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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #13876
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
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    In a van... down by the river
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huskier View Post
    <snip> Failing that, is there any way to troubleshoot a valve core short of just sticking a new one in?
    Soapy water

  2. #13877
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    North Van
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    3,792
    Quote Originally Posted by Huskier View Post
    Eating crow about my Kryptotal and on a roll with dumb questions: I cannot keep air in my front tire. It's losing at least 10lbs/24hrs. Not a fast enough leak to lose air while riding but still kind of annoying. I've tried adding sealant twice to no avail. Going to try breaking and reseating the bead, are there any special tricks to get it to seat properly? I typically use an air compressor to do the job. It's like I got 99% of the way there... But just short. Failing that, is there any way to troubleshoot a valve core short of just sticking a new one in?

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
    I bet it’s damaged tape. If air is coming out the spoke holes or around the valve stem, that’s probably the culprit.

  3. #13878
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NorCal coast
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    2,152
    Quote Originally Posted by D(C) View Post
    I bet it’s damaged tape. If air is coming out the spoke holes or around the valve stem, that’s probably the culprit.
    Seconding this.

  4. #13879
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NorCal coast
    Posts
    2,152
    When going over my bike in advance of this coming weekend's road trip, I discovered the lower brake mount on the fork is more than halfway stripped out. For now, I've put in the longest bolt that will fit ~30mm, had a 25mm in there before, with a shitload of loctite. I'd conservatively guess there's only about 5mm of working threads. So, a couple questions:

    1) Zeb 29 lowers are out of stock everywhere. Is SRAM/RS likely to have a secret stash of them that my local shop might able to access through service rather than b2b?

    2) is there any way to repair this that will preserve the ability to remove the brake caliper? I.E. not fill the hole full of JB Weld

    3) how crazy would I be to ride it in the current state? Part of me thinks that's fucking stupid, the other part thinks if I hadn't gone over the bike yesterday, I would have kept riding it as it was unawares.

    For the record, I don't think that I did the damage, but I can't prove my theory, and bringing it up to the shop in question will result in either hurt feelings or blanket denials. I had them build up a bike with this fork, and when I got it back, I found multiple glaringly bad things wrong, including loose bolts and the front brake was mounted with with a +20mm adapter, for a 200mm rotor and a 200mm native post mount fork. The brakes were takeoff Code Rs, and I know the rear of those calipers makes it hard to screw the bolt in straight. When I later swapped the fork out, I remember noticing that it was really difficult to get the lower bolt out (must have been cross threaded).

  5. #13880
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
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    1,221
    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    When going over my bike in advance of this coming weekend's road trip, I discovered the lower brake mount on the fork is more than halfway stripped out. For now, I've put in the longest bolt that will fit ~30mm, had a 25mm in there before, with a shitload of loctite. I'd conservatively guess there's only about 5mm of working threads. So, a couple questions:

    1) Zeb 29 lowers are out of stock everywhere. Is SRAM/RS likely to have a secret stash of them that my local shop might able to access through service rather than b2b?

    2) is there any way to repair this that will preserve the ability to remove the brake caliper? I.E. not fill the hole full of JB Weld

    3) how crazy would I be to ride it in the current state? Part of me thinks that's fucking stupid, the other part thinks if I hadn't gone over the bike yesterday, I would have kept riding it as it was unawares.

    For the record, I don't think that I did the damage, but I can't prove my theory, and bringing it up to the shop in question will result in either hurt feelings or blanket denials. I had them build up a bike with this fork, and when I got it back, I found multiple glaringly bad things wrong, including loose bolts and the front brake was mounted with with a +20mm adapter, for a 200mm rotor and a 200mm native post mount fork. The brakes were takeoff Code Rs, and I know the rear of those calipers makes it hard to screw the bolt in straight. When I later swapped the fork out, I remember noticing that it was really difficult to get the lower bolt out (must have been cross threaded).
    I would try to clear the threads with the tap. Then helicoil if it's damaged beyond re-tapping. BTW, I had same issue with one of the earlier ZEB brake mount that I bought used.

    Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

  6. #13881
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    The better LA
    Posts
    2,745
    Quote Originally Posted by D(C) View Post
    I bet it’s damaged tape. If air is coming out the spoke holes or around the valve stem, that’s probably the culprit.
    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    Seconding this.
    X3
    Pretty much every TL failure I've had has been tape related.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  7. #13882
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    The better LA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robik View Post
    I would try to clear the threads with the tap. Then helicoil if it's damaged beyond re-tapping. BTW, I had same issue with one of the earlier ZEB brake mount that I bought used.

    Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk
    Helicoil is a great permanent fix. Threads will now be steel instead of alum.
    Just be careful on the drilling out process. Drilling aluminum slightly oversize tends to grab the bit, causing it to drill deeper or off angle.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  8. #13883
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NorCal coast
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    2,152
    Quote Originally Posted by Roxtar View Post
    Helicoil is a great permanent fix. Threads will now be steel instead of alum.
    Just be careful on the drilling out process. Drilling aluminum slightly oversize tends to grab the bit, causing it to drill deeper or off angle.
    Thanks guys, I'll look into it.

  9. #13884
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
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    36,293
    Just had a ‘hail Mary’ repair thought.
    If the threads are beyond pooched, theoretically, one could epoxy/JB weld a longer threaded rod into the fork mount, and secure it in reverse, with a nut at the end of it instead of a bolt head.
    Just a wild thought.
    Something I would try for myself as a last-ditch effort.
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  10. #13885
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    6,572
    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Just had a ‘hail Mary’ repair thought.
    If the threads are beyond pooched, theoretically, one could epoxy/JB weld a longer threaded rod into the fork mount, and secure it in reverse, with a nut at the end of it instead of a bolt head.
    Just a wild thought.
    Something I would try for myself as a last-ditch effort.
    JB Weld can be drilled and tapped, so you could fill the current hole completely and start fresh if you were inclined to go the JB Weld route.

  11. #13886
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    The better LA
    Posts
    2,745
    Quote Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong View Post
    JB Weld can be drilled and tapped, so you could fill the current hole completely and start fresh if you were inclined to go the JB Weld route.
    Way, way harder to get holes drilled and tapped correctly than helicoil.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  12. #13887
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    14,498
    X2 on helicoil. It's really the only viable repair option for that situation.

    Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

  13. #13888
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    6,572
    Quote Originally Posted by Roxtar View Post
    Way, way harder to get holes drilled and tapped correctly than helicoil.
    For sure. I’d be going heicoil.

    Just saying that if you ended up going the JB Weld route for whatever reason, it can be drilled and tapped, which gets you back to where you started.

  14. #13889
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    32,642
    it IS a brake part and brakes are kind of important
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  15. #13890
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    14,498
    JB weld repairs are for areas that won't kill you if they fail. Maaaaybe a rear brake mount. Definitely not a front brake mount.

    Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

  16. #13891
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NorCal coast
    Posts
    2,152
    Helicoil installed, piece of cake. Hardest part is keeping the 1/4" drill bit from advancing too fast. Thanks for the help guys.

  17. #13892
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Cuntecticut
    Posts
    1,824
    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    When going over my bike in advance of this coming weekend's road trip, I discovered the lower brake mount on the fork is more than halfway stripped out. For now, I've put in the longest bolt that will fit ~30mm, had a 25mm in there before, with a shitload of loctite. I'd conservatively guess there's only about 5mm of working threads. So, a couple questions:

    1) Zeb 29 lowers are out of stock everywhere. Is SRAM/RS likely to have a secret stash of them that my local shop might able to access through service rather than b2b?

    2) is there any way to repair this that will preserve the ability to remove the brake caliper? I.E. not fill the hole full of JB Weld

    3) how crazy would I be to ride it in the current state? Part of me thinks that's fucking stupid, the other part thinks if I hadn't gone over the bike yesterday, I would have kept riding it as it was unawares.

    For the record, I don't think that I did the damage, but I can't prove my theory, and bringing it up to the shop in question will result in either hurt feelings or blanket denials. I had them build up a bike with this fork, and when I got it back, I found multiple glaringly bad things wrong, including loose bolts and the front brake was mounted with with a +20mm adapter, for a 200mm rotor and a 200mm native post mount fork. The brakes were takeoff Code Rs, and I know the rear of those calipers makes it hard to screw the bolt in straight. When I later swapped the fork out, I remember noticing that it was really difficult to get the lower bolt out (must have been cross threaded).
    As others have said, Helicoil it. Super easy, durable, and waaaaaaay less money than new lowers!

    Did that to a Lyrik lower years ago. Rode it several more years before selling it on, and the buyer is still using it without issues.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  18. #13893
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    The better LA
    Posts
    2,745
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    it IS a brake part and brakes are kind of important
    Meh, brakes just slow you down.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  19. #13894
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    The greatest N. New Mexico resort in Colorado
    Posts
    2,271
    So I had to put my bike inside the subie as I made a few stops in SLCizzle recently, and the excessive heat appears to have pushed mineral oil past the piston on my front brake (shimano M8000). Leaked all over the back of the vehicle. Pads are still at ~80%, lever feels solid but it needed a bleed before this happened. There doesn't appear to be any additional leakage while pulling the levers.

    These things are old (2016) and have a ton of miles, is it time to retire them? Is a bleed likely to fix this issue? I know shimanos don't have the tightest seals. Any great deals on brakes out there?

  20. #13895
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    36,293
    Glad you got it figured out, and didn’t try something like this:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  21. #13896
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    36,293
    Posting here because this thread seems to get the most consistent traffic. Last year, I came up with a safety idea. It turns out that a Mylar emergency ‘blanket’ fits perfectly in the underside of tapered steer tubes. Pretty much jams in there tightly enough that it won’t come out.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	496864I made a little round gorilla tape dust cover, buts not really necessary.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Could save a life!
    (Also can be used as a reflective device for S&R visibility)
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  22. #13897
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Philly, PA
    Posts
    1,831
    Any insight into whether these NOS OEM Manitou forks are legit or not? Want to get a lightweight 26" Markhour or something similar for the groms 24" bike.

    https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2852883/

  23. #13898
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Greg_o
    Posts
    2,882
    Front wheel on my Giant Contend AR4 has some side to side play, almost 2mm's worth either way. I have somehow never had to do any type of hub maintenance - would a preload adjustment typically address this or should I do a full tear down to inspect bearings?

    Hub has about 2,500 miles on it.

    Given it's a lowly S-R2 I'm guessing the latter and probably replacing the bearings but have zero knowledge and am curious while I wait for the spanner to arrive.

  24. #13899
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Sandy
    Posts
    5,334
    Quote Originally Posted by ZomblibulaX View Post
    So I had to put my bike inside the subie as I made a few stops in SLCizzle recently, and the excessive heat appears to have pushed mineral oil past the piston on my front brake (shimano M8000). Leaked all over the back of the vehicle. Pads are still at ~80%, lever feels solid but it needed a bleed before this happened. There doesn't appear to be any additional leakage while pulling the levers.

    These things are old (2016) and have a ton of miles, is it time to retire them? Is a bleed likely to fix this issue? I know shimanos don't have the tightest seals. Any great deals on brakes out there?
    There's a bladder in the lever that can get a pinhole in it and lets the brakes sort of works. If you bleed them you will find out really quick. You can get a (overpriced) spare off Amazon for $15 if this is the case. Had a small leak appear in mine a few weeks ago.
    Otherwise, if you like Shimano you can upgrade to the 4 piston SLX or XTs that are floating around for not too much.

    These Codes are the best deal I've seen, I got a pair for my Revel Rail:
    https://bikecloset.com/product/sram-...t-mount-black/
    When life gives you haters, make haterade.

  25. #13900
    Join Date
    Mar 2022
    Posts
    1,187
    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Glad you got it figured out, and didn’t try something like this:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I mean, that's dumb AF and I would never do it...

    ...but the force vectors on a brake caliper mount are mostly a pushing force between the faces with a bit of shear. There's not really much pullout force acting on the threads.

    So I could see that working OK in an emergency...and that's probably exactly the hole I would choose if it were a case of broken/lost bolt where you could swap bolts around until you are only missing the back bolt on the rear.

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