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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #13926
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beaver View Post
    I have a shimano shifter, chain and derailleur but a sram freehub/cassette. It's always shifted shitty but I just recently noticed the fuck up. There is probably someone out there with my wheel wondering why thier bike shifts shitty.
    That XD cassette and freehub are probably more expensive than all the other parts. I’d say flip the Shimano stuff and just get a SRAM shifter/RD on there.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    However many are in a shit ton.

  2. #13927
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Sandy
    Posts
    5,344
    I have a 2022 Fox 34 Factory with a Fit4 damper and I hate it. I've messed with spacers, pressure, etc. and it still feels harsh to me. Do I get a new fork, get a Fractive tuning kit. or buy a new Grip damper for it?

    I'm not a super picky fork person usually, but I legitimately hate this fork. I have a MRP Ribbon, DVO, Rock Shock, and a Manitou I like, this is the first newer Fox fork I've tried in awhile and I'm not impressed....
    When life gives you haters, make haterade.

  3. #13928
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    SW, CO
    Posts
    1,862
    Quote Originally Posted by sfotex View Post
    I have a 2022 Fox 34 Factory with a Fit4 damper and I hate it. I've messed with spacers, pressure, etc. and it still feels harsh to me. Do I get a new fork, get a Fractive tuning kit. or buy a new Grip damper for it?

    I'm not a super picky fork person usually, but I legitimately hate this fork. I have a MRP Ribbon, DVO, Rock Shock, and a Manitou I like, this is the first newer Fox fork I've tried in awhile and I'm not impressed....
    I feel like someone in here mentioned that Fox seems to have a ton of variability in their tolerances out of the factory which sometimes leads to them feeling shitty. Might be worth burnishing them if someone locally has the tool or you want to go down that rabbit hole?

    EDIT: Looks like this was discussed last year here.

  4. #13929
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Seattle
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    5,465
    Quote Originally Posted by ASmileyFace View Post
    I feel like someone in here mentioned that Fox seems to have a ton of variability in their tolerances out of the factory which sometimes leads to them feeling shitty. Might be worth burnishing them if someone locally has the tool or you want to go down that rabbit hole?

    EDIT: Looks like this was discussed last year here.
    I mentioned it. My 2020 36 Elite felt like shit due to tight bushings until I sent it back to Fox warranty to fix. It’s been really good since then. No damper can overcome how bad tight bushings feels.

    https://www.mtbr.com/threads/tight-b...hness.1129699/

  5. #13930
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    17,149
    I'm running 1x11 sram on my gravel bike. It has a 40T chainring. I run out of high gear constantly. I ride like 50/50 paved and gravel. Even just zipping along on flat gravel I am in the highest gear pretty much all the time. I probably use the smallest 4 or 5 cogs in the cassette. Idk if I have ever used the granny. Would putting a 44T chainring on make that much of a difference?

  6. #13931
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    Oct 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    I'm running 1x11 sram on my gravel bike. It has a 40T chainring. I run out of high gear constantly. I ride like 50/50 paved and gravel. Even just zipping along on flat gravel I am in the highest gear pretty much all the time. I probably use the smallest 4 or 5 cogs in the cassette. Idk if I have ever used the granny. Would putting a 44T chainring on make that much of a difference?
    Getting a smaller cog, if possible, on the cassette is going to make the biggest difference.
    When life gives you haters, make haterade.

  7. #13932
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    17,149
    I think my cassette is an 11-42. How much smaller is really available?

    I think the answer is a 2x drivetrain which means new left/front brifter and adding a front der etc etc....

  8. #13933
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    6,767
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    I think my cassette is an 11-42. How much smaller is really available?

    I think the answer is a 2x drivetrain which means new left/front brifter and adding a front der etc etc....
    I don’t think SRAM offers an 11sp cassette with a 10T small cog (?).

    Going from 40T to 44T chainring let’s you go 10% faster, about the equivalent of one more gear.

  9. #13934
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Sandy
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    e13 has a 9 tooth 11speed cassette - https://www.ethirteen.com/collection...29694741348455
    I think there's one other out there too. Not cheap, but cheaper then a 2x drivetrain...
    When life gives you haters, make haterade.

  10. #13935
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    1,239
    Garbaruk makes a 10-46 11 speed XD cassette.

    Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

  11. #13936
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
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    14,556
    Quote Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong View Post
    I don’t think SRAM offers an 11sp cassette with a 10T small cog (?).
    They do (did?). I'm not seeing it on Sram's site, but they're still get-able.

  12. #13937
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Evergreen Co
    Posts
    1,049
    I would just stick with 1x. The cost of going 2x won’t be worth it. Get a 10-42 cassette and a 44 tooth chainring. That’s almost like “two extra shifts” from a gear ratios perspective.

    I spin out at around 37-38 mph on a 44x11. If you did 44x10 that gets you to 41-42 mph. Not enough for truly massive alpine descents but honestly pretty darn fast. It’s also a higher gear ratio than a GRX double crank which has a 48x11 gearing. A compact double (50x11) is a little higher than 44x10 but it’s like quarter gear more.

    If you’re worried about low end, 44x42 is still about 1-1 which is as low as most 2x systems.

    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    I think my cassette is an 11-42. How much smaller is really available?

    I think the answer is a 2x drivetrain which means new left/front brifter and adding a front der etc etc....

  13. #13938
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    2,596
    I’d try a 44t chainring first since its the cheapest option, but I’m a cheap bastard.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  14. #13939
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Treading Water
    Posts
    7,049

    Ask the experts

    https://sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
    This is what you’re looking for.
    Pro tip: when using the gear ratio calculator to consider two or three different chainring sizes, just put each option in as if you’re doing a 2x or 3x setup. Then it’ll show you side by side differences between each option using the same cassette.

    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    However many are in a shit ton.

  15. #13940
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    1,797
    I was going to add the Sheldon calculator as well. So, as above stated in 3x mode (using single front ring #s). Play around with output in mph at a certain rpm, that will give you an idea of differences in real world #s that are easier to understand.

  16. #13941
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Philly, PA
    Posts
    1,839
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    The SLX 7100 series lever blade is: Y2S798010 (right) or Y2S798020 (Left)
    The XT 8100 series is: Y2RR98010 (R.H.) Y2RR98020 (L.H.)
    The XTR 9120 series is: Y1XK98010 (must use the spring from your 7100 lever)
    XTR 9100 Race lever will not work.

    (Photos are back the way I can easily do them on my desktop)
    Attachment 493055

    Use a pick to remove the little rubber plug (4) on the lever axle fixing screw (4). That fixing screw hold the lever axle (2) in place, and you can push the lever axle (2) out once the fixing screw is backed out (or removed).
    The little return spring is Left or Right specific, so if you buy an opposite side lever blade (or a 9120 lever) you'll need to remove that spring from your old broken lever blade.

    Put the lever axle back in between the lever body and half way though the lever blade, slide the spring in front of the lever body, and line up the spring hole with the axle, push the axle home, put the fixing screw back in to secure the lever axle, put the rubber plug back over the fixing screw, go ride.

    This YouTube video shows how to do it, not the best video, but you'll get the point. Skipped to 3:30 to avoid the fluff.
    Help! I've got the grub screw out but for some reason no matter how hard I push the axle isn't moving. What could I possibly be doing wrong here?

    Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

  17. #13942
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
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    36,363
    I just did this, it was super duper easy. (Thanks, Dee). I used a flat bottom drift punch. Maybe the pin isn’t aligned?
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  18. #13943
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Philly, PA
    Posts
    1,839
    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    I just did this, it was super duper easy. (Thanks, Dee). I used a flat bottom drift punch. Maybe the pin isn’t aligned?
    Yeah something has to be wrong w the pin. I had a punch and a mallet and wacked on it and it didn't even move a mm

    Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

  19. #13944
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    2,754
    Bikeyoke revive max (34.9 is a bit different maybe?) cartridge rebuild, any ideas on how to get the cartridge out of the upper tube?!? BikeYoke video shows the lower seal head having a slot for 10mm, but mine is completely round!! So nothing to apply force to unthread it.

    At ~1min mark, the video shows a 10mm to remove the "lower seal head" mine is completely round.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YP3oPvRRomQ&t=17s

    Edit - Emailed BikeYoke around same time I threw this up, they got back to me pretty quickly and provided good feedback that got me moving forward.
    Last edited by VTskibum; 08-06-2024 at 07:22 AM.

  20. #13945
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Treading Water
    Posts
    7,049

    Ask the experts

    I was going to say; probably the most responsive customer service in the industry. Bike Yoke FTMFW.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    However many are in a shit ton.

  21. #13946
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Conformist, Complacent State
    Posts
    971
    What helmets have similar fit to Smith? Need asap replacement for the kid and trying to narrow down shops to visit. Giro fit, good for me skinny brain but not so good for the round smart brain of child.

  22. #13947
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NorCal coast
    Posts
    2,161
    I also have a long skinny brain, and know that POC / Leatt don't fit me well. Maybe try those? Smith, Giro, Fox, TLD all seem to fit my oval head pretty well.

  23. #13948
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    14,556
    Quote Originally Posted by Meconium View Post
    What helmets have similar fit to Smith? Need asap replacement for the kid and trying to narrow down shops to visit. Giro fit, good for me skinny brain but not so good for the round smart brain of child.
    Round head = bell

    Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

  24. #13949
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Land of Brine Shrimp and Magic Underwear
    Posts
    6,924
    ^^^Came here to say this.
    There's nothing better than sliding down snow, flying through the air

  25. #13950
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Conformist, Complacent State
    Posts
    971
    Thanks, 55cm is also tricky, max out or crank with a medium.

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