'll maybe swap the BB 2-3 times in the time I own the frame. Even in a carbon frame with a pressfit BB, that's totally fine.

[Tailwind]

Is the H limit too close in? Upper guide pulley should be lined up with the outside edge of the 11t, not aligned. If it's too close you'll get the chain trying to ride up on the next cog. Otherwise yeah I'd say your cassette is just worn out, especially if this is a new chain.

Thanks! My neighbor has a mountain bike with an 11-46 Shimano cassette. I borrowed the smallest two cogs off that this morning and it immediately fixed the issue.

The chain is pretty new but has 300 or so miles on it. Working theory is that I noticed it more with the smaller chainrings because suddenly I was using the 11 tooth cog more and maybe I just pushed it past the brink in the last bit of riding.

[Eluder]

Once I stopped cleaning my bike all the bearings amazingly last longer.

[skaredshtles]

Once I stopped cleaning bike all the bearings amazingly last longer.

Shhh... don't let out the secret.

[Eluder]

Recommendations?

It's not cheap, but this is the best PF BB I have ever used. https://www.bbinfinite.com/pages/mountain

Look at the tech info on these. They are serviceable once the module is installed, but bearings last longer because of the design.

I've used the threaded PF options in the past, which are better than the standard options, but I have found these to be best in this application. Green Loctite helps all of them...

[zion zig zag]

Anyone have recommendations for a cheap, but workable, bike stand for the very casual home mechanic? I'd ask in the tool thread but those guys are either pros or have a side hobby that is collecting high end tools.

[J. Barron DeJong]

Anyone have recommendations for a cheap, but workable, bike stand for the very casual home mechanic? I'd ask in the tool thread but those guys are either pros or have a side hobby that is collecting high end tools.

Feedback Sports.

https://www.amazon.com/Feedback-Spor...f870cf6bda4ffd

Still using my original ‘Ultimate’ stand from the 90’s before the company changed names.

[skaredshtles]

Anyone have recommendations for a cheap, but workable, bike stand for the very casual home mechanic? I'd ask in the tool thread but those guys are either pros or have a side hobby that is collecting high end tools.

Plz define "cheap"...

[Ridgehippy]

Anyone have recommendations for a cheap, but workable, bike stand for the very casual home mechanic? I'd ask in the tool thread but those guys are either pros or have a side hobby that is collecting high end tools.

Not sure it meets your cheap criteria, but I have this and it is pretty solid.
Just looked and it's $176 on Amazon right now.

Feedback Sports Sport Mechanic Bicycle Repair Stand

edit: DeJong is a faster on the keyboard than me

[toast2266]

Anyone have recommendations for a cheap, but workable, bike stand for the very casual home mechanic? I'd ask in the tool thread but those guys are either pros or have a side hobby that is collecting high end tools.

Get some 1" webbing and screw 2 lengths of it into the ceiling about 4 feet apart (make sure you hit a joist). Put some pinch buckles on the end so you can make a loop. One strap around the stem / headtube, one around the seat / seatpost. Costs less than $10 and arguably works better than most repair stands.

[MultiVerse]

Costs less than $10 and arguably works better than most repair stands

I worked in a bike shop that used this method. It works. The shop's straps were quick adjust for different size and/or sections of bikes and had padded hooks on the end instead of webbing loops for quickly suspending the bike. Made it super easy work at a comfortable ergonomic height all of the time over the course of shift.

[singlesline]

If you want dirt cheap...just order several of the $40-80 chinese stands off amazon and keep the one that feels the least shitty.

I see pictures in the reviews of people putting crappy generic ebikes on them, so they must at least be functional.

If it isn't total junk, this one actually looks pretty slick and collapses a lot smaller than my Park stand:
https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Heavy-d...s%2C163&sr=8-7

[Roxtar]

If you want dirt cheap...just order several of the $40-80 chinese stands off amazon and keep the one that feels the least shitty.

I see pictures in the reviews of people putting crappy generic ebikes on them, so they must at least be functional.

If it isn't total junk, this one actually looks pretty slick and collapses a lot smaller than my Park stand:
https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Heavy-d...s%2C163&sr=8-7

At that price, it'd be great to just keep in the camper.

[zion zig zag]

Thanks for the recs all! I have to say I'm a little intrigued by the webbing method. It doesn't swing too much?

[MultiVerse]

No, not if the webbing is a bit wider than the bike on either side. Picture the webbing coming down at an angle so that each side is pulling against the other. The weight of the bike keeps it centered against the webbing. The angle can be narrow, just a bit wider than most bikes. The bike will still move, off course, but it's more stable than a stand for most things because most bike work is perpendicular or at a right angle to the bike.

Cranking on a pedal, for example, all the force goes into the straps so you don't have to worry about anything tipping over (still good practice to hold the crank arm in either scenario). It's also nice because you don't have to worry about clamping too hard on carbon or thin aluminum. The shop's straps had two hooks for the front of the bike's handlebar, one on either side of the stem, and one back hook for the seatpost, frame, or wheel.

[toast2266]

The webbing is also nice because it works fine without a seatpost in the frame - just put the webbing around the seatstays. It also means you can work 360° around the bike without a stand in the way.

Biggest downside of the webbing is just that it's not mobile at all. A stand can move around wherever.

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[PNW Lifer]

Question for the experts here. I have an older 29er XC bike (Salsa Mamasita) I want to convert to a 1x setup for local Cyclocross and XC evening races. Would a group set like this https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...4&category=321 be the easiest/cheapest way to make that change? Do I need to swap out my bottom bracket too since it's currently a GXP standard and this appears to be DUB? I have the bottom bracket tool and a decent set of hex keys, are there any other tools I would need to pick up to make this change?

Thanks all

[toastybroski]

Talk me out of buying a Salsa Blackthorn C SLX for $2200 for my wife... I think she might be more of an ebike gal but that deal is fucking crazy.

[North]

Appreciate the input on pressfit BBs. I'm going with another Dub this time. If I get 2.5 seasons out of it like the last one that will probably be plenty. If not I'll look into the nicer options.

Related: Anybody on the Frange (or somewhere between Frange and CB) have a BB press and drifts for Dub that I can use for 10min?