Ask the experts

[toast2266]

I don’t think SRAM offers an 11sp cassette with a 10T small cog (?).

They do (did?). I'm not seeing it on Sram's site, but they're still get-able.

[Tailwind]

I would just stick with 1x. The cost of going 2x won’t be worth it. Get a 10-42 cassette and a 44 tooth chainring. That’s almost like “two extra shifts” from a gear ratios perspective.

I spin out at around 37-38 mph on a 44x11. If you did 44x10 that gets you to 41-42 mph. Not enough for truly massive alpine descents but honestly pretty darn fast. It’s also a higher gear ratio than a GRX double crank which has a 48x11 gearing. A compact double (50x11) is a little higher than 44x10 but it’s like quarter gear more.

If you’re worried about low end, 44x42 is still about 1-1 which is as low as most 2x systems.

I think my cassette is an 11-42. How much smaller is really available?

I think the answer is a 2x drivetrain which means new left/front brifter and adding a front der etc etc....

[Skistack]

I’d try a 44t chainring first since its the cheapest option, but I’m a cheap bastard.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[jm2e]

https://sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
This is what you’re looking for.
Pro tip: when using the gear ratio calculator to consider two or three different chainring sizes, just put each option in as if you’re doing a 2x or 3x setup. Then it’ll show you side by side differences between each option using the same cassette.

Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Iowagriz]

I was going to add the Sheldon calculator as well. So, as above stated in 3x mode (using single front ring #s). Play around with output in mph at a certain rpm, that will give you an idea of differences in real world #s that are easier to understand.

[Duffman]

The SLX 7100 series lever blade is: Y2S798010 (right) or Y2S798020 (Left)
The XT 8100 series is: Y2RR98010 (R.H.) Y2RR98020 (L.H.)
The XTR 9120 series is: Y1XK98010 (must use the spring from your 7100 lever)
XTR 9100 Race lever will not work.

(Photos are back the way I can easily do them on my desktop)
Attachment 493055

Use a pick to remove the little rubber plug (4) on the lever axle fixing screw (4). That fixing screw hold the lever axle (2) in place, and you can push the lever axle (2) out once the fixing screw is backed out (or removed).
The little return spring is Left or Right specific, so if you buy an opposite side lever blade (or a 9120 lever) you'll need to remove that spring from your old broken lever blade.

Put the lever axle back in between the lever body and half way though the lever blade, slide the spring in front of the lever body, and line up the spring hole with the axle, push the axle home, put the fixing screw back in to secure the lever axle, put the rubber plug back over the fixing screw, go ride.

This YouTube video shows how to do it, not the best video, but you'll get the point. Skipped to 3:30 to avoid the fluff.

Help! I've got the grub screw out but for some reason no matter how hard I push the axle isn't moving. What could I possibly be doing wrong here?

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

[rideit]

I just did this, it was super duper easy. (Thanks, Dee). I used a flat bottom drift punch. Maybe the pin isn’t aligned?

[Duffman]

I just did this, it was super duper easy. (Thanks, Dee). I used a flat bottom drift punch. Maybe the pin isn’t aligned?

Yeah something has to be wrong w the pin. I had a punch and a mallet and wacked on it and it didn't even move a mm

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

[VTskibum]

Bikeyoke revive max (34.9 is a bit different maybe?) cartridge rebuild, any ideas on how to get the cartridge out of the upper tube?!? BikeYoke video shows the lower seal head having a slot for 10mm, but mine is completely round!! So nothing to apply force to unthread it.

At ~1min mark, the video shows a 10mm to remove the "lower seal head" mine is completely round.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YP3oPvRRomQ&t=17s

Edit - Emailed BikeYoke around same time I threw this up, they got back to me pretty quickly and provided good feedback that got me moving forward.

[jm2e]

I was going to say; probably the most responsive customer service in the industry. Bike Yoke FTMFW.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Meconium]

What helmets have similar fit to Smith? Need asap replacement for the kid and trying to narrow down shops to visit. Giro fit, good for me skinny brain but not so good for the round smart brain of child.

[Andeh]

I also have a long skinny brain, and know that POC / Leatt don't fit me well. Maybe try those? Smith, Giro, Fox, TLD all seem to fit my oval head pretty well.

[toast2266]

What helmets have similar fit to Smith? Need asap replacement for the kid and trying to narrow down shops to visit. Giro fit, good for me skinny brain but not so good for the round smart brain of child.

Round head = bell

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

[beaterdit]

^^^Came here to say this.

[Meconium]

Thanks, 55cm is also tricky, max out or crank with a medium.

[Meconium]

Strangely, the fox Speedframe fit excellent. On me and kids rounded head. Done, I might go back and pick one up for myself. Bell was horrible, I think that's for more of a round and pancake flat top head. Skulls are weird.

[XXX-er]

Bell was horrible, I think that's for more of a round and pancake flat top head. Skulls are weird.

Yup flat with corners ^^ on my second bell XL now, before that it was Giro

I wouldn't mind finding something with a chin bar

[nickwm21]

Tailgate pads and modern geo bikes…

Am I the only one with this issue?

Larger 29” rear wheel + longer wheelbase is putting the center of gravity higher / further back - making the bike more prone to flopping over on the tailgate. It’s fine for a 30min drive to the trailhead. But a long drive or a rough road - I need to run a strap to keep the bike stable…

I thought it was my old company truck. Reg cab long bed that I had horse mats in to make it drive not like complete shit (mats raised the bed height, changing the tailgate pad geometry). But… same issue on my new company truck without the mats in..

Anyone have a smart solution? I was thinking about framing a wheel pocket out of 2x4. I can’t bolt anything down to the bed (company truck I don’t own, that actually gets used for truck stuff so solution has to be quickly removable)

Edit: this is on modern F150s (2016,2024). Maybe not an issue on other trucks…


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[toast2266]

Tailgate pads and modern geo bikes…

Am I the only one with this issue?

Larger 29” rear wheel + longer wheelbase is putting the center of gravity higher / further back - making the bike more prone to flopping over on the tailgate. It’s fine for a 30min drive to the trailhead. But a long drive or a rough road - I need to run a strap to keep the bike stable…

I thought it was my old company truck. Reg cab long bed that I had horse mats in to make it drive not like complete shit (mats raised the bed height, changing the tailgate pad geometry). But… same issue on my new company truck without the mats in..

Anyone have a smart solution? I was thinking about framing a wheel pocket out of 2x4. I can’t bolt anything down to the bed (company truck I don’t own, that actually gets used for truck stuff so solution has to be quickly removable)

Edit: this is on modern F150s (2016,2024). Maybe not an issue on other trucks…


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

Yup. I've spent a fair amount of time combating this exact issue.

This thing made out of scrap 6x6 helps a lot. It's not bolted in - just sits in the bed. Tires go in every other slot (fits up to 6 bikes).



I also went fairly overboard and built this rack that has slots for each bike. Keeps everything completely stable even on rough roads without needing any straps. That build was a bit more involved than tossing together some 6x6's though.



Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

[XXX-er]

My old tennant has a 90's chevy and so he put a frame in the stake holes in the ends of the back of the box which effectively raised the back of the bed by a foot and he covers the 2x4 with old carpet

some of the new trucks don't have holes for stakes

I would probabaly run a strap over whatever I carry

[nickwm21]

Yup. I've spent a fair amount of time combating this exact issue.

This thing made out of scrap 6x6 helps a lot. It's not bolted in - just sits in the bed. Tires go in every other slot (fits up to 6 bikes).



I also went fairly overboard and built this rack that has slots for each bike. Keeps everything completely stable even on rough roads without needing any straps. That build was a bit more involved than tossing together some 6x6's though.



Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

Nice - I’ll build a wheel pocket like yours…

Out of curiosity - what is the tailgate side assembly made out of. Looks like some rigid foam?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[toast2266]

Out of curiosity - what is the tailgate side assembly made out of. Looks like some rigid foam?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

The bike cradles are made out of molded expanding foam. The rearward part that covers the actual tailgate is just an old Yakima tailgate pad that I cut up. And then everything attaches to a chunk of aluminum that straps onto the tailgate.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

[nickwm21]

Wow - A lot of effort for sure


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Dromond]

Will any of the subset of people here who seem to be obsessed with Manitou forks please explain why? I haven’t known anyone with one for 20 years.

[chicken feathers]

I’ve got a Fox X2 on my bike. Coming up on its first service interval and the shock seems noisier than I remember.
Aside from taking it to my lbs, how do I tell if this is the aeration issue?