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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #13926
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Halfway Between the Gutter and the Stars
    Posts
    3,848
    I have a shimano shifter, chain and derailleur but a sram freehub/cassette. It's always shifted shitty but I just recently noticed the fuck up. There is probably someone out there with my wheel wondering why thier bike shifts shitty.
    You are what you eat.
    ---------------------------------------------------
    There's no such thing as bad snow, just shitty skiers.

  2. #13927
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    14,493
    Switching to a Sram chain is gonna be the easiest / cheapest way to get it to shift reasonably well.

    Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

  3. #13928
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    5,024
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    What do you mean by "shimano compatible"?
    A sram cassette will work with a shimano derailleur. A sram cassette won't work so well with a shimano chain.
    Do you already have a shimano cassette and chain? A microspline freehub body is almost certainly going to be cheaper than an XD cassette.
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Switching to a Sram chain is gonna be the easiest / cheapest way to get it to shift reasonably well.
    And a SRAM compatible Chainring, which is difficult if it's a Shimano crank, or even more complicated when dealing with E-Bike cranks.

    If it was me, I'd do it correctly and buy the microspline freehub, buy a Shimano cassette and be done with it.

  4. #13929
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NorCal coast
    Posts
    2,152
    I just pulled off one of my forks to service & upgrade the damper, and noticed the crown race isn't super snug. I can lift it up with my fingernails ~5mm. Am I fine just reinstalling it with a bunch of heavy grease under it, or should I use something like green Loctite (retaining compound)? The idea being to prevent creaks.

  5. #13930
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SLC burbs
    Posts
    4,413
    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    I just pulled off one of my forks to service & upgrade the damper, and noticed the crown race isn't super snug. I can lift it up with my fingernails ~5mm. Am I fine just reinstalling it with a bunch of heavy grease under it, or should I use something like green Loctite (retaining compound)? The idea being to prevent creaks.
    Weird, those things usually take quite a bit of effort to remove once they're in place. Might be stretched out (not sure that's a thing) or cracked, although I imagine you've checked. I install them using a piece of PVC and they never budge. I'd say grease it and pound it in, although it might be worth throwing a new one on if you have any doubts.
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  6. #13931
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Missoula
    Posts
    2,162
    There's such a thing as a split crown race that isn't a press fit. Was kind of annoyed when my new fancy gravel/cx bike came with one and I didn't have a nice cane creek etc with a seal to put on instead.

  7. #13932
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    SLCizzy
    Posts
    3,658
    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    I just pulled off one of my forks to service & upgrade the damper, and noticed the crown race isn't super snug. I can lift it up with my fingernails ~5mm. Am I fine just reinstalling it with a bunch of heavy grease under it, or should I use something like green Loctite (retaining compound)? The idea being to prevent creaks.
    What brand is it? Might be worth just picking up a new one. Cane creek are affordable and ubiquitous at shops.
    Otherwise, if you can install/remove a race with your fingers, a bit of green loctite wouldn’t hurt to keep creaks away.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  8. #13933
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    36,289
    There is always the ol’ beer can shim!
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  9. #13934
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Conformist, Complacent State
    Posts
    932
    Spray with something that bubbles

  10. #13935
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    36,289
    Yeah, that should certainly fix a slightly loose crown race.
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  11. #13936
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    The better LA
    Posts
    2,745
    Good news - Hopefully, you'll find it's a split ring style that's just slightly low in tension. Replace with fore-mentioned solid Cane Creek (make sure you get the correct bearing taper; 45* or 37*).
    Bad news - If not, it might be the fork. The crown race is substantially harder steel than the steerer. If there's excessive wear, it's more likely the steerer.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  12. #13937
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    2,547
    Quote Originally Posted by Powder Ho View Post
    I had it serviced this past winter, but I'll try that. Thanks.
    Gorilla tape or Aquaseal not an option.
    If it was at a shop I wonder what they did. A lot of shops just open the little clutch adjustment window and spray triflow or put some shadow grease in there instead of actually servicing it haha

  13. #13938
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NorCal coast
    Posts
    2,152
    It's a Chris King, which is why I'm hesitant to "just replace it" since they want like $40 for them. I'll give it some of the green loctite and if I notice noises, I'll suck it up and buy a new one. I've never seen that happen before with the CKs or even the cheap CC & FSA ones.

  14. #13939
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    14,493
    ^^^ I'd be inclined to swing by a shop and test fit a different race (any race - doesn't need to fit the CK). If a 2nd race is loose, it's the fork. If the 2nd race isn't loose, it's the CK race that's the problem and I'd look to CK for a warranty replacement (and probably squirt some retaining compound in there for the time being).

    Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

  15. #13940
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    32,626
    Quote Originally Posted by bamboocoreONLY View Post
    If it was at a shop I wonder what they did. A lot of shops just open the little clutch adjustment window and spray triflow or put some shadow grease in there instead of actually servicing it haha
    Thats ^^ what I would do if i didnt have the parts

    those 1 way clutches are referred to as " spragg clutches" I serviced literaly hundreds in the ribbon and paper handling areas of printers

    It was always best to replace them so I would walk into a BIG customer literaly with pockets of replacement parts, clean the shaft with alcohol cuz usually there was red rust on the shaft and replace the clutch .

    if i didnt have parts with me I would clean the shaft with alcohol and flush the clutch with #23 grease to get me out of there but i knew i would be back
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  16. #13941
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Treading Water
    Posts
    7,021
    Quote Originally Posted by Beaver View Post
    I have a shimano shifter, chain and derailleur but a sram freehub/cassette. It's always shifted shitty but I just recently noticed the fuck up. There is probably someone out there with my wheel wondering why thier bike shifts shitty.
    That XD cassette and freehub are probably more expensive than all the other parts. I’d say flip the Shimano stuff and just get a SRAM shifter/RD on there.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    However many are in a shit ton.

  17. #13942
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Sandy
    Posts
    5,334
    I have a 2022 Fox 34 Factory with a Fit4 damper and I hate it. I've messed with spacers, pressure, etc. and it still feels harsh to me. Do I get a new fork, get a Fractive tuning kit. or buy a new Grip damper for it?

    I'm not a super picky fork person usually, but I legitimately hate this fork. I have a MRP Ribbon, DVO, Rock Shock, and a Manitou I like, this is the first newer Fox fork I've tried in awhile and I'm not impressed....
    When life gives you haters, make haterade.

  18. #13943
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    SW, CO
    Posts
    1,822
    Quote Originally Posted by sfotex View Post
    I have a 2022 Fox 34 Factory with a Fit4 damper and I hate it. I've messed with spacers, pressure, etc. and it still feels harsh to me. Do I get a new fork, get a Fractive tuning kit. or buy a new Grip damper for it?

    I'm not a super picky fork person usually, but I legitimately hate this fork. I have a MRP Ribbon, DVO, Rock Shock, and a Manitou I like, this is the first newer Fox fork I've tried in awhile and I'm not impressed....
    I feel like someone in here mentioned that Fox seems to have a ton of variability in their tolerances out of the factory which sometimes leads to them feeling shitty. Might be worth burnishing them if someone locally has the tool or you want to go down that rabbit hole?

    EDIT: Looks like this was discussed last year here.

  19. #13944
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    5,455
    Quote Originally Posted by ASmileyFace View Post
    I feel like someone in here mentioned that Fox seems to have a ton of variability in their tolerances out of the factory which sometimes leads to them feeling shitty. Might be worth burnishing them if someone locally has the tool or you want to go down that rabbit hole?

    EDIT: Looks like this was discussed last year here.
    I mentioned it. My 2020 36 Elite felt like shit due to tight bushings until I sent it back to Fox warranty to fix. It’s been really good since then. No damper can overcome how bad tight bushings feels.

    https://www.mtbr.com/threads/tight-b...hness.1129699/

  20. #13945
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    17,109
    I'm running 1x11 sram on my gravel bike. It has a 40T chainring. I run out of high gear constantly. I ride like 50/50 paved and gravel. Even just zipping along on flat gravel I am in the highest gear pretty much all the time. I probably use the smallest 4 or 5 cogs in the cassette. Idk if I have ever used the granny. Would putting a 44T chainring on make that much of a difference?

  21. #13946
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Sandy
    Posts
    5,334
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    I'm running 1x11 sram on my gravel bike. It has a 40T chainring. I run out of high gear constantly. I ride like 50/50 paved and gravel. Even just zipping along on flat gravel I am in the highest gear pretty much all the time. I probably use the smallest 4 or 5 cogs in the cassette. Idk if I have ever used the granny. Would putting a 44T chainring on make that much of a difference?
    Getting a smaller cog, if possible, on the cassette is going to make the biggest difference.
    When life gives you haters, make haterade.

  22. #13947
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    17,109
    I think my cassette is an 11-42. How much smaller is really available?

    I think the answer is a 2x drivetrain which means new left/front brifter and adding a front der etc etc....

  23. #13948
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    6,531
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    I think my cassette is an 11-42. How much smaller is really available?

    I think the answer is a 2x drivetrain which means new left/front brifter and adding a front der etc etc....
    I don’t think SRAM offers an 11sp cassette with a 10T small cog (?).

    Going from 40T to 44T chainring let’s you go 10% faster, about the equivalent of one more gear.

  24. #13949
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Sandy
    Posts
    5,334
    e13 has a 9 tooth 11speed cassette - https://www.ethirteen.com/collection...29694741348455
    I think there's one other out there too. Not cheap, but cheaper then a 2x drivetrain...
    When life gives you haters, make haterade.

  25. #13950
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    1,221
    Garbaruk makes a 10-46 11 speed XD cassette.

    Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

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