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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #13801
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    17,110
    Yeah I'm really not very sweaty. I'll try the polar and see how it goes.

    Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

  2. #13802
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NorCal coast
    Posts
    2,152
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Are there any chest HR straps that actually work? I've had two garmins and a wahoo and they all shit the bed fairly quickly.
    I use a Polar arm band one (goes on bicep) because the chest strap ones drive me nuts. No issues with it, been using it a couple years now.

  3. #13803
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Conformist, Complacent State
    Posts
    934
    What other parts of the body are accurate for HR?

  4. #13804
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    18,699
    For sports, none.

  5. #13805
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Queen City
    Posts
    841
    After 1800 miles my rear rim is officially fucked. Hubs are DT 370s and seem fine. Shop wants me to spend around $300 to build a wheel around my existing hub. $150 for rim, $100 for labor, 50 for stans spokes and valves.

    I really don't want to do that. Then I wont even have matching wheels. I also really done want to spend $1k for a nice wheelset. Anyone got any suggestions? 29in 148 boost with xd driver

  6. #13806
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    5,277
    You do actually have to wash the heart rate strap from time to time. I had a wahoo that lasted not very long, and a Garmin dual that has lasted much longer. Chest strap is far superior to optical wrist.
    sigless.

  7. #13807
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    36,290
    Quote Originally Posted by toastybroski View Post
    After 1800 miles my rear rim is officially fucked. Hubs are DT 370s and seem fine. Shop wants me to spend around $300 to build a wheel around my existing hub. $150 for rim, $100 for labor, 50 for stans spokes and valves.

    I really don't want to do that. Then I wont even have matching wheels. I also really done want to spend $1k for a nice wheelset. Anyone got any suggestions? 29in 148 boost with xd driver
    Light Bicycle has a great carbon set for that $$$. With 350’s.
    I think S.C. Reserve has an alloy Wheelset for about that.
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  8. #13808
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Evergreen Co
    Posts
    1,048
    Find some take off XM1700’s for $300-$400 and call it a day. Just get a new set and sell the parts you’re left with from the old wheels. Get $50 for the hub for example.

    It will likely be a nice upgrade.

    Quote Originally Posted by toastybroski View Post
    After 1800 miles my rear rim is officially fucked. Hubs are DT 370s and seem fine. Shop wants me to spend around $300 to build a wheel around my existing hub. $150 for rim, $100 for labor, 50 for stans spokes and valves.

    I really don't want to do that. Then I wont even have matching wheels. I also really done want to spend $1k for a nice wheelset. Anyone got any suggestions? 29in 148 boost with xd driver

  9. #13809
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    484
    Quote Originally Posted by grskier View Post
    This is a great synopsis.

    Here is one from a google search
    Modulus of Elasticity
    What is Modulus of Elasticity?
    Modulus of Elasticity, also known as Elastic Modulus or simply Modulus, is the measurement of a material's elasticity. Elastic modulus quantifies a material's resistance to non-permanent, or elastic, deformation. When under stress, materials will first exhibit elastic properties: the stress causes them to deform, but the material will return to its previous state after the stress is removed. After passing through the elastic region and through their yield point, materials enter a plastic region, where they exhibit permanent deformation even after the tensile stress is removed.

    Granite:
    The elastic modulus varied from 11.1 GPa to 63.8 GPa.

    Wood: Spruce pine: 6.89 GPa,

    I'm guessing granite, like those boulders to be on the very high end of the range above. The bridge/wood lower as it'll bounce a bit before you exercise that trait of the material.
    My engineering autism is twitching, so I've gotta clarify. Nobody has said anything that's wrong per se, but I want to expound on the concept.

    Modulus, in the engineering context, is a general term of the relationship between stress (force applied) and strain (how much the material deforms). The different types of moduli (Young's, shear, bulk, elastic, etc.) are just that stress vs. strain measurement in different directions/axes. Might be pulling outward from opposite ends in tension, might be pushing inward from opposite ends in compression, etc.

    You can definitely simplify it to "stiffness" or "brittleness" in most cases, but it is worth paying attention to what modulus someone is referencing. You're not likely to give a shit about Young's modulus when it comes to carbon bars on your bike, but the shear modulus is very likely to tell you something about their vibration dampening capabilities.

  10. #13810
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Carbondale
    Posts
    12,645
    Quote Originally Posted by unitofstuff View Post
    My engineering autism is twitching, so I've gotta clarify. Nobody has said anything that's wrong per se, but I want to expound on the concept.

    Modulus, in the engineering context, is a general term of the relationship between stress (force applied) and strain (how much the material deforms). The different types of moduli (Young's, shear, bulk, elastic, etc.) are just that stress vs. strain measurement in different directions/axes. Might be pulling outward from opposite ends in tension, might be pushing inward from opposite ends in compression, etc.

    You can definitely simplify it to "stiffness" or "brittleness" in most cases, but it is worth paying attention to what modulus someone is referencing. You're not likely to give a shit about Young's modulus when it comes to carbon bars on your bike, but the shear modulus is very likely to tell you something about their vibration dampening capabilities.
    was trying to go for the owie when hitting your head on rock.
    www.dpsskis.com
    www.point6.com
    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  11. #13811
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    559
    How can you tell if someone's an engineer?

  12. #13812
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Eugenio Oregón
    Posts
    8,666
    This started with me saying granite had *practically* infinite modulus and not expounding. I did not specify compressive modulus or really clarify what I meant - the key word was “practically.”

    The main point was, we all can assume that if you fall onto a giant granite slab, it’s not really compressing or deforming, meaning it’s not reducing deceleration forces or absorbing any meaningful amount of the kinetic energy … Your body is taking nearly all of the impact energy if you aren’t well protected. Some of that energy is translated into rolling/ragdolling, sliding, friction etc … some of it goes to bones bending and breaking, flesh compressing, your brain momentarily flattening as it slams into the inside of your skull. At least in a falling slide a lot of the energy is preserved in kinetic form and not totally put into your body. But Yoann’s slide really only let his most of his forward and some of his downward momentum carry on while basically instantly stopping his angular momentum and putting that into his body.

    If you are going to OTB without serious body armor, loam, ferns, moss, and forest duff is a better choice …
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  13. #13813
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Queen City
    Posts
    841
    Quote Originally Posted by Tailwind View Post
    Find some take off XM1700’s for $300-$400 and call it a day. Just get a new set and sell the parts you’re left with from the old wheels. Get $50 for the hub for example.

    It will likely be a nice upgrade.
    Any good source for these other than fb marketplace?

  14. #13814
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    1,154
    So I’ve upgraded my Santa Cruz Nomad V4 with a Fox 38 up front. What would the experts recommend for a rear shock? I think it requires a 230x60 shock length. Click image for larger version. 

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    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  15. #13815
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    1,154
    And what would the experts suggest I do to this specialized Epic from around 2010. I bought it for $1000 a few years ago. I like it because it’s a 29er that is about 25 lbs and my wife rides it, and it almost fits me too which is nice when I don’t want to ride the 37lb beast.

    The front and rear shock need to be rebuilt. Is there a new shock I could fit to this bike with the old front skewer axle?

    Any suggestions for a dropper post to make it less racer focused to make it more enjoyable for my wife to ride?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  16. #13816
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SLC burbs
    Posts
    4,413
    Quote Originally Posted by Gerome View Post
    So I’ve upgraded my Santa Cruz Nomad V4 with a Fox 38 up front. What would the experts recommend for a rear shock? I think it requires a 230x60 shock length.
    I recently exploded my EXT Storia and swapped it for a Mara Pro on my big bike. I had always had a coil on it, the air shock was a backup I bought when it was on stupid sale. Gotta say, it is damn near perfect of the Gnarvana, and it was incredible on the Occam. Considering the price difference the EXT is really hard to justify, and performance wise it's not substantially inferior (keeping in mind that you can't really compare air and coil as they ride so differently). Comparing it to one of the newer SDUs (albeit on a different bike) it's much supportive in general and I don't have to trade small bump sensitivity for mid-stroke support (my biggest pet peeve). The caveat is that the piggyback is gigantic and doesn't fit on all frames. If you can find one on sale (they are often heavily discounted on the German websites) and it fits your frame I'd definitely put it on the list.
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  17. #13817
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    1,154
    Manitiou Mara Pro looks great for around $315. Now if only Hayesbicycle.com just had the right size for my bike


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  18. #13818
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    shadow of HS butte
    Posts
    6,648
    Quote Originally Posted by Gerome View Post
    Manitiou Mara Pro looks great for around $315. Now if only Hayesbicycle.com just had the right size for my bike


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I have one I’d sell. What size you looking for?

  19. #13819
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    shadow of HS butte
    Posts
    6,648
    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    I recently exploded my EXT Storia and swapped it for a Mara Pro on my big bike. I had always had a coil on it, the air shock was a backup I bought when it was on stupid sale. Gotta say, it is damn near perfect of the Gnarvana, and it was incredible on the Occam. Considering the price difference the EXT is really hard to justify, and performance wise it's not substantially inferior (keeping in mind that you can't really compare air and coil as they ride so differently). Comparing it to one of the newer SDUs (albeit on a different bike) it's much supportive in general and I don't have to trade small bump sensitivity for mid-stroke support (my biggest pet peeve). The caveat is that the piggyback is gigantic and doesn't fit on all frames. If you can find one on sale (they are often heavily discounted on the German websites) and it fits your frame I'd definitely put it on the list.
    Don’t they sell a smaller reservoir? I was going to try that route then my warrantied X2 arrived with a 2024 model and I forgot about it.

  20. #13820
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    SLCizzy
    Posts
    3,658
    Ok, cool. Rock is hard. Do your best not to fall on it. Pads and helmets help. Glad we’ve cleared that up.


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  21. #13821
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Back in Seattle
    Posts
    1,411
    I have a warranty replacement x2 230x65 bnib if you’re interested.
    I went kitsuma coil on the Black Friday sale as my old x2 was failing and like the coil for how I ride my big bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gerome View Post
    So I’ve upgraded my Santa Cruz Nomad V4 with a Fox 38 up front. What would the experts recommend for a rear shock? I think it requires a 230x60 shock length. Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Image1720806413.406640.jpg 
Views:	116 
Size:	2.14 MB 
ID:	496283


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  22. #13822
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    32,631
    Quote Originally Posted by joetron View Post
    Ok, cool. Rock is hard. Do your best not to fall on it. Pads and helmets help. Glad we’ve cleared that up.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    actualy I've heard people on TGR say they don't wear padz when its hot, I asked so you just don't crash when its hot ? but i don't think I got an answer, I don't get it
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  23. #13823
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    12,062
    Just bought an Ibis Mojo3 for my kids next bike. Taking it apart and detailing it currently.

    The seller had new tires put on the bike. Likely spares he had lying around (I'm guessing his e-bike is 29er). Anyway, a 2.6 Ardent Race up front and a 2.8 Rekon + in the rear.

    First, I've never been on either of their tires. Not our usual (kid currently has 26" 2.3 DHF and 2.3 High Roller II) but thinking could be fine for a 105# rider who is not typically on the edge of control. But should I switch these tires around?

    I've read some people like the fat rear tire, but can only see doing that with a hardtail or mullet. OTOH, the Ardent Race might be a grippier tread? Does not seem like it, and with the "race" art I would assume firmer rubber as well.

    So, should I flip these tires or remove them and find something more to our typical liking. I already have a 2.35 Nobby Nic in great shape. Maybe see these two new tires and buy one replacement and pair it with the Schwalbe. Maybe a 2.5WT DHF?


    And one more question. Can I mullet this thing in a few years when I choose to upgrade my 29er fork an put my current one on this bike? I figured that might be a good way to change the geometry a bit, but I have not even begun research to see how that drops the bb and rear.

  24. #13824
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Conformist, Complacent State
    Posts
    934
    I lost the preload bolt on my linkage. When I conservatively preload with something else and tighten up the pinch bolt to the spline, it last about 2hr of riding before loosening up. I'm guessing the preload bolt is imperative?

  25. #13825
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Conformist, Complacent State
    Posts
    934
    The hard part is finding a M12x1.0mm bolt. Anyone know of a common component that uses a M12 with a 1mm thread pitch?

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